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Block vs wood frame

FlameOut

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Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
I'm just about ready to start on my 28 x 34 garage, but now it seems I could probably have it all block vs wood frame. This is just what I was told buy the guy that will dig my footer.

If doing wood frame, I will be doing most, if not all of the work, but if I go with block, I'll have someone else do it, and have the block done in a weekend, and I know it would take me at least a month to build myself on my days off

Is there any advantage/disadvantage to having wood frame? A drawback with block I think it will be more difficult to hang all of my cabinets and things like that.

Anyone know what an average cost is per block to lay? I'm sure it varies from area to area, but this guy said it's about $1.00 a block here in western PA (I think the 8" block itself is around $2.50 each) and I think I'd need right around 1600 block total. I was going with 10' walls, and 2 9x9 doors, 1 36" man door and a few windows, so that is about $6,000 or so for material and labor?

One other thing, what would be an average cost do dig a footer this size 42" deep? He said it should only take a day

Wow, I'm already getting a headache and it's all just down on paper
 
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BillK

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Beautiful Southern Maryland
Flame,

If I had the choice and the cost is not much different, I would definitely go with the block. One thing to think about if you do though .... in your area you might want to have it filled with insulation while it is being built. The last building I had my shop in was block and it was filled with some type of granular insulation. That place was very inexpensive to heat and cool.

The other nice thing about block, at least in this area is that you can build much closer to your property line compared to a framed structure. Has to do with fire safety.
 

krooser

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Jun 3, 2005
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Waupaca, Wisconsin
A block building will be cheaper to insure. I like 'em.

It's easy to mount stuff on the wall... you just use wall anchors... no big deal. Or you can frame out the walls with 2/4's layed on their sides and you can put any kind of sheathing over the studs...
 

dpledford

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Jan 29, 2009
Messages
17
Location
Western PA
I'm just about ready to start on my 28 x 34 garage, but now it seems I could probably have it all block vs wood frame. This is just what I was told buy the guy that will dig my footer.

If doing wood frame, I will be doing most, if not all of the work, but if I go with block, I'll have someone else do it, and have the block done in a weekend, and I know it would take me at least a month to build myself on my days off

Is there any advantage/disadvantage to having wood frame? A drawback with block I think it will be more difficult to hang all of my cabinets and things like that.

Anyone know what an average cost is per block to lay? I'm sure it varies from area to area, but this guy said it's about $1.00 a block here in western PA (I think the 8" block itself is around $2.50 each) and I think I'd need right around 1600 block total. I was going with 10' walls, and 2 9x9 doors, 1 36" man door and a few windows, so that is about $6,000 or so for material and labor?

One other thing, what would be an average cost do dig a footer this size 42" deep? He said it should only take a day

Wow, I'm already getting a headache and it's all just down on paper

Remember when you are calculating size if you go over 1000SF you will have to have the building inspected. This is according to the new PA building code enacted a couple of years ago. Unless it is attached then it will have to be inspected anyway.

Also I did not see roof and floor pricing in your post. Check out some builders north of you. I have seen two in the Area Shopper advertising 24X32 pole buildings complete including labor with cement floors, vinyl siding, shingle roof, and two single O/H doors with a man door for $13,500.00

Metal pole buildings 38X40 less floor for less than $10,000.00.
 

walrus

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Maine
Is there any advantage/disadvantage to having wood frame? A drawback with block I think it will be more difficult to hang all of my cabinets and things like that.

You going to heat the building? I like insulation, how you going to do that with block?
 

walrus

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One way to do it was explained in post #2.

I guess it depends on where you live. Filling the voids in concrete blocks isn't what I would consider insulated in a cold weather climate. That leaves the web of the block as a conductor to the outside temp.
 

patrick66

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Feb 20, 2009
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OK
My old shop was block construction. The only thing I did not care about it, was that it would mold in a couple of places, due to a lack of air circulation in those areas. I know tornadoes are not prevalent in PA, but mine was destroyed in a tornado in OK five years ago...the walls collapsed; one went in, one went out, and one folded on itself (the fourth was the house wall), so they are definitely NOT storm-proof!

I rebuilt the shop as a 38' x 68' metal building, on the old foundation.
 

Ironcrow

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Arizona
I pay about half your price for block. Maybe you could do better to shop around. $1.00 per block labor is about right. I like block better than wood.
 

