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Black & Decker Workmate

Snip's

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Did your Jobmate come with the steel vise "cladding", @Snip's? Or are they someplace on your site, @wolfcj that I've missed? Those things are an interesting variation within the Workmate ecosystem.
Yes, it was one of those "almost didn't happen" moments...

While I was putting the Jobmate in my vehicle, he hollered out to me..... "I have the metal table covers I'll give you"...

I thought to myself... Metal covers... What metal covers? It took him about half an hour to find them...

I'll post up some pictures after I do a little clean up...
 
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wolfcj

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Thanks @wolfcj! I did miss both of those links.
Yeah, that's completely understandable. By my count, the site has exploded to almost sixty HTML pages (not even counting the photos and PDFs), almost entirely about the history and details of the full-size Workmates from 1972 to 1983, with a little coverage extending earlier and later. Who would have thought such a thing would ever exist? And it just started in early 2020 with my idea to create a single-page flowchart for owners who wanted to figure out the Type number of their Workmate 79-001...
 

Snip's

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Did a little cleaning this morning. The PO must have been a painter... Paint splatter everywhere...
Pull the wood tops off and did a quick power wash and then blow dried with my leaf blower...
IMG_1924.JPG

Picture with the metal top covers prior to the power wash...


IMG_1917.JPGIMG_1920.JPG
 

wolfcj

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While at an estate sale today, I saw a Craftsman labeled Grip Mate, without the base. I passed due to the $15 price tag, for one, without the base. A less annoyed me (at wasting a 20 mile round trip) may have gotten a picture
Too bad you didn't get the picture, but it's interesting to know about anyway. I don't suppose you remember what Craftsman called it, do you? I'm sure Black & Decker wouldn't have allowed their trademark "Gripmate" or even the word "Mate" alongside the "Craftsman" name.

I have a 1982/83 Craftsman catalog excerpt at my site that shows the relabeled Workmates Sears was selling by then. The page includes all four of the accessories, but you can't see in the photos how they are marked.
 
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Jmellc

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I won a very similar package from the local lumber yard chain around the same time. Great package of tools. Still use most of them today.
My package included a set of jigsaw blades with a straight edged blade. Was great for cardboard. I wore it out & could never find another one. I should have kept it & tried to sharpen it.
 

Oregon rock crusher

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You can't find it in the owner's manual because the illustrations in the owners manual for the Type E show an earlier UK model, the WM325 Type 1. For the footrest, instead of galvanized metal the Type 1 has a wood panel set into a cast aluminum frame. You'll see that they refer to it as the "Baseboard" with a pointer to the front center indicating the "Baseboard boss". It's correct to call it a boss because it's cast right into the aluminum frame. When they switched to the galvanized footrest, that feature became the tab that we're talking about.
I had some time today for cleanup and to compare my two type E workmates. There are a couple of other differences besides the front footrest tab. The stamped steel panel for the WM with the wider tab has a hot dipped galvanized finish. the one with the smaller tab has some type of phosphate or paint finish. What's interesting is that on your website you show a pic with two type E's together, one with the wider tab, and it appears the panel finish on it is painted and the narrow tab unit has the galvy finish.....just the opposite of my two.

One other difference of note is the plywood used in the jaws. My WM with the galvy finish footrest and wide tab has 11 ply's in the jaws. The WM with the painted footrest and narrow tab has 13 ply's in the jaws. Neither has been replaced as they both have the Type E stamp underneath. Overall thickness is only about .040" diff with the 13 ply being slightly thicker. I see from your website where the WM325 had similar changes at about the same time....just some observations. A couple pics. Ed.
 

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wolfcj

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I had some time today for cleanup and to compare my two type E workmates. There are a couple of other differences besides the front footrest tab. The stamped steel panel for the WM with the wider tab has a hot dipped galvanized finish. the one with the smaller tab has some type of phosphate or paint finish. What's interesting is that on your website you show a pic with two type E's together, one with the wider tab, and it appears the panel finish on it is painted and the narrow tab unit has the galvy finish.....just the opposite of my two.
That's a good observation about the photo on my site—I was hoping the painted footrest wouldn't be very noticeable. It was spray-painted poorly by the previous owner to cover up some rust. Underneath the paint it's the same galvanized factory finish as the other one. Does it seem possible that yours was also a later paint job? Is the bottom of the footrest painted the same?
 

