Body Work Advice on Pulled Screw Holes

[Richball]

So I have an '76 MG Midget that originaly came with a factory luggage rack. This style of rack used seperate feet to secure the rack to the trunck lid. Each foot was mounted using two #10 stainless sheet metal screws. Over the years previous owners have over tightened the screws to the point of pulling them out and puckering the holes. I would like to repair this so I can remount the rack and use it when needed. There is not much storage room in a Midget an the rack would be nice to have.

So I'm looking for advice on the best way to try to shrink these holes back down and reuse the existing holes if possible. A couple of things to note:

Access to the back side is limeted due to cross bracing.

The mounting feet are a two piece design and the deck surface should be flat. I think this would eliminate inserts.

Thoughts?

Rich Ball
Everett, WA

 

[p_mori7]

Replace the screws with short carriage bolts that will fit through the existing holes, use a large diameter washer and a nylock nut on the underside.

 

[ZRX61]

8 holes in total?
Get a spoon on the inside & tap them down with a hammer from the top (the bracing doesn't appear to be attached to the skin itself, the spoon will slide between the skin & the brace). You could then bond a piece of 18g on the inside for extra strength & use the same type of screws.

or... Drill down from the top through the braces, then enlarge the holes in the braces with a Uni-bit to about 1/2-9/16 in.. then you can use nuts & bolts: nuts on the inside & you'l be able to access to bolts with a 1/4in drive socket.

 

[jhelrey]

Use bolts and fender washers... Fender washers are huge

 

[Plane Crazy]

try to tap the metal down flat then
order some threaded rivet inserts
drill the holes slightly larger
install the rivet-- done

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-rivet-nuts/=geti0m

 

[Brad54]

try to tap the metal down flat then
order some threaded rivet inserts
drill the holes slightly larger
install the rivet-- done

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-rivet-nuts/=geti0m

I'd take this advise, but go one step further--rather than regular rivet inserts, go with the rubber ones: the squash down as you tighten them, and squeeze tight to the hole and provide a moisture seal.

With two per foot, you won't have to worry about the rack being loose or deforming the sheetmetal like a regular bolt/nut/washer would (as was suggested earlier), and it'll give a much stronger attachment than simple sheetmetal screws.

-Brad

 

[ZRX61]

or deforming the sheetmetal like a regular bolt/nut/washer would (as was suggested earlier),

If ya do it correctly, it won't deform the metal....