Blacktop floor
- Thread starter sodfather
- Start date
tcianci
Well-known member
How about the paint that they use on blacktop basketball courts. You could probably spruce it up with that.
GeorgiaHybrid
Well-known member
Can you pour a topping slab of concrete? Either that or dig it up and pour a new slab.
You can paint it as noted above but I don't think epoxy will cover it. You could also use racedeck but I'm not sure what the bearing surface of the tile would do to the blacktop in the long run.
You can paint it as noted above but I don't think epoxy will cover it. You could also use racedeck but I'm not sure what the bearing surface of the tile would do to the blacktop in the long run.
thegarageguy
Well-known member
interlocking floor tiles are your only logical answer.
tfi racing
Well-known member
You have two choices:
1-dig it up and replace with concrete
2-dig it up and replace with concrete
I endured the horror show of an asphalt floor in my last garage,the only solution is to get rid of it.
1-dig it up and replace with concrete
2-dig it up and replace with concrete
I endured the horror show of an asphalt floor in my last garage,the only solution is to get rid of it.
chevelle67
Well-known member
I don t think I`ve ever seen an asphalt garage floor. Is this something thats regional? The more I think about it it would seem to be a bad idea. How do you keep toolboxes etc from sinking in? I have an asphalt drive that was layed thick and packed numerous times to put up with tractors etc and a grill still sank in when it was hot. Sorry for rambling just am curious how many are out there.
What happened was there was a blacktop driveway and concrete floor for garage. Then sometime between the 1980's the driveway needed new blacktop and the original garage floor which was concrete was cracked up so the sons of the estate black top over the concrete floor 
. Now since then I am putting money in this house and have worked my way outside. I ripped out the blacktop driveway and put concrete in. They could not get a bobcat in the garage so they gave me a high bid to rip it out by hand so I did not do it, now I wish I would have, just didn't have the dough. However my workshop were my tools are is concrete its just were I park my sleds and four wheelers. I do like the floor tile idea thanks guys.
. Now since then I am putting money in this house and have worked my way outside. I ripped out the blacktop driveway and put concrete in. They could not get a bobcat in the garage so they gave me a high bid to rip it out by hand so I did not do it, now I wish I would have, just didn't have the dough. However my workshop were my tools are is concrete its just were I park my sleds and four wheelers. I do like the floor tile idea thanks guys.GeorgiaHybrid
Well-known member
If nothing else, rent an electric jack hammer and dig it out yourself or hire someone hanging around the Home Depot looking for some work to do it for you. The hard part is getting it out. The concrete guys should be able to fill. level, compact and pour the slab from that point.
The cheapest solution with the best result would be to use RaceDeck. That is what I did in my shop, 1000-1200 of the 3200 square feet was asphalt. I got RaceDeck for the entire shop for quite a bit cheaper than it would have cost to dig out the asphalt and pour concrete in the front area only. Obviously another benefit is RaceDeck looks alot better than unfinished concrete. Now that the RaceDeck is down, you cannot tell part of the floor is asphalt underneath, everything looks/feels the same.
rasit
Well-known member
Rip it out. All your doing is putting **** on ****, unless of course, your in the mood for a **** sandwich.........
You bring up a very good point.
Here are some pictures of my "**** sandwich"
Also, I probably should mention that my "**** sandwich" is still like new after 6-8 months in a commercial environment and there are no signs of that changing anytime in the forseable future. It has a forklift, 3000 pound manlift, car lift and cars driven on it daily. I also have spilled a bunch of oil, antifreeze and gas on it, it just wipes up with a little degreaser.
rasit
Well-known member
I didn't mean to indicate that Racedeck is a **** product, which your floor clearly shows can be a great look. I was refering to the broken concrete with asphalt subbase that he would be trying to hide. I bet your subase is solid. If you had laid it on a flexible subase it wouldn't look so good.
BetterDays
Well-known member
What's the deal with the Mustang?
Zrexxer
Well-known member
I'l have one of those too, please!
I misunderstood you then. I assumed since the majority of the thread was talking about putting plastic tiles over asphalt that your "**** on ****" comment referred to that.
I agree it would be ideal to rip out the old asphalt/concrete and pour new concrete, but that is very expensive and time consuming. It sounds like that was out of the original poster's budget, as it was with mine in my shop.
I am very happy with the decision to use RaceDeck. My floor is in very rough condition. The asphalt was there to cover up concretely that was cracked badly. There were several large potholes in the asphalt, and the more I would work on it, the more it would get torn up. The concrete area of the shop was in better condition, but there were several large cracks in it since the entire 2000 sq ft slab only had 1 relief cut down the center.
While you will get the best results putting RaceDeck on a nice smooth floor, you can definitely put it down on an uneven floor. The tile interlock strongly, it is difficult to get them apart. There are a couple areas in my floor where there is nearly a 1" gap between the bottom of the tile and floor. They flex and conform to the floor when there is significant weight put on it, but it doesn't come close to snapping apart. The entire floor floats, so if your floor moves underneath the RaceDeck will just flex to conform to it. Before we put down the floor we used 2-3 bags of floor leveler (for the entire 2600 sq ft we did) and just smoothed out the worst areas as best as we could.
