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Blind (Pop) Rivet Question

h~moto

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I have a good selection of pop rivets - aluminum, steel and stainless steel.
I also have some aluminum rivets that have a steel mandrel. I don't know what their application would be. Where would you use an aluminum rivet with a steel mandrel?
 
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BrandonV

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It's cheaper to make them with a steel mandrel. I would worry about galvanic corrosion long term.
 

neophyte

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If the steel is standard carbon or mild steel, then the steel should corrode before the aluminum does, which is better for the integrity of the rivet joint, although it might not look as good.
 

cannuck

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I have built a lot of stuff with Avex alum/steel rivets. My understanding is that you can make a stronger Al part since you have a stronger mandrel to set it. Some of the best blind rivets of all (Cherry Max and Cherry Lock) are aluminum with steel mandrels.
 

toolenthusiast

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Some of the best blind rivets of all (Cherry Max and Cherry Lock) are aluminum with steel mandrels.
Tell me more. I love blind rivets and I use them for all sorts of projects, but my only professional experience with them is occassional use in automotive sheet metal. The OEMs just tell us “use rivet number ABCDE-11234”, end of story. (Even that is rare; it’s more common to see SPRs, welds, weld-bonding, or even joints that are exclusively glued than automotive blind rivets.)
 

imagineer

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My rule of thumb for pop-rivets has been to match the material being riveted to the material of the rivet, i.e, if I'm attaching aluminum to aluminum, use an aluminum rivet. In cases where I've needed to attach aluminum to steel, I'll use a stainless rivet.

On a few projects where weather proofing was a concern I gooped up the mandrel head end with RTV or silicone before setting it.

So far, I've not noticed any corrosion problems due to a steel mandrel.
 
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cannuck

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would these be used to fasten aluminum material only?
Rather than me stumble through it all, here is the Cherry site
These were developed for aviation use, so most often in aluminum.
 

The Cobbler

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not sure why the steel mandrel in an aluminum rivet, but when I was making up replacement window screens, I had to use an aluminum mandrel or the steel would pull thru the aluminum channel before it snapped
 

cannuck

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not sure why the steel mandrel in an aluminum rivet, but when I was making up replacement window screens, I had to use an aluminum mandrel or the steel would pull thru the aluminum channel before it snapped
Is it possible you drilled the hole too large? Preparing the hole and surfaces around the holes are the most important steps in setting any kind of rivet.

(on edit) you wrote "screens" and I read "doors"! Yeah, the very thin and soft frames for screen would require either a very small rivet or one with not much pull. What size were you using? Hole size still VERY important.
 
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The Cobbler

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mostly 1/8" rivets to hold various clips on the thin aluminum frames. the steel mandrel was too tough and would pull the rivet thru the hole before it broke. no problem with aluminum mandrels
 

The Cobbler

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Is it possible you drilled the hole too large? Preparing the hole and surfaces around the holes are the most important steps in setting any kind of rivet.

(on edit) you wrote "screens" and I read "doors"! Yeah, the very thin and soft frames for screen would require either a very small rivet or one with not much pull. What size were you using? Hole size still VERY important.


mostly 1/8" rivets to hold various clips on the thin aluminum frames. the steel mandrel was too tough and would pull the rivet thru the hole before it broke. no problem with aluminum mandrels
 
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