OP
aggierailroad
Well-known member
Miami, Wynwood district. It's outside of a local brewery.
Black Hat Shop Works
- Thread starter aggierailroad
- Start date
Miami, Wynwood district. It's outside of a local brewery.
OP
aggierailroad
Well-known member
Something followed me home this weekend....
1983 South Bend CL670R "10K" with a truck load of tooling and attachments. Single hobby owner, the guy used to make model steam engines.
Here's a few pics in its original home:
T slot table on the cross feed for dual tool holding:
Tailstock, complete with lots of tooling (not shown)
Milling attachment:
Steady rest:
Also have a follower rest, no pic yet.
That's the biggest update I have over the weekend. That is, unless anyone wants pics of the trim paint drying?
1983 South Bend CL670R "10K" with a truck load of tooling and attachments. Single hobby owner, the guy used to make model steam engines.
Here's a few pics in its original home:
T slot table on the cross feed for dual tool holding:
Tailstock, complete with lots of tooling (not shown)
Milling attachment:
Steady rest:
Also have a follower rest, no pic yet.
That's the biggest update I have over the weekend. That is, unless anyone wants pics of the trim paint drying?
Radio Ron w4ron
Well-known member
WOW, what a GREAT find, congrats.
This deserves a "YOU ****" for sure.
I'd love to find one, ofcourse I'd have to build another shop building
to have room for it
.
This deserves a "YOU ****" for sure.
I'd love to find one, ofcourse I'd have to build another shop building
to have room for it
.
OP
aggierailroad
Well-known member
Who said I have room for it?
56vette461
Well-known member
I can always find room for a good addition to the shop. I love your find. Good luck
bulletpruf
Well-known member
Incredible workmanship! Thanks for sharing.
Scott
Scott
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
Aggie.....nice lathe!!! If you are going to bench mount it like the PO did, put a sheet of steel on the bench and have it rolled up towards the wall. That way you won't have oil splashing, and your swarf will roll down the back to the bottom. Makes for easier cleaning.
OP
aggierailroad
Well-known member
Agreed. Just have to rearrange some stuff and get a little bit more efficient with storage.
Thanks, most of what I do is nothing a little caulk can't fix
Thank you sir. Wish I would have had it back when I broke that table saw spindle...... I'm definitely considering getting a pan bent up, probably 12 ga., but was trying to get creative and incorporate a slant/sump to aid in collecting fluids or the later addition of a coolant sump. Any thoughts?
OP
aggierailroad
Well-known member
Got a lot of projects ticked off the list this weekend. Unfortunately, this required the addition of a few more new projects... It never ends.
First up is the completion of the massive trim project. About 100 hours in this.
This is where we started. Just tore out the drywall around the windows.
To this:
I'm pretty pleased with it.
Back to the Craftsman mirror frame project. I bought a cove molding router bit and decided to give making my own the old college try.
Start by ripping your stock oversized. This cuts a 1 3/4" wide cove, and to allow for your profile cuts, I think I ripped them at 2.5" or so. Rip extra, as setting everything up back like you had it if you are short will not happen again.
Take light passes on a low speed with your router. A router table is best here, but you can use a plunge router. I took off about 1/8" per pass for 3 passes total.
The trick for a good finish is to use an even feed rate and even pressure on top. A feather board would work best to apply downward pressure. This avoids creating hollows by minutely pressing down harder as you feed over the bit.
Make a 45 degree cut setting the blade to just clear where the cove starts. Then, flip the board and cut your spring angle 45s. Most crown from the lumber store has a 38 degree spring angle to make it sit up taller and appear larger. The 45 is perfect here for a furniture application.
I got some saw burn marks, those got planed out with a little block plane. I prefer to sand the cove first, 150 then 220 with a soft sanding sponge. Then, I'll take the plane and clean up the sides. This puts back the nice crisp edges that you want in molding that your sanding sponge removed.
A little magic, glue and pin nails later and you have a nice top for your frame. The router bit was about $24 and the molding took about an hour to make. The lumber yard wanted a $100 set up fee plus like $3 a foot to make this. I needed 8 feet...
Lastly, got some smelly feet to make a stand for a certain lathe.. Thanks to our members here for the idea to use these adjustable feet. 3/4" is overkill, but man it will look good.
First up is the completion of the massive trim project. About 100 hours in this.
This is where we started. Just tore out the drywall around the windows.
To this:
I'm pretty pleased with it.
Back to the Craftsman mirror frame project. I bought a cove molding router bit and decided to give making my own the old college try.
Start by ripping your stock oversized. This cuts a 1 3/4" wide cove, and to allow for your profile cuts, I think I ripped them at 2.5" or so. Rip extra, as setting everything up back like you had it if you are short will not happen again.
Take light passes on a low speed with your router. A router table is best here, but you can use a plunge router. I took off about 1/8" per pass for 3 passes total.
The trick for a good finish is to use an even feed rate and even pressure on top. A feather board would work best to apply downward pressure. This avoids creating hollows by minutely pressing down harder as you feed over the bit.
