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Blast Cabinet help

srosa707

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Apr 6, 2006
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Orcutt, CA.
Can anyone reccomend a blast cabinet? Im lookin to pick one up but i dont want anything thats gonna clog alot and whatnot. Any suggestions? Thanks fellas.
 
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rodwerkz

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Apr 3, 2006
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46
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bayonne nj
don't buy the harbor frieght model.. it ***** sH!T. Complete waste of money. it leaks, the hoses and hardware are **** and has no lighting provisions.

The easwood ones aren't too bad. Had one a while back and it worked well.. only problem is you have to put it together...
 

hog1340

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Jun 6, 2006
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131
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North Carolina
I just bought a Bad Boy Blaster. They are a small shop out of Ohio, and have a nice product. http://www.badboyblasters.com/ is there website, I bought the Magnum II. There were a few small problems with it initially, hose clamps weren't tight, holes in one of the supply lines. But all in all for the money I am very happy.

Good Luck Ed

PS The owner's brother owns Eaton Compressor, which is the compressor I also just bought.
 

gerry

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Baton Rouge
I've got two in my shop. One ftom TIP Tools I use with glassbeads and a big commercial Clemco unit that I use with aluminum oxide. both work very well. As far as HF cabinents leaking-any cabinent will leak if you do not run it inder a vacumm. If you want good results you must have a dust collector. It needs to be something better that a shop vac, too. A shop vac will last about a week of heavy use. The problem with shop vacs is that they pull the air from the cabinent through the motor for cooling. No matter how good your filter is, and the shop vac filter is way too open for blasting dust, the abrasive dust is deposited on the bearing of the motor and quickly eats them up. If you use a vacumm cleaner type motor, look for a "bypass" type motor that uses outside air to cool the motor. Also, be prepared to replace your nozzle and gun in a short time because what comes on any cheap cabinent will be eaten up in a short time. Tip Tools sells better guns that have hardened steel lining the abrasive path and carbide nozzles. Anything other than carbide nozzles have a short live, steel being the shortest and ceramic being not much better. Do a websearch for Tip Tools or sandblasting equipment and you should find Tip
 

-lecroix-

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I have the Harbor Freight cabinet. I agree, straight out of the box, it *****. But a tube of silicone fixed the leaks along with adding a vacumm system. Adding TP Tools retrofit kit for import cabinets makes it blast right along. Mine had a flourescent light in it, so I can't comment on the "no light provisions." And even after spending on the upgrades I still got a few hundred dollars left over compared to the next cheapest thing I could find.

If you buy the Harbor Freight unit, remember that you are really only buying the cabinet itself ... as the above person posted, the gun and pick-up hardware blows.

Here is a link to TP Tools ... http://www.tptools.com/
 

rodwerkz

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Apr 3, 2006
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bayonne nj
More about HF. Just to be clear i'm talking about the common benchtop model to goes for a bit under a buck.

By leaking i mean the damn thing leaks even when it's off . The doors fit like **** and the latches are a joke. The latches are positioned in such a stupid way that they don't even pull the doors into the main cabnet body. The shity foam seals don't help either.

By far the worst part about the thing is the pickup assembly and hoses. I had to replace the hoses even before i got started.

Sooo.. essentially if you want to use the cabnet and do a bunch of rework and retrofit the HF would probably work ok. you get what you pay for.
 

cc_rider

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Jun 22, 2006
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223
Location
Austin Texas
There's a place in Texas that builds blast cabinets from 55-gal drums. Called 'Barrel Blaster' or something like that. About $300 for the basic model. When I get a blaster I'm pretty sure it'll be that one.

We have the benchtop HF unit here at work. Lame. I 'rebuilt' it awhile back, replacing all the screws and gooping them up, new door seal and latches, etc. Still pretty marginal performance. The shop vac works pretty well to keep the dust down during operation though. We don't use it full-time so the shop vac solution has worked okay so far. Plus I stuffed some air-filter media inside the baffle that goes to the vac hookup; it seems to keep most of the crud from getting to the vac.

c.
 
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srosa707

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Apr 6, 2006
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112
Location
Orcutt, CA.
THanks guys. I want one for my Garage so i dont need a $2500 Bad Boy setup! Id love to get one like that, but my budget will not allow. Thanks for the info though...
 

hog1340

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131
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North Carolina
The one I bought was $1299, I looked around and there isn't much oout there for that kinda money. If your looking for a bench top then I would say it is a little much. I was originally going to buy a ****, or one of the ones from eastwood, but the shipping was insane. Eastwood's shipped from manufacturer, so it was $450 shipping plus $110 home deliveryplus $120 lift gate, the shipping was better than 1/2 the price of the blaster.

