Boxing an I beam

[ratdoggy]

I have an I-beam I want to box in and cover with sheetrock. Would construction adhesive be good enough to attach 2X4's to it? Has anyone done this?

 

[ranger302]

It should work, however the better approach is to frame around it and rock that.

 

[Steevo]

Yes.
You can use construction adhesive to glue "nailers" to the inside and outside of the top and bottom flange, and then attach your sheet rock to those. I did this in a garage at a previous residence, and they have done it on several commercial projects where I work (which is where I got the idea).
If the whole beam is exposed, you can do just the outside nailers, but if the top is inaccessible, you have to go under the top flange. The ones shown over the top of the the bottom flange are superfluous, but could assure the nailers do not "fall" from the beam, once the sheet rock is screwed to them..

 

[DekeT]

It should work, however the better approach is to frame around it and rock that.

This is the best solution. Expansion, contraction, and beam bending is a construction consideration you want to avoid.

 

[ratdoggy]

Yes.
You can use construction adhesive to glue "nailers" to the inside and outside of the top and bottom flange, and then attach your sheet rock to those. I did this in a garage at a previous residence, and they have done it on several commercial projects where I work (which is where I got the idea).
If the whole beam is exposed, you can do just the outside nailers, but if the top is inaccessible, you have to go under the top flange. The ones shown over the top of the the bottom flange are superfluous, but could assure the nailers do not "fall" from the beam, once the sheet rock is screwed to them..

I like that idea. Like you say once the rock is screwed in they aren't going anyplace.

 

[Big Blue Car]

I personaly would not trust the construction adheasive 100%. If it were me I would glue the 2x4 to the bottom and top (like in the picture, but only the outside) then I would also install at least 2ea carrage bolts per 2x4 to be sure it will never sag.

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

Below are two pictures of a-typical I-beams and how to "finish" them.
The first pic is the old "standard" protocol for framing a dimensional lumber floor system with an I-beam. The I-beam would usually have small holes in the top and bottom flanges to attach 2X. The 2X would be the same width as the I-beam- that would be your nail structure for d/wall.
The second pic would be the usual build-out of an I-beam in a basement/terrace level finish. A soffit if you will- and generally bigger than the I-beam itself because of other mechanical features installed next to it.

 

[camarotoolman]

You could rent or borrow a "pin" gun and shoot you wood right to the beam. Or, run 2x2s horizonal, them use scrap plywood vertically and horizonally. Nail the ply on the inside, prefab on the floor then nail it up and add drywall. I do kitchen soffits above the top cabinets this way. quick and easy.

 

[Keep]

You could rent or borrow a "pin" gun and shoot you wood right to the beam. Or, run 2x2s horizonal, them use scrap plywood vertically and horizonally. Nail the ply on the inside, prefab on the floor then nail it up and add drywall. I do kitchen soffits above the top cabinets this way. quick and easy.

Never seen a gun that will push nails into steel. Concrete yes but not an I beam.

You have any pics?

*edit*

Hot damn learned something new today, did not think you could shoot a nail into 3/8 steel.

 

[Provincial]

You can buy an item called a beam clip from the places that sell steel studs. It has a rectangular box section with a spring clip attached that slips over the flange of the beam. You then run your screws into the box section to hold the drywall in place. They are often used in commercial applications. They have enough flexibility to let the beam flex without cracking the drywall.

 

[Scott65]

Below are two pictures of a-typical I-beams and how to "finish" them.
The first pic is the old "standard" protocol for framing a dimensional lumber floor system with an I-beam. The I-beam would usually have small holes in the top and bottom flanges to attach 2X. The 2X would be the same width as the I-beam- that would be your nail structure for d/wall.
The second pic would be the usual build-out of an I-beam in a basement/terrace level finish. A soffit if you will- and generally bigger than the I-beam itself because of other mechanical features installed next to it.

