bonding metal to wood?

[Cardigansweater]

I am looking for suggestions on a glue/epoxy to bond metal to wood? , i am looking for something strong, Its to add bars to my long board for street luging, so it must withstand me pulling on them occasionaly. I weigh 170lbs if it helps. Thank you.

 

[Cobra5150]

Why not a mechanical fastener?

 

[Holt]

Bonding 2 different materials like this will not work well. you can try scuffing the wood and metal like hell and use a premium bonder like liquid nails. your bedt bet is mechanical fastners

 

[pauls_workshop]

I am looking for suggestions on a glue/epoxy to bond metal to wood? , i am looking for something strong, Its to add bars to my long board for street luging, so it must withstand me pulling on them occasionaly. I weigh 170lbs if it helps. Thank you.

I needed just the thing recently for a custom bottom for my wood garage door to prevent water damage to it at the bottom edge. I used some thin steel "L" shaped roof edging for it. I didn't want any holes in it to mechanically fasten to the wood door to avoid water getting in from the holes. I used a strong polyurethane caulk, about $8 a tube at Menards. It worked great and has held for a year now without any issue. The metal and the wood are one. I think epoxy could also work, but epoxy is very expensive, depending on how much material you need to bond. PolyU is much cheaper and also a very good, all weather bond. - Paul

 

[slopdog]

http://www.thistothat.com/cgi-bin/glue.cgi?lang=en&this=Wood&that=Metal

 

[joe_padavano]

I am looking for suggestions on a glue/epoxy to bond metal to wood? , i am looking for something strong, Its to add bars to my long board for street luging, so it must withstand me pulling on them occasionaly. I weigh 170lbs if it helps. Thank you.

Gluing a non-structural metal angle to the bottom of a garage door is very different from gluing bars to a board like this. The bars will be exposed to much higher loads, and these loads will be bending and peeling loads, which are the worst for adhesives. I'm afraid the only structurally adequate solution here will be mechanical fasteners, and even then you may have a problem of splitting the grain on the wood. The fasteners need to be spread out as far as possible and have metal reinforcing plates on top and bottom of the board to prevent splitting the grain.

 

[Hammer1963]

Go to your local auto body supply supplier. They can advise you and supply you with the proper adhesives. I use SEM and Valvoline branded products and both work extremely well for this purpose

 

[ddawg16]

Glues are great.....until something flexes...that is what starts to break the bond....

Mechanical fasteners is your only real reliable solution.

Side note.....Boeing 'glues' the doubler on their skin panels on most of their aircraft.....but this is a very special glue....and they put what they call a 'cheater' rivet in each of the corners. This prevents the edge from starting to peal and the whole thing coming apart.

 

[Playwme]

What sort of surface area is there where the bond will be? Some of the automotive panel glues are pretty ****** strong. They're not overly cheap but I've used one called Fusor108B for some slightly outside the box solutions

 

[NUTTSGT]

Maybe take a few minutes to shoot 3M an email. They make all sorts of adhesives for autobody, maybe they have something that would work for you.

What's the worst that could happen ? Not respond back to you.

http://3mcollision.com/products/adhesives

 

[JakeKohl]

I work with fiberglass, woods, and metals all the time. If you just want to hold a piece of metal on a piece of wood, glue it with something. If you want to hold ON TO a piece of metal attached to some wood, you better put a screw or bolt between them.

 

[1320stang]

Dexter Hysol 9432NA is what we used to bond cellular antenna mounts to water towers back in the day. 3800# tensile shear strength at 77*F on etched aluminum

 

[theoldwizard1]

Glues are great.....until something flexes...that is what starts to break the bond....

It depends somewhat on the adhesive. Some will take more flexing than others. Epoxies, in general, will NOT !

Remember, in this application, the top layer of wood, especially if it is plywood, could come off.

 

[Trey T]

Gorilla glue might work.

 

[jvitez]

PL Premium, plus mechanical fasteners, or just replace the glued board when the glue starts to separate. PL Premium is very strong, and impossible to get off any surface when dried.

http://lepageproducts.com/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=84

 

[joe_padavano]

PL Premium, plus mechanical fasteners, or just replace the glued board when the glue starts to separate.

"Just replace the glued board when the glue starts to separate"??? Seriously?

Go back and read his original post. He's talking about putting handles on a street luge board. Shortly after the glue starts to separate, his shoulder will start to separate in the ensuing crash.

 

[QwikKotaTx]

It may be a different application but I have used that Loctite adhesive in the caulk tube to hold a heavy amp on an MDF board to the metal painted wall of my truck cab for several years with no issues and many races etc.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-9-fl-oz-Clear-Power-Grab-All-Purpose-Adhesive-1589155/203009256#.UhUEV_L9WSo

 

[JakeKohl]

"Just replace the glued board when the glue starts to separate"??? Seriously?

Go back and read his original post. He's talking about putting handles on a street luge board. Shortly after the glue starts to separate, his shoulder will start to separate in the ensuing crash.

 

[pauls_workshop]

PL Premium, plus mechanical fasteners, or just replace the glued board when the glue starts to separate. PL Premium is very strong, and impossible to get off any surface when dried.

http://lepageproducts.com/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=84

I'm rather enjoying how another forum member has brought my earlier polypropylene caulk idea back up as a meaningful suggestion after getting trashed my others earlier in this thread who seem to know most things in life. Typically metal would only have a problem separating from the wood via shear. PL Premium poly caulk is good stuff. If the forces involved are large as suggested, but are NORMAL type forces and not shear, it should do just fine. If the forces are very large, then YES, by all means, DO use a few mechanical fasteners in addition TO a good poly caulk, at least on either end of the steel, which would alleviate the shear concerns. A combination would be best between mechanical fastener and glue/caulk. But don't underestimate a good poly caulk. My wood garage door bottom you see isn't as free of forces as you might think. Sometimes it goes BANG and hits the cement under it! Hasn't even tried to separate or come loose! Good stuff. - Paul

 

[joe_padavano]

I'm rather enjoying how another forum member has brought my earlier polypropylene caulk idea back up as a meaningful suggestion after getting trashed my others earlier in this thread who seem to know most things in life. Typically metal would only have a problem separating from the wood via shear.

Well, I may not know "most things in life", but as an aerospace engineer who's designed and built (and flown) a LOT of bonded structural parts, I DO know about bonded joints. Shear is NOT the "only" problem. Peel is the primary cause of failure in bonded joints. The intended application will almost certainly see peel forces, and more importantly, I would assume this existing street luge board already has some sort of a finish on it. Ensuring that finish was completely removed, including any in the wood's pores where the adhesive needs to go for a good structural bond, will be nearly impossible.

 

[pauls_workshop]

Well, I may not know "most things in life", but as an aerospace engineer who's designed and built (and flown) a LOT of bonded structural parts, I DO know about bonded joints. Shear is NOT the "only" problem. Peel is the primary cause of failure in bonded joints. The intended application will almost certainly see peel forces, and more importantly, I would assume this existing street luge board already has some sort of a finish on it. Ensuring that finish was completely removed, including any in the wood's pores where the adhesive needs to go for a good structural bond, will be nearly impossible.

Joe, those are reasonable points you made above. What you are calling Peel I was lumping in with Shear. The "Peel" event could be broken down into normal forces and shearing forces if you did a free body diagram of it. Agreed, those are the failure modes. In this case, I think we both agree mechanical fasteners are a good idea. I would do that and also a bonding of some type, like poly or other. Roughing up the finish would be key as well of course. What would be really nice with this one would be a picture or something so everyone could understand exactly what the poster is talking about doing. - Paul