Good luck Ed
 

gerry

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Baton Rouge
Just wanted to point out something here. No matter where you get a blast cabinent it WILL leak some. It's just the nature of the fine dust that you are creating inside. When you mentioned putting it in your gararge that sent chills up my spine. be fore warned that if you store you car in the same gararge as your cabinenet, you car WILL get a layer of abrasive dust on it. This dust, you may or may not see, will damage your paintjod every time you wash your car of even brush up against it. It will get on your wipers and grind streaks into your windshield. It will get on the wipers that rub on your side windows and eat into the glass every time you roll your window up or down. If you go with a benchtop modle I suggest you take it outside everytime you use to eliminate as much of the dust in your gararge as you can. If you choose a cabinent larger than a benchtop, put wheels on it so you can wheel it out into your driveway. Please don't blow this warning off as I have expierenced all of the above damage to my cars and seen the dust accumilate in my shop. Ideal situation would be a seperate room or building for both your blast cabinents and welding/metalwork equipment so none of the debris gets on our cars. Barring any of the above solutions, vent your cabinent through your gararge wall, down into a bucket of water so the air/dust has to pass through the water to get out. This will remove alot of the dust from the discharge. Run your dust collecter for a while after you finish blasting before you open your cabinent up to get your parts out. Oh, and do not vent your cabinenet anywhere near your aircompressor. The dust is so fine that it will go right through most airfilters that come on aircompressors. I'm not trying to discourage you, my two cabinenets in my shop ar two of the handiest tools I own, just trying to elighten you before you learn the hard way. Good luck
 

-lecroix-

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rodwerkz said:
More about HF. Sooo.. essentially if you want to use the cabnet and do a bunch of rework and retrofit the HF would probably work ok. you get what you pay for.

I wouldn't call adding silicone to joints and changing the pickup tube and gun as "a bunch of rework."

But then again, everyone's opinion of "work" varies.
 

Hawk231

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Jul 12, 2006
Messages
94
Location
Okeana, OH
PAToyota said:
Second TP Tools, I have a 960 with the full size side extension and added a second light inside. Very quality product.

I'm picking up my 960 tomorrow. How did the extension work out? I was thinking of getting one too.

You can get the 960, and other models, on ebay for less than the price listed at www.tptools.com. The 960 goes for $799 and they have them on constantly. Bid the reserve and if you don't win bid on another one. Shipping without a lift gate will run $120-$240 depending on the zone. $50 for unloading service where available. I'm fortunate that they're close enough for me to go get it economically.
 

eschoendorff

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Feb 6, 2005
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Michigan
gerry said:
Just wanted to point out something here. No matter where you get a blast cabinent it WILL leak some. It's just the nature of the fine dust that you are creating inside. When you mentioned putting it in your gararge that sent chills up my spine. be fore warned that if you store you car in the same gararge as your cabinenet, you car WILL get a layer of abrasive dust on it. This dust, you may or may not see, will damage your paintjod every time you wash your car of even brush up against it. It will get on your wipers and grind streaks into your windshield. It will get on the wipers that rub on your side windows and eat into the glass every time you roll your window up or down. If you go with a benchtop modle I suggest you take it outside everytime you use to eliminate as much of the dust in your gararge as you can. If you choose a cabinent larger than a benchtop, put wheels on it so you can wheel it out into your driveway. Please don't blow this warning off as I have expierenced all of the above damage to my cars and seen the dust accumilate in my shop. Ideal situation would be a seperate room or building for both your blast cabinents and welding/metalwork equipment so none of the debris gets on our cars. Barring any of the above solutions, vent your cabinent through your gararge wall, down into a bucket of water so the air/dust has to pass through the water to get out. This will remove alot of the dust from the discharge. Run your dust collecter for a while after you finish blasting before you open your cabinent up to get your parts out. Oh, and do not vent your cabinenet anywhere near your aircompressor. The dust is so fine that it will go right through most airfilters that come on aircompressors. I'm not trying to discourage you, my two cabinenets in my shop ar two of the handiest tools I own, just trying to elighten you before you learn the hard way. Good luck
Dayum! Good point! :shocking: This never would have even occured to me....
 

chevy302dz

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Jan 12, 2005
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953
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NE
I have one of the **** blast cabinents and it's been perfect. If you're going to blast with a real aggressive media make sure you get a lot of extra tips they go fast.
 

PAToyota

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South Central Pennsylvania, USA
I picked up my 960 at the Carlisle Fall Show for less than the eBay price. Their guys loaded it into my pickup and I unloaded it with the Bobcat on my end. If you are anywhere near their store in Canfield, Ohio, they have a big sale when they get back from the Hershey Show - they're at Carlisle the one weekend, Hershey the next, and then anything that goes back to the store is reduced and they'll take it right off the truck rather than put it back into the warehouse.
 