Oregon rock crusher

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I don't think this is a repainted galvanized situation. For one thing it is rusty which could still occurr on a hot dipped panel but the bottom has the same finish and there is no evidence of overspray or the panel being removed. Factory rivets are all there exactly as the other footrest panel. A pic of the bottoms. Ed.
 

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wolfcj

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Are you sure that one of your footrests is painted? It seems very unlikely to me that Black & Decker would have painted it. Looking at your photos, it appears that the one in question has surface rust on the footrest in a way that would not happen to a painted surface. Nothing appears to be peeling, and in the photos there's no visible difference between the rusted and non-rusted areas, other than the rust. That looks to me like the way an unpainted metal surface, including a galvanized one, would rust. However, it's obviously hard for me to draw conclusions with only photographs to go on.

Galvanizing can have different appearances, with some pieces having a smooth uniform look, as explained here:
https://crossroadsgalvanizing.com/2...alvanized-steel-what-are-the-different-types/

If you really want to find out, you could try a little dab of paint remover on an inconspicuous spot on the bottom of the footrest.
 

Oregon rock crusher

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All I'm saying is that the footboard finish is not the same on both of these Workmates. As I speculated above it is probably some type of zinc phosphate finish but not hot dipped like the other. I tried soaking in laquer thinner a small spot on the rest and it had little to no effect. I resorted to an abrasive paste with mechanical agitation to cut it. The base metal is shown in the pic along with the layer of coating. There is also a bit of fading to the right of the spot I polished where I think a bit of the warning sticker adhesive is still visible. The other pic is an attempt to show the finish beneath the frame bracket. Whatever the finish it does extend to the full perimeters of the panel.

I picked this one up local from the son of the original owner. Not 100% sure about the fathers propensity to modify his tools but his son possessed no such desires or aptitudes. Ed.
 

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wolfcj

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Did you look at the WM325 Type 4 at my site? It has a full steel frame (no aluminum) with a smooth plated finish that looks at least somewhat similar to your footrest. It also looks very similar to the finish on the North American 79-001 Type 1. My speculation has been that both of those are cadmium-plated, because that was a common rust-proofing treatment at that time.
 

Oregon rock crusher

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Yes I did see that the foot rest on that model 325 looked the same as what is on my type E. I suppose it could be Cadmium. It's definitley a different coating. Looks like it has 13 ply jaws as well. No tab in the center but maybe B&D had eliminated it by that time. Makes me believe that the wider tab on the galvanized foot rest model with 11 ply jaws is the early version.

Also in looking over timelines between WM 325 models and Type E's I wonder if sales of type E occured after production ended. I read the B&D salesmans letter where he claims 300k units sold in the first year, I assume just in the US. That would mean there could still be an awful lot of type E's still out there to find. Maybe he meant world wide or? Thanks for your thoughts Wolf. Ed.
 

wolfcj

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I wouldn't try to draw any conclusions from the materials used for the jaws. On the 79-001, the material changed seemingly at random, even more than once in a single week. I'm pretty sure Black & Decker used outside suppliers and gave them fairly loose specs they had to meet. It seems quite possible that they did the same in the UK. It also seems possible that they may have outsourced the footrest for the WM325, and the variation you noticed in the plating on yours is because they came from different suppliers.

It seems pretty clear to me that the B&D marketing manager is referring to 300,000 sales in the UK. Notice that he refers to disposable income "over there" and mentions the U.S. equivalent price in dollars. The WM325 was introduced in late 1972, so the first full year would have been 1973, before it was ever sold in North America.

I don't understand what you're asking "if sales of type E occurred after production ended".
 

Oregon rock crusher

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I don't understand what you're asking "if sales of type E occurred after production ended".
It was simply an observation that production always proceeds sales and sales of remaining inventory often occur for a time after production has ended. I think you have satisfied my curiosity as to Type E materials changes during that brief period in 1974 when B&D produced them.
 

wolfcj

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That's what I thought you were referring to, but it appeared to possibly be a lead-in to another topic you were going to raise.