I attached some "before" pictures of my floor. The floor was actually in much worse condition than the pictures make it look.
That is a project I started 3-4 years ago and still haven't finished. It originally was a 92 4 cylinder convertible, I bought a wrecked 91 5.0 convertible and swapped the drive train over. The wrecked acar had $8000 in engine work done to it 1000 miles/3 months before the accident and I was able to pick it up dirt cheap. I drove it last summer a little bit, to sort the bugs out before I put the supercharger on. We just painted it about a month ago which is why all the lights are off it. I hope to get it finished this winter. It has been alot of fun, but my ADD kicked in along time ago. I need to stick to motorcycle projects that I can get down quickly, or else I lose interest.
chevelle67
Well-known member
Whats the deal with the 88? I mean where did you get it, not why are they running like they are.
Well, Hendrick's decided to sell it since Dale Earnhardt Jr hasn't really been racing this year.
Seriously though. My father bought the car earlier this year from a racing school in North Carolina. It is actually a DEI chassis, not Hendrick's. We were told by the race school that it was raced by Jr as the Bud #8 in 2007 at Martinsville. We haven't asked for the history of the chassis from DEI to verifiy it though. When Jr left DEI, they sold off several cars, most went to other race teams, and a couple went to the race school. The race school repainted it as the National Guard car. It is all Nascar spec and still legal to race in Nascar, except it has a 400hp crate engine instead of the Nascar engine. The race school decided not to add the Car of Tomorrow cars into their school until the economy picked up, so they sold it to us.
chevelle67
Well-known member
That is a nice piece of Iron, I could not have that in my garage, all the neighbors would see is a blue/white streak going down the road daily. Its bad enough that we all shakedown our late models on the backroads here. As long as its not crazy the athorities dont mind much.
I wish I could get away with that. I live in the city and it is heavily policed. I started racing this year in a FWD 4 cylinder class at our local asphalt oval, which has been alot of fun. We have had the National Guard out there 3-4 times this year for some spirited "parade laps". I have a feeling if I attempt anything more than that it will end up in the impound lot.
PistolWhip
Well-known member
How much does something like that cost? That would be the ultimate "die cast" car for my dad's colelction... LOL
rasit
Well-known member
Are you done stealing sodfather's thread yet? All the guy was looking for was advice for his floor. Somebody's really into themselves, it's pitiful.
If I remember right he paid $22,000 for it. They often sell as much as $100,000 depending on the signficance of the car. The cheapest one I saw was a Juan Pablo Montoya rolling chassis/body for $5,000.
Falcon67
Well-known member
>The cheapest one I saw was a Juan Pablo Montoya rolling chassis/body for $5,000.
Ouch! I'd be insulted LOL.
I once had a shop with a black top floor. It was usable, but just barely. You could maybe get away with a concrete overlay if there is no water penetration and the base is good and tight - which it may not be. For black top to last a while, it has to have a good, deep base of compacted material to keep water away from it. Water just kills it after a while. If the old floor (concrete) was broken up by ground movement/poor base/poor drainage - then an overlay is iffy. If you had room for 4" of reinforced concrete over the top, probably OK. But dad-gum that's a thick floor!
Ouch! I'd be insulted LOL.
I once had a shop with a black top floor. It was usable, but just barely. You could maybe get away with a concrete overlay if there is no water penetration and the base is good and tight - which it may not be. For black top to last a while, it has to have a good, deep base of compacted material to keep water away from it. Water just kills it after a while. If the old floor (concrete) was broken up by ground movement/poor base/poor drainage - then an overlay is iffy. If you had room for 4" of reinforced concrete over the top, probably OK. But dad-gum that's a thick floor!
When I bought my shop, you couldn't tell the floor was asphalt, it was so dirty and there was so much junk around it looked like concrete. I was suprised how quickly the asphalt degraded running the forklift and manlift around on it. We also spilled a little gas on it which softened it right up. The floor really got torn up pretty bad, just working on the building, I can just imagine what would have happened if we were working on cars or motorcycles in the area on a regular basis. The asphalt covered by RaceDeck though is great. The RaceDeck blocks everything that was damaging the asphalt and makes it look much nicer in the process.
Thanks for all the advise. The floor is solid it has had alot of weight on it over the last 5 years. However I'm torn I really don't want to put money in to a concrete floor even though that is my best option, but I love the looks of those tiles. Its not the whole garage my workshop were my tools are is concrete so its not a total loss.
steve in nj
Well-known member
Rip out the asphalt and lay concrete. I had a detached garage with an asphalt floor that was disintegrating into dry dust and uneven with sinking spots. I dug it out to discover it was laid over a poorly laid cracked up concrete floor. The sink spots resulted from the weak spots in the concrete underneath. And the asphalt will fall apart if you spill gas on it.