Ironcrow

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Arizona
My old shop was block construction... destroyed in a tornado in OK five years ago...the walls collapsed; one went in, one went out, and one folded on itself (the fourth was the house wall), so they are definitely NOT storm-proof!
Construction details? Mine is 8 and 12 inch block, two #5 rebars in every cell, and poured full of 3000 psi grout. I know nothing is tornado proof, but I'd only worry about a direct hit. If my garage goes, the cars, entire house, and the cats are already goners.
 

russlaferrera

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Central Virginia
Shop around. They make air-light block. It is lighter and a has better insulation factor. There are companies that can cast sections of walls, made out of this stuff.
 
OP
F

FlameOut

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Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Thanks for all of the good advice. So far I got 1 price for labor for the block, and he wanted $2.50 per block to lay, so if that is the norm, then block is out, or I'll attempt it myself.

I never got a price on trusses or floor yet. Was planning on 4/12 for roof, and probably 4 to 5" depth for the floor, so that should be between 11 and 13 yards. I actually have a relative that does concrete, so that should help. I think it's around $100 a yard around here. I have no idea what the trusses will cost.

Pat (from Slippery Rock), you have any idea of that company name that does the pole buildings?

I also was a little high on those block prices. They 8" go for around $1.42, 10" $1.72, so that will save me about $1500. Now if I can find someone to lay them for around $1.00 each.

The guy doing my footer said it should be between $1000-$1200.
 
Last edited:

dpledford

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Jan 29, 2009
Messages
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Location
Western PA
Pat (from Slippery Rock), you have any idea of that company name that does the pole buildings?

.

The Area Shoppe is now online; theareashopper.com. It has a lot of wholesale building products if you decide to do your own construction.

Here's what I found that I was looking for:

BUILDINGGARAGES
24x32 garage, vinyl
siding, 30 year single
roof, cement floor, (2)
9x7 insulated overhead
doors, (3) vinyl
windows, 1 man door,
complete with soffit &
facia. Includes excavation
of building site.
$13,500. Call for
prices on other styles
& sizes/ residental,
commercial, agricultural.
J.M. Warren
Construction. 814-
827-6081 or 814-
671

Also Found:

Knepp Buildings, 30X40X10 Metal building $9975.00, I believe less floor.

Hostetler Construction no prices.

24X32 for 13,500.00 No name on Contractor, I think they are Amish 814-720-9775.

Hope this helps.

I checked out your 67. Nice Skyline. I lived in Mount Washing for a couple of years with my grandfather, riding the inclines was a real trip.
 

Kevin54

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Urbana, Ohio
Around here it is/was $1.25/block to lay them and $2.50/block for termite blocks (no holes) Footers are around $250-350 to dig below frost line. On a personal note, block is stronger and if you have weather that t gets hot out, block tends to be cooler. But you can also have moisture problems if not done correctly. I have seen a few houses that were built out of cement block and all had moisture problems, so insulation would be a must. To do that you would need to use foam panels either on the outside and cover it, or use foam panels on the inside and either leave it or cover it. One member on here built a heck of a cement block garage, but covered it with foam panels for insulation, firred it out, and then sided over the top. From the outside, you could not tell it was a cement block garage.
Myself, I prefer wood. For the ease of a DIY'er I found it easier to run wiring, insulation, finishing off. My BIL's business was a block building and all the wiring had to be ran through conduit, tapcons or anchors to the walls to hang anything, either constantly painting the outside or inside or so it seemed, and then the moisture.
 
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rinny_tin_tin

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Northern Virginia
Thanks for all of the good advice. So far I got 1 price for labor for the block, and he wanted $2.50 per block to lay, so if that is the norm, then block is out, or I'll attempt it myself.

I never got a price on trusses or floor yet. Was planning on 4/12 for roof, and probably 4 to 5" depth for the floor, so that should be between 11 and 13 yards. I actually have a relative that does concrete, so that should help. I think it's around $100 a yard around here. I have no idea what the trusses will cost.

Pat (from Slippery Rock), you have any idea of that company name that does the pole buildings?

I also was a little high on those block prices. They 8" go for around $1.42, 10" $1.72, so that will save me about $1500. Now if I can find someone to lay them for around $1.00 each.

The guy doing my footer said it should be between $1000-$1200.


Don't do block by yourself unless you have done it before and you have years of experience and a crew to help - otherwise - you will wish you paid the guy $5.00 per block
 

Charles (in GA)

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Jan 11, 2006
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50 mi south of Atlanta
My old shop was block construction. The only thing I did not care about it, was that it would mold in a couple of places, due to a lack of air circulation in those areas. I know tornadoes are not prevalent in PA, but mine was destroyed in a tornado in OK five years ago...the walls collapsed; one went in, one went out, and one folded on itself (the fourth was the house wall), so they are definitely NOT storm-proof!