For the Workmate in the 1970's, it seems that "remaining inventory" was effectively non-existent. Demand exceeded supply and B&D had to build new factories to keep up with sales. I have heard from a number of original owners who reported going store to store and being unable to find Workmates for sale at that time, even though they were being advertised. I think there were one or two of those reports in this thread.

At my site I try to be consistent as to whether I'm talking about dates of production or dates of sales, but I probably got careless a few times. The only Workmates that we really know production dates for are the ones made at the Brockville factory, thanks to the codes stamped on those Workmates. There is no comparable production date information for the ones made in England or Ireland. We only have sale date information for them. (There are a few other tidbits I've found, such as that the Kildare, Ireland factory that made the WM625 came online in late 1975.)

My information on sales dates is based on extensive research, primarily using vintage catalogs and newspaper archives. I have yet to find a single article or advertisement from North America showing the 79-001 Type E, so my dates for its sales are deduced from other information. I would estimate they are accurate within about six months. My dates for the Brockville-made Workmates are extremely accurate, down to the day a change was made in some cases. My sales dates for the UK models are probably accurate within six months to a year. Black & Decker never advertised the changeover between different Types within a model in the UK, so we have no idea when the Type changes occurred. In contrast, even though Black & Decker did not advertise the Type changes in the U.S., we can tell when the various Types were made at Brockville because of the production codes.
 

wolfcj

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... " there could still be an awful lot of type E's still out there to find."...
They are definitely out there. I constantly follow Workmate sales all over the U.S., on eBay, Facebook, Craigslist, online auctions, and numerous smaller sites. At any given time there are always some Type E's for sale somewhere in the counry, but their number is minuscule compared to other 79-001s.
 

Oregon rock crusher

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That's what I thought you were referring to, but it appeared to possibly be a lead-in to another topic you were going to raise.

Black & Decker never advertised the changeover between different Types within a model in the UK, so we have no idea when the Type changes occurred. In contrast, even though Black & Decker did not advertise the Type changes in the U.S., we can tell when the various Types were made at Brockville because of the production codes.
I suppose the lead-in to another topic I considered bringing up for discussion is the likely order of Type E and other model workmate "modifications". I speculate that from the time Ron Hickmans original design was put into producton B&D realized they had a hit and that they could make a lot more money per unit if they found a way to reduce costs. Lower cost and or higher sales price is what accountants always push for in the persuit of larger profit margins. You only need the product to perform at an "acceptable" minimum.

If I was to speculate about the order of change I would first consider if it saved time in manufacturing, aka money, even a little. With that logic I presume the wider tab on the footrest proceeded the narrow tab. A few pence. If they could find a less costly way to coat a footboard why wouldn't they. It wasn't long before those costly aluminum bits were replaced with steel stampings. First at the feet and later throughout the frame. Not all changes, such as going from blue to black knobs, seem to have been for profit, but I expect most were. So that's my can of worms for the day...
 

wolfcj

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Yes, Black & Decker definitely made continual changes to cut manufacturing costs for the Workmate. The WM325 was the only all-aluminum model that Black & Decker ever made (disregarding the footrest) and even the final WM325 Type 4 switched to steel for everything but the H-frame.

I comment briefly on the cost-cutting somewhere on my site, but I purposely don't dwell on it for fear of offending them. (In creating my site I carefully avoided using any of their trademarks in my domain name, but I have constantly been worried about them trying to shut it down.) Scott Landis comments on the cost-cutting in his chapter on the Workmate. I discuss the cost of the aluminum H-frames, manufacturer decisions, and consumer price consciousness at some length in my page about the 79-004: https://h-frame.weebly.com/workmate-79-004.html

If you read through my individual type-study pages for the 79-001 in order from the Type 1 through the Type 9, you can see over and over again that the majority of the dozens of changes they made to the 79-001 were to reduce costs.
 

Oregon rock crusher

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I agree with you Wolf. You layed out the cost vs value argument very well on the 79-004 type 1 page which I just got around to reading. I'll switch back to why the workmate sparked my interest of late. I added a wood shop area a year or so back and rely heavily on easily being able to reconfigue the space for multiple uses. The workmates fill the need perfectly. I spent a brief bit of time this afternoon getting the WM's situated in the space on hooks. Two type E's were key to making it all work. Same height and light enough to easily lift for storage even when I get old. I also put a 79-004 type 1 in the space for outfeed use and small table needs. Stored they take up no space at all.