Make a 45 degree cut setting the blade to just clear where the cove starts. Then, flip the board and cut your spring angle 45s. Most crown from the lumber store has a 38 degree spring angle to make it sit up taller and appear larger. The 45 is perfect here for a furniture application.
I got some saw burn marks, those got planed out with a little block plane. I prefer to sand the cove first, 150 then 220 with a soft sanding sponge. Then, I'll take the plane and clean up the sides. This puts back the nice crisp edges that you want in molding that your sanding sponge removed.
A little magic, glue and pin nails later and you have a nice top for your frame. The router bit was about $24 and the molding took about an hour to make. The lumber yard wanted a $100 set up fee plus like $3 a foot to make this. I needed 8 feet...
Lastly, got some smelly feet to make a stand for a certain lathe.. Thanks to our members here for the idea to use these adjustable feet. 3/4" is overkill, but man it will look good.
MP&C
Well-known member
The trim and wainscot really makes the room, night and day difference. Was trimming out some windows myself this weekend, something left over from building the place.
Where did you find the adjustable feet?
Where did you find the adjustable feet?
OP
aggierailroad
Well-known member
J.W. Winco. I think about $17 per. 8 or 9k pound rating apiece. These slip into .065 wall 2" tubing. I'll fill the tube with packed sand for vibration absorption.
OP
aggierailroad
Well-known member
Got a little done this weekend. Most notably, bought some 0.065" wall (16 ga) 2" square tubing for the lathe stand. 72 feet of it to be exact. Ended up getting a good deal on some 24' joints so I got some extra. For those curious minds, total cost was $78, which included a few bucks to have them cut in half to get them in the truck bed.
Also picked up this beauty that will be integrated into the lathe stand.
Total top area will be around 24" wide, 60" long. I'd like it to be a bit narrower, but the box is too tall with the lathe and would put the controls too high. As it sits now, the controls will be at about 47". I'm 6'2" so this is right around elbow height.
One leg squared and tacked.
Going together..
I just use my trusty Starrett 6" combination square and a tape measure. It's out of square 1/16" over the 60". Well within tolerance.
The entire thing will get tacked together, checked for fit, then finish welded to minimize warping. This stuff is thin and you have to manage your heat input.
Here's the general layout. Still have to weld in a few more risers and then begin fabrication of the pulley system and VFD (maybe) hangers. The legs will get filled with packed sand (dry) to absorb vibration and add mass. It will add about 75 lbs overall. The box has about 400 lbs of total mass, plus the lathe and steel, and we're at about 1,200 lbs. It should be nice and stable.
For the curious minds, I recently bought a pretty old "American" hand crank bench grinder to put a hollow grind on my chisels and planes. 11:1 ratio and accepts a 6" grindstone.
I was going to restore it and paint it, but went ahead and just cleaned it up and wiped it down. Used a dry spray lube and sealed the case back with RTV.
I also got some time to work on that Pachemyer gun case again and got the clamping mechanism sorted out.
Upgraded it to hold 3 pistols. I've got a video, you can see it on my Instagram or I'll try to upload it to YouTube.
Thanks for reading.
Also picked up this beauty that will be integrated into the lathe stand.
Total top area will be around 24" wide, 60" long. I'd like it to be a bit narrower, but the box is too tall with the lathe and would put the controls too high. As it sits now, the controls will be at about 47". I'm 6'2" so this is right around elbow height.
One leg squared and tacked.
Going together..
I just use my trusty Starrett 6" combination square and a tape measure. It's out of square 1/16" over the 60". Well within tolerance.
The entire thing will get tacked together, checked for fit, then finish welded to minimize warping. This stuff is thin and you have to manage your heat input.
Here's the general layout. Still have to weld in a few more risers and then begin fabrication of the pulley system and VFD (maybe) hangers. The legs will get filled with packed sand (dry) to absorb vibration and add mass. It will add about 75 lbs overall. The box has about 400 lbs of total mass, plus the lathe and steel, and we're at about 1,200 lbs. It should be nice and stable.
For the curious minds, I recently bought a pretty old "American" hand crank bench grinder to put a hollow grind on my chisels and planes. 11:1 ratio and accepts a 6" grindstone.
I was going to restore it and paint it, but went ahead and just cleaned it up and wiped it down. Used a dry spray lube and sealed the case back with RTV.
I also got some time to work on that Pachemyer gun case again and got the clamping mechanism sorted out.
Upgraded it to hold 3 pistols. I've got a video, you can see it on my Instagram or I'll try to upload it to YouTube.
Thanks for reading.
OP
aggierailroad
Well-known member
Been working on the lathe stand. Got the drive box unit fit in. On big tables like these where I can't clamp to my work surface, I've found that tacking the entire thing together first helps maintain square. Check it again and again all throughout the fitup.
Then, weld out the seams, working in a star pattern across individual tubes, and across the table. I was using what I loosely call a "running stitch" weld. A series of hot tacks that are overlapped. They are made before the mask even has time to switch back off. Squirt, see it flow into the metal to avoid cold joints, release, move, squirt, repeat. If you don't move fast enough you'll get the wire solidifying in the puddle, that's your indicator for speed.
