Blacksmith Anvils Prices

[Maui]

I live in the northeast and I just ran across this local ad labeled "Anvils" on Craigslist:

https://utica.craigslist.org/tls/6217384552.html

It doesn't contain any photos. The entire description simply says, "Anvils, I have them from 80 lbs to 400, many over 200 lbs.,,,, Peter Wright, Hay Buden, Fisher,Swedish anvils ,trenton."

So I emailed him to ask what his prices were. His response was $4.00 to $5.00 per lb. I can't believe that anvil prices had climbed that high recently. Last I knew top dollar was about $3.00/lb for your typical 150 lb or smaller name brand forged anvil. How are they priced in your neck of the woods?

Maui

 

[PugetDude]

I live in the northeast and I just ran across this local ad labeled "Anvils" on Craigslist:

https://utica.craigslist.org/tls/6217384552.html

It doesn't contain any photos. The entire description simply says, "Anvils, I have them from 80 lbs to 400, many over 200 lbs.,,,, Peter Wright, Hay Buden, Fisher,Swedish anvils ,trenton."

So I emailed him to ask what his prices were. His response was $4.00 to $5.00 per lb. I can't believe that anvil prices had climbed that high recently. Last I knew top dollar was about $3.00/lb for your typical 150 lb or smaller name brand forged anvil. How are they priced in your neck of the woods?

Maui

$4.00 to $5.00 per lb. Thanks, Craigslist!

 

[G-ManBart]

I live in the northeast and I just ran across this local ad labeled "Anvils" on Craigslist:

https://utica.craigslist.org/tls/6217384552.html

It doesn't contain any photos. The entire description simply says, "Anvils, I have them from 80 lbs to 400, many over 200 lbs.,,,, Peter Wright, Hay Buden, Fisher,Swedish anvils ,trenton."

So I emailed him to ask what his prices were. His response was $4.00 to $5.00 per lb. I can't believe that anvil prices had climbed that high recently. Last I knew top dollar was about $3.00/lb for your typical 150 lb or smaller name brand forged anvil. How are they priced in your neck of the woods?

Maui

I've bought and sold a bunch of anvils lately....sort of trying to find exactly what I want.

I've been able to get anywhere from $3/lb for less desirable anvils, up to $6/lb for a really clean 145lb Hay Budden.

I got lucky and found a 305lb Peter Wright in excellent condition for $900 and a very solid 167lb Trenton for $550 and was happy with those prices.

The new 330lb Refflinghaus I bought would have been $2600 but I did a partial trade that was slightly in my favor.

People keep saying the problem is due to CL and eBay, but the reality is there's a building interest in blacksmithing, there are only a couple of companies making quality anvils now, and the prices are extremely high. That has pushed the prices of used anvils up....supply and demand.

 

[Bigrob88]

yeah... anvil prices are going through the roof, been searching for a couple years now for something decent

found a ad about some anvils for sale $50-$100 each about 20 of them
I sent them my phone number and heard nothing, couple months later phone rings and its a nice lady about the anvils and that she is ready to sell them now

I load my pockets full of cash and borrowed a 1 ton truck because I am about to strike gold here... show up to her house she opens her garage and announces "here they all are" toy anvils literally a collection of tiny anvils majority of them no bigger than 3" long I did buy what I would call a jewelers anvil off her, about 8" and about 20 pounds very nice tool for what it is
1 ton truck hauled it home no problem

 

[G-ManBart]

yeah... anvil prices are going through the roof, been searching for a couple years now for something decent

found a ad about some anvils for sale $50-$100 each about 20 of them
I sent them my phone number and heard nothing, couple months later phone rings and its a nice lady about the anvils and that she is ready to sell them now

I load my pockets full of cash and borrowed a 1 ton truck because I am about to strike gold here... show up to her house she opens her garage and announces "here they all are" toy anvils literally a collection of tiny anvils majority of them no bigger than 3" long I did buy what I would call a jewelers anvil off her, about 8" and about 20 pounds very nice tool for what it is
1 ton truck hauled it home no problem

Some of those small anvils are extremely desirable...some were salesman's samples, and some were gifts to employees, etc. Really big, and really small anvils tend to command the best prices.

 

[SilverDeck]

I live in the northeast and I just ran across this local ad labeled "Anvils" on Craigslist:

https://utica.craigslist.org/tls/6217384552.html

It doesn't contain any photos. The entire description simply says, "Anvils, I have them from 80 lbs to 400, many over 200 lbs.,,,, Peter Wright, Hay Buden, Fisher,Swedish anvils ,trenton."

