Black or Copper pipe for Air Compresor

[68 sat]

I am about to run pipe for my air compressor in my new garage. The walls are still in rough (2 x 4) so I want to have the pipe behind the sheetrock. Can I run either copper or black steel pipe? Also what size do you recommend?

 

[AJ1978]

There are a lot of great and in-depth posts on here on this specific topic.
First of all, what are your air requirements going to be?
Single or 2 stage compressor
Heavy or light useage
Climate that you are in?
Copper if done right, and properly installed will last a long time.
Black Iron again depending on your access to threaders, fittings etc is also great.
Just remember to take your Drops from the top of the pipe, and always leave a leg at the bottom for any moisture or sediment.
On my system I use Black Iron, below each outlet, I have a 4" leg for a drop with a CAP. Once or twice a year I will bleed down, and clean out. After the initial installation you should do more often, then twice a year is fine afterwards.

 

[Falcon67]

Only PVC

Well, somebody will say it


1/2" is plenty big. Copper would be easier behind sheetrock IMHO. I prefer iron and would not hide it in the wall.

 

[68 sat]

I am hooking it up to this. Its I believe a single stage roughly 60 gallon compressor. I am a hobbyist that will be wrenching on old cars and filling up bicycle tires and pool toys. Nothing too crazy but I will be running enough pipe to cover a two car garage with approximately 4-5 connections. Located in Northern NJ

 

[Falcon67]

I have about 120' of 1/2 iron, 60 gallon upright, 5 drops. I've got plenty of air for HVLP or siphon gun painting, running air tools, sand blast, etc.

 

[fsae0607]

I have a mix of black iron and galvanized. On each drop, I run a filter before the regulator, so rust/galvanized flakes aren't an issue.

 

[Heel2toe]

Nice looking compressor you have there. Its a two stage unit which should flow a good amount of CFMs. As stated prior there are numerous threads on this topic talking about pros and cons of each. Black iron may be slightly cheaper than copper but were not talking a significant different given a modest garage setup so I would go with whatever you are most comfortable installing.

I choose to use a combination of 3/4" copper as well as the 3/4" Rapidaire Maxline air compressor kit and and quite pleased with the results. I went back and forth trying to determine the appropriate material and its comes down to preference. For me I dont have pipe threading tools so I decided I'd prefer simply cutting copper and sweating the joints.

So my vote is copper for simplicity sake but maybe you'll prefer black iron for the same reason.

The only other thing I wanna mention is while putting the lines in the wall seems like a good idea now since the studs are open I think youll regret that down the road when you spring a leak or would like to expand on your system.

 

[housedad]

I have a mix of black iron and galvanized. On each drop, I run a filter before the regulator, so rust/galvanized flakes aren't an issue.

Now that is a good argument for copper. I ran copper for my garage. No rust, no flakes, no ALGAE.

Algae forms in plastic AND iron lines, and you have rust in iron lines.

For some reason people think that since iron is used successfully in natural gas lines, it would be good for compressed air. However, there is one major difference. Natural gas lines have hardly any water in them. Near zero. Compressed air lines are chock full of water. Water and oxygen makes Iron rust and even faster under compression.

Copper is the preferred water line. Think of the compressed air line as a water line as it has standing and vaporized water in it at all times

 

[K13]

I used copper in my garage for the same reason Heal2toe stated it was much easier for me to install. I have the tools to install copper and don't for black pipe.

 

[planters49]

I used PEX pipe through out my shop. I have open walls too.

 

[stonesfan68]

Go with aluminum.

 

[matt_i]

Personally I think its madness for anyone to put airlines inside a wall, unless its a massive distribution system with a large number of taps on all walls. Reason: you are locked, forevermore into that layout without ripping out drywall and insulation, inside a filled shop. Needs can change over time, and so must the layout. A surface mounted setup is obviously easier to change. Also, if I decide to move, I am not leaving a pile of expensive copper pipe behind. Its going with me to my next shop so I don't have to fork out the cash twice.