On my Miller 211, on this 16 gauge tube, I was using 0.023" wire, voltage setting of about 3.3, wire speed I think just under 60 IPM, 75/25 gas mixture. I'm no welding coach, but I did make a test and cut it open, full penetration, good and tight HAZ and clean welds without porosity. No complaints here.
Not ZTFab yet, but I'm working on it!
Everyone these days seems to know about metal prep, so I'll just mention what I do. On tubing, which lends to having a natural bevel on the corners for face welds, I just hit the corner with the grinder to knock off the mill scale and reveal shiny metal. On the tube ends I use a right angle pneumatic die grinder with a 60 grit Roloc sanding pad. I try to clean back to bright metal about 3/4" inch. Where I fillet weld a tube in the middle of another tube, I take my soapstone and mark roughly where the weld will be, cleaning pass with the grinder to quickly knock the mill scale off, and a light final pass with the Roloc pad. Here again, about 3/4" in either direction of the weld. I did not wipe with any spirits or solvents. It adds a lot of time to each joint, but you get a lot better weld, in fact, I've only got an hour of welding into this (or less) most of it being fit and cleanup.
Cheers to all, have a happy Saturday watching football.
Oh, and I shellac'd the gun case and got the royal blue flocking for it. Pics to come.
Then, weld out the seams, working in a star pattern across individual tubes, and across the table. I was using what I loosely call a "running stitch" weld. A series of hot tacks that are overlapped. They are made before the mask even has time to switch back off. Squirt, see it flow into the metal to avoid cold joints, release, move, squirt, repeat. If you don't move fast enough you'll get the wire solidifying in the puddle, that's your indicator for speed.
On my Miller 211, on this 16 gauge tube, I was using 0.023" wire, voltage setting of about 3.3, wire speed I think just under 60 IPM, 75/25 gas mixture. I'm no welding coach, but I did make a test and cut it open, full penetration, good and tight HAZ and clean welds without porosity. No complaints here.
Not ZTFab yet, but I'm working on it!
Everyone these days seems to know about metal prep, so I'll just mention what I do. On tubing, which lends to having a natural bevel on the corners for face welds, I just hit the corner with the grinder to knock off the mill scale and reveal shiny metal. On the tube ends I use a right angle pneumatic die grinder with a 60 grit Roloc sanding pad. I try to clean back to bright metal about 3/4" inch. Where I fillet weld a tube in the middle of another tube, I take my soapstone and mark roughly where the weld will be, cleaning pass with the grinder to quickly knock the mill scale off, and a light final pass with the Roloc pad. Here again, about 3/4" in either direction of the weld. I did not wipe with any spirits or solvents. It adds a lot of time to each joint, but you get a lot better weld, in fact, I've only got an hour of welding into this (or less) most of it being fit and cleanup.
Cheers to all, have a happy Saturday watching football.
Oh, and I shellac'd the gun case and got the royal blue flocking for it. Pics to come.
dragginbalz
Well-known member
Looking good!
For the record, ZTFAB runs a continuous bead and not individual spot welds. For 16 gauge tubing, either will work ok, but in my opinion you should practice running beads and not spot welds. If you try welding 1/8" or 3/16" tubing with that technique, I don't believe you will have full penetration. Aside from being stronger and faster the bead is smoother, you get less spatter and you don't get the dimple in the middle of each spot.
Just my opinion though...
For the record, ZTFAB runs a continuous bead and not individual spot welds. For 16 gauge tubing, either will work ok, but in my opinion you should practice running beads and not spot welds. If you try welding 1/8" or 3/16" tubing with that technique, I don't believe you will have full penetration. Aside from being stronger and faster the bead is smoother, you get less spatter and you don't get the dimple in the middle of each spot.
Just my opinion though...
OP
aggierailroad
Well-known member
You're right, I'd never try to spot something thicker. I got the mirror and light out and checked, there is certainly full pen everywhere.
Now I'm definitely just going off the deep end here, but, on this table, at each attachment point, there is enough weld material to theoretically support 180,000lbs (assuming a low tensile strength wire of 60,000 lbs), well beyond the local yield of the steel (A36 - 36,000lbs) and certainly above the design (1,000lbs/leg) and the buckling critical load (77,817 lbs). So, moral of the story? Dragginbalz makes a great point - choose your welds carefully. There is a lot of info out there, and a lot of people willing to help you figure it out.
Rant over - happy welding all. Dragginbalz, thanks for the comments, as you can tell, I get excited talking about welding.............
Now I'm definitely just going off the deep end here, but, on this table, at each attachment point, there is enough weld material to theoretically support 180,000lbs (assuming a low tensile strength wire of 60,000 lbs), well beyond the local yield of the steel (A36 - 36,000lbs) and certainly above the design (1,000lbs/leg) and the buckling critical load (77,817 lbs). So, moral of the story? Dragginbalz makes a great point - choose your welds carefully. There is a lot of info out there, and a lot of people willing to help you figure it out.
