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Blown in or batt insulation

FarmerSid

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 12, 2005
Messages
145
Location
Ontario, Canada
Hey all! Looking to pick your minds for a minute. I'm starting to think about insulating my 36'X40' shop. I have a full second floor above my shop. The floor joists are 2"X10" on 2' centers. Money is getting very tight now so I'm weighing all my options. A buddy suggested that I put up vapour barrier and then use blown in insulation as opposed to batts as blown in is cheaper. I could do the same for the walls. Any suggestions on why I would or why I wouldn't want to do it this way would be great.

Cheers!

Sid
 
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JCByrd24

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 21, 2005
Messages
493
Location
Bath, ME
Don't see any reason not too. It is about half the cost and nicer to work with on a big scale. No itchyness from the fiberglass. For small jobs its not worth the machine rental in terms of time or money. But on big jobs its definitely worth it. We got the machine for free with 20 bags at HD.
 

mike944

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 18, 2006
Messages
337
Location
Vernon, CT
Blown in cellulose. Definitely. I hate fiberglass. I itch for days. Blown-in is also much quicker to install. One person with the hose, blowing it wherever you want, and one person emptying bags into the machine.
 

toolfreak

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 8, 2006
Messages
1,273
Location
Illinois
Definitely blow in insulation. I used it for the first time to insulate the attic in my house and it is faster and easier plus it was cheaper. I went to Lowes and if you buy 20 bags they will let you use the blower for free.
 
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F

FarmerSid

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 12, 2005
Messages
145
Location
Ontario, Canada
Thanks for all the opinions people. I appreciate it. Will this stuff stand the test of time or last as long or perform as long as pink?

Cheers!

Sid
 
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kbs2244

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 11, 2006
Messages
14,065
No vapor barrier above a heated area. On the walls, yes.
This is assuming you use the upstairs as an unheated storage area, and that it is well ventulated.
Check out your house. The idea is to keep any moisture out of the walls where there is no air circulation. But to let the normal moisture perk it's way up into the attic and disapate.
If you plan to wash cars or park cars with lots of snow packed in the wheel wells, then you have a temporary high humidty period that should be force vented directly outside. Just like your bathroom vent when you take a shower. You only use it when you need it.
 

BowtieNut

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 31, 2005
Messages
138
Location
MN
It costs more, but I plan on staying at my place for a long time, so I didn't want to cut corners, and I went with fiberglass. I did alot of reading/research before doing mine, and to me it seemed like fiberglass was hands down better, except for cost. Also, cellulose weighs more, and I would have been pushing the limit of my sheetrock ceiling if I had gone cellulose at the R-value that I wanted. With fiberglass I was able to get the R-value I wanted and was still only like 1/4 of the weight rating of the sheetrock. Maybe it would have been fine, but I didn't want to take the chance of the ceiling getting wavy or saggy.

For mine I did unfaced batts in the walls, then plastic vapor barrier, then sheetrock. For the ceiling I did the plastic vapor barrier, then sheetrock, and then blew the fiberglass in. Putting the batts in the walls is a little itchy, but blowing in the attic is 10x easier, and not itchy at all. I wore long pants, long shirt, gloves, and a little dust mask, and it didn't bother me in the least bit. It was the first time I've ever done it, and I'd gladly do it again. Same as the others here, the blower was free for a day at Menards with the purchase of the insulation.
 

gcan

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 30, 2006
Messages
152
Location
Alabama
I plan on using blown in the ceiling and bats in the walls mainly for the ease of nstallation. But after reading this may have to rethink the ceiling because I am going to use 1/4" plywood for my ceiling....will blown make it sag?
 

kbs2244

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 11, 2006
Messages
14,065
On 2 foot centers your quarter inch plywood will support anything reasonable. Put it up so the face grain is going across the 2 foot gap, not with it. It is stiffer that way. That way either fiberglass or cellulose up to the full 10 inchs of your joists will be OK. If you want to put down a floor up there for storage, it will protect the insulation.
If you do put a vapor barrier on the celing, put it below the insulation. The rule is vapor barriers go on the warm side of the wall. Otherwise you are trapping the moisture in the insulation, where the warm to cold change takes place. It will condense and / or freeze in there, and you have a mold or rot problem.
 
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