Boxing a frame
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Rookie2
Well-known member
1/8" on frame boxing
383 240z
Well-known member
I use the same thickness as the parent material.
willymakeit
Well-known member
What kind of auto on patch's Ford used 19 ga. on some ,odd size so I usually will go 18 or 20 depending on what I'm doing. As mentioned 1/8 for boxing.
coljar
Well-known member
As mentioned 1/8". It's my go to for boxing.
zmaxmotorsports
Well-known member
Frame boxing depends on the thickness of original frame.For patch panels I normally use 22g ,Floors and firewalls normally use thicker material depending on the vehicle.
For my Kawasaki frame brace gusset kits I normally use 14g
For my Kawasaki frame brace gusset kits I normally use 14g
Jagmandave
Well-known member
General question about the subject, if you don't box the entire frame, have you gained anything?
I see guys who only box parts of it, and wonder if that doesn't just transfer the stress to those areas that aren't boxed?
I see guys who only box parts of it, and wonder if that doesn't just transfer the stress to those areas that aren't boxed?
mustangmike6996
Well-known member
That is a good question. I do know that it adds strength where it is needed. If partially boxing, I suggest gusseting the remainder of the frame as well.
I know many people box the front setions of frames to add different motor mount setups where they were never designed to reside.
Spudland_Dave
Well-known member
I don't see frame boxing as "adding" any strength in the big picture...as mentioned, unless you box the WHOLE thing, still gonna be a weak link somewhere. If you need a super strong frame, probably best to just build one from scratch using rectangle tubing...
Frame boxing to me is just as mentioned, to be able to mount different engines, make a section stronger due to customization like a C-Notch or different suspension...
Frame boxing to me is just as mentioned, to be able to mount different engines, make a section stronger due to customization like a C-Notch or different suspension...
ttpete
Well-known member
In a "C" section frame rail, the horizontal top and bottom sections carry the load. The vertical web is a truss member. It's OK to put holes and brackets in the web, but not in the top or bottom. It drives me nuts to see someone drilling or notching the top or bottom rail because it weakens the frame at that point.
zmaxmotorsports
Well-known member
Ive seen many hacked up frame mods over the years,what really irritates me is some of butchered /half assed sub frame jobs ive seen where people obviously couldn't use a tape measure or square.
And whats even worse is the bubble gum welding and verticle welds on frame pieces that should never of been done that way!
If I had a dollar for every crooked *** nova/camaro sub Ive had to cut off/redo over the years ,or every model A frame Ive had to unbox and straighten out before reboxing it because some idiot didn't have the brains to run a tape measure and level before boxing it to make sure it was straight,or he wasn't smart enough to have it mounted to a solid/level surface when boxing it and to check for square during the boxing process.
Don't get me started!
A lot of frames have documented weaks points, and boxing at those locations makes a ton of difference. Its a big deal with older Toyota Tacomas for example.
Ive seen many hacked up frame mods over the years,what really irritates me is some of butchered /half assed sub frame jobs ive seen where people obviously couldn't use a tape measure or square.
And whats even worse is the bubble gum welding and verticle welds on frame pieces that should never of been done that way!
If I had a dollar for every crooked *** nova/camaro sub Ive had to cut off/redo over the years ,or every model A frame Ive had to unbox and straighten out before reboxing it because some idiot didn't have the brains to run a tape measure and level before boxing it to make sure it was straight,or he wasn't smart enough to have it mounted to a solid/level surface when boxing it and to check for square during the boxing process.
Don't get me started!
Yeah...........I need to get you started. I'm planning on doing away with the front suspension from a '42 Ford 1-1/2 ton truck and replacing it with a mid 80's 3/4 ton Chevy suspension.
Before the everybody starts bashing me, That's what I have so that's whats going in it!
Now, I don't know yet weather I'm going to just cut the frames and weld them together, or remove the chevy suspension, modify the Ford frame to accept the Chevy suspension as they are pretty close dimensionally. Your input on the pros an cons of both methods and a basic run down on how to do it would be appreciated.
I'm not ready to chop yet, and I hate to ask this question early as some here are quick to point out that I shouldn't be doing this because I've never done it before or my terminology isn't correct..................
zmaxmotorsports
Well-known member
Are you going to leave the truck a dually? Ive done the cross member/suspension swap from a mid 70s chevy 1 ton on to a 1950 chevy/gmc frame back in the days ,it came out looking like it rolled off the assembly line but took some narrowing of cross member and some really good welding and some grinding/buffing to hide that what work was done.