Hawk231

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Jul 12, 2006
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94
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Okeana, OH
PAToyota said:
I picked up my 960 at the Carlisle Fall Show for less than the eBay price. Their guys loaded it into my pickup and I unloaded it with the Bobcat on my end. If you are anywhere near their store in Canfield, Ohio, they have a big sale when they get back from the Hershey Show - they're at Carlisle the one weekend, Hershey the next, and then anything that goes back to the store is reduced and they'll take it right off the truck rather than put it back into the warehouse.

Doh... :bowdown: And I thought the ebay price was a good deal. :) Is your cabinet extension the plastic 16" one they sell or something else? I didn't pick up the extension today. After seeing it I was worried that it might not support much weight.
 

PAToyota

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Actually, I just got their Fall Catalog and right on the cover is the 960 25th Anniversary Edition for $799. My extension is "The Extender" as opposed to "The Boxer" smaller one. It is pretty solid. Most times the weight of something is going to be resting on the grating in the main part, so there isn't a lot of issue of it holding weight. Bolted in place, it is solid.
 
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SteveL

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Jan 14, 2005
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760
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St. Louis, MO
I was fortunate to pick up the Skat Blast cabinet, vacuum and 5hp compressor that a buddy bought new from TP about 15 years ago for $500 when he sold his house and had to get rid of it. It has worked very well for me and would highly reccomend it. Yea, I know. I ****.
 

Hawk231

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Okeana, OH
PAToyota said:
Actually, I just got their Fall Catalog and right on the cover is the 960 25th Anniversary Edition for $799. My extension is "The Extender" as opposed to "The Boxer" smaller one. It is pretty solid. Most times the weight of something is going to be resting on the grating in the main part, so there isn't a lot of issue of it holding weight. Bolted in place, it is solid.

The 960 25th Anniversary Edition is on the website too. It's not quite the same as the 960 pro. Not sure if the differences are worth the $300 though. No abrasive media, trigger gun instead of foot pedal. There may be more differences...

Yeah, I guess I could support the stuff over the grating. Started thinking about it and realized that the most it would have to support would be ~30lb. The extension should be able to do that easy.
:thumbup:

P.S. SteveL you **** :beer:
 
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PAToyota

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Yeah, took a closer look and saw that there was the 960-FL at $799, the standard 960 at $1099, and then the 960-SE at $1199.

I got a standard 960 for $60 less than the catalog price at the time - this was a couple years ago. And no shipping costs.
 

toms73novass

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Nov 10, 2005
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grand island, ny
I made mine for about $200. MDF lined with 22g sheet metal. Bought gloves from eastwood. 3' deep 4' long 3' high.

Picture1.jpg
 

Retlaw 66

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Oct 17, 2006
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Eastern Pa
That's a nice setup Tom!:thumbup:
I noticed you are using a pressure-blaster.....does that require a higher capacity dust-removal system than a siphon-feed? What are you using for the exhaust?

I was introduced to a pressure-blast cabinet at a job I started last year....it rocks!!!

I'm going to convert my home unit to a pressure-blast as well!
Walt
 

Retlaw 66

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Eastern Pa
srosa707 said:
Can anyone reccomend a blast cabinet? Im lookin to pick one up but i dont want anything thats gonna clog alot and whatnot. Any suggestions? Thanks fellas.

I built my own years ago. It worked okay, but I always wanted something nicer...I went to several auctions and finally picked up a 48x48 Trinco for $700. It was the 4th auction I went to where I was bidding on a cabinet....needless to say, I lost the first 3 times!

So keep an eye out for auctions in your area, you might find a good one!
 

Down Under Bloke

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toms73novass said:
I made mine for about $200. MDF lined with 22g sheet metal. Bought gloves from eastwood. 3' deep 4' long 3' high.

Picture1.jpg

Nice unit.:beer:

Is the shopvac hooked up to remove airborne dust in the unit? What sizes compressor do you have? If you had to build another one, what would you do different? :bowdown:
 

toms73novass

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grand island, ny
I am very happy with my cabinet. It does almost everything I need.

The only changes I would make:

1. Mis calculated the shoot length, was a bit longer than I had anticaipated, it ended up 6" longer than I wanted.

2. I would put a edge door in the cabinet so I could put long items in it. (I am going to do this this winter. It will have a side box and give me 2 more feet.


