Botched door knob hole…

[branimal]

I installed 7 new doors in my condo and I’m just getting around to installing the door knobs. Most of them went fine with the exception of two.

I used the milwaukee door knob jig to cut the holes. Since it was creating a lot of dust, I asked a friend to hold a shop vac while i was drilling. While I had his help, I got overzealous on getting all the doors done and forgot that two doors needed to have the widths cut a little bit. Anyway a week later, not thinking about it, I went and cut a little bit off these two doors on the knob side. Now these two doors have their door knob hole less than 2 3/8 from the side of the door. So the latch cylinder won’t recess far enough to be flush with the side of the door.

My solution to my F*ck up is to place the Milwaukee jig back on the door and clamp a piece of plywood behind the door. I’m using the plywood so that the pilot bit on the milwaukee jig has something to drill into. The only issue is one side of the door knob might have a slightly exposed hole….

So two questions….

1. Is my fix the way you guys would do it?
2. what would you patch the exposed door knob hole with?






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[snyder]

I would buy two new doors and start over. If not i would be reminded of my being a ******* every time i turn the knob.

 

[rustyjames]

You could try gluing in a plug and re-drilling. Don't have much to lose but a little time.

 

[acer66]

Get a hole saw bit that has the right size so the the cut out fits snug into the hole.
Get a piece of wood the same thickness of the door and cut a piece out glue it in place.
Then cut out a new hole for the saw and you are set.

If they are the cheapest hollow core doors I would do what snyder says.

rustyjames beat me to it.

 

[flat350]

I have a few solid wood doors that need the hinges relocated,used Bondo to fill in the old hinge pockets and they have held up for 10 years so far.

 

[yeldogt]

It all depends on what level you want. Epoxy will fill in the area -- but it will more than likely still crack around the old opening ... making a line. It does not look like the edge of the door is cut all that clean anyway .... what are you going to do with that?

With a wood door there are more options .. but, whenever you have dissimilar products .. the movement of each typically leaves a line.

 

[ford33]

If the doors are inexpensive, replace them. If not plug and patch but you will likely see a shadow line around the plug unless you are very good at patching, filling, creating the grain look of the wood.

 

[MadMechMaster]

Just spitballing, is the latch assembly adjustable? Can you set it to the new, incorrect offset?

 

[b-boy]

I'd just replace them.

 

[strutaeng]

Usually the door manufacturers put a block of wood in the door knob area that's oversized. You can see it in your photo.

I would use a hole saw on a drill press if possible that matches the ID with your hole OD, or as close as possible. Glue and plug it and try again. The new hole is so close that the door knob escutcheon will probably hide the blooper.

 

[branimal]

Door thickness is 1 3/4”. Closest thing I’ve got laying around is 2x4 stud.... so 1 1/2”. Or 3/4” ply.

Can I plug in a stud piece and use filler to make up the missing 1/8” on each side.

Won’t have access to my table saw for a week.




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[Todd.Brock]

I’d start over if they are hollow core slabs. And trim your door to fit first

I would have likely made the same error , so no judgement here.


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[Abeo]

I'd use something like this to cover my sins

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Prime-Line-Stainless-Steel-Door-Guard-Plate-U-9589/100554278

 

[earl84]

As far as cutting a new hole, you’re doing it the way I would. For the hole, you can buy something called a “Scar plate” that will cover the hole. Way easier than any other method, and they look fine. You can get at HD or Lowe’s or order online, depending on what color you need. Think HD and Lowe’s mostly have the brass color only.

 

[yeldogt]

With a wood door -- you cut plugs out of wood to fill the hole -- gluing them in place. Drill a new hole.

The final finish depends on how much you want it to disappear -- what's the outside of the current door?

Wood doors move with the climate throughout the year -- masonite and other caped doors don't move as much.

nothing is perfect -- except skinning -- and that's another whole process.

 

[Bobhdus]

After the hole is corrected, you can use a scar plate set to change the door backset. They carry them at Lowe’s and Home Depot. They’re just big round discs that come in different finishes that cover a modified hole. Can also use a door reinforcement wrap that will cover it as well.


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[Bobhdus]

Shown here-




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[AnEv942]

As far as moving hole I'd probably use rasp or drum sander instead of trying to redrill as I'd make a bigger mess.
Pictures look like hole is not as far off as latch sticking out. Like, depending on knob style, it might cover? That' be too easy. Scar plates simple enough.
On the latch, I replaced couple sets at my moms and had to run counterbore thru for latch to set in.

 

[58Yeoman]

I would do the scar plate.

 

[lilredex]

Use the (glue in) plug and re-drill method as above. Your doors appear to be painted, so the repair will disappear. Clamp a new guide piece on the front to guide the drill.

