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Black & Decker Workmate

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Magnum440d100

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Totally forgot I had a workmate until I started moving stuff around. Unfortunately it sat outside for a bit. Fortunately I was able to bring it back inside.

Any idea what vintage it may be? Looks to have aluminum legs possibly.
 

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wolfcj

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Every thing I see about it is consistent with a 79-001 type 2. The aluminum H-frame, the number of holes in the top, the plastic crank handles on metal arms, the stamped brackets attaching the top, the rubber puck tips on the feet. These were produced in 1975-76.
 

54stude

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Twin Cities MN
Black & Decker Workmate

I have been using a beat up old workmate as a welding table and clamp for quite some time, and I finally took some scrap steel and unistrut and started evolving this unit to a true welding table. It is not done yet, but I am happy so far.IMG_0486.jpgIMG_0487.jpgIMG_0488.jpg

I will likely drill and tap some 1/4-28 holes in the top to use the top style workmate clamping feature.
 
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Vahispd

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Nov 21, 2012
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SE VA
I like that modification 54stude! I have been clamping metal pieces to my wooden tops, but your idea is much better.

I would imagine the H-frame is more stable for metalworking too.
 

oldmxracer

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The damn dumb **** that people on here come up with !

Great job 54stude, I like it !

Hope You show Us pictures of the finished version !

Well done !
 

59apachegail

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59
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North East US
I am rebuilding my first transmission, a workmate was used in the instructional videos. Google brought me here and I read through the whole thread. I was lucky to find this cool Type 4 in what I consider great condition for $25. I haven’t even cleaned or oiled it yet. There is a little rust and paint loss. All the feet, rubber covers, dogs in nice shape and aluminum is still shiny. The top smells of mildew but relatively solid. It was raining bad today and the owner had it out on the lawn. It was all swollen so I didn’t have much hope, luckily it dried up pretty well. Thanks GG for another cool tool!

Now that I am proud owner I have a few questions.

Are the plastic parts that the vice screws thread through usable after 40 years or do they become brittle?
Has anyone done anything to refresh or soften up the rubber feet? If so what was used?
Would it help to stain the top to keep it from falling apart or should I just replace them with some plywood?
 

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McBrownie

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Now that I am proud owner I have a few questions.

Are the plastic parts that the vice screws thread through usable after 40 years or do they become brittle?
Has anyone done anything to refresh or soften up the rubber feet? If so what was used?
Would it help to stain the top to keep it from falling apart or should I just replace them with some plywood?

Congrats on a nice addition to the shop.

I haven't had any trouble with the plastic parts becoming brittle.

Replacement feet can be found here:

https://www.ereplacementparts.com/foot-boot-p-95587.html
https://www.ereplacementparts.com/foot-p-95588.html

I have had some that are hard plastic and some that are soft rubber - both from ereplacements. I ordered a year or two apart. However, the last set I ordered were softer rubber, which I prefer.

Try some polyurethane on the tops before replacing. Also, measure the holes if you do replace. They are typically 20mm, not 3/4"
 
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wolfcj

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Apr 24, 2017
Messages
599
Are the plastic parts that the vice screws thread through usable after 40 years or do they become brittle?
Has anyone done anything to refresh or soften up the rubber feet? If so what was used?
Would it help to stain the top to keep it from falling apart or should I just replace them with some plywood?

I've seen many more Workmates with broken plastic handles than broken plastic follower nuts. Just don't abuse it and they should be fine.

I've never tried anything on the feet. Maybe an automotive vinyl/rubber conditioner? I think the condition depends mostly on where the unit was stored. You can't get original replacement feet for the 79-001 models anymore.

Is the top on yours unusable? It doesn't look too bad in the photos. The particle board top and the plastic parts are the two main drawbacks of the Type 4 vs. the Type 2, and you zeroed right in on them!
 

y'sguy

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May 1, 2010
Messages
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Location
Tulsa, Oklahoma
I am rebuilding my first transmission, a workmate was used in the instructional videos. Google brought me here and I read through the whole thread. I was lucky to find this cool Type 4 in what I consider great condition for $25. I haven’t even cleaned or oiled it yet. There is a little rust and paint loss. All the feet, rubber covers, dogs in nice shape and aluminum is still shiny. The top smells of mildew but relatively solid. It was raining bad today and the owner had it out on the lawn. It was all swollen so I didn’t have much hope, luckily it dried up pretty well. Thanks GG for another cool tool!

