Bought my first Ride on mower....

[MagicMarker]

We closed on our first house last October. We're sitting on half an acre and I thought I could handle it with a good push mower. So I bought a Snapper hi vac and learned that bagging ***** and using a side discharge makes a mess. I dealt with it until this year as my theory was as long as I can still walk, I should get the exercise. This got old fast.

I did my research and compared a lot of rear engine ride ons vs. lawn tractors. I chose a Rear Rider as it is fairly compact and it will fit in my storage shed (just need to get a ramp). It's living in the garage for now.

I chose a Snapper and it's great. I had the mulching blade installed and mowed the lawn and I wasn't exhausted afterwards. It's going to take me a bit of time figure out the best mowing pattern without wasting time.

I have learned there are some limitations since the turning radius isn't as easy as a 180 with a push mower. Of course in learning.. I scalped a bit of grass so I hope it comes back.

I'm open to any suggestions on keeping the new purchase in great condition and for any lawn mowing advice/ techniques.

 

[jd_1138]

Nice Snapper! For the mowing pattern, I just do a clockwise, right turns pattern over the whole yard ending up in the middle. I have a Snapper that I just got, an older one. I didn't thoroughly check it out. The motor is worn out.

 

[wyo george]

Suggestions:

Wash it thoroughly after each use with no exceptions

Use a good gas stabilizer

Check tire pressure before each use, tires being unequal will make the mower sit uneven which means uneven cuts!

It's nice to have a rider, the first five years we lived here I cut 2-1/2 acres with an 18" push mower. It took approximately 14-16 hours to cut the grass if I went at it hard with minimal breaks. Now it takes about 4-1/2 to 5 hours with a 46" mower.

 

[CTyankee]

Nice ride...Does the deck just float under those rigs or are there wheels/rollers ?

 

[Zapp Branigan]

It takes some time to figure out a pattern around objects so you don't have to make sharp turns or back up a lot. It'll work itself out with time. I like to cut everything twice. Once I go square to my buildings, and then I cut a second time at 30 degrees in large areas and 90 degrees in small areas. I mulch too, and the second cross-cut really helps.

 

[RiverRider]

I've used a spiral cutting pattern on both large tractors and smaller lawn tractors in large open areas. I think it's more efficient, but I've never actually measured the time I think it saves.

 

[Scott r c]

Suggestions:

Wash it thoroughly after each use with no exceptions

Use a good gas stabilizer

Check tire pressure before each use, tires being unequal will make the mower sit uneven which means uneven cuts!

It's nice to have a rider, the first five years we lived here I cut 2-1/2 acres with an 18" push mower. It took approximately 14-16 hours to cut the grass if I went at it hard with minimal breaks. Now it takes about 4-1/2 to 5 hours with a 46" mower.

I prefer to never wash, I just blow the grass off of it. I don't want it rusting.

 

[wyo george]

I prefer to never wash, I just blow the grass off of it. I don't want it rusting.

I guess it's like most things, opinions vary and everyone's opinion has a degree of merit. For me just blowing off doesn't get the clumps which I believe will create rusty spots. Rinsing the grass clean and letting it drip dry has worked well for me, my last mower had about ten years on it when I upgraded and it didn't have a single rust hole in the deck despite washing it out after every use.

Still, whatever works for you is probably just fine as long as you're not ignoring it and leaving giant clumps of grass stuck under the deck and in all the crevices of the machine.

 

[jd_1138]

I had to scrap a 10 year old Craftsman push mower this summer due to rust. I never washed the grass out of the bottom, so it rusted out. The engine is still running great because I changed the oil every other year and the spark plug and air filter too. Big 7 HP B&S on a simple non-self propelled deck.

 

[MagicMarker]

I guess it's like most things, opinions vary and everyone's opinion has a degree of merit. For me just blowing off doesn't get the clumps which I believe will create rusty spots. Rinsing the grass clean and letting it drip dry has worked well for me, my last mower had about ten years on it when I upgraded and it didn't have a single rust hole in the deck despite washing it out after every use.

Still, whatever works for you is probably just fine as long as you're not ignoring it and leaving giant clumps of grass stuck under the deck and in all the crevices of the machine.