Before you get too carried away measure the outside width on the front tires to get a general idea if theyre close,then measure the frame widths where the cross member will be going to see if its going to throw you off.
Ive got a chevy 3/4 front stub sitting down by the barn still I think,I can measure it for you Friday/sat when Im back down there again if you want.
If you decide to leave the truck a dually Id check and see if you can mount rotors from a 1t dually on to the 3/4t spindles,Or you might be able to see if you can unbolt the old dually extensions from the old ford drums if they were 8 lug bolted to the drum.
Can you post pictures of the ford drums/hubs?
Before you get too carried away measure the outside width on the front tires to get a general idea if theyre close,then measure the frame widths where the cross member will be going to see if its going to throw you off.
Ive got a chevy 3/4 front stub sitting down by the barn still I think,I can measure it for you Friday/sat when Im back down there again if you want.
If you decide to leave the truck a dually Id check and see if you can mount rotors from a 1t dually on to the 3/4t spindles,Or you might be able to see if you can unbolt the old dually extensions from the old ford drums if they were 8 lug bolted to the drum.
Can you post pictures of the ford drums/hubs?
ttpete
Well-known member
Are you going to leave the truck a dually? Ive done the cross member/suspension swap from a mid 70s chevy 1 ton on to a 1950 chevy/gmc frame back in the days ,it came out looking like it rolled off the assembly line but took some narrowing of cross member and some really good welding and some grinding/buffing to hide that what work was done.
Before you get too carried away measure the outside width on the front tires to get a general idea if theyre close,then measure the frame widths where the cross member will be going to see if its going to throw you off.
Ive got a chevy 3/4 front stub sitting down by the barn still I think,I can measure it for you Friday/sat when Im back down there again if you want.
If you decide to leave the truck a dually Id check and see if you can mount rotors from a 1t dually on to the 3/4t spindles,Or you might be able to see if you can unbolt the old dually extensions from the old ford drums if they were 8 lug bolted to the drum.
Can you post pictures of the ford drums/hubs?
I have a Ford parts book for 1938-46, and the wheels look to be 6 lugs either 17 or 18 inch, and they are three piece split ring.
No. 3/4 ton rear end. The og "banjo" rear end has got to go so I can drive on interstates safely and new brakes vs old.
My welding skills are ok as are my metal skills, so I'm ok there.
cool. Don't put yourself out on getting it measured, I don't have the donor truck yet. It's been raining and the guy can't get it out of his pasture yet. But in a few weeks I should have it. I have the ford right here.
Pics coming. it may be tomorrow tho, I don't have cell service out here to upload to photo bucket.........On second thought, I may have one stashed.
My welding skills are ok as are my metal skills, so I'm ok there.
cool. Don't put yourself out on getting it measured, I don't have the donor truck yet. It's been raining and the guy can't get it out of his pasture yet. But in a few weeks I should have it. I have the ford right here.
Pics coming. it may be tomorrow tho, I don't have cell service out here to upload to photo bucket.........On second thought, I may have one stashed.
best one I have on file.
I started a thread asking about lifting it (I wanted to run the military 40" tires) and got hammered on lifting a 2wd truck. Another member here oked me to pm him my stupid questions to cut down on the banter.
I started a thread asking about lifting it (I wanted to run the military 40" tires) and got hammered on lifting a 2wd truck. Another member here oked me to pm him my stupid questions to cut down on the banter.
you may have a book but I have real trucks and your book is wrong. The wheels are 5 lug and 20"
ilovevocs
Well-known member
If your intent is to add torsional rigidity to the frame triangulate it internally to the greatest extent possible then box it in.
ttpete
Well-known member
Lacking the exact model number and wheelbase, it's difficult to tell which variation it is.
madoc1
Well-known member
good looking truck. could you just mount the body on a complete chev frame and suspension? you would good to go with brakes, etc. also the motor if you don't want to run the flattie, altho I think the flat head would be killer looking!
jim
jim
zmaxmotorsports
Well-known member
Are you going to make a 3/4-1t dually out of it or are you just going with single wheels?
That would make a cool 1 ton dually truck.
BigMike782
Well-known member
Dam! I wish there were trucks around here like that......almost every one has long since been made into a new washing machine......multiple times.
I thought about that, but the donor truck has no title. That being said, the cat I,m trading with for the donor hasn't returned my texts today. It's been a month since I had contact with him, hope he hasn't got cold feet on me.
Are you going to make a 3/4-1t dually out of it or are you just going with single wheels?
That would make a cool 1 ton dually truck.
Single wheel is what I'm thinking right now.
Spareparts
Well-known member
Save that rear end, it will make killer jack stands LOL.