Bought a broken compressor. Looking for advice
- Thread starter katit
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454ragtop
Well-known member
With 2 belts, they don't need to be super tight. Can usually put a block of wood in between the pump and the motor and pry them apart, but again doesn't need to be super tight.
ClappedOutBport
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I like to use a lab jack. A car jack might work, just be gentle. I like the half turn rule.
Got Yellow Jacket pipe bending tool from my friend. Got all assembled. Ready for the first run.. Nope. I don't know... McMaster or me?
I ordered "General Purpose Copper Tubing, 5/8 Tube Size, 3/4" OD, 0.032" Wall Thickness, 6 Feet Long" They sent it in 7ft cardboard TUBE. Charged about $30 for shipping.
And I guess it's not necessarily that tube should bend?
I ordered "General Purpose Copper Tubing, 5/8 Tube Size, 3/4" OD, 0.032" Wall Thickness, 6 Feet Long" They sent it in 7ft cardboard TUBE. Charged about $30 for shipping.
And I guess it's not necessarily that tube should bend?
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matt_i
Well-known member
You gotta buy dead soft/annealed copper tubing.
That looks suspiciously like standard Sch40 copper pipe used for water service and is heavily cold-worked.
That looks suspiciously like standard Sch40 copper pipe used for water service and is heavily cold-worked.
you can anneal that tube with a propane torch heating up til cherry then immersing in cold water. may have to do partial bend then re-anneal, repeat until done.
I used this method on a large copper sheet that someone made a 3-d picture out of, was able to soften it enough to pound it flat with a body hammer, then shape a lid for my still without cracking it. copper tube should be the same, each time you bend it will work harden a bit so stop and re-do the process.
I used this method on a large copper sheet that someone made a 3-d picture out of, was able to soften it enough to pound it flat with a body hammer, then shape a lid for my still without cracking it. copper tube should be the same, each time you bend it will work harden a bit so stop and re-do the process.
The Tool Tyrant
ALLIANCE MEMBER
WRONG! gungatim is correct.
I guess it can be done both ways. I thought about steel, but copper is different in this way. Obviously it works without quenching as shown on my picture
Yeah. You do not have to quench it, but quenching also helps blow off some of the oxide that forms during annealing. Some alloys like all types of steel, and antimony/lead alloys harden if you quench them.
ClappedOutBport
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Congrats. That's a great deal on a brand new compressor.
Unfortunately I will need to spend more on it. Hence questions:
1. What pressure regulator/filter you would recommend? This one doesn't have output regulator, just pressure switch with gauge. I was thinking something like that, but wonder if it's good/bad or any other helpful suggestions? On a budget!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MXZ55D7/?tag=atomicindus08-20
2. There is 2 outlets on a tank. One on left up high, one on right towards bottom. Currently right one has hole, but positioning-wise I will need to use left one. I guess it's OK? What kind of wrench do you use on those huge plugs?
3. I want to quiet it down as much as possible with as little work as possible (no enclosures building..)
I know I can use cheap muffler on intake. But since I spent not so much on compressor, maybe there is specialized/better solutions?
4. Manual suggests bolting compressor directly to the concrete floor(without rubber). In my case I'm not sure floor is perfectly leveled. I was thinking mounting pressure treated wood to the floor, level those and then install compressor on top with rubber. Use wooden "screws" to mount it. Just like it's mounted now on pallet. Seems like people used it like that on wood pallet.
1. What pressure regulator/filter you would recommend? This one doesn't have output regulator, just pressure switch with gauge. I was thinking something like that, but wonder if it's good/bad or any other helpful suggestions? On a budget!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MXZ55D7/?tag=atomicindus08-20
2. There is 2 outlets on a tank. One on left up high, one on right towards bottom. Currently right one has hole, but positioning-wise I will need to use left one. I guess it's OK? What kind of wrench do you use on those huge plugs?
3. I want to quiet it down as much as possible with as little work as possible (no enclosures building..)
I know I can use cheap muffler on intake. But since I spent not so much on compressor, maybe there is specialized/better solutions?
4. Manual suggests bolting compressor directly to the concrete floor(without rubber). In my case I'm not sure floor is perfectly leveled. I was thinking mounting pressure treated wood to the floor, level those and then install compressor on top with rubber. Use wooden "screws" to mount it. Just like it's mounted now on pallet. Seems like people used it like that on wood pallet.
bochnak
Well-known member
1. I have an older version of this one:
https://www.tptools.com/1and2-Delux...ulator-and-Separator-Combo,8658.html?b=d*8088
3. Solberg mufflers or a car muffler:
4. Don't bolt it to the floor. Instead buy leveling rubber feet from mcmaster.
Don't forget to calculate your new CFM:
If you are spinning it faster then recommended, you may want to put an amp meter and measure current draw. Higher RPM is more load on motor.
