Black pipe propane line installation question

[putter]

I'm ready to hook the propane line up to my new Hot Dawg HS100. Can I run the black pipe inside the interior wall or does it have to be put in after the drywall is hung. I want to come though the outside wall, go up along a stud and then run it along a truss, then down to the heater. Does that sound like the way to do it. Thanks PUTTER

 

[sixty4]

Absolutely you can run black pipe through your wall studs. I would try to avoid going up and dropping down. Will it work yes. I would also pressure test the line to local codes and honestly have it inspected. Most towns and Citys will allow you to pull a home owners permit for this type of work. Very important get the permit because should something god forbid happen, your home owners insurance will be a nightmare! There is also products called Trac-pipe and Wardflex that can save cutting and threading, again you need a Certification to purchase this. So if you know of a Plumber or Hvac guy maybe they can help out. This is just my 2 cents. I have cleaned up alot of nightmares that others have tried to install themselves. I don't mean to imply that you don't have the skills but sometimes it just is easier to farm this stuff out?
Sixty4...

 

[larry4406]

Black pipe in wall is good. Make sure on the heater end in the direction of flow you have a shutoff valve, a union, a drip leg and then the connection to the unit. If using a flex connection, check the heater's directions as some equipment prohibits a flex product within the unit's interior. The wardflex and trac pipe is an option and can also be installed behind drywall. It's sale is restricted to licensed plumbers due to training issues so I am told. Although the 150 plus houses I built had wardflex and trac pipe, I hate the stuff. Although fast to install, I have had too many problems with it in production homes. Trim nails readily puncture it, excessive twist during fitting tightening damages the corrugations resulting in leaks, etc. I know those issues can be traced to poor install/technique, but I would stay away from it personnally, your mileage may vary.

 

[tigmusky]

these guys above some it up good! soft copper can be a option. daye

 

[GearHd6]

I used the Trac Pipe inside my garage walls with no issues at all. I actually bought it off Ebay by the foot. I installed nail plates where the line passed through every stud. I then had the gas company do a pressure test, my towns building inspector inspected the pressure reading and then the gas company came and did the final tie in to the heater and propane tank. It was all pretty easy.

 

[riskyvt]

I used the Trac Pipe inside my garage walls with no issues at all. I actually bought it off Ebay by the foot. I installed nail plates where the line passed through every stud. I then had the gas company do a pressure test, my towns building inspector inspected the pressure reading and then the gas company came and did the final tie in to the heater and propane tank. It was all pretty easy.

I second this approach! My propane guy used TracPipe, which is also known as CSST (Corregated Stainless Steel Tubing) and has a yellow vinyl coating over it. Because of the flexibility of the tubing, it was easily installed into holes drilled into the stud wall of my shop, about 18" below the top. Protective nail plates are installed to prevent damage to the tubing during sheetrock or wall covering phase. The ends of this tubing are easily converted over to black iron pipe using fittings that are sweated on. BIP was used in my application for the in-coming line from the tanks, and again where the CSST comes out thru the wall at each heater for the required drip-loops. Ask yourself how you would install BIP inside a stud wall? The CSST was flexible and easily bends to allow installation.

Here's a few pictures, before my sheetrock went up:

 

[larry4406]

Metal piping is quite easily installed in walls perpendicular to the studs - you drill a hole through the exterior sheathing and slide it through the holes drilled in the studs. Plumbers do this all the time for gas lines, waste & vent, supplies, etc., whenever they run perpendicular to the framing members.

What I don't like about CSST is that it "dangles" in stud bays and can come in contact with the back side of the sheet rock. Shoot a nail through the drywall when applying trim, etc, and it will puncture the CSST. Been there - trim nail for chair rail in a dining room was not into a stud, CSST was dangling on the back side of the drywall, whola, small gas leak which was a PITA to find and fix. Wouldn't happen with black pipe.

 

[dipper]

When I run gas line for my heater (either PE gasflex or CSST) i'm going to run it through the ceiling joists which are 2x10 to avoid any hits with nails/screws etc. I'm going to have a drop ceiling so it will always be accessible to inspect from below.

 

[OldCarGuy]

Before I installed the insulation, wiring, 5/8” drywall, and aluminum siding in three of my garages. I ran both natural gas and compressed air lines in 3/4” and 1/ 2” black pipe through the 2” x 6” studded walls. I just laid out and drilled the holes then slid pipe as long as 20’ in place. I ran the main runs of 1” airlines above the ceiling joist then tee’d off into 6” risers before returning down walls. All lines were leak tested before finishing…

I have always enjoyed plumbing with black pipe. And own pipe dies from 1/ 4” to 2” NPT and a power threader…