After today's first cut, I just blew any debris off with my leaf blower... I didn't even think of cleaning under the deck. What is the best way to do that? Just run a hose underneath it and then turn it on to dry it?

 

[wyo george]

After today's first cut, I just blew any debris off with my leaf blower... I didn't even think of cleaning under the deck. What is the best way to do that? Just run a hose underneath it and then turn it on to dry it?

This is where opinions vary. I prefer to use high pressure water to blast all the grass clumps out.

 

[MagicMarker]

Nice ride...Does the deck just float under those rigs or are there wheels/rollers ?

It just floats... hence I scalped a small patch today. Grrr

 

[hangfirew8]

I think that's an optimal choice for your situation!

For lawn mowing techniques, I try to get all the edging, backing and corners out of the way on the first go-round, then mow in decreasing squares (with rounded corners) blowing outward. If it blows out one side, don't blow grass into the A/C or Heat Pump unit! And don't be afraid to bend future landscaping choices towards ease of mowing.

I hit all the bright metal with FluidFilm twice a year. I blow mine off after every use, no exceptions, with a fairly powerful leaf blower, including underneath and under the hood from all angles. Every blade sharpening I clean and inspect the deck and sand and paint any spots that need it. I don't know how many Zerk fittings yours has, if it has some be sure to lube it when you sharpen the blade(s).

I'm not sure if you even have a hood or a mower deck chute, but I'm sure you can adapt what I say to your needs.

 

[onarant]

My dad had a Snapper for about ten years, then he gave it to me and I used it for another 6-7 years before it finally gave up the ghost. Just keep it clean, tires aired up change belts as recommended and oil changes. It will last you many years.

 

[DWise]

I make three laps around the perimeter, discharging inward. That way you do not throw grass into the street or your neighbors. I try to mow a different direction each mowing, across, and diagonal.

 

[Chevy-SS]

IMHO, moisture is the biggest enemy of mowers. Try to mow when dry and keep deck dry at all times.

Next issue is maintenance... change oil..... lube cables and wheels and all other moving parts... keep blades sharp and balanced... tire pressure... take battery out in off-season and trickle-charge...etc, etc

All easy stuff, but just enough of a PITA that most people don't do.

-

 

[Muffduster]

Let me know when that Snapper celebrates it's 35th birthday.

 

[warmpancakes]

before first cutting coat the underside of the deck with this

http://www.grainger.com/product/SLIP-PLATE-Dry-Film-Lube-1WVK7

soak it, the stuff stays on, i use it to keep exhaust manifolds looking new.

then just spray the underside off with hose, recoat before first cut of season,

use ethanol free gas, and sta-bil

never cut wet grass

 

[Firebrick43]

It's really hard for me to look at a small mower and sing praises. Mowing 5+ acres for nearly my whole life and owning big 982 ih cub cadet garden tractors to exmark zero turns does that. But I will say that snapper make a nice mower that is time proven. A friend neighbor used one to mow 3 acres without many issues for nearly a decade (other than taking way to long,but that not really the mowers fault) I helped him change out the friction cone and wheel once and that was about it. Always wished I could clean my deck/sharpen blades buy just flipping the tractor up on its rear end.

Found that brushing on slip plate yearly
on the underside always prolongs deck life and keeps buildup down.

 

[honcho]

That basic snapper design has been around forever. Looking at the Snapper website, it appears that style of rear engine rider can be had with a hydrostatic transmission as well as their simple and reliable 6 speed "rubber disc" transmission. I have two snapper self-propelled mowers (non-rider) that are at least 25 years old and while the engines require maintenance, I've only had to replace wheels and a bearing on the rear drive shaft in 15 years of use.

Sadly, Snapper sold out to Briggs & Stratton a few years ago so a lot of their products have undergone "value optimization" which is better known as make cheaper for more profit.

 

[greenlizard]

You'll like that Snapper. Don't over inflate the tires as that makes for a rough ride. Change the motor oil yearly, wash it occasionally, and never leave it out in the weather. My 28" Hi-Vac is a one pull starter with little visible wear after 14 years of weekly summer use. A couple of things: if you run it over tall wet grass or weeds you can stop the blade which then burns the drive belt causing an out of balance shaking. Replacing the belt is easy and cheap. Also, keep an eye on the rear axle accordion boots as they seem to have a life span of about 8 ~ 10 years depending on your terrain.