Now that I am proud owner I have a few questions.

Are the plastic parts that the vice screws thread through usable after 40 years or do they become brittle?
Has anyone done anything to refresh or soften up the rubber feet? If so what was used?
Would it help to stain the top to keep it from falling apart or should I just replace them with some plywood?

Congrats, and welcome the B&D snobs club :lol_hitti

Seriously, that looks like a nice setup and in pretty good shape as is. Unless you just enjoy redoing things I would just oil the mechanics and go with it as is for awhile. Some guys on here have redone the tops for different reasons to a good or better outcome but again yours looks good enough to work with. IMHO. :beer:
I have two of them that I both purchased in about the same condition as yours. I use them alot. FYI, you got a good deal! More common to see them upwards of 40-50 in my area if you are lucky, but more likely 125, 150!.
 

trijeff

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I used a rubber conditioner called Varn, I think they use it for printing press rollers. Works fantastic. Not sure what quantity you have to buy, I got a bit from work over a decade ago and still going strong. If too much, maybe try a belt conditioner.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
 

59apachegail

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Jul 6, 2014
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59
Location
North East US
Thanks for the kinds words and the info! I got lucky most others on CL were 400's and in rough shape for $40 -$75. I was about to get a type 8? until this one popped up

The top is decent with normal nics and scuffs from light use. I am afraid that as soon as I start putting this thing through its paces that top will start flaking unless I treat it. It looks great but is very dry. I purchased from the previous owner's daughter who was in her 70s. It smelled of mildew was full of dust and spider webs. Best guess is that it has been languishing in a basement for the last 30 years.

Just a quick request for a small history lesson.
Does anyone know if the 79-001 became the 400? Also is dating via paint color possible? I have seen quiet a few with a light blue and other with a grey color. The smugmug page doesn't really get into paint color. Thanks you
 

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wolfcj

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The 400 was a later model of the Workmate than the 79-001, if that's what you're asking. The 79-001 type 4 was sold from 1977 to 1978. One blue model of the 79-001, the Type 3, was sold in the U.S., but is relatively rare now. The one in your first photo there is a 79-001 type 7. The significant combination of features include the single-layer jaws, the style of label on the H-frame, the steel latch levers, and the style of lower-height feet.
 
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Elvisidal

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Nov 29, 2018
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Australia
Finally got the workmate I was looking for.
Free on the side of the road no less. Works 100% just needs new jaws the current ones have swelled a bit. What’s the go to material for new jaws?
Black. Steel. Dual height. Folding feet. Flat jaws. Nothing fancy but after encountering numerous “improved” models wasn’t sold.
Except the Ryobi knockoff I linked before. If you work on cylindrical stuff often they’re fantastic.
 

Outlawmws

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Pics?

Generally for the strongest jaw, its marine ply- the good (expensive) stuff. Maybe you can get some scraps from a shop that uses a lot of it?

The older WM's had the jaw face doubled and then grooved with the little "V" and if yours will accommodate the extra below I'd recommend that.

As was recently mentioned the dog holes are metric, not inches, but being down under that may not be a big deal?
 

BajaScout

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May 1, 2011
Messages
4,608
Location
San Diego, CA
Re: Black & Decker Workmate

I have been using a beat up old workmate as a welding table and clamp for quite some time, and I finally took some scrap steel and unistrut and started evolving this unit to a true welding table. It is not done yet, but I am happy so far.IMG_0486.jpgIMG_0487.jpgIMG_0488.jpg

I will likely drill and tap some 1/4-28 holes in the top to use the top style workmate clamping feature.

Did you finish this? Would like to see the final product.
 

wolfcj

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Joined
Apr 24, 2017
Messages
599
I ran across an unusual, surprising listing on eBay this week, selling vintage parts for a Workmate:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-BLACK-DECKER-WORKMATE-PARTS/333100740358?hash=item4d8e59ef06:g:r-cAAOSwajRcZfcw

It includes all of the major, removable parts that operate the Workmate jaws and connect them to the top of the frame. Most surprisingly, they are for the 79-001 type 1 and type 3 models, which are the least common of the early Workmates. The parts seem to be in very good condition, although I wonder why there's a small cable tie on one of the screws.