Rant over - happy welding all. Dragginbalz, thanks for the comments, as you can tell, I get excited talking about welding.............
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OP
aggierailroad
Well-known member
Barely got anything done, but did have a nice visit with works4me of North Street Shop Works. He was kind enough to let me borrow his engine lift so that I can start determining where the lathe will be mounted to convert to an under drive arrangement. He was also more than gracious enough to permanently loan me some steel for the toolbox supports - something that I got welded in last night.
Bought a book, Campaign Furniture by Christopher Schwarz. Really well made, really great info and tutorials on how to make the popular pieces.
And, shared a pic on Instagram (@blackhatshopworks) that compelled me to think last night while I was sweeping up: leave those blood spots to remind you how far you've come and how much you've learned. It's a little hokey, but in some ways pretty darn true.
I also took the wife shoe shopping, but I think you don't want to see pics of that..
Bought a book, Campaign Furniture by Christopher Schwarz. Really well made, really great info and tutorials on how to make the popular pieces.
And, shared a pic on Instagram (@blackhatshopworks) that compelled me to think last night while I was sweeping up: leave those blood spots to remind you how far you've come and how much you've learned. It's a little hokey, but in some ways pretty darn true.
I also took the wife shoe shopping, but I think you don't want to see pics of that..
MP&C
Well-known member
I think we all need those subtle reminders to help keep the same screw up from happening again...
Nice progress on the stand! I just sold the L-tec welder so I'll need a new 3 story welder cart, mig, tig, and dent puller. May have to borrow some ideas..
Nice progress on the stand! I just sold the L-tec welder so I'll need a new 3 story welder cart, mig, tig, and dent puller.
May have to borrow some ideas..
OP
aggierailroad
Well-known member
I think we all need those subtle reminders to help keep the same screw up from happening again...
Nice progress on the stand! I just sold the L-tec welder so I'll need a new 3 story welder cart, mig, tig, and dent puller.
Thanks, Robert. I've been toying with that idea as well. At work, we made a double decker, side by side cart that had a central column with collars on it. Each weldpac rotated out away from the centerline for maintenance. Pretty neat idea.
Anyways... got the dang cabinet in for a test fit. It turns out that it wasn't easy. It turns out that I'm too used to woodworking and really, really tight tolerances. It turns out I could barely get the straps out. It turns out I put it in backwards.
So, regroup. I forgot to take photos, but I bit the bullet and put casters in. 12, 1/4"-20 holes in the 3/8" plate gussets. Broke the tap on the second to last hole, of course. Being old and wise, I bought two taps.
It's the small things in life.
Really like this style. They self align for when you aren't tapping with a machine or a tap-block.
Wheels on:
The wife wanted a shelf....
Use an old chisel to scrape the glue off after about 45 minutes. Super easy.
She's finally off of the ground and ready to get the motor installed.
The shop, (garage) more organized than ever....
Hot Chop shop
Well-known member
Buy two taps got it! Always learn good information here!
OP
aggierailroad
Well-known member
Better believe it. I got tired and greedy - let my technique slide. Cost me a half-hour digging the old tap out. $6 from Lowes for the drill/tap set, not bad if you ask me.
OP
aggierailroad
Well-known member
Not much work done. Changed the spark plugs in the Ford. 118,000 miles or so, only had some light "charring" no oil or burnt tips.
And.... got the motor mounted for the undermount conversion. Here's what I came up with: string around the upper pulleys running down through the casting hole in the base. Made a loop and ran it around a piece of plywood ripped to the same width as the middle drive pulley diameter. I clamped this board in a spot on the bottom of the table where the rope didn't rub on anything.
Then I measured the rough distance from the motor mount base to the pulley center. Eye-balled the location on the rails, marked it, and cut some uni-strut to fit between the rails. I used the uni for two reasons: I have it, and it provides some lateral adjustment for belt alignment. The system will use the weight of the motor and pulleys for tension, along with a small tension rod to keep it from kicking up. Odds are I'll be putting in a VFD and 1hp motor. Looks like there is plenty of room.
Onwards and upwards I suppose.
And.... got the motor mounted for the undermount conversion. Here's what I came up with: string around the upper pulleys running down through the casting hole in the base. Made a loop and ran it around a piece of plywood ripped to the same width as the middle drive pulley diameter. I clamped this board in a spot on the bottom of the table where the rope didn't rub on anything.
Then I measured the rough distance from the motor mount base to the pulley center. Eye-balled the location on the rails, marked it, and cut some uni-strut to fit between the rails. I used the uni for two reasons: I have it, and it provides some lateral adjustment for belt alignment. The system will use the weight of the motor and pulleys for tension, along with a small tension rod to keep it from kicking up. Odds are I'll be putting in a VFD and 1hp motor. Looks like there is plenty of room.
Onwards and upwards I suppose.
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jose's garage
Well-known member
OP
aggierailroad
Well-known member
Good stuff. I used his tutorial for my table saw sled.
MP&C
Well-known member
Nice work on the motor relocation!
