Board and Batten: Hardie Plank lap vs. 4x10 sheets

[PKAero]

Hi
I am in the process of completing a 24x28 pole building. I am looking to finish the project with cement board and batten siding. My problem is that the outside walls are 12' and Hardie does not make a 4' wide panel 12' long (10' is the longest). I was wondering if anyone has used Hardie 12' lap siding in the vertical orientation as boards. I was wanting to eliminate any horizontal joints in the panels and the 12' laps would seem to solve this problem. I now have Lowes house wrap over OSB. Also plan to use lap applied felt paper over the house wrap and under the cement board. Any suggestions?

 

[appleton]

I'm in the same stage you are. Have OSB up, putting up Tyvek shortly, and using 4x8 sheets for 10' walls. I'm going with 2' pieces, z-bar between the upper & lower sheets, and trim over top.

Out of curiosity, why are you using felt over top of the Tyvek? I don't recall the installation instructions calling for this?

 

[PKAero]

I was only going to use Tyvek, however if I use the lap siding in a vertical orientation I thought additional water proofing would be necessary.

 

[Angelfire]

Shoot, my inspector is calling for two layers of building paper to be under the tyvek! Tyvek is a two part system and he evidently believes two layers of paper form one part. Can't help you on the siding as I'll be using stucco but I would think you'd want to avoid having continuous vertical seams

 

[brad900]

Not mine but here you go

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=24515&highlight=saltbox&showall=1

 

[TheShrine]

Not mine but here you go

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=24515&highlight=saltbox&showall=1

Thanks for the bump brad900 but my build does not match the OP's process.

I used 12 foot X 12 inch panels because I wanted a true "board and batten" finish....all be it HardiPlank rather than cedar. I never looked into the 12 X 8 size because I did not like the look that the panels gave.

Everyone to their own......

 

[Norcal]

If the 4'X10" panels/sheets are used use "Z" bar on horz. joints, got a great deal on 5/8" 4X8 plain rough sawn doug fir siding, walls were 10' so used Z bar w/ no issues for 19 years. BTW the siding was $7.00 a sheet.

 

[wnstwolf]

PK, Used the hardi plank B&B panels for the house. Stair tower is what we call "Big Red" ran into the exact problem you are with the height being bigger than the 10' panels. We used a horizontal trim piece to cover the seam. To make is somewhat look like we had a plan we used the midpoint of the windows as the trim spacing it could have been taller but the actual 10' mark was not a good place to stop.. Under the trim piece is a piece of "Z" flashing over laps the top of the lower sheet and the upper sheet sits on top of it if that makes sense? I was not sure so I also caulked the seam to be certail no water would get back there.

One note our Hardi Plank supplier stated we could not use a trim nailer for all the battons so like good doobies we used stainless small head trim screws. theory was that the 2.5" nail out of the nail gun had to go through the 1.5" trim piect and the 3/4 panel under it and over time would pull out?? See if you can find a 3" shank stainless nail and your good to go. What a pain it was/is to fill all the screw holes and try to make it look good.

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[PKAero]

Thanks, I read your thread and love the B&B look you achieved with the vertical cement board. Question. You mentioned sealing the boards, how was this done? Vertical lines of caulk?

 

[wnstwolf]

You can purchase color match caulk with the Hardi Plank. In the clapboard style you are told to not caulk the **** joins but just put a piece of felt paper behind then and get a tight as possible. I guess this allow what little movement you may get. At inner and outter corners you are supposed to leave a 1/8 gap between the end of the board and your trim pieces. Using the color match caulk to finish it off. As I did not want to see any water getting behind these large B&B panels I ran a bead of caulk at the **** joints where the top of one panel met the bottom of the other. As far as the joints side to side the panels were designed to overlap each other and then the batton covers the verticle seam (no caulk needed here)
Just a point on the caulk it is not the water clean-up stuff and if it is like mine can quickly get nasty when your doing long joints. Run the bead then run your finger over it to make it look like Mike Holmes was there. Yeah right 25' up on aladder now with a sticky nasty clump of goop on your finger. After learning this I used a plastic tool thingie cut to match the seam and kept a mineral spirit soaked rag close by. Live and Learn!

 

[appleton]

If the 4'X10" panels/sheets are used use "Z" bar on horz. joints, got a great deal on 5/8" 4X8 plain rough sawn doug fir siding, walls were 10' so used Z bar w/ no issues for 19 years. BTW the siding was $7.00 a sheet.

Out of curiosity, why does the instruction call for a 1/2" gap (that you're not supposed to caulk) plus running the z-bar over the horizontal batten strip?

I was really planning to use the z-bar, leave the 1/2" gap between the upper and bottom sheet, then apply the horizontal batten over it all to cover it up. Logic is that I'd rather cover up that joint and the z-bar is added protection in the event moisture gets behind it.

I guess the intent is to keep moisture from getting behind the horizontal batten. But rather than trying to find an extra-large z-bar (to also go over the hardie batten) plus trying to paint/color match the z-bar, I'm debating covering it all up and caulking the upper seam.

 

[wnstwolf]

App,
I read those darn instructions ten times, had the rep out, and in the end the z flash over the batten in our application would have looked like ****. the flash is there to keep water running down the face and not to let it get behind the sidding. Ours is about 6 inch up under the upper board and then about 3" long overlapping the outter board caulk and then the horiz trim piece. No water is getting in there and no harm done. Common sense prevailed. I believe your thought is correct on the intent of Hardi to keep water out from batten but they do not have you putting flashing behind the verticle battens? We did use a color match flashing just in case you were to ever get a peak in there as a white or non match color would show right up with the red siding.

 

[appleton]

App,
I read those darn instructions ten times, had the rep out, and in the end the z flash over the batten in our application would have looked like ****. the flash is there to keep water running down the face and not to let it get behind the sidding. Ours is about 6 inch up under the upper board and then about 3" long overlapping the outter board caulk and then the horiz trim piece. No water is getting in there and no harm done. Common sense prevailed. I believe your thought is correct on the intent of Hardi to keep water out from batten but they do not have you putting flashing behind the verticle battens? We did use a color match flashing just in case you were to ever get a peak in there as a white or non match color would show right up with the red siding.

Thanks for confirming what I thought was a negligible risk. The only reason I could think of for having the z-bar run over the batten as well would be to keep the moisture from wicking into the upper sheet, assuming moisture gets behind the horizontal batten and holds it there (vs. leaking out the bottom)

I haven't had any luck in finding a 1 5/16" z-bar that I could even use to cover up both the sheet and the batten. I think i'm going to paint the z-bar to match, see how it looks minus the horizontal batten (option 1 in the instructions), and will likely caulk the seam, and cover it all up with a caulked horizontal batten to make it look aesthetically pleasing.

 

[wnstwolf]

Good luck get us picks when your finished..

I had the joy of having the contractors brake on site to trim and bend all my flashing and trim pieces. If I knew I would do a job like this again I would by one off C-list, they are not cheap They are big and tough to store but what a great tool!!!