If I failed to convince you, and you are set on internal, the problem with black iron pipe is that its dirty and can get on the finished drywall as you detail the system (remove caps, and install hose reels, FR units, etc after the drywall is hung), the problem with copper is a hot torch next to finished wall. Both are possible to overcome but its also good to be thinking of as many end-details you can put in place before the drywall is hung. I would put a ball valve on each tap because I haven't met a QC yet that doesn't leak slowly over time.

1/2" dia is probably good enough for most needs. 3/4" if you intend on servicing medium duty trucks or running something like a blast cabinet faraway from the compressor.

 

[CompressorPros.com]

Copper used to be way more popular when it was much cheaper. If you can afford to go with copper, it definitely is better.

 

[Falcon67]

If you hit the the Powerball, go for Inconel tube. Lol.

 

[68 sat]

it is an airstream deluxe built in 1964. Model # NR-150 46 I...To be honest I have a good friend who is a major collector of all things automotive. He has two amazing compressors in his shop and I have been searching Craigslist for a few months for one. He helped me with the purchase. It came out of a bicycle repair shop about 45 minutes from my house. It is in amazing condition. Practically brand new. I am amassing a few vintage items for my new garage build and this was tops on my list. After reading a few of these posts I might scratch the idea of running the pipe in the walls. I am having it done professionally by a plumber but now I'm on the fence.

 

[CNGsaves]

OP . . . . nice compressor. Looks like one of your pics show concrete block wall ?? Any airlines on that wall planned??

For copper in-wall . . . . check prior thread of Tim The Toolman as his is nice.

GJ Advanced Search . . . . . copper airline

 

[southalabama]

I'd go copper but I'm with the crowd who wouldn't put it in the wall.

 

[nadogail]

Don't laugh, but I have 3/8" air hose snaked through the ceiling joists.

When I get some time on my hands and cash burning a hole in my pocket, I may
install metal pipe.

Hoses work fine for the moment.

 

[Falcon67]

Lol, i have two routes through the attic that are 1/2 goodyear hose to the iron drops. Works.

 

[reddog289]

While in my old garage, I was going to use black pipe. I bought the fittings, valves etc cheap at a going out of business sale. Yet, my Mom who bought a bunch of copper tubes for some crafty deal wants them gone. I think I have to flip the coin on this one.

 

[Pwrgeek]

If I was going to bury it behind Sheetrock then I'd go copper (or Maxline). I know black iron is fine as long as you take care of it and get the water out but with it buried in the walls I'd worry about water gathering somewhere unforeseen and rusting through.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ovrrdrive]

If I was putting it in the wall as far as I'm concerned the only viable choice would be copper. Make sure you have several drops to drain the moisture out before your outlets and you should be fine. Assuming you know how to sweat copper pipes that is. lol

 

[NUTTSGT]

I replaced my PVC lines with black pipe. I am much happier now and put them on the wall not in it.

 

[CJ7VFR]

Personally I think its madness for anyone to put airlines inside a wall......Reason: you are locked, forevermore into that layout without ripping out drywall and insulation, inside a filled shop. Needs can change over time, and so must the layout. A surface mounted setup is obviously easier to change. Also, if I decide to move, I am not leaving a pile of expensive copper pipe behind. Its going with me to my next shop so I don't have to fork out the cash twice....

I agree with this 100 percent.

You are putting this in the garage not the house. If you put it inside the walls then if you ever want to make a change, have an air leak, or decide that you want to add another drop somewhere else, you will have to destroy the walls and then fix them again adding even more expense.

If you install the air line on the outside of the walls, you can lay it all out and place it where you think you will need it BEFORE you permanently make all the connections. You can tweak it, and change it, and shape it to fit your needs and place the drops and air lines exactly where you want them. And if you ever decide that you want another drop somewhere else, cutting the line and adding in another is easy. If it was inside the wall, forget it.

Also, there is no law that says you can't paint the air line when its done. You could paint it to match the color of the walls and it would basically blend right in.

Plus, I think seeing the air lines makes a garage look good. It says hey, I work in here, and this is a real shop!

