Bleeder screw

[Bad Ronald]

I have to do front brakes on my 2002 Camry.I am in Ohio so I know it will have rust and corrosion issues.Any tips,tricks for getting the bleeder screws loose would be appreciated.

 

[Eric29]

I usually just soak them and then put a six point box wrench on them and tap the wrench. Sometimes you just have to bite the bullet and hope for the best.

 

[Bigblockyeti]

My solution might not work as well for you, I moved south. In all seriousness, multiple hours long soakings of you favorite penetrating libation followed with a six point something, I prefer sockets as you'll usually have a longer engagement between the bleeder body and the inside of the socket.

 

[SILVERPLATE]

Spray it a couple of times with Kroil, leave it a day and try it again. It works.

 

[pbon]

As others said, Kroil is good. And a socket is good for the initial loosen. I have flare wrenches but try not to use them for the initial loosening because they don’t have as much surface area and can strip. I also agree with the “tap” rather than just pulling it pushing. Tgevsufden application of some force is best to break the stuck bleeder free.

 

[CJM8515]

heat with torch, then touch a candle to the threads/bleeder where it goes into the caliber. works like a charm

 

[Wrench97]

If you are just doing pads and rotors there is no need to bleed them if you can't get them loose don't sweat it.

 

[ollie76]

Eric O has a good video on this on Youtube that's worth checking out. He shows a couple methods and also talks about another method that you can try if they're really rusted in.

 

[gearhead1]

+2 on the Kroil method.

 

[rust in the eye]

If you are just doing pads and rotors there is no need to bleed them if you can't get them loose don't sweat it.

Brake fluid doesn't last forever, it should be bled.
Old Japanese fasteners of any sort scare me. Expect trouble, some good suggestions above.

 

[Wrench97]

Brake fluid doesn't last forever, it should be bled.
Old Japanese fasteners of any sort scare me. Expect trouble, some good suggestions above.

Don't be foolish with the jiffy lube tactics you don't even now what he's working on. If the bleeders don't open, do not cause more problems. If they are that bad it'll need calipers soon enough problem solved.

 

[RKA]

Depends on what condition the car is in. When was the last time the brakes were bled? If they were bled regularly (every 2-3 years) and the bleeder cap is still in place, you might get away with a little penetrating lubricant the day before and a light tug on the wrench or socket (I like a 6 pt mid or deep socket on a breaker bar so I can apply light force clockwise and counter clockwise to see if it will even move).

If they haven’t been bled in a long time or the bleeder cap is gone, buy replacement bleeders in case you need them. Put a torch on them. Get the bleeder HOT but don’t heat up the caliper body too much. As the bleeder is cooling, soak it with penetrant and it will draw into the threads as it cools (like the candle trick mentioned above). Give that an hour to do its thing then try the socket wiggling it back and forth. If it doesn’t seem to be working, don’t apply more force, do the heat and penetrant again. Once you get the torched bleeder out, replace it with a new one. On a car this old in the snow belt, there is probably a greater than 75% chance this will be your path.

They key is to be patient and not apply too much force. The bleeders are soft and the top will snap off rather easily. Choke up on the wrench or breaker so you’re not applying force more than 6” out from the bleeder. Unfortunately the only good way to know how much force is too much is to snap one off. :/. Then it’s pretty clear, but it’s a good life lesson.

 

[lilredex]

Look for some "Tap-A-Sockets" by KD. Allows you to hammer the area around the bleeder screw. Get the proper six point wrenches too.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/TAP-A-SOCKET-5-16-SET-K-D-TOOLS-2510-2PC-LL0779-1-/361110736562

 

[unslow1]

I wouldn't touch them unless I had no choice. Why cause a problem where there isn't one? When you do bleed them plan to have to replace the calipers and make sure you can get them before you even start. This isn't just a Toyota suggestion it's a rust belt one.

 

[Batscat]

Just heat it up with a torch it will come right out.

 

[ChevyEFI]

Buy a bleeder and caliper and have it handy, or have your parts source / spare car lined up. I've driven a car with a front caliper disabled 50 miles, but it *****. Or make sure you can pick up a caliper if needed. Don't do it on Sunday night if you're driving it to work Monday.

Kroil or PB blast or candle wax or whatver it.

Drive it until the caliper is HOT. Lift it and pull the wheelTurn a can of desk duster spray upside down and spray the bleeder.

Get a 6 point wrench or socket and tighten it. Don't try and break it off. All you're doing is getting the threads of the bleeder and caliper body loosened from each other. When you feel it moved, loosen it, again with a 6 point. Have fun.

 

[matt_i]

I've used the torch trick with success when I was in a hurry and didn't have time to presoak it for a week. The bleeder screw is hollow so penetrant can also go down inside of it, so make sure you take the rubber cap off if one is still left on it.

I had one that twisted off and the caliper ended up going onto my milling machine for some left handed drill bit love. The local auto parts haus had a new bleeder screw.

But in that case I ended up having to bleed.

 

[rsanter]

How much are the calipers rebuild? Some are crazy cheap.
I would just replace them and be done. Try to get them out but if they dont, just replace

 

[Bad Ronald]

Thanks for the suggestions.Wish me luck!

