In turn you are passing off what you learned to others. Well done sir and great work.
BTW, you might need to add another link in your sig soon for the new shop.
BP&B Hobby Shop
- Thread starter HD FLHX
- Start date
In turn you are passing off what you learned to others. Well done sir and great work.
BTW, you might need to add another link in your sig soon for the new shop.
60 weight
Member
Hey thanks for the involved examples for usage of both,I got it now.Just have to say your Granddad,dad and that old Ford Dealership sure did have a major impact on you and your future.Must have been a second home,LOL. Thanks
Vernon1969
Active member
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2016
- Messages
- 36
Very nice work there. Love how neat your shop is.
Wanna Ride
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 28, 2010
- Messages
- 2,790
I don't even know those old-timers, and I'm smiling right now as I type this. I can hear them in my head, snapping at you, as they show you the way. Gotta love the old timers... they're the ones with the awesome stories!
As always HD, more awesome progress on a badass build. Always love to stop in and check the progress! Thanks for sharing with us.
This is the EXACT thing I was referring to, here:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5947518&posted=1#post5947518
Stop by and check it out when you have a sec.
Finished up the left bedside this afternoon. The lower rear corners were rotted out and half assed patched up during its one repaint. I bought a set of repair panels from New England Speed Shop. They are American made, 16 gauge steel and fit very well.
You may notice the spots on the bedside I spot blasted. Those are factory spot welds attaching the outer skin to the inner wheel well and floor. The welds were filled and leveled out and then a skim coat of icing finished out to 180 grit before priming.
You may notice the spots on the bedside I spot blasted. Those are factory spot welds attaching the outer skin to the inner wheel well and floor. The welds were filled and leveled out and then a skim coat of icing finished out to 180 grit before priming.
Jeeper
Well-known member
You make it look too easy!
MP&C
Well-known member
Joe, you won't want to get rid of this one when you get done.. Looking sharp!
C_F
ALLIANCE MEMBER
He sure does!
dkroth
Well-known member
Finished up the left bedside this afternoon. The lower rear corners were rotted out and half assed patched up during its one repaint. I bought a set of repair panels from New England Speed Shop. They are American made, 16 gauge steel and fit very well.
Joe, great work as always. Great photography, too. Makes it a pleasure to follow along.
Question: Does anyone know how are these low volume patch panels or body panels made?
Obviously new parts are made on huge presses with expensive and sophistocated dies. But what about these low volume parts? Even if there's demand for a few hundred of these a year there can't be any economy in making a die for such a low volume part.
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I've emailed a couple companies inquiring about the need for 64 Fairlane panels and every answer I received back basically said they would never be able to have a return on the investment due to the low volume of sales. I looked Kustom Innovations up on web and found that these particular panels are stamped steel and made in the USA as I mentioned. I suppose since they are a relatively simple shape they could develop the dies and sell enough to see a return on their investment in the tooling. At $99.95 each they definitely were not cheap, but they fit very well.
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Like a few others have mentioned, it's a pleasure to follow along in your thread. It's great when a member documents his/her builds with text, great pictures and answers questions.
Jo Diesel
Well-known member
I love all the tin work. You are an inspiration
Have you chosen a color yet? I liked the color it was originally. Was that Wimbledon White? With Black or the Dark Green as the secondary color.
Have you chosen a color yet? I liked the color it was originally. Was that Wimbledon White? With Black or the Dark Green as the secondary color.
Working on the right bedside corner yesterday I made it a point to get a couple pics of the installation. Reason being I panel bonded part of it. (I actually done the left side the same way just didn't get a pic so I didn't mention it) Panel bonding has been around for more than 20 yrs now and is a modern practice in collision shops, but still seems to make people nervous about using it on restoration type work. I personally started using it in the late 90's after a 3m demonstration at the body shop and quickly realized its benefits and time savings which equal more money made when your on flat rate commision.
High quality prior repair
And here is where I panel bonded the new repair section on. The flat flange the butts up to the bedside and tailgate post would have to be plug welded from the backside in areas that are hard to get to. By using panel bonding epoxy it will be a stronger, more corrosion resistant and all around better repair in my opinion. Both surfaces need to be bare metal before the glue is applied to both matting surfaces and leveled out. I welded the **** joint up before the epoxy cured and left the clamp on overnight. After its cured unclamp and proceed to finish out the repairs.
