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Blast Cabinet Media

diiulio

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Joined
Nov 14, 2008
Messages
136
Location
Saratoga Springs, NY
I picked up a Skat Blast 850 cabinet. What media are you using? I have read through a few of the threads on here and the TPC media. I was thinking of swinging by Tractor Supply and picking up the Black Beauty slag, but see they have the 20/40 (fine) and 40/80 (medium).

I have a Ingersoll Rand 60 gallon compressor that is rated 11.1cfm @90psi; so I am not killing it on the compressor side of things, but it should be enough.

I am blasting a few small engine parts and oil pan to get painted for the Ford Flathead I am trying to finish up building.

Also, the glass is pretty dirty and there is no protective film on it. Any recommendations on how to clean up the glass?

So, review of first rounds of questions:
1. What media do you recommend?
2. How to clean up the glass?
3. What pressure are you running to the cabinet?
4. I need to pick up a dryer, probably desiccant. Recommendations on what/where to get?
 
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countryroad82

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Mar 18, 2011
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3,447
Location
Kentucky
I'm a big fan of the **** Blast or **** Magic (can't seem to think of the name at this moment) from TP Tools. Recently I just bought some run of the mill glass media from TSC and it's doing well. I've never been a fan of Black Beauty in a cabinet as it clouds up really bad for me even though I have a vacuum on my cabinet. Your glass if it's already scuffed up there isn't really anything that can be done for it that it wouldn't be easier to just have a new piece of glass cut for it then buy or make some protectors for it.
 

dodge610

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Aug 22, 2010
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5,467
Location
North Canton Ohio
Menards if you have one close has some nice fine media that works well. Fairly inexpensive too. Every time I use the black beauty i have clogging issues. I dont think there fine and med. is all the same Allways have to sift it to get it to work does not seem to be uniform in size.
 

arch stanton

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Oct 13, 2013
Messages
57
I use silicon carbide(very low dust) for everyday paint rust removal then walnut shells for non aggressive paint and tarnish removal on aluminum
 

lakeroadster

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Jan 19, 2015
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5,166
Location
Central Colorado
Nickle Slag works great too.

I don't have a cabinet, and media blast in the side yard... Nickle Slag is green. Thus a win / win for any media I don't capture in a tarp.
 
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mopar440_6

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Sep 20, 2015
Messages
133
Location
Carlisle, PA
I've got a small-medium Skat-Blast cabinet. I run the medium and fine Black Beauty from TSC for heavy blasting/rust removal and glass bead from TP Tools (mfg of Skat Blast) for lighter work. My cabinet doesn't like the medium grit Black Beauty, it wants to clog and slug with that stuff but the fine grit runs great. However, it is brutal on the nozzle, air jet, and pickup tube. Expect to replace the nozzle fairly often. Also, the Black Beauty is very dusty even with the big vacuum. We use some silicon carbide at work so I've been looking at getting some for home.

Cheap storage tip for blasting media, if you know someone with cats, have them get the Tidy Cats litter in the 35lb bucket and get the empty buckets. They fit 50lb of media perfect and keep it clean and dry.

If the glass is beat up to the point that you can't see through it, you'll just have to bite the bullet and get a new piece. I generally clean the dust off mine every once in a while with a little Windex and paper towels.

Usually run about 80-90 psi.

Either get a coalescing filter with a reusable element or a desiccant filter. TP Tools, Applied Industrial, or McMaster-Carr are all good sources.
 

kabinenroller

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Sep 14, 2013
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905
Location
S.E. Wisconsin USA
If the glass is beat up to the point that you can't see through it, you'll just have to bite the bullet and get a new piece. I generally clean the dust off mine every once in a while with a little Windex and paper towels.

Are you using the **** Blast glass protectors on the inside of the cabinet? They are flexible, disposable clear sheets that protect the glas panel. I use them and only have to replace them periodicly. One tip- do not use Windex or any glass cleaner that contains ammonia, this will etch the plastic. I use only a cleaner that is designed for acrylic, and a cloth not paper towels.
I also use ceramic nozzles, they cost a little more but last so much longer.
 

mikebaker1129

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Joined
Oct 16, 2014
Messages
1,576
Location
Huffman,TX
I use 100 grit aluminum oxide at 80 psi.
+1 on replacing the glass if it is etched. Protectors do work and are very cheap .
We use a tungsten carbide tip,cost more but lasts along time in our cabinet.
 
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diiulio

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Joined
Nov 14, 2008
Messages
136
Location
Saratoga Springs, NY
Thanks everyone. I will yank it out of the garage this weekend to assess the glass damage if it can be cleaned or if I have to replace. I will hopefully pick up some fine black beauty for this round of blasting because I only have a few pieces for this project and I have been dragging getting this engine together.
I'll get some pics up hopefully next week of the setup and maybe of the engine.
Thanks again.
 

Techie1961

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Feb 18, 2014
Messages
1,520
Location
Pickering Ontario Canada
I am interested in this thread as I have started doing a lot of blasting. I'm currently using recycled glass which seems to be a medium grit from Princess Auto and it serves me okay. I kind of gave up on protecting the window and just went to Lowes and bought a few pieces cut to size. I have replaced it once and they are cheap. Much nicer to be able to see what you're doing and not have to fart around with the plastic sheets.
 

volaredon

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Oct 7, 2012
Messages
1,628
Location
IL
black beauty in the pressure pot, and glass beads in my 2 cabinets/
a larger floor model here at home and a resin/plastic one at work...
on the window, in my machine at home, I have what looks like a picture frame, retained by wing nuts, that holds the glass in. This machine also has a huge vac system built into it and stays very clear. the glass lasts for years (and it gets used alot!) The glass lasts much longer than my previous cabinet blaster, on which just had a port to connect a shop vac to. On both of these, I just went down to the glass shop and had them cut me a few spares, they had "used" glass for this, I guess the larger chunks of broken glass that they'd replaced. Wasnt free but very close. I took my original glass down there to use a sa sample for them to get the measurements from.

On my bench top, the window is plexi, and is also the access door to put your pieces to be blasted into the cabinet thru. On that one I am gonna have to pull it off and go to the hardware store or glass shop and get a piece of replacement plexi and drill the hinge and dead man holes into the replacement plexi.
 
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diiulio

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Joined
Nov 14, 2008
Messages
136
Location
Saratoga Springs, NY
Just for clarification based on larry4406's comment - I am not blasting machined edges. I am blasting pulleys, belt tensioner, outside of oil pan, etc. It is 60 year old paint and surface rust off of exterior parts that I am blasting.
 

dodge610

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Aug 22, 2010
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Location
North Canton Ohio
Just for clarification based on larry4406's comment - I am not blasting machined edges. I am blasting pulleys, belt tensioner, outside of oil pan, etc. It is 60 year old paint and surface rust off of exterior parts that I am blasting.

How did the black beauty work out for you if it starts to clog you may have to screen it to keep the big chunks out.
 

dodge610

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Aug 22, 2010
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5,467
Location
North Canton Ohio
You can get new glass and the rubber seal for it from tp tools they ship rather quickly. You will be sure that it will fit correctly. And the glass protectors are well worth the money in the long run. And really not that expensive compared to the glass itself.
 
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