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Boat Lift extension cord

gregs

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I have a friend / neighbor that I am trying to help out. He has a covered boat lift that is located across the street from his house on another lot. They bought the house and lot about 10 years ago after the house was flooded. They had the house demolished and and all the utilities disconnected. The boat lift wasnt that old back then but has no power going to it anymore. He wants to be able to use the lift occasionally but does not want to have utilities added back to the lot. Its about 250' from the lift to his garage where there is a dryer outlet available. I was thinking of making some type of "cord" that we could power the lift with from the dryer outlet. It looks like the lift uses 2 - 1hp motors (1 on each side) that operates a gear reducer that winds the cables. Any thoughts on what gauge wire it would need to be? Any bad ideas here?

The other option is to run it off a generator, but he does not own one and thought it might be a bigger hassle than just rolling out some cords and plugging it in.
 
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Firebrick43

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Cords are for temporary use only. Firing up a generator is going to be a lot easier than rolling out a 250’ cord every time.

If they are 1 hp each that will be a really heavy cord to not have significant voltage drop over 250’

Why not get a manual boat lift and put a cordless drill diver on it?

 
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PCustoms

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Absolutely zero useful info provided.

What voltage

What amperage

Is there a GFCI protected source
 
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gregs

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Absolutely zero useful info provided.

What voltage

What amperage

Is there a GFCI protected source
I have to get the info off the motor plates, but from a quick glance it looked like they where wired for 220v. I doubt the dryer outlet is on a GFCI breaker, but could be upgraded easily enough.
 
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gregs

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Cords are for temporary use only. Firing up a generator is going to be a lot easier than rolling out a 250’ cord every time.

Why not get a manual boat lift and put a cordless drill diver on it?
It will be just temporary use. This is a full size overhead boat lift attached to pilings.
 
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gregs

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I found some information on a boat lift website for wire sizing. Basically needs to be #8 for that distance and dual motors rated at 1hp each. That kinda rules out the extension cord idea.
 

wyliesdiesels

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The circuit should most definitely be GFCI protected

Do the motors have integral overload protection?

How were they connected before? Cord and plug or hardwired?
 
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gregs

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The circuit should most definitely be GFCI protected

Do the motors have integral overload protection?

How were they connected before? Cord and plug or hardwired?
I have to look at the wiring closer to see. It has a disconnect on one of the pilings and looks like it was hardwired back to the house.
 

mm08822

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250' of cord is heavy and expensive.
Understand the loads and assume both motors run at the same time.

Consider a small weatherproof panel to add gfci protection and receptacles. It can also include a power inlet connection for simple power connection.
 

Stuart in MN

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I'd compare the cost of a heavy extension cord that long to a portable generator, it may not be that different.
Others have mentioned the idea of using a cordless drill - you can get pretty powerful battery operated tools these days, so that may be worth looking into.
If I understand correctly, the initial idea is to run an extension cord across a public street? Unless you can block off traffic when its in use that may not be a good idea.
 

RegeSullivan

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First let me say playing around with electricty on the water should be left to qulified professionals. That said, if I had to "guess" 2, 240v 1hp motors would need about 9 amps. 250ft of 10/3 wire drawing 9 amps at 240v would drop voltage about 4 to 5 volts which should be ok. Definitely would want gfci protection. Unless the start up draw is excessive this should work.
 

walta

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Seems to me if you can’t do something safely do not to do anything. GFCI is a must and no extension cord crossing the road.

Do it correctly have a pro install a dedicated circuit in your panel for the lift. I think a ground rod by the lift would be required also.

To my eye the style motor in the photo is half horse max. The motors shaft would have to be larger if it was really a full horse motor.

Please post a photo of the labels that makes you think it needs 240 Volts and has twin one horse motors.

