OP
gearhead9056
Well-known member
No I haven't tested it, I guess I haven't even thought about it
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Blown up compressor tank
- Thread starter gearhead9056
- Start date
It looks like it definitely blew from the bottom, unwrapped and hit the wall. So if it was rusty on the bottom, and you only had it a year, do you know the previous 16yrs of history behind it? Did you look it over real good? I am thinking maybe the PO tried to weld over some leaks before selling it. was it repainted?
I got rid of a 20 gal horizontal compressor that was around 22 yrs. old because tank was rusty and leaking at some pinholes around the drain. It didn't blow, just leaked. I was told if I welded it and sealed the leak, it would leave the metal too thin and weak and would probably blow up. Maybe that's what the PO did??
I got rid of a 20 gal horizontal compressor that was around 22 yrs. old because tank was rusty and leaking at some pinholes around the drain. It didn't blow, just leaked. I was told if I welded it and sealed the leak, it would leave the metal too thin and weak and would probably blow up. Maybe that's what the PO did??
tdkkart
Well-known member
Really bothers me that the welds on both end caps failed completely, both caps are completely separated from the tank.
Zeke
Well-known member
I don't know, yours was black inside and the one in the linked video was rust colored.
Jay Sco
Well-known member
Holy ****! I used to drain mine after every use but have gotten away from that practice lately. Might be good to start doing that again, regardless wether that was a factor here or not.
Bronson
Well-known member
I just unplugged My Craftsman 60 gallon upright oiless.
It has been bubbling under the paint for a year or so, and I have been thinking, "just one more month". Done. Cutting it up with the torch.
It has been bubbling under the paint for a year or so, and I have been thinking, "just one more month". Done. Cutting it up with the torch.
OP
gearhead9056
Well-known member
Actually its dark gray paint its just hard to tell with the valley phone pic but the whole inside was painted other than a strip right at the bottom that was rusted
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I literally shut down my shop yesterday to drain and inspect my 60 gal tank. I pulled the large plugs and went in with led lights and inspection mirror then went back with an easy reach extension on my drain with a quick flip ball valve to drain after each use now.
This is scary, regardless how it happened.
This is scary, regardless how it happened.
Some pressure vessels require pressure testing with a liquid on a regular basis. Examples are portable fire extinguishers, welding tanks, 5 gallon and larger propane tanks, trucks and trailers hauling pressurized gasses. I have never been able to figure how compressors are not on the list.
As to rust, when we prepare a fire extinguisher for a pressure test, we check for internal rust, as does our pressure tester. It is a judgement call, but excessive rust will cause the cylinder to be condemned. Dents, gouges, and external rust and corrosion will also remove a cylinder from service.
As to rust, when we prepare a fire extinguisher for a pressure test, we check for internal rust, as does our pressure tester. It is a judgement call, but excessive rust will cause the cylinder to be condemned. Dents, gouges, and external rust and corrosion will also remove a cylinder from service.
Rickedstyles
Well-known member
Crazy that the osha report concluded possibly wrong oil could cause one to explode..never would have thought that
ZRX61
Well-known member
I'm wondering about Glyptal.
JakeKohl
Well-known member
Huh...neither have I. I changed the oil in my compressor not too long ago and wondered about tossing in some generic 30 weight instead of "compressor oil". I stuck with the labeled stuff for that application...but dang.
OP
gearhead9056
Well-known member
I would guess the wrong oil could end up going past the rings more than compressor oil, and when the vapors are under pressure they would become fairly combustible or something along those lines
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I heard nearly the same thing, just recently.
Gearhead, were there isolaters on the tanks's feet or was it rigid?
38Chevy454
Well-known member
It does seem probable that being bolted down firm could cause a fatigue crack to initiate and propagate. By design an air compressor is a vibration inducing machine with a lot of cyclic stress. It is also subject to pressure and temperature fluctuations, which both would add to the vibration induced stresses. Without being able to see the close-up fracture surface, it is speculation if this was the cause. However it does add an interesting question to investigate.
I doubt that your compressor oil would have made good diesel fuel.
OP
gearhead9056
Well-known member
It had think poly suspension bushings for isolators
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rsieracki
Well-known member
skimming over this thread and othere's about similar explotions has convinced me to scrap the two 60 gal air tanks i have been saving to 'build' a compressor and just save my money and buy once next time zoro has a sale...
OP
gearhead9056
Well-known member
Actually oil works quite well as diesel but in my previous post I just meant if it got hot enough/ over pressure/ exterior spark source kind of situation would be what OSHA would find to explode
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Sorry, I just don't see it as a plausible explanation.
b-body-bob
Well-known member
One of the few things I took away from High School Lit classes is that paper burns at Fahrenheit 451, so what temperature does it take to get 30wt oil vapors to ignite?
This page gives some values, but from scanning it, I don't see any evidence that compressed air gets nearly hot enough to do the trick without a spark or flame.
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/fuels-ignition-temperatures-d_171.html
dodis
Member
Haven't even been lurking here for a while, too busy. But came back today and just finished read all this thread.
I too have an old Rand 4000 compressor, and they are under recall, because of tank failures.
http://www.cpsc.gov/en/Recalls/2002...e-Air-Compressors-Sold-Between-1983-and-1991/
Bought mine new, and have drained the tank regularly when in use, and am still using it. But because of the recall and the age of my compressor, I have been looking into a replacement tank. The motor and compressor don't have too much time on them, plus it spent 7 years in storage while I was an apartment dweller.
