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Block wall door framing ?

lilbill

Active member
Joined
Jun 7, 2010
Messages
33
Location
Hot Springs Ar
Well after lurking and envying here for a number of years I've finally gotten to the point where I can begin construction of my "retirement" shop. It will be a 60x40 block building with a wood truss/metal roof system. The footer is in, the perimeter retaining wall is going up and the subs are standing by for their turns. I know it's pretty late in the game but I still haven't decided on windows and doors. I have found a good deal on a 18x8 and a 9x8 folding garage door that I will probably use (still dickering with the owner) . What I am in need of right now is advice or instruction on the best way to frame in these doors in 12 ft high block walls. Like how should the 8" blocks be layed and the lintel built ? Also slab threshold detail and how should the rough opening be sized and built ? I've looked on here and the web and found a lot of different practices but I'd like to hear from them whats done it.

Here's a pic of my beginnings
 

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kbs2244

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Joined
Nov 11, 2006
Messages
14,065
What is a “folding garage door??”
The common panel overhead door uses a rough opening equal to the door width.
Since these doors slide along the inside face of the wall the wood framing that goes in the rough block opening provides the finish opening size.

If your folding design is different you will have to exam the framing needs to determine the rough opening.

A good mason will order “end blocks” that have a smooth end intended to be exposed at the sides of these openings vs. the ends on the “stretcher” blocks that are designed to meet each other.
 

kd3pc

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Joined
Aug 10, 2013
Messages
3,630
Location
Northern Neck
If it truly is going to be your retirement place, I would seriously look at a 4' wide man door...so your bases are covered as you get older or find you need a chair or walker for a bit.

other wise, as kbs says, the mason should be well versed in the opening prep and lintel height, and sash tilt...

best of luck
 
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RivennHewn

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 4, 2011
Messages
10,374
Location
PNW
You really need an engineer to size the header/lintel above your door.

How much block it's carrying plus roof loads, will determine lintel size and how much bearing surface it needs on either side of the door.
 

chops101

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 15, 2013
Messages
554
Location
S. FL
So you're asking how it's done in different areas, here to meet wind code/building code, a cast-in-place bond beam is used as prescribed by the structural engineer. They are 8" wide, the same as the block, but at minimum 12" tall and run the perimeter topside of the wall. Sometimes called tie beams.

These horizontal bond beams have typically (4) #5 rebar, 2 at the top of the cast and 2 at the bottom.
For each opening (window, door), a closed cell column is required on each side using rebar that ties into the slab and into the bond beam vertically.

The engineer also prescribes a closed cell/rebar column every x number of feet and in corners.

Probably overkill where you are but this CBS construction doesn't blow away too easily.
 
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