OP
aggierailroad
Well-known member
Aww shucks... Thanks, Robert. Priced a vfd today and motor... Maybe around $250. Add in some wire and maybe a panel- I hope it's worth it!
OP
aggierailroad
Well-known member
Was sick, but got in some time on Sunday. Not much to it, especially when you need a lathe to turn a bushing to build your lathe...
Was mounting the tension rod for the flat belt and would have liked to have some kind of delrin bushing to keep it locked in. For now, I drilled a hole and will make the bushing later.
Had some clearance issues with the original motor, but the new 3 phase I'm looking at (1Hp Baldor) has a 56 mount and should have the room in the back.
To do is purchase the VFD, mount, wire it in. Mount air regulator and coil line. Make top (thinking doubled 3/4" ply instead of the original 2x4 glued on edge). Make tray for top. Paint. Mount the box. Assemble. Level. Turn. Beer.
Was mounting the tension rod for the flat belt and would have liked to have some kind of delrin bushing to keep it locked in. For now, I drilled a hole and will make the bushing later.
Had some clearance issues with the original motor, but the new 3 phase I'm looking at (1Hp Baldor) has a 56 mount and should have the room in the back.
To do is purchase the VFD, mount, wire it in. Mount air regulator and coil line. Make top (thinking doubled 3/4" ply instead of the original 2x4 glued on edge). Make tray for top. Paint. Mount the box. Assemble. Level. Turn. Beer.
OP
aggierailroad
Well-known member
It would have been wise to not start fitting components until I had all of the components in hand.. But..
1 hp 3ph 230V motor came in, courtesy of eBay. Glad to have a Baldor vs. the import I was looking at. 1725 rpm, 4.6 amps. Also got the Teco FM50 VFD, 12V converter (lights), terminal block, grounding lug in the mail.
First thing first - take the old motor out, change the pulley over.
Then mount the motor to discover that it interferes with the belt tensioner and the pivot base for the jack shaft.. So, I'll have to pull it, drill and tap new mounting holes (it's a 56 style mount, so easy enough). While I've got it out, I'm going to go ahead and move the oiling cups on the shaft to a more vertical position and plug the old ones. It just has me a little paranoid, but I'm just as paranoid as trying to fit new ones. Taking advice on this if anyone's done it before.
Lastly, mock up the control panel. This will all go below the drive system. Remote switches and potentiometer have been purchased and are on their way. 230V power will come in and feed the VFD and converter. Grounds will be common, and the air is there to regulate down to about 10 or 15 psi for a local blower setup. The pressure is enough to blow chips without making you deaf or putting your eye out. I had the regulator left from another project and want this to be the last lathe stand I need.
Everything is mounted to a 1/2" piece of maple. Just flattened her a little with the plane and added a chamfer for visual appeal using a spokeshave. Scribe lines with a sharp pencil on both edges to chamfer. Use the spokeshave working inwards toward the center. When you are almost there, finish up with a small block plane - one or two passes max. Transfer punches are your friend here for making marks so you can pre-drill. Use hand tools to tighten to avoid cracking the plastic anywhere. I got the terminal block from Lite Cycle - fast and a great product. It has knockouts on both sides.
That's it for now. Out of town for work, but next up is to also make a regulator mount. It's a panel mount, so I'll use square tubing with a hole drilled in it.
1 hp 3ph 230V motor came in, courtesy of eBay. Glad to have a Baldor vs. the import I was looking at. 1725 rpm, 4.6 amps. Also got the Teco FM50 VFD, 12V converter (lights), terminal block, grounding lug in the mail.
First thing first - take the old motor out, change the pulley over.
Then mount the motor to discover that it interferes with the belt tensioner and the pivot base for the jack shaft.. So, I'll have to pull it, drill and tap new mounting holes (it's a 56 style mount, so easy enough). While I've got it out, I'm going to go ahead and move the oiling cups on the shaft to a more vertical position and plug the old ones. It just has me a little paranoid, but I'm just as paranoid as trying to fit new ones. Taking advice on this if anyone's done it before.
Lastly, mock up the control panel. This will all go below the drive system. Remote switches and potentiometer have been purchased and are on their way. 230V power will come in and feed the VFD and converter. Grounds will be common, and the air is there to regulate down to about 10 or 15 psi for a local blower setup. The pressure is enough to blow chips without making you deaf or putting your eye out. I had the regulator left from another project and want this to be the last lathe stand I need.
Everything is mounted to a 1/2" piece of maple. Just flattened her a little with the plane and added a chamfer for visual appeal using a spokeshave. Scribe lines with a sharp pencil on both edges to chamfer. Use the spokeshave working inwards toward the center. When you are almost there, finish up with a small block plane - one or two passes max. Transfer punches are your friend here for making marks so you can pre-drill. Use hand tools to tighten to avoid cracking the plastic anywhere. I got the terminal block from Lite Cycle - fast and a great product. It has knockouts on both sides.
That's it for now. Out of town for work, but next up is to also make a regulator mount. It's a panel mount, so I'll use square tubing with a hole drilled in it.
