Black wrench rust removal

[BFBOB]

I have several black finished wrenches that have a few small rust spots. It's nothing functional, but I'd like to remove it just for the sake of appearance. However, I don't want to damage the black finish!
I usually use electrolysis, following up with a hydrochloric acid bath if necessary to get the deep recesses.
I'd just give it a try-and-see, but all the wrenches in question are good ones - Williams, Snap-On, Armstrong.

Anyone know how the black finish is achieved at the factory? I've used gun blue on some punches and chisels (idiot simple) but I don't think it would look right on a 7/8" combo!

Thanks

 

[daddy2coull]

I just spin mine over a wire wheel and spray some wd40 over them and it lasts for ages.

 

[BFBOB]

I just spin mine over a wire wheel and spray some wd40 over them and it lasts for ages.

And that doesn't remove the black finish?

Is the factory finish Parkerizing? I just read up on that, and it's quite easy to do, though hazardous- boiling nitric acid, etc.

 

[BJ42LX]

Evaporust leaves a tough, black residue on many types of steel. Evaporust recommends you brush this off when removing from the solution. However, if you let it dry it's reasonably permanent.

Buy a small bottle and run an experiment - see if it meets your needs.

 

[SMKS]

Don't use Evaporust.

I really like Evaporust. It works great and isn't acidic. But, Evaporust removes oxide finishes completely.

I learned that lesson the hard way on a black SK wrench. It came out with no finish whatsoever. It's now just plain steel.

How Evapo-rust affects coatings

EVAPO-RUST is highly recommended by the NRA gunsmithing school and is utilized by FBI, CIA, NATO and other law enforcement and forensics agencies. EVAPO-RUST is perfect for removing oxide weapon finishes such as Bluing, Parkerizing, Zinc Phosphate, and Browning.

Anodizing, Cobalt Tungsten Carbide, Powder Coating, Chrome, Nickel, Paint, and most other coatings will not be removed as long as they do not contain oxides. EVAPO-RUST will not harm lead or solder points.

 

[BJ42LX]

Don't use Evaporust.

I really like Evaporust. It works great and isn't acidic. But, Evaporust removes oxide finishes completely.

I learned that lesson the hard way on a black SK wrench. It came out with no finish whatsoever. It's now just plain steel.

Yeah, that's why I told him to experiment first!

There seems to be a parallel thread going here. Check t4runner's post # 79. He was able to create the black finish I'm talking about.

http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3614544#post3614544

 

[HDMac07]

I've had good luck with a couple gun care products on black tools, CLP and Flitz are the two that I've used most.

 

[BFBOB]

I'm not much of an Evaporust fan. It works fairly well, but very slowly and is expensive. It seems any acid will work. Evaporust and molasses are Phosphoric, vinegar is acetic, hell, orange juice is citric! For my acid I use hydrochloric. Cheap, available very strong, works quickly. And I'm sure anything Evaporust will take off, so will any acid. Its strongest selling point is it's safe to handle - certainly not true of 30% hydrochloric!

Thanks, HDMac07 - I'll look into the gun care products. Maybe there's a blacking that works quick and cold like bluing.

 

[SMKS]

Evaporust is not acidic. It works though a different process.

 

[BJ42LX]

For my acid I use hydrochloric. Cheap, available very strong, works quickly. ... certainly not true of 30% hydrochloric!

30% Holy ****! That must eat through stuff like crazy. I use 20% from time to time and I can see the mist coming off the surface of the workpiece in the sunlight. A wiff of that will set me coughing for 5 minutes. Be careful with that.

Evaporust is not acidic. It works though a different process.

Chelation.

 

[hayhauler71]

I soak rusted impact sockets in trans fluid for 24 hrs and look great and is cheep

 

[Adam.C]

I restored the finish of some craftsman impacts using Brownells Oxpho blue cream. The trick I use is to apply the cream with a q-tip, then heat the finish/part gently over a candle. The candle's flame helps produce a beautiful black but does not disturb the temper whatsoever. I think all the "cold blue" touch ups make steel black and respond favorably to slight heating.

 

[Farmall450]

Don't use Evaporust.

I really like Evaporust. It works great and isn't acidic. But, Evaporust removes oxide finishes completely.

I learned that lesson the hard way on a black SK wrench. It came out with no finish whatsoever. It's now just plain steel.

Then could I use these on chrome cman adjustables w/out harming the finish?

I hope to purchase these, and love this style...

Sorry to hijack your thread OP, but I'm having similar issues...

 

[SMKS]

Then could I use these on chrome cman adjustables w/out harming the finish?

I hope to purchase these, and love this style...

Sorry to hijack your thread OP, but I'm having similar issues...

Yes, chrome is not an oxide finish.

Evaporust is much easier on finishes (except oxides, of course) than acidic rust removers, from my experience.

 

[Farmall450]

Yes, chrome is not an oxide finish.

Evaporust is much easier on finishes (except oxides, of course) than acidic rust removers, from my experience.

So what will happen to the rusty spots?

Seeing as there isn't chrome underneath..?

 

[BJ42LX]

So what will happen to the rusty spots?

Seeing as there isn't chrome underneath..?

You will see bare metal inside a poc-mark in the chrome. Sometimes the metal turns black so you'll see a black poc-mark. Many times the chrome itself is rusty and, of course, when the rust is gone it looks real good again.

IMO Evaporust is best for chrome tools with light to moderate rust.

 

[ZRX61]

You could use the old engine oil/blow torch blackening method (even new oil if ya like).

I've used it on a bunch if vintage wrenches, they look just ****.

 

[Mickey O]

I use WD-40 and a brass brush to clean up black oxide tools, works well.

Anyone know how the black finish is achieved at the factory?

It's a heated chemical process, quite fast, simple and inexpensive.

 

[BFBOB]

Mickey O and daddyocoull, That's what I ended up doing. Brass brush very gently by hand got the rust right off, and then rubbing in WD40 blended the semi-bare spot just fine. The finish wasn't pristine to begin with or this might not be adequate, but with wrenches showing their age and use, it was a big improvement, quick and easy.

SMKS, you're right about Evaporust. I would have sworn I saw phosphoric acid on the label, but I just checked the website, and it contains no acids. But I stand by my assessment of its utility. I rank it third, after 1: electrolysis and 2: hydrochloric acid.
Others have had much better experiences with it; that's fine.
That's why they make vanilla and chocolate.

Farmall, any rust removal method can take chrome off if the piece is severely rusted. Sometimes what looks like chrome over a rough casting is actually rust under the chrome. When the rust comes off, so will the chrome on top of it. If you examine the piece carefully you can probably see it. I suspect on your wrenches some of those dots of rust extend under the chrome around them, and whether you use mechanical chemical or electrical means of removal, some of that chrome is going to come off. But, your wrenches will still look better and last longer with oiled bare steel where the rust used to be.

 

[Outlawmws]

Sounds like you are there but yeah, light wire brushing, or a fine wire wheel used lightly will remove the rust unless it's really deep, and similar to bluing, once the red oxide is gone the metal usually keeps a black patina unless you go at it hard.