Bolting roll-cab, intermediate, and top chest together?

[Andy Griffith]

I have three set-ups similar to the one shown in the picture below. Rolling cabinet, intermediate, and top chest.

I am re-configuring my shop and will be moving these units around trying different layouts. To date they have never moved from their current spot so I wasn’t too concerned with having them secured together.

I did manage to find the keys for all of the boxes so I can lock the drawers.

Bolting them together may be overkill for just moving them around the shop but I’m wondering if people do this sort of thing? And if so how is it done? Remove drawers to gain access, then drill holes and secure with bolts? Is there enough access in the framework to actually get a drill in there? (right angle drill maybe?)

Thanks

 

[cgrutt]

I have two older MAC rollcabs (smaller style) that were bolted together for a long time (they,re currently separated). MAC actually sold a kit that replaced inside casters with a heavy steel bracket that bolted into same place as casters. If you don't remove center casters its really hard to roll around.

Edit sorry thought you meant bolting two roll cabinets together. My bad...

 

[taumac]

Your picture isn't loading. My old craftsman had holes already in the top chest and intermediate to secure them together. I drilled two more holes from the top to the intermediate and drilled 4 holes on from the intermediate to the bottom roller cabinet. Some people might believe it's overkill but you don't want to pull a drawer on the top chest or lean on a drawer and the top just come flying off the stack at you.

 

[Richard Cranium]

When I had the three boxes, I bolted the three together to make it harder for some one to steal the box and tools. Took drawers out and drill holes for 1/4 bolts and used fender washers on both sides.

 

[bobcatdan]

When I had my KRA combo, I bolted top, bottom and locker together. It was pretty easy as the top box and locker came with the bolts for it. The roll cab had the holes in place and the top box bottom runners were threaded. That box moved somewhat often so I liked the idea of them being one. Now my craftsman box at home isn't bolted together, but it will probably never move from that spot. Pa made it 50 years with them not bolted together and I think I'll make it 50 years with them like that too.

 

[TheGrooveking]

In the early 80's I had a Matco MB510 rollaway with a Matco MB503 intermediate with a Snap On KRA 3 drawer chest and I would have to roll it all over a 100,000 sq. ft. plant and the intermediate and chest would vibrate around and move so where the flange of the cabinet was I drilled through it into the lower back (bottom quarter inch) of the intermediate and installed 1/8 rivets. I did like wise between the top of the intermediate and the chest. Worked great, matter of fact I still have that combo in my garage.

TheGrooveking

 

[GSMotorrad]

Remove drawers to gain access, then drill holes and secure with bolts? Is there enough access in the framework to actually get a drill in there? (right angle drill maybe?)

I did exactly that with my first toolbox, and just remember it being a huge pain. I remember needing to take them apart and put them back together more than I would have liked. Maybe because I felt like it was too tall to move together, it was a while ago.

I liked the secure feeling, so I'd probably do it again, but my current box came with brackets, and bolts, to just attach the top chest to the bottom in the rear. Much easier to attach and detach without taking all the drawers out. It just hooks into the top chest and there's a threaded insert to bolt it to on the bottom box. It's a Viper box.

It's more likely to tilt forward, with heavy drawers open or leaning on it or something, especially if it's up against a wall. It's not as secure as four bolts in four corners, but it's a lot more convenient and easy, while still adding some insurance.

 

[crackit]

Bolting them together may be overkill for just moving them around the shop but I’m wondering if people do this sort of thing? And if so how is it done? Remove drawers to gain access, then drill holes and secure with bolts? Is there enough access in the framework to actually get a drill in there? (right angle drill maybe?)

I didn't bother bolting them together until I added intermediate chests.

You can drill any necessary holes from outside the boxes (don't need a right-angle drill), but you will need to remove top/bottom drawers as appropriate to gain access for installing and tightening the bolts/nuts.

 

[MikeF2316]

I'm a fan of bolting them together, especially if you move them alot. The vibrations of unsmooth floors can cause them to drift. And it's a extra degree of safety if you live in an earthquake prone area. If you're neat with the holes (equal spacing, size) and use a large washer it won't be obvious if you reconfigure sometime in the future.

 

[crewchief888]

i used to have all mine bolted together, both at work and at home.

the only boxes i have now that are secured are the 2 in my service truck.

garage boxes havent been moved in several years, at the time, i wasnt sure about what was going where, so i never bothered.

last summer i moved my work boxes from the shop back home, and they havent moved yet.

 

[Andy Griffith]

Thanks for the replies.

Mike: Good point about earthquakes. I'm told that I live in a potential earthquake prone area. In fact we have to carry a separate 'earth movement' insurance policy.

GSMotorrad: That looks to be a well thought out design on those boxes.

I looked over the boxes again and I don't really see anyway to drill/secure them from the outside. I'll try offloading and removing two of the drawers and see how much room is in there.