 

[Jim_No_Garage]

Good luck with your Snapper - I started moving my 1+ acre of lawn with a similar Craftsman mower 20 years ago. After a while I moved up to a larger lawn tractor that would allow bagging.

With regard to the pattern of cutting - you will figure it out. You want to try to mow along the longest distance of the area so you have to turn around less. You can cut at 45 degree angles either way to vary the cut. Once it's mowed I like to cut around the outside with 2 or 3 passes to cover all of the turn around marks on the borders and clean it up..

I worked for a lawn cutting service at 17 so I like to have a nicely mowed lawn. My 17 year old so feels less enthusiastic on the matter . . .

Having a nicely moved lawn reminds me of Yankee Stadium - though I'm not that nuts about my lawn.

I'm in the dirty mower deck club - I really need to pull it and clean it - like for 3+ years. Maybe next week . . .

Cheers

Jim

 

[gearhead1]

I rinse off the underside of the deck with the hose on jet mode. Yes it gets the deck wet, but so does the grass. The grass can hold water to the deck (causing rust) when it's off the deck, it will dry.

I use Stabil in all small engines. The stuff works, it's not a gimmick. I use it all year so when the cutting season is done, I park it. In the spring, I use it and run the first tank empty. Then use fresh gas. (I dump all my small engine gas in my oldest vehicle at the end of the season. Then I'm using fresh every spring.)

Consider using non-ethanol gas, google search for your area.

Keep the air filter and oil changed per directions. The air cleaner will get dirty and a lot of people neglect/completely forget about it.

Get a battery maintainer or else you'll be buying a battery every spring.

 

[t100]

I bought an old JD 1991 LX176 with 38" deck in the winter on a whim after closed on our new home, boy now I know what I've been missing over the years.

We are on .38ac but because it's next to a retention pond, it's more like .7ac.

so far, I'm lov' it.

 

[cuengineer]

That Snapper should last a long, long time if you take reasonable care of it. Biggest thing is lubrication, changing oil and greasing. Also, checking tire pressure each time. Real gas help, too, as the most common issue with the engines seems to be needing to rebuild the carb -- you see this all the time on CL. I have 2 older Snappers that I use to cut grass at 4 houses. My first one was built in the '70's, and the newer one in the mid-80's. Both have B&S engines and work well. The newer mowers have lots of new features similar to the ways cars have added new features. Being an engineer, I am always impressed at the simplicity of the drive system with 5 speeds but no gears.

Also, for those who may wonder how much area you can cut in an hour, here is a simple equation that can be used to estimate area that I learned as a young boy.

A = (W * V)/10 where A = area in acres (1 ac =43,560 ft^2), W = effective width of cut, and V = Velocity in mph. For example, if your mower has an effective width of 3 ft and you travel at 4 mph, A = (3*4)/10 = 1.2 ac/hr. This allows for some turnaround time but obviously, if you spend a lot of time going around trees and shrubs, your velocity may drop appreciably.

 

[MagicMarker]

Wow...thanks for all the great advice and comments on Snappers in general. I almost look fwd to mowing the lawn now since I don't need to push a mower anymore... I have a fenced in yard and surprised how close I can actually get to the fence.

It's all a learning experience and I'm still figuring out the mowing patterns to be time effective. Thanks to all. Sometimes I feel that I alone help keep my local power equipment store in business.

 

[rmitchell248]

Can't beat a good garden tractor. I have a 60 inch cub cadet and love it.

 

[TommyK]

Would this be good for a slope? Seems like it has a low center of gravity.

 

[MagicMarker]

I have a very minor slope to parts of the property... no issues yet, but since there are no anti scalping wheels... yeah I scalped a bit of my lawn....

 

[Zapp Branigan]

I have a very minor slope to parts of the property... no issues yet, but since there are no anti scalping wheels... yeah I scalped a bit of my lawn....

Were you going up and down the slope, or sideways? I get a better finish going up and down. My 54" deck has 5 anti scalp wheels, so it scalpes 5 times worse when it scalps. I believe it's bad for oiling riding sideways too.