MP&C
Well-known member
Once you get all practiced up with motor conversions and vfd's, I need to send a manual bead roller to you for a power conversion.. 
Hello aggierailroad,
Very nice job. I am amazed of your energy. I purchased a craftsman 113 and the front panel is a mess while the image doesnt show the sides they have many deep scratches.
Thought of using a swirl pattern vinyl sheet like this http://www.hotrodworks.net/decal/dash.html#
Can you post an image of your finished saw?
Thanks!
Very nice job. I am amazed of your energy. I purchased a craftsman 113 and the front panel is a mess while the image doesnt show the sides they have many deep scratches.
Thought of using a swirl pattern vinyl sheet like this http://www.hotrodworks.net/decal/dash.html#
Can you post an image of your finished saw?
Thanks!
OP
aggierailroad
Well-known member
Always the guinea pig and never a bride...
Does that even make sense?
You bet - so far, not having wired it up... It couldn't be any easier. I'm actually hesitant to post up how I wired it and set up the VFD. There is already so much info out there and I'm not too sure what's good versus what's bad yet. Luckily, I've got a Electrical and Instrumentation engineer that sits across from me who works for food and cheap Irish whisky.
Does that even make sense?
You bet - so far, not having wired it up... It couldn't be any easier. I'm actually hesitant to post up how I wired it and set up the VFD. There is already so much info out there and I'm not too sure what's good versus what's bad yet. Luckily, I've got a Electrical and Instrumentation engineer that sits across from me who works for food and cheap Irish whisky.
OP
aggierailroad
Well-known member
Thanks, welcome to Garage Journal! I'm out of town right now but can hopefully have one by early next week. They vinyl sounds like a very good alternative - although it might be tricky on the curves.
OP
aggierailroad
Well-known member
This is the best I could find...
Blurry pic, but I got some wrench organizers for Christmas.
Supports welded in for the lathe stand. Center one is used to mount the lathe, the other one is there for support and in case I need to hang anything from it later.
Made some tabs to mount the panels onto. It's some severely corroded metal, but it's all I had on hand during the holiday. Drilled and tapped 1/4-20 holes.
Used some scrap and a few magnets to align the tabs.
Tabs all in, and a bracket for the air bulkhead fittings on the front. I know I'll regret having them in the front, but it ended up being the best place.
And... brushed on some red primer paint.
Now I need to work on alllll of this fun stuff...
Blurry pic, but I got some wrench organizers for Christmas.
Supports welded in for the lathe stand. Center one is used to mount the lathe, the other one is there for support and in case I need to hang anything from it later.
Made some tabs to mount the panels onto. It's some severely corroded metal, but it's all I had on hand during the holiday. Drilled and tapped 1/4-20 holes.
Used some scrap and a few magnets to align the tabs.
Tabs all in, and a bracket for the air bulkhead fittings on the front. I know I'll regret having them in the front, but it ended up being the best place.
And... brushed on some red primer paint.
Now I need to work on alllll of this fun stuff...
OP
aggierailroad
Well-known member
Lots of progress this weekend.
"Control Panel" wiring getting started.
Final product for testing. Still need an overlay for markings, maybe some paint, but I like the galvanized, it won't chip or rub off as easily.
I changed the design of my wiring and air input/output. Before, I had some on the side, some on the front, it was just a mess. Then I came across this perfect piece of channel and I got inspired. Drilled holes for through cables for power and controls and added some NPT female/female ******* for air connections. The air is to run from the compressor's 95 psi down to 10 psi for the lathe (blowing chips, mist coolant).
I also added a 220V DPST switch for mainline power. Here's the "process" to mount it. All you need is a drill, cut-off wheel and file.
Find the center of the metal, and measure the length of hole you need to cut. Subtract out the diameter of the drill bit you are about to use in the pic below.
The next step would be easy with a rotary file, but I don't have one. Instead, fire up the cut-off wheel and plunge cut from the back side.
Then, take a file and blend everything together.
Next, clamp the switch where you want it from the back side. Use some transfer punches, a marker, or whatever to mark the location of the mounting holes. Drill and go!
Weld in your part and revel in the awesome piece of scrap you found.
Primed with brush on Rustoleum.
Motor/VFD test is a go! Terrible, terrible high frequency whine coming from the motor. Apparently it's a pass through of the frequency modulation of the VFD that causes vibrations in the windings.... If anyone knows a fix, I'd love to know.
Last but not least I got the stand painted and the box dropped in.
Excited to finally be making tangible progress that isn't just ordering parts..
Thanks for reading.
"Control Panel" wiring getting started.
Final product for testing. Still need an overlay for markings, maybe some paint, but I like the galvanized, it won't chip or rub off as easily.
I changed the design of my wiring and air input/output. Before, I had some on the side, some on the front, it was just a mess. Then I came across this perfect piece of channel and I got inspired. Drilled holes for through cables for power and controls and added some NPT female/female ******* for air connections. The air is to run from the compressor's 95 psi down to 10 psi for the lathe (blowing chips, mist coolant).
I also added a 220V DPST switch for mainline power. Here's the "process" to mount it. All you need is a drill, cut-off wheel and file.