We moved twenty-seven years ago and I used that method on exterior doors that needed modification to accommodate door hardware that we brought with us. That repair looks just fine today.

 

[CJ7VFR]

See if you can you use the plug you drilled from the original hole to fill it back in, and then re-drill the knob hole to the correct placement.

I have seem some people do this when they don't have any other pieces of wood thick enough (1-3/4) to fill in the hole. They mixed up some epoxy to glue the original piece back in, and to also fill up the gap left by the thickness of the hole saw.

Jim

 

[The Cobbler]

what you can do is set the latch a bit proud of the door, and recess the strike plate deeper into the jamb . split the difference so you hide the hole/don't have the latch out to far .
it would be neater than adding a scar plate, IMO . anyone that knows anything about doors will know it's a goof, no matter what you do, save replacing the door

 

[branimal]

The drilled out pieces were tossed long ago.

Cobbler - the jambs are metal.

I did find some 1/8” thick smooth mdf?? See pic. Two of those glued to the 2x4 will get me to 1 3/4” thick.

Out of interest why can’t I cheat the hole over a little if the door flange will cover the new hole?

Something like the scar plate by Don-Jo posted above might work.

Thanks for the help!!





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[ez-duzit]

...I did find some 1/8” thick smooth mdf?? See pic. Two of those glued to the 2x4 will get me to 1 3/4” thick...

You can't just buy a small piece of wood the right thickness?

Come on! What a hack job!

 

[AnEv942]

...
Out of interest why can’t I cheat the hole over a little if the door flange will cover the new hole?
...

Exactly-knob assy. does not use the hole, its only clearance to insert.
If it covers-your done.

 

[johnnyradiant]

I'd either use Don Jo scar plates, a couple pieces of p-lam or your own brass or stainless plate cut to desired/required shape and size. I've repaired a few doors that didn't stand the test of time with rough users years ago we did a few with a rectangular piece of black p-lam. It kinda had the look like the plates that you put on a commercial door. Most of the time a Don Jo plate is great, quick, painless, and better than anything you will get trying to repair the hole with wood unless you have oodles of time.

 

[jjohnson70]

By a scar plate - I had the same issue wig my condo door and the $4 scar plate worked perfectly.


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[branimal]

You can't just buy a small piece of wood the right thickness?



Come on! What a hack job!

Lol.... where am I going to find 1 3/4”’thick wood? That’s a serious question. I’ll buy it....

Also my table saw isn’t available to me for a week. I want to get this done now.


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[larry_g]

https://www.doorcorner.com/bacadrin...b-PlkddDAAzignBy61-f9lmFTlG5tZCUaAuBUEALw_wcB

Could you do without the latch and use one of the above? That is what I did in one closet door. Works great.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[lakelandcat]

I'd use something like this to cover my sins

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Prime-Line-Stainless-Steel-Door-Guard-Plate-U-9589/100554278

the door guard plate is the way to go. It may look like a mistake but it is the most secure. In the "cheapest" way to go, this is it.

 

[tcianci]

First of all, if you plan to move the hole over, you don't need to infill anything to use the pilot bit. The Milwaukee jig will maintain the position of the hole saw based on the OD of the saw, you need no pilot hole at all. Come in from both sides so you don't blow out the veneer on the backside of the door.

Then if needed, you re-drill the 7/8 or 1" latch hole so that the **** end of the latch will bury into the door, allowing you to mortise the latch plate flush with the door edge.This is probably not needed though because when you re cut the through hole, you're removing the material that's stopping the latch from going in deeper.

At this point, the only issue will be whether or not the escutcheon of the knob set will cover the dragged hole. As mentioned, you can use a boo boo plate or simply fill the area of the hole that shows with Bondo, then sand and paint.

If you're careful, you can pull this one out of the fire and pat yourself on the back for a good save.

 

[58Yeoman]

Install scar plates on all the doors, and it will look like a nice addition all around, to all the doors, not covering up a mistake.

 

[38Chevy454]

The scar plate or security u-shaped plate are both easy solutions. I would use either one, but the scar plate is probably all you need.

 

[mike93lx]

New door slab

 

[branimal]

Wood Glued in a piece of wood with the correct thickness. Letting it sit 24 hours before I attempt to redrill the hole to the correct position.

Should I fill the gaps with bondo or something else?

What grit sandpaper should I sand down that spot with?

Thanks




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[58Yeoman]

You can buy wood putty in a small container that should work.

 

[acer66]

I would use wood filler but if you have bondo you can use that too.

 

[shoot summ]

I've fixed doors to reuse before, the plug and re-drill method works great. If you have the plug just mix up a little bondo, butter it up, put it in the hole and let it set. Smooth it down, and drill the new hole.