So I emailed him to ask what his prices were. His response was $4.00 to $5.00 per lb. I can't believe that anvil prices had climbed that high recently. Last I knew top dollar was about $3.00/lb for your typical 150 lb or smaller name brand forged anvil. How are they priced in your neck of the woods?

Maui

Typically $3-$5 per pound around here (that is, when you can find them).

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

Are you saying this clown is out of line for $1800? He thinks its a trenton or arm and hammer.

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/scz/tls/d/blacksmith-anvil-trenton/6220999341.html

Nice anvil in great condition. Rings like a bell. Comes with the stand. Not sure of the make but I believe its a Trenton or
Arm & Hammer. Open to partial trades. Also have a swage block for sale 125lbs. Nice piece. Email for pics.

 

[ducksface]

I do not understand the need for a
Decent
Anvil.

What will you do on it, that you are so talented at, that an hf aso won't do?

I have a bounty out for a completely mushroomed, totally destroyed anvil of any sort.

Either I am the most untalented guy on GJ, or some of you just don't need anything other than just any thing, to bang on.

Tell me what I'm missing out on by not searching for years for a decent anvil.

Am I missing anything but the bandwagon?

 

[619DioFan]

I do not understand the need for a
Decent
Anvil.

What will you do on it, that you are so talented at, that an hf aso won't do?

I have a bounty out for a completely mushroomed, totally destroyed anvil of any sort.

Either I am the most untalented guy on GJ, or some of you just don't need any thing other than just anything, to bang on.

Tell me what I'm missing out on by not searching for years for a decent anvil.

Am I missing anything but the bandwagon?

no kidding. I paid 25.00 for a railroad track anvil so i would have something other then my vise to wail on. I am no blacksmith and the railroad track anvil works great for me ( and I still use my vise to pound steel on as well )

 

[jumbojak]

I do not understand the need for a
Decent
Anvil.

What will you do on it, that you are so talented at, that an hf aso won't do?

I have a bounty out for a completely mushroomed, totally destroyed anvil of any sort.

Either I am the most untalented guy on GJ, or some of you just don't need anything other than just any thing, to bang on.

Tell me what I'm missing out on by not searching for years for a decent anvil.

Am I missing anything but the bandwagon?

If you want a destroyed anvil look up Thomas Powers. He probably has a few that would meet your criteria. Agreed on the "decent" anvil too. There are very talented people who actively seek out anvils that are swaybacked or otherwise damaged because those are the anvils that excel at turning out some types of work. Me, I'll keep my big lump o'steel. If I didn't have that I'd find a nice big sledge or maul to bang on.

 

[ducksface]

I personally think the anvil craze is right up there with man-buns and other stylish notions.

 

[jumbojak]

You can buy brand new for what folks think used should go for and I can just about guarantee a new Nimba or Peddinghaus will perform better for 95% of what you might be tempted to do. Heck, if you want something that looks like an anvil a farrier's anvil can be had much more cheaply.

There's even a Turkish company, the name escapes me, that produces a north German pattern for a very reasonable cost. You can even get a leg vise from them. But, I suppose none of those look like what Wile E. Coyote dropped on the Roadrunner, which might cxount for something in some people's mind.

 

[zkling]

People keep saying the problem is due to CL and eBay, but the reality is there's a building interest in blacksmithing, there are only a couple of companies making quality anvils now, and the prices are extremely high. That has pushed the prices of used anvils up....supply and demand.

I think that is the minority though, with the majority being collectors. A traditional London style anvil is not very optimal for many crafts and specific tooling is made to suite. Especially when the face is destroyed.

 

[ducksface]

Pogs.

 

[G-ManBart]

I do not understand the need for a
Decent
Anvil.

What will you do on it, that you are so talented at, that an hf aso won't do?

I have a bounty out for a completely mushroomed, totally destroyed anvil of any sort.

Either I am the most untalented guy on GJ, or some of you just don't need anything other than just any thing, to bang on.

Tell me what I'm missing out on by not searching for years for a decent anvil.

Am I missing anything but the bandwagon?

It sounds like you're talking about using an anvil for simply beating on stuff, which isn't what they're intended for.

An ASO works find if you simply want to beat on something. If you want to forge hot steel, an ASO is better than rock, but nowhere near as useful as a proper anvil.

A decent anvil has significant rebound, so you don't have to use energy to raise the hammer after a strike. It also doesn't absorb much of the energy, so it goes into the work piece, and you can move the metal faster. An ASO does none of those.

Can you forge steel on a rock...sure. Is it the right way to do it? No.