I rebuilt the shop as a 38' x 68' metal building, on the old foundation.

Small tornado here about three years ago collapsed a small block workshop nearby. It was (my guess) about 20x25 at the max, with a tin roof and those old iron framed pivoting windows, turned to a pile of rubble. Old wood framed house about 50 ft away was untouched.

Charles
 

IHI

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Mar 6, 2008
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Location
Iowa
Man, you guys have some cheap labor: ours break down like this:

Footers are $55-60/LF for trench footings 12"widex42" deep tamped, poured, rebarred
Block here is running $5/block installed obviously

Figure the amount of block by multiplying the liner feet around the perimeter and multiplying it by .75- this will give you the amount of block PER COURSE, so then just multiply that number by the number of courses needed to achieve wall height.
 

M. MYERS

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Nov 29, 2005
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BATON ROUGE, LOUSIANA
Down here:

Block $1.25

Labor per block $3.00

40 x 60 x 14 eve + gables

Rebar crossed every 3 feet vertical and horizontal,

Second one , wouldn't change a thing.

See link

Melvin
 
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FlameOut

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Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
I think I'm leaning more toward the block, if I can get it laid for a decent price. I'm still in the planning stages, so I'm sure it's going to be a PITA when I go down to try to get my permits. When I said above the guy doing my footer wanted $1000 to $1200, that was only for digging. I'd be responsible for rebar and concrete. Is that price high?

Melvin, I tried looking at your photos, but there were none where the link took me
 
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muaythaitom

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Dec 2, 2008
Messages
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I don't know if that is a high price or not---I have never had a garage and am a new guy here, but you can rent a backhoe by me for $200 for the day. I have a skidsteer with a 5' bucket and a hydraulic trenching bucket, so I am hoping to use that and save some dough. I think the concrete for mine was gonna be something like $2500, but I wnated to go 6"thick
 

Mikea57

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May 28, 2008
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Olive Branch, MS
FlameOut,
I had the same problem with Melvin's photos. Then I noticed the list of categories on the left. Shop is the bottom item. That's a great looking shop he's got.
 

M. MYERS

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BATON ROUGE, LOUSIANA
Flame out,
Do like Mike did and go to the list on the left that says ALBUMS.
Click on the last one that says shop.
Have a lot more things done in it, will update soon.
I like it because of the thermal mass, no sweat problems, warm in winter, cool in summer.

Mel
 

Ironcrow

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Arizona
Small tornado here about three years ago collapsed a small block workshop nearby. It was (my guess) about 20x25 at the max, with a tin roof and those old iron framed pivoting windows, turned to a pile of rubble. Old wood framed house about 50 ft away was untouched.

Charles
Yeah, but what's going on really? Typically a tornado shelter built into a wood frame house is reinforced block. I'd expect the result to be a pile of lumber surrounding an undamaged concrete vault.
 

klmspider

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Nov 25, 2013
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Uniontown, Ohio
Forget thermal insulation within block. The heat transfer through the solid part of the block negates all but a sliver of value- just not worth it. Use other techniques to insulate fully, framed inside with your favorite insulation between, or extruded polystyrene board, for instance. Protect the styrene from heat and flame!
 

coljar

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Sep 26, 2010
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Belpre, Ohio
I have a 1500 sq. ft. block garage and a 1500 sq. ft. new pole garage. The block garage is cold in the winter and hot in the summer. Damp also at times. The pole has 6' insulation and is comfortable and is easy to heat and cool. Four of my friends have block garages and all of them say they would build a pole or stick garage if they had to do it over again.
 

Gary S

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Dec 27, 2008
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Bismarck, ND
I agree with walrus. Wood is more energy efficient and easier to insulate. Unless block is a lot cheaper, I'd do wood. If you want a temperature stable building, you want wood.
 

k p

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Feb 6, 2013
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Ontario, Canada
I have a block garage and it is a pain in the *** in every way. Hanging things on the wall and installing new electrical have been my latest frustrations. The thing is damn cold too, the blocks just soak up the cold and it gets transmitted right through to the inside. Even if you could insulate the air gaps within the blocks as it was being built it probably wouldn't make any real difference. The ribs in the block are thermally connecting the outside air to the inside air, it'll be cold in the winter as if those walls weren't even there. If I had the choice I'd use wood for sure.
 
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