Bought a tracksaw. Will I still need a circular saw?

[OSULemon]

Recently purchased the Makita 6-1/2" tracksaw w/guide rail off Amazon Warehouse:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00CHN6L74/ref=dp_olp_used?ie=UTF8&condition=used

Purchased mainly because:

1. It was a good deal
2. I have only my craptastic HF 7-1/4" circular with a flimsy baseplate and it doesn't cut the straightest
3. I've begun regularly cutting sheets of plywood, MDF, hardboard, etc.

My question is - I was looking at the 5007MGA before I purchased this. Will I still have need for a regular circular now? Without having the saw in my hands yet, I'm not sure how the dust collection and plunge control will affect the regular duties my circular has undertaken thus far: e.g, cross-cutting 2x4's.

Worth noting that all work will be done in the garage, not on the jobsite, and I plan on making a crosscut jig for it.

 

[matt_i]

Mt thoughts are if you ever intend to have an outdoor construction site (framing, building footings, etc) then I would keep the circular saw. Imo, its tougher and less to lose in that kind of dirty environment. If I were lucky enough to own a track saw I would want to use it in genteel conditions and not on a jobsite like above.

 

[QwikKotaTx]

Get a cordless circ saw if anything.

 

[manwithtools]

You still want a circular saw. I'd be tempted to look on ebay or even pawn shops for an older Porter Cable, Dewalt, Milwaukee or the like in good shape. Look for a drop foot design, not a pivoting type if you want to have a good saw for the miscellaneous cuts. Invest in good blade for it that's appropriate for the material you will be cutting.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[Voi]

My question is - I was looking at the 5007MGA before I purchased this. Will I still have need for a regular circular now? Without having the saw in my hands yet, I'm not sure how the dust collection and plunge control will affect the regular duties my circular has undertaken thus far: e.g, cross-cutting 2x4's.

I'm pretty sure that Makita has a 2" cut depth so it should handle 2x4. I've seen people make short jigs with small chunks of track just for cross cutting lumber. Basically a chunk of track with a perpendicular straight edge that holds the track square to the edge.

If I were in your shoes I'd keep the HF saw as a beater and pick up a miter saw. You might have enough overlap with the three tools you don't need to pick up a better quality circular saw right away.

 

[Falcon67]

Yes. I have an older Craftsman circular that's done real well for many years. It replaced a 20 something Skill that finally died. I have a sliding miter and a quality 48" circular saw guide - not much I can't do with those tools. Easily built my 24x40 with those.

 

[Playwme]

Yep, always need a circular saw. There's always those times you just need a quick rough cut or a cut on a wall where you can't clamp the track to.
I've been meaning to get one of those track saws to replace my MLT100 bench saw. Full sheets are hard to run through that by myself, although it does make ripping down a lot easier if you just need to take off 10mm from a long length. I've been getting away with clamping a guide bar to my sheets and using a $100 Makita circular. It's small and light, with enough grunt to cut well but not so much it kicks and is hard to steer.

 

[OSULemon]

Thanks all. Seeing as I'm already invested in Milwaukee's M18 line, I've been looking at both their 6-1/2 and 7-1/4 Fuel circulars as well. Track saw for the garage, cordless for mobility?

I use Freud blades for almost everything I own. Very happy with them.

Yes. I have an older Craftsman circular that's done real well for many years. It replaced a 20 something Skill that finally died. I have a sliding miter and a quality 48" circular saw guide - not much I can't do with those tools. Easily built my 24x40 with those.

To be honest, regular circular w/homemade track saw was the direction I was headed, when all of a sudden, Makita's tracksaw popped up $150 off regular price, and I decided it was all aboard the hype train and if I wanted off, I could re-sell for the same. Do I need the precision of the track? Probably not. Without a tablesaw, though...it can't hurt.

 

[rsanter]

Yes for general purpose and loaning out to friends I would keep the cheap one

Bob

 

[Radix2]

Ditto on the inexpensive miter saw ...and set it up on sawhorses - unless you really need to free Hand something or work on the ground - don't. You will need a circular saw, but nice accurate square cuts make everything better.

 

[Cyberbear]

I've always relied on my 7.5" Skillsaw and after market aluminum rip guide with a clamp to hold it in place while cutting sheet stock on saw horses. This is a bit awkward but gets the job done when necessary. Of course, I prefer using my Delta 10" table saw with unifence, or the vertical panel saw for the more precise cuts.

 

[James-W]

I agree with the miter saw crowd, but I wouldn't get a really cheap one. I would suggest getting a mid range priced miter saw, preferably a sliding miter saw. Once you have it I am fairly certain you will use it a lot more than you think you will. I would also get a stand with extending arms to set the saw on. They are extremely useful to have and once again, when you have it you will find yourself using it all the time.

But I would definitely keep the circular saw. There are many times when a circular saw is the best tool for the job.

 

[boiler7904]

I've had a DeWalt Tracksaw for close to 5 years and still use my regular Milwaukee 7 1/4" pretty regularly for tasks you can't or wouldn't want to use a tracksaw for like cutting corrugated metal, framing lumber, exterior sheathing and the like that would destroy expensive tracksaw finish blades.

 

[the GOAT]

As others have said you'll still want a circular saw...but ill add that if you are right handed get one with the blade on the left.