Walta
 
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gregs

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I will be back down there this weekend and will get some pics of the motor plates to verify hp and volt/amps. Also going to investigate the wiring from the the disconnect to see if there are any GFCI fixtures. Also going to bring my measuring wheel to confirm the distance, I used the measuring tool on the property appraisers website yesterday to guestimate. We are at the end of a dead end street in a neighborhood with basically no traffic so having a cord across temporarily wouldnt be a problem. But the cost of a heavy gauge cord vs a small generator is a consideration.
 

no704

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I like dual fuel and run on propane for infrequent use.
 

Wrench97

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Is this extension cord going to be run across the street?
What kind of traffic are you looking at? Most cords don't survive being run over by trucks.......
 
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gregs

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Got back down there this weekend and took a look at the lift motors. It has 2 -3/4hp motors wired for 220v and the amp rating is listed at 5.6-5.7. Was out talking to the neighbor discussing different options and explaining the issue with voltage drop for the long distance from his house across the street. The neighbor in the house next to his vacant lot with the boat lift also has a similar boat lift. I asked him if he knew the neighbor. He does and is good friends with him. He wasnt home at the time, but I suggested asking the neighbor if he would be willing to let us install a 220v outlet at his dock. The 2 docks are less than 50' apart. So far this looks like a promising solution for the problem he has now.
 

theoldwizard1

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I asked him if he knew the neighbor. He does and is good friends with him. He wasnt home at the time, but I suggested asking the neighbor if he would be willing to let us install a 220v outlet at his dock. The 2 docks are less than 50' apart. So far this looks like a promising solution for the problem he has now.
Cash is always a good incentive !

Hopefully the neighbor have a "full" 240V outlet (L1, L2, neutral and ground). You are still going to 75'-100' of at least 12/4 SJOOW cord. $$$ (about $1.50/ft) The outlet from the neighbor (or the whole circuit from the load center) should be protected by a GFCI !
 
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PCustoms

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Hopefully the neighbor have a "full" 240V outlet (L1, L2, neutral and ground). You are still going to 75'-100' of at least 12/4 SJOOW cord. $$$ (about $1.50/ft) The outlet (or the whole circuit from the neighbor should be protected by a GFCI !

Why?

Not needed for 240v motors.
 
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gregs

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I didnt go and look at the neighbors dock wiring feed. Its an older house but the dock looks newer. I am hoping its a 4 wire feed off a GFCI breaker but wont know until we get the ok to use it. My thoughts are to install a weather tight receptacle box with a twist lock socket after the disconnect at the neighbors. Then make a loooong pig tail / cord from the the unpowered dock. That way he can switch the power off of the neighbors dock, unroll his power cable and connect it, and then turn the power on. He will still have his disconnect in play in case he needs to shut it off for some reason and not have to run back to the other dock.
 
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gregs

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After doing some looking around, it seems you can purchase a RV extension cord pretty cheap. Most are either 12ga or 10ga so that might be an option as well.
 

The Cobbler

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I would monitor classified sites for some appropriate cable .
I scored 200' of 10/4 ( 3 pcs) , 50' of 12/3 and 50' of 16/4 cabtyre for $100 this past summer.
I went to the sellers home to buy a pc of 10/4 x 70' for $100 and he asked me if I wanted it all for the hundred.
I had to think for a millisecond to answer yes ...
it was all in very good condition with no nicks or abrasions , he claimed it was all used once for a family function. I have no reason to doubt that .
 

mike93lx

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I didnt go and look at the neighbors dock wiring feed. Its an older house but the dock looks newer. I am hoping its a 4 wire feed off a GFCI breaker but wont know until we get the ok to use it. My thoughts are to install a weather tight receptacle box with a twist lock socket after the disconnect at the neighbors. Then make a loooong pig tail / cord from the the unpowered dock. That way he can switch the power off of the neighbors dock, unroll his power cable and connect it, and then turn the power on. He will still have his disconnect in play in case he needs to shut it off for some reason and not have to run back to the other dock.
4 wire feed is unnecessary if the neighbor's lift is also 240v
 
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