 

[G-ManBart]

You can buy brand new for what folks think used should go for and I can just about guarantee a new Nimba or Peddinghaus will perform better for 95% of what you might be tempted to do.

Buying a new Nimba will cost more per pound than a vintage anvil. They range from over $8/lb for the 120lb model, to just under $7/lb for the 260lb model, to $5.72/lb for the 450lb model. Those prices don't include shipping, which will add a pretty good chunk.

A Peddinghaus will cost even more. The cheapest Peddinghaus per pound is the 275lb model that runs over $6.50/lb before shipping. Their little 77lb model is nearly $10/lb.

Keep in mind, I just dropped $2,600 on a 330lb No. 57 Refflinghaus, so I'm not arguing against new anvils. I'm just saying you can't get a new anvil for anywhere near what you can get a good vintage anvil for (of the same weight). It might take some time, but it can be done.

I've bought some really nice vintage anvils lately and the highest per pound I've paid was just over $4.

 

[G-ManBart]

I think that is the minority though, with the majority being collectors. A traditional London style anvil is not very optimal for many crafts and specific tooling is made to suite. Especially when the face is destroyed.

All of the blacksmithing classes I know of have waiting lists, and the five or six anvils I've sold lately have gone to either full-time blacksmiths, or people just starting out. That could be a coincidence, but the one "collector" anvil I have for sale hasn't sold yet.

 

[Corndoggeh]

Lets not forget Southwest US prices! Like this anvil I saw at a antique mall for $460.

I tend to get very annoyed at the "I can retire from this anvil" prices. There was an 80 lb anvil for sale on CL one time that had the Jerry rattle can swap meet restoration done to it for about $300. From the pictures, besides the awful 99cent enamel paint, the anvil looked like it had crisp clean corners and a clean face and the posting said "looks to be a vulcan". I figured I could work him down a bit if its not up to par but did have cash for it if it turned out to be what he claimed it was since anything else on CL was almost double what he was asking.

I get there and it turns out that the picture did not show the other side of the anvil where the entirety of the corner side had broken off and the paint was used to disguise the imperfections and damaged hardy hole. There was no name on it and it had low rebound with a hammer test (better than CI but still). When I tried to explain and negotiate the problems issues with it his only answer was that he "knew what he had and what its worth" and was firm on price.

I resolved to using a really big piece of flattened RR track. No horn but I have another RR track that is really rounded on the top that works almost as well.

 

[jumbojak]

Buying a new Nimba will cost more per pound than a vintage anvil. They range from over $8/lb for the 120lb model, to just under $7/lb for the 260lb model, to $5.72/lb for the 450lb model. Those prices don't include shipping, which will add a pretty good chunk.

A Peddinghaus will cost even more. The cheapest Peddinghaus per pound is the 275lb model that runs over $6.50/lb before shipping. Their little 77lb model is nearly $10/lb.

Keep in mind, I just dropped $2,600 on a 330lb No. 57 Refflinghaus, so I'm not arguing against new anvils. I'm just saying you can't get a new anvil for anywhere near what you can get a good vintage anvil for (of the same weight). It might take some time, but it can be done.

I've bought some really nice vintage anvils lately and the highest per pound I've paid was just over $4.

I was talking about the one posted above - the seller was asing better than $14 a pound!

 

[fatfillup]

I go to a lot of sales and do not see many anvils. Often they are beat to hell.

Good used ones are hard to come by so supply and demand take over.

 

[ptgarcia]

Buying a new Nimba will cost more per pound than a vintage anvil. They range from over $8/lb for the 120lb model, to just under $7/lb for the 260lb model, to $5.72/lb for the 450lb model. Those prices don't include shipping, which will add a pretty good chunk.

A Peddinghaus will cost even more. The cheapest Peddinghaus per pound is the 275lb model that runs over $6.50/lb before shipping. Their little 77lb model is nearly $10/lb.

Keep in mind, I just dropped $2,600 on a 330lb No. 57 Refflinghaus, so I'm not arguing against new anvils. I'm just saying you can't get a new anvil for anywhere near what you can get a good vintage anvil for (of the same weight). It might take some time, but it can be done.

I've bought some really nice vintage anvils lately and the highest per pound I've paid was just over $4.

Maybe in your area, but not out here. There's a guy on my local craigslist that wants $300 for his railroad rail "anvil," and its literally just a cut piece of rail.

 

[G-ManBart]

I was talking about the one posted above - the seller was asing better than $14 a pound!

Gotcha...that was way overpriced, for sure.

