Bottom support board of kitchen cabinet

[MarlynOC]

The bottom support board of my kitchen cabinet was pressed wood and has "rotted" away. Need to replace it but the cabinet is the middle of the run of cabinets and supports the sink. Need input on how to replace it with new wood. Thinking of jacking up cabinet with a scissors jack to fit new board in place and attach properly but worried it will somehow crack the front of cabinet.

 

[larry4406]

Leave the cabinet in place.

Cut the cabinet floor out completely. You have exposed the 4" toe kick void below the cabinet. Add blocking between the kitchen floor and the bottom of your new cabinet floor. Insert a piece of plywood as your new cabinet floor. Finish the plywood as you desire.

 

[gregs]

Agree^^^^. Thats how I did mine. Finished it with a couple coats of paint. Later I added a plastic mat / try designed with a lip around the edge to hold small leaks or spills.

 

[PCustoms]

The bottom support board of my kitchen cabinet was pressed wood and has "rotted" away.

Is this piece vertical (the toe kick) or horizontal (the inside shelf of the cabinet)?

 

[billconner]

I'd sure look for an adjustable leg and insert from front, through some removed rotten toe kick. Just seems simpler.

 

[MarlynOC]

Thanks for repies. PC it is the vertical piece (toe kick) Will follow Larry's instructions. Was planning that way but thought better to get some input to problem than just cut away.

 

[larry4406]

Thanks for repies. PC it is the vertical piece (toe kick) Will follow Larry's instructions. Was planning that way but thought better to get some input to problem than just cut away.

When you replace the floor like I described, you can install new blocking at the toe kick and apply a new toe kick skin/board as well. Offset the toe kick blocking based on the thickness of your material so all the toe kicks plane out.

 

[PCustoms]

Thanks for repies. PC it is the vertical piece (toe kick) Will follow Larry's instructions. Was planning that way but thought better to get some input to problem than just cut away.

If the toe kick is gone I would NOT touch the bottom.

Rip the kick out, maybe add some blocking and put a new kick in place.

Post a pic and later I can give a better description on how to do it.

 

[rlitman]

Thanks for repies. PC it is the vertical piece (toe kick) Will follow Larry's instructions. Was planning that way but thought better to get some input to problem than just cut away.

The toe kick is cosmetic and doesn't support anything. Cabinets rest on their sides only. Support for the back comes from their attachment to the wall. So, if it's just the toe kick that is rotted, just replace it and fear not.

Now if the cabinet sides are rotting too, that's a bigger issue. I'm not a fan of the traditional method of resting a cabinet on shims on the floor because one potential problem is that the sides can wick up water that gets under them, leading to this sort of failure. In a new install, I'd use steel leveling feet, but they require drilling from above for access to the adjustment screw (and eventually plugging these holes), plus you cannot install them via the toe kick space. However, you do still have the option to use EZ-Levelers. With the toe kick off, you can slide these in, lift them until the touch, install the screws into the cabinet sides and then tighten them to take up the weight.

EZ-Level Cabinet Levelers

Install Cabinets Yourself With EZ-Level Cabinet Levelers. The Fastest & Strongest Cabinet Levelers Available.

www.ez-level.com

 

[billconner]

Cabinets rest on their sides only.

I think they vary. None of the three I've installed sit on their sides, though one I tore out did.

 

[jar944]

I think they vary. None of the three I've installed sit on their sides, though one I tore out did.

They can't be supported by the toe kick. The the fronts are open (be it a door or a drawer.) All the weight of the cabinet is on the sides and back.

 

[bb29510]

put some adjustable feet, then a board to cover them

 

[The Cobbler]

some pics would go a long way to an educated answer to your question. right now we have to guess

 

[rlitman]

I think they vary. None of the three I've installed sit on their sides, though one I tore out did.

How else would they work?

 

[billconner]

How else would they work?

Mine current base cabinets are on 4 adjustable legs. Ikea hangs from rail on wall and just front on legs (common to two cabinets). My first was St Charles with out base and I put a cleat on wall and a 5/4 x 4 rail with legs of same under front of cabinet and toe kick attached to it.

What I've seen, heard, and done all leads me to cabinets without any base as preferred style.

 

[rayra]

Leave the cabinet in place.

Cut the cabinet floor out completely. You have exposed the 4" toe kick void below the cabinet. Add blocking between the kitchen floor and the bottom of your new cabinet floor. Insert a piece of plywood as your new cabinet floor. Finish the plywood as you desire.

Plot twist:

Turn said bottom void into a hidden drawer, or pull-out step.


yeah, leave the jack out of it, you'll just make things worse.

/and that piece / area is usually called a 'toe kick'