Matt
Matt, thank you!
I was excited see it running, didn't do any measurements yet but I will.
I have a "quest" in front of me. Which involves taking everything (motor/pump) out again, calling 2 friends, somehow moving tank to my basement and do final reassembly on a spot where compressor will live.
According to factory spec I only spin it 20RPM over, will see what kind of amperage motor pulls but it runs on a 30A breaker just fine. Starts very easy too.
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bochnak
Well-known member
Sounds good. Forgot the RPM spec, I just remember mine was 800 so yours seemed high when I first read it.
Will see what my "boss" says once we hear it running downstairs. I got it like this mainly because I got good deal on a pulley. Properly sized one to spin closer to 700 would cost extra. If that becomes an issue I can always change it.
My current compressor not much quieter (if any), so it should be ok I think.
Hockey pucks make cheap and excellent cushions for a compressor (what I use), drill and countersink for bolts and attach right to the legs. shim with washers if needed to level. I use them full size but have cut them in half to use for smaller machines or portable benchtop mounts. I don't like anything that vibrates as much as a compressor bolted to the floor directly.
make sure you figure on a good way to drain the tank, I like a ballvalve off a pipe extension, keeps some of the water out of the tank (and in the pipe) and is quick to empty without screwing with a little brass drain, plus you can route it outside or into a pan or something without the mess. there are good auto-drains out there as well but I don't trust them to get all the water out unless it is used and cycled a lot.
nice job on the copper, looks good.
make sure you figure on a good way to drain the tank, I like a ballvalve off a pipe extension, keeps some of the water out of the tank (and in the pipe) and is quick to empty without screwing with a little brass drain, plus you can route it outside or into a pan or something without the mess. there are good auto-drains out there as well but I don't trust them to get all the water out unless it is used and cycled a lot.
nice job on the copper, looks good.
Good idea. Do you bolt to the floor at all? I prefer not to unless absolutely necessary..
I was thinking maybe mount pump itself through some kind of plastic washers..
I am actually thinking about it. My use pattern is very random. And its very unlikely I will do a good job draining compressor. I have extension already (see pic). But I wonder if I should add something to the bottom to increase volume. Maybe some kind of coiled copper.. Automatic ones don't really suit my use case well.
Thanks!
Compressor being broken in right now (20 min with open valve)
Drawing little less than 11A on each leg, seems like it's just perfect.
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Buy a sheet of nitrile/neoprene anti vibration mat from MSC. Cut a square for each leg of your compressor. It'll quiet the compressor, cut down on vibration and keep it from moving. (it's great stuff)
https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn...chterm=anti+vibration+rubber&navid=4287923249
https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn...chterm=anti+vibration+rubber&navid=4287923249
Nice plumbing job!
ClappedOutBport
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Don't worry too much about level or bolting that much. Dad's have been sitting on quite unlevel concrete with no padding for longer than I have been around. They are horizontal though.
I am not concerned about compressor tipping over. It's more about "walking". Current one didn't go anywhere, so I also don't see any issue with this one.
I'm thinking about getting those, cheaper than pucks and designed for what I need them for:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KFZ1G6W/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Already ordered regulator suggested above. Getting there. Still need to finish adjust pressure and measure time to fill/CFM
I'm thinking about getting those, cheaper than pucks and designed for what I need them for:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KFZ1G6W/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Already ordered regulator suggested above. Getting there. Still need to finish adjust pressure and measure time to fill/CFM
Here is my suggestion for #3. Either:
Get an intake filter/housing like this one (not saying this exact model but this shape/configuration)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00792599Y/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Then add about 2-3' of rubber hose onto the inlet. I did that with my compressor. It dropped the sound level about 8 db vs no muffler at all.
My setup looked a lot like this guy's but I didn't bother with the stuff after the hose.
You might even be able to try something like this with your compressor. Just buy several hoses and put them in each inlet of the filter housing
However, that last one will restrict the inlet size. That MIGHT reduce flow if the inlets don't have a lot of excess capacity. Inclidentally, my small California Air Tool's compressor came from the factory with a small bit of hose in the air filter (about 4"). It made a very notable difference when I took it out. That was were I got the idea to use rubber hose.
OR...
My other low cost suggestion would be to get some pipe fittings then put that 2-3ft of rubber hose between the pump head and the air filter housing. I suspect that will work just as well but I haven't tried it myself.