I felt it was worth mentioning this type of repair process and although you have to have a special applicator gun and the panel bonding epoxy is expensive (around 50 bucks a tube) I feel in many instances it is the best method.
High quality prior repair
And here is where I panel bonded the new repair section on. The flat flange the butts up to the bedside and tailgate post would have to be plug welded from the backside in areas that are hard to get to. By using panel bonding epoxy it will be a stronger, more corrosion resistant and all around better repair in my opinion. Both surfaces need to be bare metal before the glue is applied to both matting surfaces and leveled out. I welded the **** joint up before the epoxy cured and left the clamp on overnight. After its cured unclamp and proceed to finish out the repairs.
I felt it was worth mentioning this type of repair process and although you have to have a special applicator gun and the panel bonding epoxy is expensive (around 50 bucks a tube) I feel in many instances it is the best method.
scrumpy
Well-known member
Wow, looking sharp, one of my favorite years. My shop teacher had a long bed in 4wd, black trimmed in white.
tlmartin84
Well-known member
Have you spent any more time looking at the FItech setup?
I have been reading/following a few others installs, and they seem to be having issues several of which have required them to send the units back for repair. Just curious if you have dug into it yet?
I have been reading/following a few others installs, and they seem to be having issues several of which have required them to send the units back for repair. Just curious if you have dug into it yet?
dkroth
Well-known member
dittle fart around
Well-known member
I drove my single cab with out a windshield for a week or so, it's not good man. Not good.
I have a FItech system for this truck. I was happy with the quality of the unit and its supporting hardware. Like everything I'm sure there maybe growing pains to work through. It seems on the forums, only the ones having issues get noticed and tend to squawk the loudest. If all else fails I have a new carb that came with the topend kit I can fall back on. Hopefully it doesn't come to that though.
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Worked on getting the tailgate stripped to bare last night. It has a few dents and dings, but man its solid for being 56 years old.
When your running low on media, but have plenty of paint stripper...blast the hard to get to areas and chemical strip the rest
One cool thing I did find hiding under the paint was an original Bethlehem Steel marking dated 2/18/60 from their Sparrows Point mill
When your running low on media, but have plenty of paint stripper...blast the hard to get to areas and chemical strip the rest
One cool thing I did find hiding under the paint was an original Bethlehem Steel marking dated 2/18/60 from their Sparrows Point mill
C_F
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Wow, that's pretty cool, I love finding stuff like that! I wonder how long they continued date stamping sheet metal that way.
Wanna Ride
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 28, 2010
- Messages
- 2,790
Continually making great process on what will end up being one sweet ride.
Carry on!
Carry on!
It'd be awesome to be able to leave that steel marking unpainted some how.
csp
Well-known member
My Carolina 30 ton press has that Bethlehem stamping visible under the faded paint.
Some progress on the F100 bed, Finished up fixing a few dents and dings on the tailgate and got it into to etch prime.
One of the last things that needed fabricated was the c notch hump inside the bed. The inner structure was made out of 11 gauge 1x1 square tube and the outer cover is 18 gauge.
I think this is the widest piece I've sheared with this 3-n-1 (49 inches) and it handled it with ease. This particular unit is rated to 16 gauge.
For me it makes it easier to get straight bends if I lay out the bend locations with masking tape.
Putting the magnetic brake to use. 18 gauge 49 inches wide
Fit and ready to weld in
Burned in, cleaned up and ready to blast the inside of the inside of the bed
Got a good start blasting the inside tonight till my old HF blaster developed a small air leak on the blaster
One draw back to living in small town USA is every place closes at 6 or 7 at night and the closest Lowes or Menards is 30 miles away so it'll have to wait till tomorrow to get some parts to fix it.
About half done before it wore through the hose barb.
One of the last things that needed fabricated was the c notch hump inside the bed. The inner structure was made out of 11 gauge 1x1 square tube and the outer cover is 18 gauge.
I think this is the widest piece I've sheared with this 3-n-1 (49 inches) and it handled it with ease. This particular unit is rated to 16 gauge.
For me it makes it easier to get straight bends if I lay out the bend locations with masking tape.