 

[G-ManBart]

Maybe in your area, but not out here. There's a guy on my local craigslist that wants $300 for his railroad rail "anvil," and its literally just a cut piece of rail.

People say that all the time, and then other people tell me the prices I'm seeing here are crazy high. Both can't be true.

In reality, it just takes some time and effort.

Here's a quality anvil that looks to be in decent shape in your area....Trenton 100lb for $500. That's not a steal, but it's not crazy. Hurry up...it was posted less than 30 minutes ago!

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb/tls/d/trenton-lbs-anvil/6226458038.html

 

[ducksface]

Historically anvils are worth scrap prices plus your slight need.
Anything g beyond is puffery.

How 'bout;

You learn on entry level tools and then progress instead of buying the very best tool, just to find out that you don't like Smithy work?

It's just plain *** stupid to buy a $1,000 telescope(yes, I know percentage of income plays into it) to see if your kid will take a peek at something Nasa photographed a million times better.


No one has yet to tell me the need for a decent anvil. Unless you've worn out your entry level tool, or progressed to a higher need....

Rebound is a great thing when it saves 20 minutes of your 8 hour day at the forge. Otherwise it's just a catchphrase.

 

[Maui]

Quality tools are always in demand.

Maui

 

[nine4gmc]

If you buy a $200 ASO and find out you don't like Smithing, you may get $50 for it used but if you buy a $1,000 real anvil and find out you don't like Smithing, you could easily get your money back or possibly even make money if you buy right.

 

[G-ManBart]

Historically anvils are worth scrap prices plus your slight need.
Anything g beyond is puffery.

How 'bout;

You learn on entry level tools and then progress instead of buying the very best tool, just to find out that you don't like Smithy work?

It's just plain *** stupid to buy a $1,000 telescope(yes, I know percentage of income plays into it) to see if your kid will take a peek at something Nasa photographed a million times better.


No one has yet to tell me the need for a decent anvil. Unless you've worn out your entry level tool, or progressed to a higher need....

Rebound is a great thing when it saves 20 minutes of your 8 hour day at the forge. Otherwise it's just a catchphrase.

It doesn't sound like you've done any forging at all.

Buying an ASO is just wasting money. You'll lose money when you sell it every single time. Buy a quality anvil in decent condition and you're not going to lose a penny if you decided to sell it. I've sold 5 anvils recently and made money on all of them. I'd make a bigger margin on most of the couple I'm planning to keep.

305lb Peter Wright I paid $900 for. I'd have a line of buyers if I listed it for $1500.

 

[American Locomotive]

Wasting money is paying $5/lb for what amounts to a hunk of steel. Keep your eyes peeled, and you will find good deals on good anvils.

We paid about $0.60/lb for a nice 155 pound anvil. When you hit the sweet spot on the face, the anvil rings and the hammer bounces almost to the same position you dropped it from. It's not forged, but definitely leagues better than a cast iron HF "ASO".

The guys purchasing and hoarding good anvils for cheap, then hocking them at grossly inflated prices are just completely ruining the smithing hobby for everybody. Those same people that flip anvils for profit are the same ones that insist that anything that isn't a top-end Peter Wright is a complete waste of time. Don't even get those guys started on pieces of railroad.

 

[ptgarcia]

Here's a quality anvil that looks to be in decent shape in your area....Trenton 100lb for $500. That's not a steal, but it's not crazy. Hurry up...it was posted less than 30 minutes ago!

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb/tls/d/trenton-lbs-anvil/6226458038.html

Thanks for posting that but I really have no need for an anvil.

By the way, what is an ASO?

 

[kythri]

By the way, what is an ASO?

Anvil shaped object.

As an example, either an extremely low-grade anvil, or a piece of railroad track that's been shaped up.

 

[ptgarcia]

Anvil shaped object.

As an example, either an extremely low-grade anvil, or a piece of railroad track that's been shaped up.

Aaahhh.....thanks!

 

[BikerDad]

Wasting money is paying $5/lb for what amounts to a hunk of steel. Keep your eyes peeled, and you will find good deals on good anvils.

We paid about $0.60/lb for a nice 155 pound anvil.

When? Also, "where"? because the market varies significantly by location.

 

[American Locomotive]

When? Also, "where"? because the market varies significantly by location.

~2014 in the North East US.

 

[jumbojak]

Gotcha...that was way overpriced, for sure.

Asking prices like that tend to be pretty common, at least around here. In California too, apparently. I've been chatting with a kid in North Carolina who has been trying to get set up. He's too hung up on the idea of having the "right" tools to actually go out and give a piece of hot steel a good whack.