Other than the plastic handles, I don't think I've ever seen these parts break, so I'm not sure who would buy these. I can't remember -- is there anyone still reading this thread who owns a type 1 or type 3? The type 3 was also sold as the WM625 in the U.K.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Early-Black-amp-Decker-WM625-Workmate-Workbench-no-springs-/264089417819?hash=item3d7cf4b85b%3Ag%3A7wsAAOSw3BJb%7E9Jo&nma=true&si=QMzgiwo4%252BRTLABTTtNr9JSZL9Ao%253D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

(Note that I am not the seller of the parts, and I don't know the seller!)
 
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Elvisidal

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Australia
Pics?

Generally for the strongest jaw, its marine ply- the good (expensive) stuff. Maybe you can get some scraps from a shop that uses a lot of it?

The older WM's had the jaw face doubled and then grooved with the little "V" and if yours will accommodate the extra below I'd recommend that.

As was recently mentioned the dog holes are metric, not inches, but being down under that may not be a big deal?

Can’t. It’s buried under a pile of rubbish.
Marine ply was my first thought but I can only find it in full sheets
I’m going to use some jarrah I have laying around
 

wolfcj

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Marine ply was my first thought but I can only find it in full sheets
I’m going to use some jarrah I have laying around

The originals used a 13-ply plywood that I would refer to as a Baltic Birch, although it might not be that exact material. The jaws on most of those have held up quite well, so I wouldn't hesitate to use that. The ones that were most likely to swell were made from particle board; is that what yours are?
 

Outlawmws

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Those Eprey parts would be the key parts needed to build a workmate-like clamp into a workbench, which I want to do in some future workshop for a bench tools station without eating up the entirety of a BIG bench with all the different bench tools I have...

WAY too much $$ for that though as any beater Workmate could be had for much less. I already have one of the bench-top Workmates and would probably adapt that for the s=task... (Probably cost me $4-5...)
 
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wolfcj

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Apr 24, 2017
Messages
599
WAY too much $$ for that though as any beater Workmate could be had for much less.

Yeah, those parts would only make sense for someone who had a type 1 or type 3 that was otherwise very good but needed those parts for a restoration. I also expect the price will come down.
 

Stuart in MN

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The originals used a 13-ply plywood that I would refer to as a Baltic Birch, although it might not be that exact material. The jaws on most of those have held up quite well, so I wouldn't hesitate to use that. The ones that were most likely to swell were made from particle board; is that what yours are?


I think it may have been Appleply - that's a hardwood plywood that can be had with 13 layers. https://www.statesind.com/product/appleply You may be able to find it at specialty lumber yards or woodworking stores, or there are places that sell it online in a variety of sizes.


appleply.jpg
 

Scotto

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Apr 8, 2008
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South Jersey
Thanks for the kinds words and the info! I got lucky most others on CL were 400's and in rough shape for $40 -$75. I was about to get a type 8? until this one popped up

The top is decent with normal nics and scuffs from light use. I am afraid that as soon as I start putting this thing through its paces that top will start flaking unless I treat it. It looks great but is very dry. I purchased from the previous owner's daughter who was in her 70s. It smelled of mildew was full of dust and spider webs. Best guess is that it has been languishing in a basement for the last 30 years.

Just a quick request for a small history lesson.
Does anyone know if the 79-001 became the 400? Also is dating via paint color possible? I have seen quiet a few with a light blue and other with a grey color. The smugmug page doesn't really get into paint color. Thanks you

So I'm assuming this one is sold? lol
 

Stuart in MN

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Definitely something similar. Appleply is the U.S.-made equivalent of the Baltic Birch plywood that's made in Europe.



I could be wrong but I think Appleply is a little more deluxe than Baltic Birch, at least compared to the Baltic Birch plywood I've bought recently. I think you can get it with more plys, and it's available in a variety of wood species.
 

Dennis Leigh Henry

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wolfcj

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Wow, it sure did clean up nicely! The one thing I notice missing is the aluminum jaw protectors. I think these were packed separately and had to be installed. The entire jaw assembly on this model is nearly identical to that for the 79-020 Benchtop Workmate, the one with the tilting top.
 
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