In all of the above I advocate using some type of hose/tubing. My guess is that the tubing acts as a muffler by slightly expanding and contracting with the pressure pulses going through the intake. Thus it muffles the pressure pulses before the sound travels out of the inlet. These ideas may not be perfect but you can try them for just a few dollars and a trip to the hardware store.
Thanks for all suggestions! Since I'm taking welding classes now, I may just get cheap muffler, weld on bracket and weld adapters for pipe and filter. Should filter be before muffler?
Also, I think I kind of figured out why original compressor pump went. Switch was set way high, above 180PSI if gauge correct. For my use and to make it little easier for pump I backed it off to like 150PSI max.
Now, something I don't understand. How do I measure AMPs on motor? It was 8.9 each leg when motor spinning by itself. With pump (open tank) it was like 10.9
Now when it pumps under pressure it's like 17-18A each leg. Is that correct? It amperage taken from single leg?
Pressure switch has termal overload set at 22A, switch rated to 30A and I have 30A line. Will be just perfect for my setup.
Going to test CFMs now after fixing some leaks..
Also, I think I kind of figured out why original compressor pump went. Switch was set way high, above 180PSI if gauge correct. For my use and to make it little easier for pump I backed it off to like 150PSI max.
Now, something I don't understand. How do I measure AMPs on motor? It was 8.9 each leg when motor spinning by itself. With pump (open tank) it was like 10.9
Now when it pumps under pressure it's like 17-18A each leg. Is that correct? It amperage taken from single leg?
Pressure switch has termal overload set at 22A, switch rated to 30A and I have 30A line. Will be just perfect for my setup.
Going to test CFMs now after fixing some leaks..
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Aaand. Final results.
Ran it from empty to 150PSI 5:51
Then bleed it until it kicked in (~125) and to 150PSI in exactly 1 minute
According to those formulas
I got somewhere between 18.2-18.7 CFM which is right in line with what T39 specs with my RPMs calling. Obviously there is variables like bad pressure gauge, sea level, etc. But it's right there and I'm happy with whole result.
Ran it from empty to 150PSI 5:51
Then bleed it until it kicked in (~125) and to 150PSI in exactly 1 minute
According to those formulas
I got somewhere between 18.2-18.7 CFM which is right in line with what T39 specs with my RPMs calling. Obviously there is variables like bad pressure gauge, sea level, etc. But it's right there and I'm happy with whole result.
The current it's a loop. So, unless something is very wrong, the current on the first hot wire (L1) is the same as the other (L2) and the current going into either one is "the current through the motor".
As for the muffler, I don't think it matters where you put the filter other than if the plumbing after the compressor is dirty that goes in your compressor. If you don't mind buying a new filter housing I would suggest trying just adding the hose, then add the muffler to the end of the hose.
Alternatively, go with a rubber hose to muffler to air filter. The rubber hosebwill flex and prevent stress on the head since this is going to be a big assembly.
Before bothering with the muffler, try the rubber hose. It makes a remarkable difference.
As for the muffler, I don't think it matters where you put the filter other than if the plumbing after the compressor is dirty that goes in your compressor. If you don't mind buying a new filter housing I would suggest trying just adding the hose, then add the muffler to the end of the hose.
Alternatively, go with a rubber hose to muffler to air filter. The rubber hosebwill flex and prevent stress on the head since this is going to be a big assembly.
Before bothering with the muffler, try the rubber hose. It makes a remarkable difference.
Little update and question.
Running it as is, didn't add hose, everyone used to noise and it's not that bad actually.
Today (after 4 month) I changed oil. It was pretty dirty. I would estimate max 2hr of total running time. Is that to be expected from new pump? (even though one stored from 1990)
Also, this is oil I use, good review on Amazon. Should I switch? Currently my idea is to do another oil change in 3-4 month and see.
Running it as is, didn't add hose, everyone used to noise and it's not that bad actually.
Today (after 4 month) I changed oil. It was pretty dirty. I would estimate max 2hr of total running time. Is that to be expected from new pump? (even though one stored from 1990)
Also, this is oil I use, good review on Amazon. Should I switch? Currently my idea is to do another oil change in 3-4 month and see.
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Jim, I am OP.
1. Quincy did not even respond to me about buying new pump.
2. I wasn't owner of compressor when it grenaded.
3. I imagine it is overheat/hard use situation with bad maintenance.
Compressor came from granite shop. Air filter was plugged with stone dust. It took me 30 minutes blowing out electric motor from different angles and stone dust kept coming out..
So, who knows what happened but since I got it like this - not really my business to try and tell them something if they don't even want to sell me a new one