Just my .02

Jim

 

[sberry]

I agree about putting this in walls and 4 or 5 connections is kind of a wag for 2 you will really use. Pipe on surface to a regulator and a reel or 2, even fixed whip.

 

[stimpy]

as long as you do not have hungry critters in the walls , try Dot approved air line for trucks , it comes in 100 or 250 foot rolls and different sizes and it uses either snap lock or compression fittings and is flexible . and very durable and will not rust . and its also pressure rated ( our systems run at 120-150 psi ) and is cost is cheap . have to think of the enviurment they put the air lines thru on a semi as they are exposed to the elements and get bounced around so they are made tough .

 

[boomer12831]

What is the color of airlines (if they are painted) when used in an industrial setting ?

 

[600SL]

I am hooking it up to this. Its I believe a single stage roughly 60 gallon compressor. I am a hobbyist that will be wrenching on old cars and filling up bicycle tires and pool toys. Nothing too crazy but I will be running enough pipe to cover a two car garage with approximately 4-5 connections. Located in Northern NJ

That is definitely 2 stage and a good one at that.

 

[matt_i]

I am not sure if its a universal industrial standard, but airlines have been baby blue in all the manufacturing plants I've worked in.

 

[stimpy]

I am not sure if its a universal industrial standard, but airlines have been baby blue in all the manufacturing plants I've worked in.

yes its blue and it has to be labeled with white letters on it of the non flammable gas it contains ( nitrogen , agon , ect ect )

Osha has a section on this ...

 

[JerryC]

No worries over forgetting where the air lines are run inside the wall and driving a nail/screw into them?

 

[NewShockerGuy]

So this has me thinking of making a small line to the rear of my garage.. I have a 50' hose but it does get quite annoying to slide it across the floor when I could have another drop and just plug into it.

I want to go with copper just because I feel it's nicer. What are the recommendations on securing it to the wall? Are there specific clamps that one has to use and how does one attach it? Simply attaching to dry wall or put a piece of wood on the dry wall then attach the clamp to the wood?

I really like the painting idea mentioned above, that would be perfect stealth look and blend perfectly!


Thanks,
-Nigel

 

[matt_i]

Always have mounted copper pipes with 2 hole strap clamps (think they are copper plated steel and not solid copper) to prevent galvanic corrosion of the pipe. Wood is not out of the question, there are also copper plated loop hangers to go from overhead ala sprinkler lines. Strut channel is also appropriate if you are feeling industrial. If you are feeling super budget minded, some cable staples could probably be used (not).

 

[stimpy]

I always used the copper strap clamps they sell at the store , I buy them in bulk 25 packs as you will find needs around the house if you have copper plumbing ( and you find they are cheaper in bulk ) . and I secure them with a 1 5/8 drywall screw as it has to hold some weight and you want a good anchor .

 

[68 sat]

Met with the plumber yesterday. We are going to wait until Sheetrock is up and run either pipe or copper then. Makes more sense that way.

 

[R-Savage]

I'm currently planning an air compressor system in my garage. I will be using copper. 1 inch for my main lines 1/2 inch for secondary lines. Drain line will be one inch. Copper and brass all the way.

 

[KenC]

Choice is yours but I'd run copper. Have tools for both but copper is easier, faster and I think it looks better.

Also vote for no inside wall air. But I haven't put mine on the wall either, well some of it but most is ceiling mounted.

Just seems that a short hose connected at 7' or so overhead, near the work is much more convenient than stringing several feet of hose across the shop. I picked up a couple or urethane coil hoses that work well. They're not the normal nylon, they are much more flexible and easier to extend.

Drop from the ceiling far enough to reach comfortably, insert a tee and quick connect off the side using an ell so the connector is vertical. and add a drip leg below.

If you wish, you can add a drain valve to the drip leg instead of just a cap.

cut and prep all the connections, stick it all together, recheck your layout then sweat all the fittings at once. I wouldn't permanently fasten to the wall/ceiling until it's all sweated. that way you can pull the section your working on away from the sheetrock as you work your way around sweating it.

 

[68 sat]

Great advise for the copper layout. Can you provide a few pics of your setup and coil hose. Thanks.