As far as the shop vac goes. I use a Clean Stream filter. It is a HEPA style that catches all fine particles, otherwise it will kill the motor in the shop vac in short order. (ask me how I know?!:wtf: ) I usually put the shop vac outside (window on other side of blast cabinet and run hose out window to keep down on noise.) You definately need a vac! If you see on the wall , top right, a couple times forgetting to turn on vac and dust goes everywhere and quickly you cant see what you are doing. I have a duct that causes air to enter from top right and then flow along the "floor" of the cabinet for cross draw.

96a8677e.jpg


I am feeding my blaster with a 60 gallon 1954 American Kellog compressor with a 20 gallon coleman as a backup. I can blast pretty much cont. I use to use just the 20 gallon and could blast for 10-15 min.
 

Hawk231

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Okeana, OH
PAToyota,

Is there any way you could post some pictures of your cabinet extension installation. I picked up an extension for my cabinet, but I'm having a little trouble positioning it. The instructions that came with it aren't the best.
 

1320stang

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Edmond, OK
On the Bad Boy page, they have a vertical sandblast cabinet for $599 with a self contained vacuum unit. 23 5/8" x 33" x 24 3/4" interior work space, it's 59" tall, 32 5/8" wide and 24 3/8" deep. That doesn't make sense, but I converted them from metric, here's the page, just scroll down about halfway.

http://www.badboyblasters.com/id70.html
 

-lecroix-

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That $599 unit looks to be the same unit you can buy at Harbor Freight for $199 ... minus the vacuum unit.

Harbor Freight also has a stand alone dust collector for this blast cabinet for $115.

I have the Harbor Freight cabinet, and the first thing I did when I got it home was to silicone all of the joints and rivets and then $hit can the gun and pickup tube. Ordered the gun & pickup tube retro kit for "import cabinets" from TP Tools. Works like a champ ... and cheap.
 
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ron in sc

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Mar 19, 2006
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Charleston, SC
Are thoses Badboy sandblasters Chinese? I ask because the pressure blaster they show in the link looks just like the one I got on sale with 15% off coupon at Harbor Freight for about $117.
 

ng8264723

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732
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Oakham MA
There is only one cabinet to buy ZERO BLAST. Look around for one used. They have the best dust removal system available. I got mine for $500. It is awesome. It has a 6 foot by 2 X 2 foot filtration cabinet and a turbo filtration/reclaim system. It is quiet. No noisy vacuum and it works better. LOOK FOR A USED ONE SEARCH AND WAIT IT WILL BE WORTH IT
 

1320stang

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That cabinet is only a few miles from me. Last time I saw it on Ebay he was wanting some $1500 for it. I may have to offer him $100 for it and see if he bites. It's been sitting outside for a while, I was thinking of putting it beside my house and covering it with a tarp when hot in use. But I think all it is, is a cabinet. No filter, regulators, or anything else. The guy tends to want new prices on used stuff. He has tons of mill cutters and drills.
 

PAToyota

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Hawk231 said:
PAToyota,

Is there any way you could post some pictures of your cabinet extension installation. I picked up an extension for my cabinet, but I'm having a little trouble positioning it. The instructions that came with it aren't the best.

It wasn't too hard. I just held it in place and traced around it with a pencil and marked the mounting hole locations with a Sharpie. Then measured in the width of the flange and marked that with a Sharpie. Started at the existing hole for the dust collector and cut it out with an air shear. Searched through some stuff on the hard drive and came up with these two from when I was installing it.
 
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Hawk231

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Okeana, OH
PAToyota said:
It wasn't too hard. I just held it in place and traced around it with a pencil and marked the mounting hole locations with a Sharpie. Then measured in the width of the flange and marked that with a Sharpie. Started at the existing hole for the dust collector and cut it out with an air shear. Searched through some stuff on the hard drive and came up with these two from when I was installing it.


It's funny that the angle of the front slope of my cabinet doesn't match the extension box. I wonder which one has changed... Mine is supposed to be a 960 too. Also, I can't keep the bottom screw out of the area where the pan joins the side wall unless the top screws are in the top/side overlap. I need to think about this some more...

Thanks for the pics!!!
 
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c.schulz

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mi
I ALSO MADE MINE FROM WOOD. 2X2s ,2X4s, AND PLYWOOD. ITS ABOUT 4' WIDE AND 4, TALL WITH 3' DEEP. AFTER BUILDING IT I PICKED UP A FOOT PEDAL AND NOZZLE FROM A LOCAL SUPLLY HOUSE FOR $150.
IMG_1518Medium.jpg



cHRIS
 

Hawk231

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Okeana, OH
It turned out to be a pretty straight forward install. I was wrong about the cabinet and extension front angles being different.

"Ain't nothin to it but to do it" An acquaintance of mine was keen on saying that. I'm just waiting for the seam sealer to dry now.
 

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