Has anyone done blown in cellulose insulation in the walls of their pole building? If so, how do you think it compares to bats? Was thinking about doing this myself and, if my calculations are correct, can be done cheaper than bats. The part I'm uncertain of though is, since I just have the walls framed up (2x4 24" OC), do I put the wall covering up first or do I put up the blanket material first? Would appreciate your thoughts.
Blown in cellulose insulation
- Thread starter Sigo
- Start date
I used blown in batts when I built my garage. You put up the wall covering first and then blown in to the empty wall sections. When the wall covering expands enough you move the hose to a different area. I don't think it was quite as easy as just sticking the hose in and blowing.
Good Luck.
Lou
Good Luck.
Lou
ssdave
Banned
My brother worked in the energy efficiency research field for awhile. Blown in cellulose insulation tested as some of the best overall for energy efficiency compared to batts, blown in fiberglass, rigid foam, etc. Its advantages were that it was much more air tight than many others, as it helped control infiltration/exfiltration. It is less forgiving of moisture, though, as it doesn't dry out well. It also is attractive to rodents, so unless you're extremely rodent tight with all your framing and covering, that can cause problems.
Personally, in a pole building or something similar that has a good chance of getting moisture in it and is exposed to risk of rodents, I would go with fiberglass batts.
Personally, in a pole building or something similar that has a good chance of getting moisture in it and is exposed to risk of rodents, I would go with fiberglass batts.
LandofRath
Well-known member
I used to work on an Insulation blow truck for 3-4 years and I can say the only time we ever blew insulation into walls was on really old existing homes where there was limited options. Most of them were getting resided at the time so is was easy to patch the holes. No matter how well you blow it in, you miss spots due to wiring, plumbing, fireblocks ect. Another issue is every time you find a need to cut into your walls you will have a mess on your hands where batts tend to stay in place. This is from my experience, In other locations it may be different.
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
There are 2 ways to "blow" cellulose, wet or dry. The wet has some moisture (and maybe adhesive ?) so it will stick to the surface you are spraying it on. I don''t think this application is DIY. You do need to apply an inner wall soon because it is not going to stick there solid like foam.
Dry cellulose is definitely a DIY. You do need an interior wall (maybe leave the top 6"-12" open) or "scrim"/netting to hold the insulation as you ill the cavity from the top.
Cellulose is a good choice. It is treat for fire resistance and insect resistance. Typically less than fiberglass or mineral. It will settle some over time so try to pack it full.
Any insulation job depends on how well the building is sealed before you start. The best way to seal up a pole barn is to hire a spray foam contractor to foam all the seams and joints. This will make a big difference.
Dry cellulose is definitely a DIY. You do need an interior wall (maybe leave the top 6"-12" open) or "scrim"/netting to hold the insulation as you ill the cavity from the top.
Cellulose is a good choice. It is treat for fire resistance and insect resistance. Typically less than fiberglass or mineral. It will settle some over time so try to pack it full.
Any insulation job depends on how well the building is sealed before you start. The best way to seal up a pole barn is to hire a spray foam contractor to foam all the seams and joints. This will make a big difference.
Schurkey
Well-known member
My experience with DIY blow-in cellulose is that it settles...a lot.
My other experience is that the rental blowers supplied by the folks selling the insulation is that you'll be lucky if they don't catch fire. I've done about 5 DIY blow-in attics; all but one had rental-blower problems. Typically, the electric motor of the blower machine is packed full of insulation, so it overheats. Either the motor shuts down from thermal overload, or it outright flames, including shooting burning particles out the discharge hose.
Use compressed air to blow the motor clean of cellulose.
4cyclic
Well-known member
Just did dense pack cellulose insulation in my new pole barn in walls. You have to use insulweb or similar netting stapled tightly to the framing, then cut small holes to insert a 2 inch wand and blow it in. If it's dense packed correctly, there is no settling at all.
Of course a good powerful blower is a must. Most harware store carry just a basic unit good for attics but not for walls.
Of course a good powerful blower is a must. Most harware store carry just a basic unit good for attics but not for walls.
Since the ceiling isn't finished, I was thinking of putting up OSB on the walls and blowing in the insulation from the top of the wall. Any thoughts on this approach? Also, would you guys advise blown in fiberglass over the cellulose?
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K'ledgeBldr
Well-known member
It just doesn't work as easy as it sounds!