Either of these methods are preferrable. I would make sure to use a mechanical fastening system and not chance construction adhesive. There is no strong bond with a steel beam like there would be with some well placed nuts,bolts, and washers countersunk flush. You could use the adhesive in addition to the fasteners, but I would not use them alone. Expansion and contraction rate differences between the two materials will lead to premature failure.

 

[ratdoggy]

Never seen a gun that will push nails into steel. Concrete yes but not an I beam.

You have any pics?

*edit*

Hot damn learned something new today, did not think you could shoot a nail into 3/8 steel.

What is a pin gun?

 

[TAMPAGT07]

Geez, when I first saw the title " Boxing an I beam", I said to myself, "Man, ratdoggy must be a tough SOB, I wouldn't fight an I beam." I've been known to beat up a head of lettice or two, but a large piece of steal....Hell no, that thing would break my knuckles."

 

[Oggy]

The "pin gun" he's referring to would be a powder actuated fastener, most common for shooting nails into concrete, but yes, it will shoot into 3/8 steel, and is the method I would use. Make sure that you use a pin that's long enough to pass through your lumber and into your steel, so 3/8" + whatever your material is. Your pin should be knurled on the end, If you're using Hilti's cartridges you may be able to use the yellow, but otherwise you're probably going to need the red. After shooting you should see a raised area on the opposite side of the material, you don't need full penetration of the fastener, as it will "weld" itself as it displaces the metal going in. You'll most likely need a .27 cal, you can rent them at some home depot's, if you go that route you'll likely get a DX36M, great tool, easy to use, and you can get the Hilti cartridges and nails right there.

The tools are safe, they won't fire (if functioning properly) unless the nose is fully compressed against the material you're fastening, and the trigger is pulled. They are loud, so keep the kiddos out of the basement, and remember to wear hearing protection, as well as eye protection.

 

[rwhite692]

Yes.
You can use construction adhesive to glue "nailers" to the inside and outside of the top and bottom flange, and then attach your sheet rock to those. I did this in a garage at a previous residence, and they have done it on several commercial projects where I work (which is where I got the idea).
If the whole beam is exposed, you can do just the outside nailers, but if the top is inaccessible, you have to go under the top flange. The ones shown over the top of the the bottom flange are superfluous, but could assure the nailers do not "fall" from the beam, once the sheet rock is screwed to them..

^^^This, exactly. I have done it as well.

 

[rwhite692]

The "pin gun" he's referring to would be a powder actuated fastener, most common for shooting nails into concrete, but yes, it will shoot into 3/8 steel, and is the method I would use. Make sure that you use a pin that's long enough to pass through your lumber and into your steel, so 3/8" + whatever your material is. Your pin should be knurled on the end, If you're using Hilti's cartridges you may be able to use the yellow, but otherwise you're probably going to need the red. After shooting you should see a raised area on the opposite side of the material, you don't need full penetration of the fastener, as it will "weld" itself as it displaces the metal going in. You'll most likely need a .27 cal, you can rent them at some home depot's, if you go that route you'll likely get a DX36M, great tool, easy to use, and you can get the Hilti cartridges and nails right there.

The tools are safe, they won't fire (if functioning properly) unless the nose is fully compressed against the material you're fastening, and the trigger is pulled. They are loud, so keep the kiddos out of the basement, and remember to wear hearing protection, as well as eye protection.

^^^totally unnecessary, and way, way overkill for applying what is only a cosmetic enclosure, gee whiz!

 

[ratdoggy]

Yes.
You can use construction adhesive to glue "nailers" to the inside and outside of the top and bottom flange, and then attach your sheet rock to those. I did this in a garage at a previous residence, and they have done it on several commercial projects where I work (which is where I got the idea).
If the whole beam is exposed, you can do just the outside nailers, but if the top is inaccessible, you have to go under the top flange. The ones shown over the top of the the bottom flange are superfluous, but could assure the nailers do not "fall" from the beam, once the sheet rock is screwed to them..

Did this last night. Thanks for the idea.