Body paint rust...

[j789139]

Hello all,
The ole’ 96 civic ex is showing her age with body paint rust, the worst of which is above rear d/s tire. Is this worth trying to repair, or would you replace entire panel? If worth trying to repair, what would you use to remove the bubbling paint & rust?

 

[rijndael]

How is the rest of the car?

 

[j789139]

How is the rest of the car?

The rest of the car also signs of rust, paint loss and deterioration of clear coat, too...But, nothing, as bad as above rear d/s tire. That said, these 2 pics show the worst of what I can see, of the rest of the car....So far.

 

[Elsinore13]

That is where the quarter panel overlays and welds to the outer wheelhouse panel. Without removing the damaged area of metal to access the rust between the panels you will only be fixing at it, not actually repairing anything. Cut out the area and inspect.

 

[larryq]

Hello all,
The ole’ 96 civic ex is showing her age with body paint rust, the worst of which is above rear d/s tire. Is this worth trying to repair, or would you replace entire panel? If worth trying to repair, what would you use to remove the bubbling paint & rust?

Depending on how difficult it is to remove the panel (check on some Honda forums, could be pretty easy), I'd go that route and repaint.

Otherwise I'd head to the local pick 'n pull with a battery powered angle grinder, find a Honda of that age and cut out an appropriately sized section and prepare to weld it in. There's no possible way to repair your situation using any type of bondo and mesh that won't crack and bubble within a year or two at the outside.

 

[Garett]

That is all the way through, I guess too close to coast in Florida? The cost to fix it right doesn't make sense unless you are good at diy. I'd scrape the rust off then hit inside and out with Rustbullet or POR then bondo over the hole to keep the water out then spraybomb over that.

I did that with my one civic years ago and hasn't really gotten worse, its just not pretty. It's a street/track car so I'm considering covering it up with some flares then adding wide rims and tires, but that's more money...

 

[isb cornbinder]

This car is a unit-body car. The safety of the car relies on the strength of the car. rust had compromised the unit strength. A minor collision could become a serious threat to the persons in the car when the car body collapses in on itself.

 

[sevt_chevelle]

The best way to fix that is to just get in the darn thing and drive it til the wheels fall off.
Not worth the time and materials to fix it.

 

[engineer2]

Check the front subframe. On my 96, I was horrified to find 50% of it had rusted away. But that was Chicago winters.

 

[Al Borland]

Get a look at rust belt cars from the same year.
That will make you feel better about what you have.

 

[j789139]

That is where the quarter panel overlays and welds to the outer wheelhouse panel. Without removing the damaged area of metal to access the rust between the panels you will only be fixing at it, not actually repairing anything. Cut out the area and inspect.

Depending on how difficult it is to remove the panel (check on some Honda forums, could be pretty easy), I'd go that route and repaint.

Otherwise I'd head to the local pick 'n pull with a battery powered angle grinder, find a Honda of that age and cut out an appropriately sized section and prepare to weld it in. There's no possible way to repair your situation using any type of bondo and mesh that won't crack and bubble within a year or two at the outside.

Thanks!
No welding experience and/or equipment, whatsoever but I agree that I need to begin to remove the damaged area, to really see what's going on. That said, what about using something like this Polycarbide Abrasive Wheel, to remove the flaking paint & rust?

FWIW: Checking with Honda forum, on how difficult and costly it is to remove & replace the panel.

 

[j789139]

That is all the way through, I guess too close to coast in Florida? The cost to fix it right doesn't make sense unless you are good at diy. I'd scrape the rust off then hit inside and out with Rustbullet or POR then bondo over the hole to keep the water out then spraybomb over that.

I did that with my one civic years ago and hasn't really gotten worse, its just not pretty. It's a street/track car so I'm considering covering it up with some flares then adding wide rims and tires, but that's more money...

Yeah, definitely too close to coast... What would you use to scrape the rust off? FWIW, I've got this ^^^ Polycarbide Abrasive Wheel. Also have rust remover called "Naval Jelly", which I was thinking I could use as alternative to your Rustbullet or POR, suggestions. I'm OK, at diy, better with proper direction, from more experienced folks, but this is my first venture down this road, so have to take it a step at time.

