Bottom plates and sill?

[VietGnome]

I was talking to my framer buddy about my garage plans, I mentioned cutting 4.5" off of studs to comply with 12' ceiling height, he said it will likely be 6".

Does that mean he's anticipating a bottom plates ontop of the sill plate?

That makes sense from a framing point of view, but I have some questions.

1. How do I fasten the plate to the sill? Just nail it down, then nail the sheathing into the bottom plates? Or should the bolt run through both the sill and bottom plates?

2. I assume either way I drill matching holes in the bottom plates to align with the bolts? If i only bolt down the sill then the holes in the bottom plate will need to be wider to accommodate the washer/nut.

 

[finn]

Why would you build agarage with only 8’ tall walls?

 

[VietGnome]

Why would you build agarage with only 8’ tall walls?

The OP specifically says 12' ceilings?

 

[finn]

The OP specifically says 12' ceilings?

I read it as 8’…wtf?

Even then, we went with 10’ 2x6 (full length, not stud length), on top of three courses of 8” block to give the stalls a little more height for the lift. I think it came out to 12’ 4 1/2” or something like that.

i sided the building with steel, so I wasn’t constrained by standard sheet sizes.

 

[MushCreek]

Normally the wall is built laying down, including the sill plate, then stood up into place. If the sill plate is already in place, then you don't need another one.

 

[mike93lx]

He's probably talking about setting a PT mudsill then framing the wall with a KD sill and placing the wall assembly on top of the mudsill.

Attachment can depend on where you are... Hurricane or earthquake country will require strapping.

Could go through both sills with titen HD or tapcon HD concrete anchors. Then you don't have to worry about j bolt alignment

 

[bluedog225]

He a probably talking about setting a PT mudsill then framing the wall with a KD sill and placing that on top of the mudsill.

Attachment can depend on where you are... Hurricane or earthquake country will require strapping.

Could go through both sills with titen HD or tapcon HD concrete anchors. Then you don't have to worry about j bolt alignment

There’s something to be said for that. The f’d up one one of my sills by not matching the bolts. Looks like ****.

 

[OccupantRJ]

I don’t normally use a double bottom plate unless I want to make it easier later to nail baseboard in a house or other special reason. A double upper top plate is desirable for sure due to concentrated load points of the trusses. If a double sole/sill plate was being used I would tend to anchor through both unless previously set anchors were short. I would also use the foam strip isolator between the lower plate and the foundation as a gasket against water intrusion and tiny critters. Make sure you end up with height for a lift if you plan to use one. I saw a commercial garage a week ago with a narrow slot cut into the ceiling material because the lift was about a half inch too tall when it was installed.

 

[MushCreek]

I built my walls 12' 4-1/2" just for that reason. Left the studs a full 12'

 

[BobnCO]

He's probably talking about setting a PT mudsill then framing the wall with a KD sill and placing the wall assembly on top of the mudsill.

Attachment can depend on where you are... Hurricane or earthquake country will require strapping.

Could go through both sills with titen HD or tapcon HD concrete anchors. Then you don't have to worry about j bolt alignment

Yes that is what a framer is validly thinking, pressure treated sill (aka mud sill) bolted to concrete (sealed and shimmed if necessary), wall framed on floor, notch or drill holes large enough to go over bolts with nuts, and rolled up and nailed to pressure treated sill (angle 16’s or use 3” nails).

 

[VietGnome]

Yes that is what a framer is validly thinking, pressure treated sill (aka mud sill) bolted to concrete (sealed and shimmed if necessary), wall framed on floor, notch or drill holes large enough to go over bolts with nuts, and rolled up and nailed to pressure treated sill (angle 16’s or use 3” nails).

Ok, I thought he was planning something like this. Ill plan for that lumber wise.

I built my walls 12' 4-1/2" just for that reason. Left the studs a full 12'

Code here requires engineered plans over 12' walls. So unfortunately I'll have to cut the studs for exactly 12' framed walls. I make up for it by putting it on an 8" stem wall.

 

[Sumboodie]

Why would you build agarage with only 8’ tall walls?

Mine are 14ft and it's annoying. 16 would make logical sense.

 

[VietGnome]

Mine are 14ft and it's annoying. 16 would make logical sense.

What's annoying about 14?
My FIL has just shy of 13 and can put a full size truck on the lift and its only a minor inconvenience.

Id have thought 14 would be great

 

[Sumboodie]

What's annoying about 14?
My FIL has just shy of 13 and can put a full size truck on the lift and its only a minor inconvenience.

Id have thought 14 would be great

Can't use a 14ft tall door. Can't do 2 floors without low ceiling.