The space, originally intended only for shop work, has morphed into a play and entertainment space for the kids and grandkids when they visit. A veritable gathering place. The workmates will get used for everything from ping pong table bases to elaborate clamping projects. Couldn't be happier with them. Ed.
 

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wolfcj

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That's quite a multi-use space you have there! Room for lots more Workmates.

And speaking of 79-001 Type E's, there's a newly listed one in the Detroit area:
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/779570073352418

It looks pretty decent; I can't see anything broken. The sawhorse-height feet are missing and the regular feet have been replaced with some unusual ones. It may not include the blue pegs.
 
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Oregon rock crusher

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Those are some strange looking feet on that one. A pretty good deal for someone. I'm always surprised to see type E's sell for nearly the same price or even less than some later stamped steel Workmates. Underappreciated design.
 

Holzwurm

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Finally managed to find one here in Germany. European WM-625 Type 05. It's missing one of the sawhorse position feet and one of the lower feet's rubber boot caps. The jaws are 1" plywood but show quite some water damage, slight delamination in one spot and tons of glue, paint and even construction foam (if that's the right English term for the nasty stuff). All for bench dogs are still there and nothing is broken. Looks all banged up and rusty but works ok.
Comparing its sturdyness to my deceased wobbly Bosch PWB 600 - night and day. I'm totally in love with the Workmate! Will either refresh the old jaws or make a pair of new ones from 20 mm plywood in spring, probably longer and (rear one) wider.

Cheers!

Workmate_625_type05.jpg
 
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wolfcj

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Nice find! Yours is the first E04 I've seen with the hollow crank knobs. The other E04's that I have photos of all have the metal core in the knob. The hollow knobs are typical of the E05, so yours is probably from the transition between these two Types.
 

Holzwurm

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Nice find! Yours is the first E04 I've seen with the hollow crank knobs. The other E04's that I have photos of all have the metal core in the knob. The hollow knobs are typical of the E05, so yours is probably from the transition between these two Types.
Thanks! And I got it for 10€ :)
It's not an E04 but E05. The only thing that's different from the E05 description on your website is the rests for the jaws: rectangular blocks just as with the E04, not dog bone shaped.
No stamp on the footstep but a print on the bottom of the rear jaw saying E05. So it's an E05 with the jaw mounting blocks of an E04.

Awesome website btw! Really loved digging and finding all the old manuals, ads and catalog excerpts in there.
 

4xdog

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The 79-004 Type 1 I found a few months ago is turning into a workhorse. Good enough condition to be a respected user, but not something special that needs to be conserved.

There's more corrosion than I like on the bottom face, the one it's stacked on when collapsed. Is there a recommended, decent-enough-match grey paint from one of the main suppliers that I could protect this area without it showing up too much, @wolfcj?

i-gDqKXH2-L.jpg
 

wolfcj

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I've had email discussions with a few owners who have painted their Workmates and the consensus is that there is no really good match to "Workmate gray". There were some suggested close ones however, and I've been meaning for quite some time to create a web page about cleaning, touching up, and refinishing. I'll have to go back in my email and see what I can find about paint suggestions.
 

4xdog

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I've had email discussions with a few owners who have painted their Workmates and the consensus is that there is no really good match to "Workmate gray". There were some suggested close ones however, and I've been meaning for quite some time to create a web page about cleaning, touching up, and refinishing. I'll have to go back in my email and see what I can find about paint suggestions.

Another option for “Workmate grey” is Duplicolor at the auto parts store. There’s likely more grey variation there than Krylon/Rustoleum. Might very well have been an automotive grey originally for that matter.
 

Holzwurm

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What I'd do in such a situation (and if color matching was important to me) is either:

Remove a small part, e.g. a leg, and take it to a car painter. Afaik these guys have the best portfolios of colors applied to test surfaces (mostly samples) I could ever dream of. Have them take a look at the part and suggest a color. Then either have them paint it or at least buy the paint from them.

