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Body work questions

nonhog

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Hopefully my pictures will tell the story good enough for thoughts on where to start.
My thought is spread the side while pulling on the back. I have a port a power but am not sure how to pull at my home shop.
 

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metaleltr

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Big tree and a come-a-long have pulled many cars over the years. With what you have there it would be best if you could chain the front to another tree. Wouldn't want that much force against the transmission.
 

TimeWarpF100

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not here
A set up and pull at a body shop after you remove bumper and taillight not that much. It’s gotta be pulled. You could make one but it may cost the same as having it done. You would be surprised after a good pull how much of that will come out with proper pull.


Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app
 

NYBODYMAN

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Sep 10, 2013
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NY
It's hard to tell, but it appears that the rear rail is still square or only at least a little bit off and the rest is just a sheet metal pull/push with a port o power. A body shop will charge you for set up and measure, and then pull time. At least several hundred dollars. If you use the port o power properly and don't over do it, you could probably save that old quarter and straighten it. The key is small pulls/pushes so as to not stretch the **** out of the sheet metal. I used to love trying to save panels like that. You can put a piece of 2x? wood against the tire tub/rail and push off of that in small increments. Keep us posted.
 
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nonhog

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Turns out 2 local GJ guys have what is called Pull Dozers. What are the chances?

As of now,
 

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nonhog

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Forgot about this thread. Here is more pics.
I just watched most of the pull and rough out.
I finished the Bondo work and primered it.
Thanks to Ford Cragar on here for the magic of old school body work! I hired the last block sand and painting. It turned out much more satin than expected. But it's done and only a driver.
I shudder to think about a complete paint job but maybe someday?
 

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nonhog

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Wrong paint, now what?

I mentioned how satin it is. Well.....
The paint store sold me BC/CC (w/o the clear)
They admitted to the mistake and told me that I could get single stage but I paid a pro to spray it.
I have yet to discuss that with the paint store.
I think they owe me $225 for the painter too.
Anyone else run into this situation?
Just my luck!
 
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850xpeps

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Re: Wrong paint, now what?

I mentioned how satin it is. Well.....

The paint store sold me BC/CC (w/o the clear)

They admitted to the mistake and told me that I could get single stage but I paid a pro to spray it.

I have yet to discuss that with the paint store.

I think they owe me $225 for the painter too.

Anyone else run into this situation?

Just my luck!



Why did the pro paint it if it wasn’t correct? Seems to me he’s slightly at fault if he wants to call himself a pro.
 
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nonhog

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He caught it right away. And asked me if I ordered bccc or SS. I told him single stage, cause that's what I told them. I supplied the paint.
He told me it looks like base coat, but I didn't know for sure until I showed the can to the supplier.
 
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nonhog

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Oh and another thing. He did suggest that we paint a sample first. I should have listened. I was thinking it's an old car I know it's not going to match.
Never thought of the wrong type.
 

SteveH-CO

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Excellent work on a car most wouldn't have tried to save!

Can't you just have your painter do clear over the base coat he applied? Or, just scuff the BC and apply single stage, and eat the $$. Unless you shoot the clear, there probably isn't a 'free' way out of this situation.
 

PartsGuy

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What kind of mixing ratio did he use when he sprayed the basecoat? The mix for BC is usually 1:1 color to reducer, where SS is often 8:1:1 color, reducer, and hardener. Basecoat isn't hardened, only the clear. For SS, the hardener also gives the finish a higher gloss and durability. Over or under-reducing can affect color match and coverage, more so with metallic/pearl colors.
See if the supplier will comp you a quart of clear and the appropriate hardener to fix the problem they created, or the SS setup you wanted in the first place. You can scuff the BC and then topcoat either way, either completing the BC/CC process, or topcoating with SS.
As far as paying for the labor, I think that's more on your painter for not verifying the paint and going ahead with the job than it is on the paint supplier. Did he do a sprayout card. or just open the can, mix it, and hit the quarter directly?
Generally, if we mis-mixed paint at my store, your only remedy was replacement paint.(And that was mostly for poor color match/wrong paint codes.) We also gave tech sheets to anyone who wasn't a "regular" or a body shop customer, indicating correct mixing ratio, spray pressures, etc.... for the kind of paint they purchased.
 
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nonhog

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Thanks all for the input/questions.
I honestly don't know how the painter mixed it.
The supplier already told me they would swap the proper paint (or clear) I think they owe more but have my doubts.
I think its way past the window to clear? The whole car should be painted.
I thought I could live with just the quarter being done.
I am going to try and sell as is, letting the new owner decide what route to take.
With my energy level, I hate the idea of painting the whole car. If it were a keeper I'd put on my big boy pants and get it all ready to paint.
I do like Volvo's but with 2 others in the shop and my desire for a classic american car (of my youth :thumbup:) I think I should just find someone who wants to take over the project. Really clean car!
We'll see........
 

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