Find the center of the metal, and measure the length of hole you need to cut. Subtract out the diameter of the drill bit you are about to use in the pic below.
The next step would be easy with a rotary file, but I don't have one. Instead, fire up the cut-off wheel and plunge cut from the back side.
Then, take a file and blend everything together.
Next, clamp the switch where you want it from the back side. Use some transfer punches, a marker, or whatever to mark the location of the mounting holes. Drill and go!
Weld in your part and revel in the awesome piece of scrap you found.
Primed with brush on Rustoleum.
Motor/VFD test is a go! Terrible, terrible high frequency whine coming from the motor. Apparently it's a pass through of the frequency modulation of the VFD that causes vibrations in the windings.... If anyone knows a fix, I'd love to know.
Last but not least I got the stand painted and the box dropped in.
Excited to finally be making tangible progress that isn't just ordering parts..
Thanks for reading.
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Stuart in MN
Well-known member
Look in the operator's manual for the VFD and see if there's a way to adjust the carrier frequency - that will often take care of the whine.
edited to add: I took a quick look at the operator's manual online, and you can adjust the carrier frequency - look at page 42.
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OP
aggierailroad
Well-known member
Thanks! We were looking at that at work as well, looks like this is a well known "problem" of VFDs.
I'd like to do a full out motor control test tonight and see where we get... Are you familiar with these TECO units? I do have a nagging question about the E-stop function.
I'd like to do a full out motor control test tonight and see where we get... Are you familiar with these TECO units? I do have a nagging question about the E-stop function.
Stuart in MN
Well-known member
I'm not very familiar with Teco VFDs - I'm an engineer at a consulting firm and we normally spec other brands (Allen-Bradley, ABB, etc.); Teco doesn't show up too much in our line of work. I assume there's an E-stop input available but you'll have to study the manual.
Motor whine is a potential issue with most any brand of drive, and it's hard to predict. You could have ten identical VFDs with ten identical motors, and one or two of them will be noisy and the rest will be quiet.
Motor whine is a potential issue with most any brand of drive, and it's hard to predict. You could have ten identical VFDs with ten identical motors, and one or two of them will be noisy and the rest will be quiet.
OP
aggierailroad
Well-known member
I'm with you, we always use the Allen Bradleys or similar.
OP
aggierailroad
Well-known member
Some pics from the Miller Welds lab here in Houston and some work on the lathe stand.
This is a semi automated pipe welder that uses Miller's PipeWorx 400 machine.
Solid core, seamless wire:
Really nice sub arc:
PipeWorx machine:
Fill pass:
Part of the cap:
Now the boring stuff... cleaned the motor mount brackets. This is a before shot.
Cut and glued the plywood top. I'll take a flush trim router bit and run it around the frame to get a tight fit. This will be followed by a trip cap of maybe poplar or similar.
I put the cup of the plywood (the high parts) in the middle, touching, then clamped the edges. This helped to clamp the center, with the addition of a few screws.
Added a handle to the remote control box.
Also, not show, I soldered the potentiometer up. It's the only hard connection, which I don't like, but it had solder terminals only.
Motor wiring, 14/3 SO power wire.
Maple, the new DIN rail. I used a spray on gloss lacquer. I'm not a pro panel builder, but this layout is simple and looks nice to me.
Installed. I had to lower the panel in case the drive belt broke for some reason, and the tensioner broke which would cause the whole thing to crash into the vfd. Lot of "ifs" but better safe than sorry.
Better shot with the DPST switch for main 220V coming in to the lathe. Notice the old 5L-440 Vee belt hanging there. It's a bit too big since I had to slide the motor forward for clearance.
On short notice last night, I could only find a 1/2 22.5" cog belt. I wanted the cog style anyways due to the large pulley diameter differences to aid in bending. I don't think I'll have slip issues, but time will tell. At $3, not a big loss.
Also go the right angle oil cups installed. Forgot to take a picture, but they work great. Use the South Bend "B" oil for the countershaft.
That's it. I tuned some of the high-pitched whine out by adjusting the carrier frequency, but it's not all gone. I think some insulation on the panels will help mute the rest.
This is a semi automated pipe welder that uses Miller's PipeWorx 400 machine.
Solid core, seamless wire:
Really nice sub arc:
PipeWorx machine:
Fill pass:
Part of the cap:
Now the boring stuff... cleaned the motor mount brackets. This is a before shot.
Cut and glued the plywood top. I'll take a flush trim router bit and run it around the frame to get a tight fit. This will be followed by a trip cap of maybe poplar or similar.
I put the cup of the plywood (the high parts) in the middle, touching, then clamped the edges. This helped to clamp the center, with the addition of a few screws.
Added a handle to the remote control box.
Also, not show, I soldered the potentiometer up. It's the only hard connection, which I don't like, but it had solder terminals only.
Motor wiring, 14/3 SO power wire.
Maple, the new DIN rail. I used a spray on gloss lacquer. I'm not a pro panel builder, but this layout is simple and looks nice to me.