Or (diy):

I'd remove the rust and flakey paint mechanically, sand the remaining paint of the bottom part so new paint can stick, spray primer and than a nice, slightly darker grey on top of the primer. Make it a two-tone with just a slight variation (brighter top/darker bottom) - would still look classy. The human eye tends to perceive darker tones closer to the ground as natural anyway.
 

Oregon rock crusher

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I had the same problem with rust on the bottom of my 79-004 type 1 also. I didn't notice how bad it was until It was hanging on the wall. I had a few dark grey's in rattle cans to try and this one isn't a perfect match but pretty close. Quick hit with a wire wheel and spray. Blended mid leg. Better than it was. Also a couple E types earning their keep by helping glue strips on the edges of finish grade plywood. Ed.
 

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rancherbill

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I've had email discussions with a few owners who have painted their Workmates and the consensus is that there is no really good match to "Workmate gray".
I salvaged a Workmate 400.

Concurrently, I was cleaning out the garage and I rediscovered my extensive collection of spray cans that were almost empty. I had been saving because they would be handy some day. Today was that day.

I double coated it with everything from machinery paint to Ford Color matches for a van we once had. I used up 8 cans that all had just a tiny amount of paint!!!

I got rid of all the almost empty cans, I got shelf space, the workmate nicely painted and a great story. It's coated for another 15 years.
 
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Skyman

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I had never given much thought to these WorkMates, even after salvaging one from my dad's basement when we cleared out his house last year. I hauled it home with a truckload of other things, gave it a cursory once-over, was still relatively unimpressed, wrapped it up in lawn and leaf bags, and parked it in a dark corner of my shed. Then I recently found this thread and began reading. Hard to believe it's now accumulated nearly 2,400 posts.

And, it got me to thinking about that dusty thing in that back corner of the shed. So, I went out there and dug it out, hauled it into my workshop, and gave it a more thorough examination. Turns out it's a 400 type 4, and looks as though my dad had probably only used it once or twice. Knowing that he was decidedly not of DIY personality, I'd hazard a guess that he only used it once. In fact, I'm surprised that he even owned it. It might well have been a gift. I'll never know, as he's gone now.

After giving it a bit of a cleanup, it became apparent that this thing is in remarkably good condition. Not quite as-new, but damned close to it. The thing was dusty, but nearly all of that dust was storage dust, with a small amount of sawdust also present.

I downloaded the user's manual from the Interweb to better familiarize myself with its basic operation, and applied some Teflon lube to the sliding surfaces and to the threads of the clamp screws, which really smoothed out all of the various movements. Following the advice posted frequently in this thread, I also applied some of the lube to the plastic catches for the legs, and that made a huge difference. They had been so reluctant to release that I'm surprised none of the snapped, but now the legs slide across those plastic faces nicely, with no hint that anything's being strained.

If the orange dogs were still in dad's basement, I either never found them or didn't know what I was looking at if I did see them, but I ordered up a new set that arrived here via US Mail yesterday.

Having a new-found appreciation for the multiplicity of ways these things can be put to use, this one's going to remain handy for quick access in my shop. Thanks to all who've posted so much useful information. A huge tip of the cap to Wolf for all of the work he's put into his assemblage of data.

Given that this thread has focused primarily on the history of these things, it might be cool to get a separate thread going about all of the various ways that they've been used, customized, etc.

Photos below, some taken before and some after it got a cleanup.

Steve
 

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Oregon rock crusher

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Nice clean 400 Skyman. Doubly special becase it was your dads. From the tag on top 550# is a pretty impressive working load limit on those. A lot more than the older models.
 

Jeff Ivers

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Wanted to make a small open top box (upside down in pic) about 3x2x1. Due to thinness of the wood this is a glue only job. Tried several different clamps before I finally remembered these WM accessories - perfect for the job.
Pioneer 520 clicker box r.jpg
 

wolfcj

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My most recent Workmate use was to sharpen a lawn mower blade a few weeks ago. I tried clamping it flat between the jaws, but that presented the bevel at an awkward angle. I wound up with the blade flat on top of the Workmate, crossways, with the edge to be sharpened hanging off the top. It was held down with two Gripmate clamps. No photos, but it's probably not hard to picture.
 