Putting the magnetic brake to use. 18 gauge 49 inches wide
Fit and ready to weld in
Burned in, cleaned up and ready to blast the inside of the inside of the bed
Got a good start blasting the inside tonight till my old HF blaster developed a small air leak on the blaster
One draw back to living in small town USA is every place closes at 6 or 7 at night and the closest Lowes or Menards is 30 miles away so it'll have to wait till tomorrow to get some parts to fix it.
About half done before it wore through the hose barb.
dkroth
Well-known member
Joe,
Where'd you get that helmet? Do you recommend it?
I was blasting some wheels last night wearing an old bath towel on my head.
bulletpruf
Well-known member
Joe,
Where'd you get that helmet? Do you recommend it?
I was blasting some wheels last night wearing an old bath towel on my head.
x2. Mine is falling apart; need to source a new one.
wasfast
Well-known member
What's the plan to fill in the gaps between the new piece and the existing bed ridges along the flat?
Nor'Easter
Well-known member
I have the exact same one, got it at tractor supply.
tlmartin84
Well-known member
HD,
Are you rolling that outside to blast it?
I've noticed you do not have a lift, just a small scissor type. How are you managing to lift and move your parts, Gantry? Or do you have to have help sometimes?
If you had the space would you opt for a two post? Or are you completely fine with your current setup?
Are you rolling that outside to blast it?
I've noticed you do not have a lift, just a small scissor type. How are you managing to lift and move your parts, Gantry? Or do you have to have help sometimes?
If you had the space would you opt for a two post? Or are you completely fine with your current setup?
C_F
ALLIANCE MEMBER
TimeWarpF100
Well-known member
Nice to see you closing in on getting it painted!
Joe,
Where'd you get that helmet? Do you recommend it?
I was blasting some wheels last night wearing an old bath towel on my head.
I've had it forever and was trying to think where I bought it..
till Nor'Easter mentioned TSC. Its nothing special, but it works. 
I'm doing a wood floor on each side of the hump.
Yes I blast everything outside. Before paint I generally use the gantry to take off/install parts. After paint I will round up some help to install cabs or beds by hand for the last time. 4 guys can easily lift any bed or empty cab. As far as a 2 post lift for me they take up too much valuable space for the use I would get out of it. I typically install motors/trannys before the body is installed in a bare frame. Having 360* access to the outside of the body that a scissor lift offers and its mobility is far more valuable to me.
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C_F
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Bump! 
C_F
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Completely understandable, I was just Jonesin'.
I'll be patient and resign to being a part of any updates you share with us on the new shop. The Galaxy wagon is gonna look right at home in that shop!
I'll be patient and resign to being a part of any updates you share with us on the new shop. The Galaxy wagon is gonna look right at home in that shop!
zmaxmotorsports
Well-known member
I'm working on getting one of those as a project also ,just have to chase the guy down and agree on a price.Been working on a remodeling project in the house so no new updates from the shop but I did go look at a 66 Econoline pickup this morning. Ended up being rougher in person than the pics lead on. Still good to see one. I had one about 20yrs ago wish I wouldn't have let it go. I'd like to find a decent 3 window, lower it and drop in a 302.
zmaxmotorsports
Well-known member
Been busy replacing the windows and residing my house recently so I haven't
spent much time in the shop. I did just get done pulling the transmission out of the E100. The clutch lever either broke or never had its retaining clip and allowed it to disengage the throwout bearing, which meant I lost the clutch.
I was able to locate a box of NOS spring clips
Since it was apart went ahead a bought a clutch kit and had the flywheel resurfaced
Here's a little trick for removing a pilot bushing. Find a steel rod that fits tight in the bushing, fill the inside of the bushing with a slice of bread then drive the rod in. The bread will compact and push the bushing out. Its a lot easier to clean up afterword compared to the old grease trick.
Its back together now and works as it should, much better feeling clutch pedal.
Lastly a few pics of the Econoline and the '50 Wrecker at a couple old gas stations along the original Lincoln Highway old US 30 here in central Iowa
Ive used bread plenty of times to hold back dripping water while sweating copper,never thought of using it to remove a pilot bushing thiugh.
I'll remember that for the next time I do one,beats cleaning up grease squirting every place!