Installed. I had to lower the panel in case the drive belt broke for some reason, and the tensioner broke which would cause the whole thing to crash into the vfd. Lot of "ifs" but better safe than sorry.
Better shot with the DPST switch for main 220V coming in to the lathe. Notice the old 5L-440 Vee belt hanging there. It's a bit too big since I had to slide the motor forward for clearance.
On short notice last night, I could only find a 1/2 22.5" cog belt. I wanted the cog style anyways due to the large pulley diameter differences to aid in bending. I don't think I'll have slip issues, but time will tell. At $3, not a big loss.
Also go the right angle oil cups installed. Forgot to take a picture, but they work great. Use the South Bend "B" oil for the countershaft.
That's it. I tuned some of the high-pitched whine out by adjusting the carrier frequency, but it's not all gone. I think some insulation on the panels will help mute the rest.
OP
aggierailroad
Well-known member
Also, my single greatest contribution to the internet, a wiring diagram and parameter list of what I changed. Why is this special? Because the manual from Teco isn't the most clear, labels things funnily for us non-controls types and this shows you how to have jog and E-stop functions.
I'll take any help to make corrections, I'm no CAD guy. It's also important to note that the red line coming into the FWD/OFF/REV switch is jumpered to the other NO-4 terminal. There is some intuition involved in reading this schematics, which *****, but I don't know of another way to draw it. Another crazy feature of the jog, is the way the VFD reads jog speeds. You have to have a direction selected first, then it will try to read SP0 (I think) until the jog is engaged, then it reads F_09 (6 Hz). So, to not kill yourself, turn the speed down with the potentiometer, click a direction, then hit jog, and it will jog around nicely.
E-stop is a latching, twist to disengage NO unit. You have to "reset" the VFD to get out of an E-stop situation. This is done by moving the direction selector back to "off".
Again, this is how I ran my TECO FM50 VFD, do what you want, you don't need all of this, I just wanted the remote controls.
I'll take any help to make corrections, I'm no CAD guy. It's also important to note that the red line coming into the FWD/OFF/REV switch is jumpered to the other NO-4 terminal. There is some intuition involved in reading this schematics, which *****, but I don't know of another way to draw it. Another crazy feature of the jog, is the way the VFD reads jog speeds. You have to have a direction selected first, then it will try to read SP0 (I think) until the jog is engaged, then it reads F_09 (6 Hz). So, to not kill yourself, turn the speed down with the potentiometer, click a direction, then hit jog, and it will jog around nicely.
E-stop is a latching, twist to disengage NO unit. You have to "reset" the VFD to get out of an E-stop situation. This is done by moving the direction selector back to "off".
Again, this is how I ran my TECO FM50 VFD, do what you want, you don't need all of this, I just wanted the remote controls.
Attachments
OP
aggierailroad
Well-known member
Got some work done this weekend. Top got cut out, routed and fit, also cut out all of the clearance holes for the belt and mounting bolts. After that I ran the air lines and made a shelf for the bottom to store lube and whatnot on.
I took a flush router bit and trimmed the top to fit. It scarred the paint a little where the bearing rubbed, but it will get covered in trim.
Layout the holes. Drill all the corners with a 1/2" bit and to allow access for the jigsaw. I cut the one side on an angle for belt clearance.
Pro tip: I used a hand bit and brace to drill these holes. When the drill pokes through - stop! Turn the piece over and drill from the back to avoid tearout. If you goof and go all the way through like the top hole, you get some tearing. If you do it right (bottom hole) you get a nice clean hole.
Hole cut.
Finally got the regulator in, after some choice words... Stainless fittings are left over from another project.
DIY tubing straightener. It works...
Here's the start of a simple shelf- some 18ga, shears, a scribe and ruler.
Also... a bead roller helps.
Used this bad-boy to punch some holes for the screws. I used self tapping, but this helps with alignment.
Squirt some paint on it, and bob's your uncle.
Bugs the **** out of me that the one line isn't straight... That's what happens when it's been over a year since you've bent tube and weren't good at it to start with.
I took a flush router bit and trimmed the top to fit. It scarred the paint a little where the bearing rubbed, but it will get covered in trim.
Layout the holes. Drill all the corners with a 1/2" bit and to allow access for the jigsaw. I cut the one side on an angle for belt clearance.
Pro tip: I used a hand bit and brace to drill these holes. When the drill pokes through - stop! Turn the piece over and drill from the back to avoid tearout. If you goof and go all the way through like the top hole, you get some tearing. If you do it right (bottom hole) you get a nice clean hole.
Hole cut.
Finally got the regulator in, after some choice words... Stainless fittings are left over from another project.
DIY tubing straightener. It works...
Here's the start of a simple shelf- some 18ga, shears, a scribe and ruler.
Also... a bead roller helps.
Used this bad-boy to punch some holes for the screws. I used self tapping, but this helps with alignment.
Squirt some paint on it, and bob's your uncle.
Bugs the **** out of me that the one line isn't straight... That's what happens when it's been over a year since you've bent tube and weren't good at it to start with.