Holzwurm

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Has anyone made replacement jaws from phenolic-faced birch plywood? This stuff isn't common in the US, but I used to see it all the time in high-wear surfaces in the Nordic countries, especially in central Finland where there was a plywood plant in the same town as my company's chemical plant. Seems like it would make a very durable, highly weather-resistant decking for Workmates whose original boards need to be replaced.

It's available in different colors and different laminate patterns from a number of producers. Here's an example.

form220__web.jpg
I happen to have a 2440 mm x 1220 mm x 20 mm of these, originally bought to make new worktop for my Bosch PWB 600 from. The Bosch turned out to show so much structural wear and damage after a year of light use that I've started looking into workmates this summer - and just recently found a WM 625 E05 with rotten plywood jaws. Here in Germany, this material is often referred to as "Siebdruckplatte" and mine is made of Douglas fir. It's pretty common over here and often used for scaffolding, worktables and trailer flooring.
 

Holzwurm

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Got a few questions regarding the 625. Other than the early American models where the Jaws were screwed on to sheet metal mounts, I've got these cast aluminum spacers. Now in order to get to the screws, I have to remove the cranks and crank shafts. However, the aluminum crank arms are held in place by utterly rusted pins, which won't move when I try to hammer them out.
I'm rather a wood type of guy with zero knowledge regarding metal works, and a bit afraid of destroying something here. What would be the best approach to get these pins out?
 

wolfcj

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Apr 24, 2017
Messages
599
Now in order to get to the screws, I have to remove the cranks and crank shafts. However, the aluminum crank arms are held in place by utterly rusted pins, which won't move when I try to hammer them out.
I think for what you want to do, you only have to remove the crank shafts, not the crank handles. The aluminum pivot nuts are two-piece assemblies, held together with screws. If you take out those screws, the crank will be free and can be slipped out through the front of the Workmate, with the crank handle still attached.
 

Holzwurm

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Oct 2, 2022
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I think for what you want to do, you only have to remove the crank shafts, not the crank handles. The aluminum pivot nuts are two-piece assemblies, held together with screws. If you take out those screws, the crank will be free and can be slipped out through the front of the Workmate, with the crank handle still attached.
Thanks for helping out! Yes that's what I was hoping for initially until a closer look revealed another pin holding the crank shaft in place from inside the housing. This one as baked tight as well, and even harder to get to due to it's location:

WM625_E02_Crankshaft.jpg
 

wolfcj

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Apr 24, 2017
Messages
599
I have removed the Workmate crank handles several times with a punch, so far without damage. Try to get some type of penetrating oil into the hole around the pin. Be generous with it and give it time to work. I usually use Liquid Wrench. An alternative is to use a liquid rust remover. Perhaps one and then the other. Then use the largest punch you have that will fit the hole with just a little clearance. For me, this is 5/32", which I calculate to be 4mm. Put it into the side of the handle where the pin is recessed and punch it out. I remember having to hit one of them quite hard a couple of times before it came out, but it didn't break anything. Of course, your situation may be different, so I certainly don't want to encourage you so much that it winds up breaking something.
 
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Holzwurm

Member
Joined
Oct 2, 2022
Messages
10
I have removed the crank Workmate crank handles several times with a punch, so far without damage. Try to get some type of penetrating oil into the hole around the pin. Be generous with it and give it time to work. I usually use Liquid Wrench. An alternative is to use a liquid rust remover. Perhaps one and then the other. Then use the largest punch you have that will fit the hole with just a little clearance. For me, this is 5/32", which I calculate to be 4mm. Put it into the side of the handle where the pin is recessed and punch it out. I remember having to hit one of them quite hard a couple of times before it came out, but it didn't break anything. Of course, your situation may be different, so I certainly don't want to encourage you so much that it winds up breaking something.
Yeehaw! Got all four pins out with WD40, it just took a moment longer for it to unbake pins :D
Removing the ones holding the crank from inside wasn't enough: the washers don't move past the thread, which is thicker than the unthreaded part of the shaft. All parts are intact bar one of the screws holding the jaws. Previous owner ruined it fastening the front jaw. But one of my father's welding tongs/pliers had enough bite to hold its head in place while I rotated the jaw on top until the screw was out. Thanks again, awesome! I figured the Dremel bits that hold these tiny discs had just the right diameter for driving the pins out carefully. Snug fit in the holes that go through the shaft!
 
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