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Board and Batten Siding Where to set the Bottom

tstaude

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On the barn project I bought 1x12 rough sawn pine which will be installed as board and batten. The building is post frame but still has OSB on the outside.

I am wondering if I should just run the battens down past the level of the OSB or have something below with some flashing or maybe a Z channel at the bottom.

I have a picture of the two options below, represents the bottom 4 feet of the wall, not to scale
 

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lilredex

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We thought about B+B but went with channel siding instead, for a smoother look. More work but worth it in my opinion. Installed the "Z" flashing, because the foundation was there. That was about twenty years ago.
 

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billconner

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I think either will work if you keep the b&b 8 to 12" above the ground. I slightly prefer the one without the flashing.

If however you are close to ground, A pressure treated (for ground contact!) skirt board and flashing would be my choice.
 

nadogail

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I think either will work if you keep the b&b 8 to 12" above the ground. I slightly prefer the one without the flashing.

If however you are close to ground, A pressure treated (for ground contact!) skirt board and flashing would be my choice.
Amen
 
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tstaude

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It will be about 6" from the dirt/grass.

I would like to run it without the skirt board, but may end up going that route so I have something to set each board on and make sure it's all straight. Still undecided
 

Zeke

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There are many ways to keep the boards straight at the bottom. If you choose the Z-bar you don't want to rest the bottom of the boards on it, you should keep a 3/16 to 1/4" gap To allow for moisture to not be trapped and/or wicked up into the siding.

Not using the Z-bar solves that problem. But IDK, I like both.
 
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tstaude

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There are many ways to keep the boards straight at the bottom. If you choose the Z-bar you don't want to rest the bottom of the boards on it, you should keep a 3/16 to 1/4" gap To allow for moisture to not be trapped and/or wicked up into the siding.

Not using the Z-bar solves that problem. But IDK, I like both.
gotcha, so if I do use a Z-bar then definitely use a shim to keep the gap.

So you think the option on the left looks good?
 

KenC

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I like the LH version. With a couple of caveats. 1..bevel the bottoms of the 1x12 outside longer to help water drip off, not stick to the bottom edge and soak in. 2..Paint/seal/treat that edge before installation to repel water. Boards rot most quickly at end grain as it is like a sponge.

#2 applies no matter what the final choice may be.

I would also want a rain screen between the pine and house wrap. That allows the pine to dry from the back rather that trapping any seepage between the board and wrap.
 

billconner

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The rain screen is a good design - horizontal furring strips to space the boards out from the OSB. I support the beveled bottom edges. If you could, soak the ends for at least a few minutes of each board in whatever preservative coating you'll apply.
 

PoorUB

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Six inches from the ground and the lower part of the siding will never dry out. I would put in a skirt board, PVC prefered, or treated, the Z flashing and leave a gap from the bottom of the siding to the flashing. Better yet if the flashing does not have 90 degree bends, but a 45 degree angle so water runs off.
 
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Kaizen

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you definitley want a rain screen for an air gap. The build show just did something simliar and talked a lot about the why.
i'd prime both sides before install. The rain screen will help so both sides dry at the same rate. Agree pvc up to a foot. I used pvc and then a piece that is pvc and kind of like an L with a drip edge. Acts like flashing.
 

rayra

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seconding the bottom support and Z flashing. Particularly in parts of the country where that weird white stuff piles up against structures for weeks at a time.
 
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tstaude

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The rain screen is a good design - horizontal furring strips to space the boards out from the OSB. I support the beveled bottom edges. If you could, soak the ends for at least a few minutes of each board in whatever preservative coating you'll apply.

So is rain screen literally the furring strips?
 

K'ledgeBldr

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Johns Creek, GA
I think either will work if you keep the b&b 8 to 12" above the ground. I slightly prefer the one without the flashing.

If however you are close to ground, A pressure treated (for ground contact!) skirt board and flashing would be my choice.
If that's the case- the grade is wrong! Fix the grade- don't Band-aid with different material- it to will eventually rot.
 

billconner

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So is rain screen literally the furring strips?
Yes. With clapboards, vertical. With b&b horizontal. Screening (ss) or other material (that 3m scotch pad like stuff) at bottom to prevent insects, though maybe the horizontal furring will do it. Honestly have not done it with b&b.
 

KenC

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Using horizontal battens for rain screen behind B&B is not best practice. The horizontal boards block drainage. Better to use one of the sheet materials available, like this:
1658896706197.png
 

mejhaha

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Also second the rainscreen with battens running vertical - battens normally can be any material, do not have to be pressure treated.

Cor-A-Vent makes a great product for the bottom of the rainscreen; to let air and water move but keeps everything else out. Is reasonably priced and easy to work with. Normally the top of the rainscreen vents to the soffit space.
 

billconner

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Also second the rainscreen with battens running vertical - battens normally can be any material, do not have to be pressure treated.
Would be a lot of vertical battens for board and batten siding, and might need additional blocking since the spacing is unlikely to align with studs. I like the rain screen but may not be a good match for real board and batten siding.
 

billconner

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If you did do horizontal rainscreen battens, could just use a wide one - PVC or pressure treated - at bottom. I might consider no rain screen and install a 12" or wider strip of coil stock between OSB and boards, to get them as far as possible above ground and avoid the Z flashing.
 
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