Black pipe for ac question

[jproaster]

So in checking out the black pipe for my air comp system at Lowes yesterday...:

1. With the many pipe and fitting choices, is it possible to avoid having to do any custom cuts or threading?

2. And I should be able to assemble the drops to abrasive cabinet and to rubber hose with their respective accessories (regulators, water filters, etc.) before joining them to the main piping with use of union fittings?


Thanks for helping with the 101 questions.
John

 

[dusterdude]

I used pvc,super easy

Sent from my R1 HD using Tapatalk

 

[Hot Rod Grampa]

#1. Maybe. If you start in a corner and do what you have to with stock lengths and do drops where they will be close but not exactly. So your drop to the blast cabinet may be off a foot. If you can live with that you should be ok.
#2. Yes. Be sure to support the piping and accessories with metal straps. Also remember to slope the long horizontal runs so any accumulated moisture can drain. Don't forget to use a good flexible hose between compressor and metal piping. Please use only quality valves and accessories meant for air lines. The savings in buying junk are not worth the potential dangers.
Good luck

 

[sberry]

Yes, you can make it from stock stuff. They have a lot of short pieces. No sin in adding a coupling or 2 to get it something the right length. I do it on occasion instead of making fittings.
This section was all fit on the floor before hanging. Even pressure tested it there.

 

[chaosracing]

They cut and thread pipe for free at Lowes, but you should be able to do most of what you want in stock length and fittings.

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

I used pvc,super easy

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Here we go...

 

[larry4406]

Here we go...

Don’t feed the trolls.

 

[ace10]

I'd wager that if you have enough runs, renting a pipe threading machine and buying full lengths would be cheaper and easier than trying to buy the "right" sizes accompanied by the inevitable runs back to the pipe-getting-place.

When I was a kid, I ran a pipe machine. I don't recall it being too difficult.

For example... HD is showing 3/4 x 2' sections at $11 per while a full 10 footer is under $20. That will add up in a hurry.

 

[jproaster]

Thank you guys.
Gonna map out my route tomorrow.

John

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

Personally, I think you should consider copper instead.
#1, it's lighter to work with.
#2, It is a great conductor of heat, so it aids in eliminating condensation as long as you have your drops and drains set-up correctly.
#3 It doesn't rust, so your air will be cleaner.
#4 It looks better.
#5 Quicker to install.

Drawback: More costly.

 

[DieselNut88]

I would also use copper. It is much easier to work with and will not rust from moisture. If you use black pipe i would buy full sticks and rent a threader. It will be cheaper.

 

[PassnThru]

I used pvc,super easy

Sent from my R1 HD using Tapatalk

You must not have bought your PVC at Lowes then - they had an entire inventory of pipe when I went there that completely bypassed the machine that cuts the threads. I had to cut threads on every piece of pipe to get everything joined together.

 

[GrayFlattop]

I used black iron pipe in my garage / shop 25+ years ago. If I had to do it over again, I would use type L copper. The installation will be faster and no rust in the lines.

 

[jproaster]

Ok. I feel like a waffler. I've gone from bpipe to copp to bpipe to considering copper again. I know both work- many good testimonies. I know that Lowes has the type L pipe too. I suppose I could get a map gas kit and learn to solder easy enough.

To be honest, if it's easier to solder copper, I'll go with the extra cost. I certainly don't bleed green; but this has been an exhausting year.

Gonna ponder the switch over night; I commit tomorrow.

Thanks
John

 

[Tinkerman66]

I used black iron pipe in my garage / shop 25+ years ago. If I had to do it over again, I would use type L copper. The installation will be faster and no rust in the lines.

No rust in my pvc lines for 20 years.

 

[Chris705]

John - sweating copper is very easy, we can walk you thru it if you decide to go that way.

 

[chaosracing]

Why not look into the PEX air line systems? Thats very easy to install, cheap and wont rust or corrode (copper corrodes over time)

 

[GrayFlattop]

No rust in my pvc lines for 20 years.

Because they blew up?

 

[plinker]

Why not look into the PEX air line systems? Thats very easy to install, cheap and wont rust or corrode (copper corrodes over time)

At work they ran 3/4 pex for the airlines, works ok. It does seem like there is more water in the lines then I'm used to seeing with black pipe, so point of use filters are a must.

I had thought of using 5/8 air brake nylon line myself, if I get a shop put up.

 

[Tinkerman66]

Because they blew up?

Nope. Working perfectly fine and used on a daily basis. No leaks either.

 

[RAYJAY]

So in checking out the black pipe for my air comp system at Lowes yesterday...:

1. With the many pipe and fitting choices, is it possible to avoid having to do any custom cuts or threading?

2. And I should be able to assemble the drops to abrasive cabinet and to rubber hose with their respective accessories (regulators, water filters, etc.) before joining them to the main piping with use of union fittings?


Thanks for helping with the 101 questions.
John

check out supply house i buy all of my pluming supply from them there black pipe fitting prices are really good. they have USA made and import fittings

https://www.supplyhouse.com

also try these 2 links for pipe layout

https://cached.tptools.com/Images/airline-piping-diagram.pdf

https://www.tptools.com/tech-metal-piping.dlp

 

[matt_i]

The copper is easiest. You don't need the thick walled stuff. If you look up the pressure rating even for the thinwall, there is plenty of spare capacity. I would recommend the Stay Brite #8 solder and Stay Clean flux to make the job go so much easier. Be very mindful of setting stuff on fire with the torch. Protect wood with wet rags and keep a 10# extinguisher in the work area.

If not, the pipe threading machine can be run by a chimp. I wouldn't try to make it all up from stocked parts, there will be a bunch of couplings, the more you get the easier it is to have a leak. And then you get 50 feet of pipe hung and realize you wanted a drop. Now you have the choice to disassemble it all or sawzall out the middle, thread the two pieces being mindful so a union will makeup with all the fittings tight.

 

[rattle_snake]

For #2,
Run the main line, drops and pressure test the piping system. Then add the regulators, filter, and what not.

I used uni strut to secure pipes. No unions needed.

 

[sberry]

For #2,
Run the main line, drops and pressure test the piping system. Then add the regulators, filter, and what not.

I used uni strut to secure pipes. No unions needed.

A couple of mine resemple that but the hose real and fixed whips are screwed to the fil/reg. The only quick connect is at the business end of the hose. This one is so high and try that it doesn't even have a drip leg.
I have another has a T after reg, feeds a couple drops and a couple reels. Pic 2 was the original and 3 shows a new pipe dropping in to the reg which would act as a drip leg should any water show up.
My mechanic had plumbed the short blue hose on for a blow gun, I havnt used it since. Could be removed.