Bonding Ground to Metal Box?

[Spudland_Dave]

How does a person bond ground to a metal box when using a 14-50R for example? I can see & understand the 12ga pigtail thing when wiring a 20a circuit, but when using 6GA wire?

 

[Steevo]

I believe that if you take your ohm meter or continuity checker and touch the mounting flange and the ground conductor, you will find that the ground is bonded to the mounting flange already.

 

[Aceman]

Pigtail the #10 ground wire you pulled with the #6's....

EDIT: If you used Romex, loop the bare ground wire around the screw before hitting the recep.

 

[pattenp]

I'm getting the feeling you pulled 4 individual #6 wires. You should replace one #6 with a #10 for the ground.

 

[rlitman]

I believe that if you take your ohm meter or continuity checker and touch the mounting flange and the ground conductor, you will find that the ground is bonded to the mounting flange already.

Yep. The mounting ******** the receptacle should be bonded to the ground screw. That's fine for grounding a metal box.

 

[Spudland_Dave]

I'm getting the feeling you pulled 4 individual #6 wires. You should replace one #6 with a #10 for the ground.

No, I used romex...my bad for the wire size statement...It is a bare/solid #10.

I will check for contunity...great idea Steevo..

 

[Speedy Petey]

Just wrap the ground around the ground screw and keep it long enough to hit the receptacle afterward.

 

[Norcal]

Yep. The mounting ******** the receptacle should be bonded to the ground screw. That's fine for grounding a metal box.

Yeah sure it is, as soon as the receptacle is removed the bond is gone. In other words I disagree that the receptacle is a suitable means of grounding the box.

Pigtail the #10 ground wire you pulled with the #6's....

EDIT: If you used Romex, loop the bare ground wire around the screw before hitting the recep.

Just wrap the ground around the ground screw and keep it long enough to hit the receptacle afterward.

Two good responses, IMO.

 

[rlitman]

Yeah sure it is, as soon as the receptacle is removed the bond is gone. In other words I disagree that the receptacle is a suitable means of grounding the box.

And when will the box be in service with the receptacle removed?
You're not working on the box live, right?

Let's be realistic here. The standard you're insisting on sounds like someone who thinks a car needs bolts to hold the rotors on, in case they want to drive with the wheels removed.

 

[MrMark]

And when will the box be in service with the receptacle removed?
You're not working on the box live, right?

Let's be realistic here. The standard you're insisting on sounds like someone who thinks a car needs bolts to hold the rotors on, in case they want to drive with the wheels removed.

I don't think that's a legit way to ground a box. It's certainly not a reliable way to ground a box as the ears of the recep are designed to sit on sheetrock and all you have for continuity are some cheap screws that might not have much contact or be spotty at best. I doubt but don't know for sure that your method would meet the NEC.

There are self-grounding receptacles (I personally don't rely on that) but aside from that, the box needs to be separately and correctly grounded as posted by the electricians above. In other words you need the green screw in the metal box.

 

[Norcal]

And when will the box be in service with the receptacle removed?
You're not working on the box live, right?

Let's be realistic here. The standard you're insisting on sounds like someone who thinks a car needs bolts to hold the rotors on, in case they want to drive with the wheels removed.

There is no receptacle listed as self grounding in a 30 or 50A rating, the box needs to be bonded to the EGC, it is just plain sloppy work not to bond it.

 

[Speedy Petey]

And when will the box be in service with the receptacle removed?
You're not working on the box live, right?

Let's be realistic here. The standard you're insisting on sounds like someone who thinks a car needs bolts to hold the rotors on, in case they want to drive with the wheels removed.

Sorry, you are WRONG. Grounding the box is primary. Grounding the receptacle is secondary. You CANNOT use the receptacle as a path to ground/bond the enclosure.

You can try and justify it all you want, but your explanation is nothing more than your opinion. Code says different.

 

[Spudland_Dave]

Is it permissable to crimp a fork or ring terminal on the end of the wire and screw that to the box, and then fab up a 10ga stranded jumper also with a ring terminal to hit that same bonding screw and to the recep?

I probably have enough to wrap the wire, but just in case I dont...thinkin ahead.

 

[Aceman]

Is it permissable to crimp a fork or ring terminal on the end of the wire and screw that to the box, and then fab up a 10ga stranded jumper also with a ring terminal to hit that same bonding screw and to the recep?

I probably have enough to wrap the wire, but just in case I dont...thinkin ahead.

I'd use a scrap piece of 10 solid cut off from the panel end...

 

[Spudland_Dave]

I'd use a scrap piece of 10 solid cut off from the panel end...

I'll have plenty of scrap..no doubt...twist em both under ground screw or ring terminal?

 

[Aceman]

Wrap one pigtail around the ground screw in the box.
Insert one pigtail in the recep.

Now take the ground wire from the Romex along with those two pigtails, twist them together and put a red wirenut on them.

 

[Spudland_Dave]

Wrap one pigtail around the ground screw in the box.
Insert one pigtail in the recep.

Now take the ground wire from the Romex along with those two pigtails, twist them together and put a red wirenut on them.

Easy 'Nuff....Thanks Much once again!
I may ask stupid questions from time to time, but I always go to bed knowing its done right thanks to all you guys!