 

[Wamsutta]

I was looking to see if anybody mentioned a flare nut wrench. I've used those before if I didn't have a 6-sided bleeder wrench.

 

[dkroth]

Eric O has a good video on this on Youtube that's worth checking out. He shows a couple methods and also talks about another method that you can try if they're really rusted in.

After I snapped one off I used Eric O's method of "heat till red hot then quench with water." Stud extractor brought it right out. I was amazed.





.

 

[bwringer]

Buy a bleeder and caliper and have it handy, or have your parts source / spare car lined up. I've driven a car with a front caliper disabled 50 miles, but it *****. Or make sure you can pick up a caliper if needed. Don't do it on Sunday night if you're driving it to work Monday.

Kroil or PB blast or candle wax or whatver it.

Drive it until the caliper is HOT. Lift it and pull the wheelTurn a can of desk duster spray upside down and spray the bleeder.

Get a 6 point wrench or socket and tighten it. Don't try and break it off. All you're doing is getting the threads of the bleeder and caliper body loosened from each other. When you feel it moved, loosen it, again with a 6 point. Have fun.

Good suggestions. If you simply must move the bleeder for some reason, try all the tricks, but understand the odds are not that great. Have a backup plan if they fail.

And yeah, a reman caliper is stupid cheap. Not something I'd spend a ton of time on, frankly.

Thanks for the suggestions.Wish me luck!

Good luck. May the Spirits of Oxidation look the other way for a bit...

 

[unslow1]

After I snapped one off I used Eric O's method of "heat till red hot then quench with water." Stud extractor brought it right out. I was amazed.





.

I'm waiting to give that a try. Hopefully I never have the need to find out how it works.

 

[dkroth]

I'm waiting to give that a try. Hopefully I never have the need to find out how it works.

I've recently grown to appreciate rebuilt calipers. I wouldn't let a broken bleeder slow down a brake job very much.







.

 

[Bigblockyeti]

I've recently grown to appreciate rebuilt calipers.

Me too, especially seeing a rebuilt caliper with a warranty for under $70 and what should be a $15 rebuilt kit selling for $45, makes the decision a lot easier.

 

[39CAMC]

x11 on the rebuilt caliper. Price the parts out first, I would suspect that they have a loaded caliper for a Toyota dirt cheap...

Otherwise, I have had the best luck with the Kroil/PBlaster soak over multiple days.

DaveW

 

[bwringer]

Let's see, the most durable and common used cars on the planet (the Camry is a perennial best-seller)... yes, of course any random auto parts store is going to have rebuilt calipers on the shelf.

With the usual 20% discount for ordering online, a reman caliper with bracket is $53 at Advance. YMMV, of course.

 

[2001ZR2]

I have used all those methods but was surprised how well the heat and candle method worked. Tapping the calipher is good also. Anything to break the corrosion loose.

Brake fluid is hydroscopic which means it loves water so I bled every new to me vehicle. I do this early in ownership as fighting rusted and leaking lines *****.

Sent from my SM-G975U using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[DGersic]

I also live in the rust belt. A six point socket is your best bet for a wrench. PB Blaster may help, may not, it’s worth a shot. The last ones I did required hammering an undersized socket on to the rounded remains of the bleeder, then backing them out.

Agree with those that said to check parts availability before starting, or have a backup vehicle plan. Not only new bleeders, check in to new calipers and rubber hoses as well. Once you start taking off rusty stuff, you can go pretty deep in to a “simple” project.



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[dkoch1982]

I’ve used kroil soaked for a week. Then tap just under the bleeder with a hammer and sprayed again then I used a knipex pliers popped them out many times. They are so rusted that a socket or a wrench won’t grip them


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[rust in the eye]

Don't be foolish with the jiffy lube tactics you don't even now what he's working on. If the bleeders don't open, do not cause more problems. If they are that bad it'll need calipers soon enough problem solved.

Not Jiffy Lube scare tactics. They wouldn't try for this anyway as it might require mechanical ability.
Leaving rusty fluid in a relatively inexpensive brake caliper is one thing, leaving it in all the lines, master cyl. and $$$ABS unit is another.
Your car, your $$ and your(mostly) safety so suit yourself.

 

[plinker]

Sometimes the bleeder will come loose with a 6pt, other time heat works. A lot of times at work what I see is the bleeder is a ball of rust and there isnt even a recognizable hex shape anymore whether it still has the rubber cap or not. Chances are a caliper on one or the other side wont push back anyway and will end up getting both. Fairly common up here.

I've gotten to the point where on my stuff if it needs brakes, it gets calipers simply because I dont need the hassle of one locking up away from home. Been there done that.

 

[Shadowdog500]

I bought one of these pheonix tools for removing rusted bleeders and really like it. It goes on an air hammer and shakes it loose. Look up shake and brake tool that is commonly used in aviation. It’s the same type of tool.

Here is a video of the tool.

 

[Mick56]

I like to put a gob of grease on the bleeders when I know I'll be working on them in a week or so. In fact, whenever I buy a different car, I gob grease on the bleeders soon after I have bought it. Unless they are already a totally rusted lump, they usually come loose. My last three cars have been Toyota's, and I believe that the steel used in them is better than average. When I've done brakes, I have not had any problems breaking bolts loose, and I am also in the rust belt.