When blowing, the air has to have a way to escape. If the only way out is the same it came in- it's just a mess; you have just as much flying everywhere as you do in the wall! This is why you use the netting- it allows you to disperse the material throughout the cavity and the air can easily escape throughout the netting.
Suffice it to say, doing batts is less expensive/time consuming and no added worries with moisture- especially with a pole barn.
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
Insulation value is about the same. Cost is not. I would go with cellulose and follow 4cyclic suggestions !
Insulation via Insulweb Installation
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Sure does, this is a wall in my garage I had to open up. About 30 yrs old at that point. To use it in walls, you want to put supports every 3 ft or so vertically to support it. I honestly don't see how they had any expectation of it working worth a damn.
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ForceFed70
Well-known member
As others have said - I'd only recommend it when the walls are already finished. It's too cumbersome to do, you can't see what you're doing, and has a tendency to settle.
If it's done perfectly and doesn't settle - minor improvement in R value. You won't see that with a DIY job tho.
Fiberglass batt or upgrade to rockwool batt - but I'd personally only consider blown in for the attic/ceiling area.
If it's done perfectly and doesn't settle - minor improvement in R value. You won't see that with a DIY job tho.
Fiberglass batt or upgrade to rockwool batt - but I'd personally only consider blown in for the attic/ceiling area.
Dragfluid
ALLIANCE MEMBER
This argument comes up every once in a while.
DENSE PACK blown in cellulose is dollar for dollar more effective. Stops air infiltration, and does a wonderful job of fire retardation.
It's not as simple as having a finished wall and sticking the hose on top and blowing it in. As has been previously stated, you staple netting over your girts and blow it in at different levels. You "dense pack" it in, and it won't settle. You need a machine that can produce an ample amount of static pressure. Not all rental machines can do this. Menards has the Kendl 425 dual circuit, which is big enough. Some rental centers have the Force 2, which will also do it. The Force 1 will not. I was fortunate to have a cellulose manufacturer 10 miles away. They shipped it over with a semi, on pallets, and I unloaded it with the skidloader. I've got some pictures on my build thread. I could type more, but there's lots of info and videos of the process that you can find with a minimal amount of searching.
DENSE PACK blown in cellulose is dollar for dollar more effective. Stops air infiltration, and does a wonderful job of fire retardation.
It's not as simple as having a finished wall and sticking the hose on top and blowing it in. As has been previously stated, you staple netting over your girts and blow it in at different levels. You "dense pack" it in, and it won't settle. You need a machine that can produce an ample amount of static pressure. Not all rental machines can do this. Menards has the Kendl 425 dual circuit, which is big enough. Some rental centers have the Force 2, which will also do it. The Force 1 will not. I was fortunate to have a cellulose manufacturer 10 miles away. They shipped it over with a semi, on pallets, and I unloaded it with the skidloader. I've got some pictures on my build thread. I could type more, but there's lots of info and videos of the process that you can find with a minimal amount of searching.
Dragfluid
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I would venture to say that the cellulose in that wall cavity wasn't properly filled in the first place, or it wouldn't have settled like that. Also, when you dense pack, you don't want a bunch of "dividers" every 3 feet.
I have no idea what the original intent was (dense or loose) and I wondered if they left insulation out of that area on purpose, to keep the water line from freezing.
I take it fire blocking is not Code in your area?
Dragfluid
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I'm glad that you mentioned that, as I forgot to mention that halfway (7') up, I put a 2x4 in the cavity. Not for a fire block, but to assist with the shear weight of all that cellulose. This was recommended by the manufacturer. With 14' of 8 1/2" of cellulose, it could actually compress some and leave a gap at the top. Adding the divider in the center helps prevent that.
Watch the video that I posted. Very interesting. It compares the burn time of 3 identical structures with no insulation, fiberglass bats, and dense pack cellulose.
Sounds like most folks are using bats. In my pole building, I have 6x6 posts. I've put up my interior walls (2x4) flush with the inside face of the 6x6 posts. I did get the building wrap put on the exterior before the metal went on. Before I posed this question, I got started with kraft-faced R-19 between the studs and this seems to leave about a 1 - 1 1/2 inch air space between the insulation and the exterior wall.
So, given this situation, R-19 between the 2x4 studs? Faced or unfaced?
So, given this situation, R-19 between the 2x4 studs? Faced or unfaced?
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