Even recommended he start off with clay and a piece of wood to get a feel for things but he keeps procrastinating. I see the same to a degree in the diy auto crowd, though to a lesser degree perhaps out of necessity.

How many times on here have you seen someone get so fixated on the best tool to do a given job and use that as an excuse to procrastinate? A few instances spring to my mind. The same goes for a blacksmith just getting started. You don't need a London pattern anvil with perfect edges and a flat face to forge. I'm with ducksface, to a certain degree at least.

 

[G-ManBart]

Wasting money is paying $5/lb for what amounts to a hunk of steel. Keep your eyes peeled, and you will find good deals on good anvils.

We paid about $0.60/lb for a nice 155 pound anvil. When you hit the sweet spot on the face, the anvil rings and the hammer bounces almost to the same position you dropped it from. It's not forged, but definitely leagues better than a cast iron HF "ASO".

The guys purchasing and hoarding good anvils for cheap, then hocking them at grossly inflated prices are just completely ruining the smithing hobby for everybody. Those same people that flip anvils for profit are the same ones that insist that anything that isn't a top-end Peter Wright is a complete waste of time. Don't even get those guys started on pieces of railroad.

Finding a quality anvil for under $1/lb is going to take a huge stroke of luck now, and a lot has changed since you bought your anvil three years ago.

Nothing wrong with using a piece of railroad if that's what someone has and can afford, but I can't imagine anybody using a piece of railroad who wouldn't prefer an actual anvil.

 

[Davefr]

We paid about $0.60/lb for a nice 155 pound anvil. When you hit the sweet spot on the face, the anvil rings and the hammer bounces almost to the same position you dropped it from. It's not forged, but definitely leagues better than a cast iron HF "ASO".

$.60/lb is likely a once in a lifetime "yousuck" type of deal. That's very different from market price.

 

[ducksface]

Finding a quality anvil for under $1/lb is going to take a huge stroke of luck now, and a lot has changed since you bought your anvil three years ago.

Nothing wrong with using a piece of railroad if that's what someone has and can afford, but I can't imagine anybody using a piece of railroad who wouldn't prefer an actual anvil.

There is no pride in owning the best tools and doing mediocre work.
There is pride in owning mediocre tools and doing the best work.

There is no instance where I want to learn on the best available. In negates ability on anything lesser.

 

[American Locomotive]

$.60/lb is likely a once in a lifetime "yousuck" type of deal. That's very different from market price.

The trick is to just keep an eye out, and look for the "yard-art" type people. They'll often be selling old rusty anvils for $2/lb or less. They're often pretty nice 1800s forged anvils as well. The descriptions often say something about needing a "restore" or "new paint job".

 

[Corndoggeh]

Nothing wrong with using a piece of railroad if that's what someone has and can afford, but I can't imagine anybody using a piece of railroad who wouldn't prefer an actual anvil.

Lets not forget how many older civilizations used anvils like these shown. You have a solid granite block that ancient greeks would have used and an anvil set up that the vikings would have used and look what they were able to do with it. Are they better than a nice big beautiful anvil? Hell no, but they get the job done just as well, necessity is the father of invention. Hell, I wouldn't be surprised if a production shop was using railroad anvils because they can be had for pennies on the dollar compared to real anvils and can get the job done just as well if its coupled with a swage block. Come to think of it, I think a swage block and RR track is lower cost and just as, if not more, useful than an anvil. Even at that, the picture with the viking anvil shows swage type forms in the lower right so you don't even need to buy a swage block when you can make one as well.

 

[G-ManBart]

Asking prices like that tend to be pretty common, at least around here. In California too, apparently. I've been chatting with a kid in North Carolina who has been trying to get set up. He's too hung up on the idea of having the "right" tools to actually go out and give a piece of hot steel a good whack.

Even recommended he start off with clay and a piece of wood to get a feel for things but he keeps procrastinating. I see the same to a degree in the diy auto crowd, though to a lesser degree perhaps out of necessity.

How many times on here have you seen someone get so fixated on the best tool to do a given job and use that as an excuse to procrastinate? A few instances spring to my mind. The same goes for a blacksmith just getting started. You don't need a London pattern anvil with perfect edges and a flat face to forge. I'm with ducksface, to a certain degree at least.

I don't think someone needs the best of everything to get started at all...not sure why some folks think I'm saying that, or feel that way. Still, if I have a choice between a decent anvil, an ASO, or a hunk of scrap steel to chose from, I'll go with the decent anvil if I want to forge something.