Now if I could just find a 30 gallon or so vertical tank that doesn't cost more than a new complete compressor... All my searches have only turned up some high $ sources. I'll just keep at it, or eventually end up with a new one...
I too have an old Rand 4000 compressor, and they are under recall, because of tank failures.
http://www.cpsc.gov/en/Recalls/2002...e-Air-Compressors-Sold-Between-1983-and-1991/
Bought mine new, and have drained the tank regularly when in use, and am still using it. But because of the recall and the age of my compressor, I have been looking into a replacement tank. The motor and compressor don't have too much time on them, plus it spent 7 years in storage while I was an apartment dweller.
Now if I could just find a 30 gallon or so vertical tank that doesn't cost more than a new complete compressor... All my searches have only turned up some high $ sources. I'll just keep at it, or eventually end up with a new one...
OP
gearhead9056
Well-known member
I don't really either, I was just thinking out loud about how OSHA could see its valid
packofqtips
Well-known member
def. looks like over pressurizing or bad welds, rusty tanks will leak from pinholes not explode. i see plenty of rusty tanks on the transit buses i work on and they never explode, they just get pinhole leaks and then we replace them
Durka
Well-known member
Hey, your correct. The stopping and starting reciprocating piston compressors can cause shock waves and diesel type combustion. Specially if the system is contaminated. Determined, documented by OSHA and The US Navy. They worked together on that from what I recall.
Its more apt to happen with the use of different type oils and the mixing of chemical detergents. OSHA has it, or the way I understood it rather, - IF you decide to use different type oil in any way, - the pump must be dismantled and cleaned free from contaminates before hand. Other wise yah, it can be a dangerous mix.
Might be why IR won't warranty their pumps if anything was used other than their all season select oil...Just a hunch.
Just think about it. If your air compressor was creating flammable gas mixtures, you'd be nuts to use it without a back-flow preventer like the ones they use on acetylene gas hoses. You'd be nuts to use an air grinder and create sparks near the exhaust port of the tool. It defies common sense.
marinusdees
Well-known member
I thought I understood English. What does this mean??
Holy ****. I wonder if a piece of rust or something got stuck in the relief valve and plugged it? Or maybe some excess thread tape from installation? I've had this happen with the cheap screw open type drain ***** they put on small compressors. I wouldn't think some tape/gunk/rust would make an air tight plug against 120 PSI air, but it does...
I'm going to add a secondary relief valve to my stuff.
I'm going to add a secondary relief valve to my stuff.
taumac
Well-known member
2 point I can add. Was the pump mounted solid to the compressor or was there rubber mounts. I know I added rubber under my pump to lessen the vibration of the pump to the whole compressor. I wonder if vibration from the pump can weaken the metal around bracket the pump and motor are attach to tank? Metal fatigue?
One other thing I learned over the years is that a 125 psi compressor has a tank that is safety rated to 150. I notice the tank is rated 25 psi over the working psi of the compressor.
Its possible a chain of events happened. I believe it was a case of over pressure but hard to believe that a pressure switch failed, a safety blow off failed, and tank failed all at same time.
Have a good one, Gerard
Florida GJers ( FGJ)
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/group.php?groupid=117
The 5 Stitches Garage
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=211899
One other thing I learned over the years is that a 125 psi compressor has a tank that is safety rated to 150. I notice the tank is rated 25 psi over the working psi of the compressor.
Its possible a chain of events happened. I believe it was a case of over pressure but hard to believe that a pressure switch failed, a safety blow off failed, and tank failed all at same time.
Have a good one, Gerard
Florida GJers ( FGJ)
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/group.php?groupid=117
The 5 Stitches Garage
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=211899
b-body-bob
Well-known member
If the scenario played out, the first two problems are failures, and the tank rupture is a result of those failures.
In a hypothetical, the pop-off could've been blocked/failed for a long time before the pressure switch failed so they're not simultaneous failures in the strictest meaning of the word.
taumac
Well-known member
I can agree to that.
Have a good one, Gerard
Florida GJers ( FGJ)
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/group.php?groupid=117
The 5 Stitches Garage
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=211899
Richard Cranium
Well-known member
Wow, In 2001 when I retired from the S.O., We still had a mid 30s I.R. compressor, Sitting out side, not being drained, I was by last month and it is still being used. As for my compressor, I am planning on plumbing with black iron pipe this summer, but I think I will install another pop off valve inline.....Thanks Rich
I don't have much experience with compressors...but would an aluminum tank even though cost more work better and less prone to failure due to rust? I'm not sure if weld seam failure would help either material is used. Of course if other system failures as well...just wondering if aluminum tanks are any better?
n8n
Well-known member
I wouldn't recommend aluminum due to the fatigue properties... theoretically if you design a steel part right you can get an indefinite service life. Not true of aluminum...
Zrexxer
Well-known member
If you're getting scared of your tank you can move up to a nice heavy ASME approved tank. The small ones are not approved by anybody and portable ones are made thin to be light weight. My main tank is a 45 gallon out of a freight train from the 40s, it has a black coating on the inside to keep it from rusting and it's a full 1/4" thick. If my blow off valve got stuck I think the compressor would blow up before my tank!
Orange65
Well-known member
Because things always get better when you involve the government. J
I am of the opinion that your shut off valve and/or blow off did not work properly. But that is not based on any forensic study of the tank or its welds- it is just the more likely failure mode.
No matter what caused it, I am glad no one was hurt.
