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blackening (coating) stainless?

jonny o

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Sep 9, 2009
Messages
95
Hoping a metal guru might be able to help me.
Short story: How do I blacken (or de-shine) this stainless:
shackle.jpg


Long story:

A buddy in the desert asked me to rig something up to hold a pack on his armor better than the plastic squeeze clips. I have most of it figured out, but the only "fastener" I want to trust on it is a d-shackle. I can only find small ones in stainless, and I really don't want him running around with something that shiny.

I tried plastidip, but it won't hold up. Even with thinning and multiple coats.
Tried ruffing it up and painting with a couple different sprays, again, don't think it will hold up.

What's next?
Keep in mind they are going to be small (half dollar size)
I have a hand-held propane torch, is there a heat-cool cycle that will blacken it?
That bluing oil the gun guys use?

I work in motorsports, my first thought was to find titanium ones, but we're talking 40ish bucks a piece... That's the last resort.

Thanks guys.
 
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romoman

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Feb 11, 2010
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Bedford, NH
McMaster has plain steel ones that you could do whatever you want to. I'm sure other places carry non stainless shackles. Or why not use a caribeener? They are more than strong enough and I'm sure you could find one in black (or another darker color).
 

asp

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Nov 24, 2010
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Location
Westport, MA
I bet you could heat it till glowing all the way through and it would get rid of the shine. It would still be stainless, but it would look dull gray.

I had purchased a SS header for my Jeep's 4.0 I6 on ebay and it didn't fit. Part of my modification to get it to fit was to heat and bend a section of it and it resulted in the loss of the chroming in the heated section. I used oxy ace, but I bet your propane would work. This process won't blacken it, but it would at least take the shine off.
 
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jonny o

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McMaster has plain steel ones Or why not use a caribeener?
Seems that these super small sizes are usually used in boating, and therefore always stainless, but I guess I'll keep looking.

Beiner was a thought, but this needs to pull tight to the vest and I'm afraid a beiner would be to sloppy and possibly catch on something

Powder coat?
Didn't think you could powder coat stainless... guess I'll have to find someone with a setup.

Sand blast it to a matt finish and then paint?
Same here, didn't think blasting would give me a paintable finish that would hold up.

I bet you could heat it till glowing all the way through and it would get rid of the shine. It would still be stainless, but it would look dull gray.
Guess I'll have to fire it up and give it a shot. Let it cool naturally, or dunk it?
 
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JSGAuto

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Aug 29, 2009
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Northern NJ
Didn't think you could powder coat stainless.

You can powder coat any material you can apply an electric charge to....even some plastics and composites.

I believe the coating you are looking for is "Black Oxidizing" More or less a corrosive process that creates a hard exterior, much like anodizing for AL.

The Modern version of black oxiding is called "Pasivation". Pretty much the same deal as black oxide, but the finish is cleaner, and the actually process is a bit different...but performs the same function. The result has a similar look to media blasting the part.

Additionally, phosphate is an option. There are several different types depending on the environment. From what you describe, I think a magnease phosphate will do.

I would not apply heat to that part if it has any significant load applied to it. You can (and will) induce serious stresses. If you can control the heat uniformly (Oven maybe?) then, OK, but keep the temp low.

Sorry for the list, but just throwing some industrial coating options out there.

Jim
 
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jonny o

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Sep 9, 2009
Messages
95
Thanks for all the help guys.
I know it may seem petty and trivial, but I'm sure you can appreciate trying to help out a friend, and wanting every detail perfect on one small project that he asked me to help with while serving for my freedom.

I tried a heat test on the pin only last night. Sorry for the cell shot. I like the color, but it's still got some sheen to it. I'm going to try some steel wool before and or after heating.

downsize.jpg


If that doesn't work, I'll probably go for JamieK's idea. The stuff brushes on and rinses off and looks easy enough for a non-chemically minded guy.

No fear of losing strength from heating here. The small pack was previously secured by plastic snap buckles that broke from abrasion, not payload.
Thanks again.

Who wants to bet I'll have more in testing all of this out and trying different methods than I would by buying the friggin titanium ones in the first place?
And boy do they look cool.
dshackle.gif
 

asp

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Nov 24, 2010
Messages
186
Location
Westport, MA
Guess I'll have to fire it up and give it a shot. Let it cool naturally, or dunk it?
I let it cool naturally. You'll change its properties a lot less.

In the picture you posted, it doesn't look like it got quite as hot as I suggested. When I did my header everything was glowing bright. The area that was glowing has a matte finish but the area next to the glowing section has the coloring of what you are showing. Perhaps I'll snag a picture tonight.

Good luck.
 
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EARTH QUAKE SHAKE PROOF...NORTH OTAGO,WAITAKI DIST
Hgi from new zealand.

Yeah, go to a stainless steel fabrication workshop or engineering equipt retailer or welding supply shop and ask for a container of "pasivating paste"....brush it on ,leave for 15 minutes and rinse of evry trace.....but b carefull not to breath fumes/vapor as it may lead to blindness or death.
Once rinsed its harmless.
I use it to grey up stainless rifles as shine scares animals.
The stuff can be sponge onto stenciled patterns if u have adhesive cut stencil pattern u want on stanless.

Please advise how u go?....caqrl g
 
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