 

[j789139]

The best way to fix that is to just get in the darn thing and drive it til the wheels fall off.
Not worth the time and materials to fix it.

Get a look at rust belt cars from the same year.
That will make you feel better about what you have.

Thanks!
The feeling I'm getting is, that seems to be the general consensus.

 

[j789139]

Check the front subframe. On my 96, I was horrified to find 50% of it had rusted away. But that was Chicago winters.

Thanks!
I've been under the front, a bit lately, didn't notice anything unusual but then again...wasn't looking. Where, exactly did you find the front subframe rust?

 

[5ktq]

whats that wheel... like coarse scotchbrite but noname?

That'll take paint off fine, unfortunately that rust is through there, you'll be left with a hole. Gotta cut it back and weld in a patch.

 

[CJ7VFR]

What you have there is not just some rust flakes you can remove with an abrasive wheel on a grinder and then hit the spot with some paint to fix it.

What you have is rust damage that goes all the way thru the inner and outer fender and wheel well. Once you put that abrasive wheel onto that area, and you start to remove the loose rust and bad paint, you will end up finding that you have a nice 5 to 6 inch hole right thru the metal.

Rust *****. And once you can see it, even if it appears small, like the other spots in your other picture, it is usually most of the way thru the metal. But that fender will look like swiss cheese once you actually start to attack the spot.

But even so, if you want to go for it, I say do it. Then, and only then, will you see the actual extend of the rust. Do not be surprised when the rusted out spot is much larger than you thought.

Jim

 

[engineer2]

Where, exactly did you find the front subframe rust?

Very obvious between the lower control arms. Sections were completely gone. Another winter, and lower control arm bushings would have nothing to attach to. I doubt the rust on a Florida car would be that bad.

No big deal to change. I had a DX, so while I was at it, I added power steering and a front swaybar. The front swaybar requires different lower A-arms, but to the salvage yard, it was a 'power steering rack assembly' for $120. Just got to re-set the toe when you are done.

 

[j789139]

whats that wheel... like coarse scotchbrite but noname?

That'll take paint off fine, unfortunately that rust is through there, you'll be left with a hole. Gotta cut it back and weld in a patch.

Thanks!
It’s this HF item by “Warrior” but 4 1/2, which says “Heavy duty polyurethane fibers with a fiberglass backing for extra durability”: https://m.harborfreight.com/4-in-polycarbide-abrasive-wheel-60508.html

Yeah, that’s the sense, I’m getting.

 

[j789139]

What you have there is not just some rust flakes you can remove with an abrasive wheel on a grinder and then hit the spot with some paint to fix it.

What you have is rust damage that goes all the way thru the inner and outer fender and wheel well. Once you put that abrasive wheel onto that area, and you start to remove the loose rust and bad paint, you will end up finding that you have a nice 5 to 6 inch hole right thru the metal.

Rust *****. And once you can see it, even if it appears small, like the other spots in your other picture, it is usually most of the way thru the metal. But that fender will look like swiss cheese once you actually start to attack the spot.

But even so, if you want to go for it, I say do it. Then, and only then, will you see the actual extend of the rust. Do not be surprised when the rusted out spot is much larger than you thought.

Jim

Thanks, Jim...That’s very helpful!
Yeah, rust ***** but I guess I’m going to have to see the actual e tent, at some point. That said, sounds like I need to do a bit more homework, on this type of fix...Cut out old & weld in new, before I turn her into Swiss cheese.

 

[j789139]

Very obvious between the lower control arms. Sections were completely gone. Another winter, and lower control arm bushings would have nothing to attach to. I doubt the rust on a Florida car would be that bad.

No big deal to change. I had a DX, so while I was at it, I added power steering and a front swaybar. The front swaybar requires different lower A-arms, but to the salvage yard, it was a 'power steering rack assembly' for $120. Just got to re-set the toe when you are done.

Thanks!
Sounds like a big deal, to me...Nice job! Hopefully, you’re right on, about doubting the rust on a Florida car would be that bad.