Bracing between attic and scissor trusses??

[deepstuff]

Hi,

My garage is has half scissor and half attic trusses.

Anyone out there already brace scissor trusses to attic trusses? Any pictures or descriptions. Trying to do this with out loosing head space where it transitions.

I skipped a truss (normally spaced 2') but doubled up on the attic and scissor on each side of transition so that I have 3'-9" between them.

Thanks!

 

[Radix2]

Not sure your question.

Normally you will nail the two types directly together at the transition point. The roof will be sheathed straight through, the inside will transition right at the point the two trusses meet. You need to brace the bottom chords as the truss drawings indicate with lineals or a ceiling. I don't understand why you would leave a four foot gap in your structure...? No headroom will be lost at the transition...one direction will be scissor, the other the attic.

 

[Orionrising]

Stairs probably... Is that what the truss company told you to do?

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[deepstuff]

All trusses are in same direction. Garage is 44x32 with trusses spaced 2 feet except at transition where there is almost 4 feet between last attic and first scissor truss. At transtion both last attic truss and first scissor truss are doubled up so that there is 3'-9" between them. Now I have the exterior sheeting plus 2x6 fitted beween the top members only.

Truss company knew id be adding stairs from one side to almost center of building tinning in same direction of truss members.

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[deepstuff]

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[RocketScott]

The roof sheeting can't span that far. The ladder blocks you've got on the top cord need to be spaced every 2' and should have hangers at each end. You might be able to get away with pressure blocks but hangers would be the best option.

The scissors and attic trusses don't necessarily need to be connected at the bottom unless the truss company says so. As long as you have 4 trusses on either side of the opening braced together, which it looks like you do, they should be good.

If you were going to put a stairway right in the middle it would have been better to put an attic truss on the other side of that opening to support the top of the stairs. Maybe next time.

 

[deepstuff]

Thanks. I'll add more ladders and hangers? Should i use longer nails for hangers since trusses are doubled?

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[astroracer]

I would just add a false rafter in the middle of your blocking (braces), 24" on center, and just insulate and finish to match the loft ceiling.
Longer nails are not necessary.
Mark

P.S. Something to think about when you finish the loft area. Put floors inside the knee walls. Insulate the ceiling all the way out to the eves and add doors to the knee wall openings for a lot of "free" storage.
I did this when I built my garage. I also used some of the openings for built in book shelves and drawer units.
Mark

 

[deepstuff]

Next time? Lol? I can shadow the scissor truss onto first attic?

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[deepstuff]

Astro racer, do u have threads showing your roof insulation and bookshelf details?

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[deepstuff]

Should I bore venting holes through ladder bars in next to roof sheating?

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[73RR]

Should I bore venting holes through ladder bars in next to roof sheating?

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What are your plans for insulation? If you spray foam the roof, from plate to plate, then ventilation is not used in the attic space.
If you vent the soffit and use batt insulation then you will need 1½" air space under the sheathing and around the blocking. You will also need a ridge vent.

Please add additional blocking and a supporting rafter under the blocking in the wide space.

 

[astroracer]

Astro racer, do u have threads showing your roof insulation and bookshelf details?

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No, no threads. I can get some pics if you are interested. The garage was added on in '96, long before I was connected to the WWW...
Mark

 

[deepstuff]

Already have ridge vent installed so guess im comitted.
Pics would b great if not too much trouble.

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[73RR]

Already have ridge vent installed so guess im comitted.
Pics would b great if not too much trouble.

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You can spray foam over the ridge vent, it will fill it in nicely if you go that direction.

 

[Radix2]

are you going to bring down the top chords some with furring so you can get some more insulation in the areas where you are close to the roof ? If you leave an air gap with those 2x6's, then you are down to about R-13. while it is not the full roof, bringing the corners down another 2 in with some blocking would get you up to R 20, and then you could pull your ladder/purlin pieces down for ventilation (put a strip of furring down the center to support the sheathing.

I would frame the ceiling of the attic right across the opening so you can carry the insulation through.

 

[73RR]

Batt insulation rarely, if ever, provides the R value printed on the label...

http://www.chicagolandsprayfoam.com...ray-foam-insulation-vs-fiberglass-insulation/

 

[RocketScott]

Next time? Lol? I can shadow the scissor truss onto first attic?

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That comment was meant to impress on you the need to plan and do it right the first time.

What is going to hold up the top of the stairs?


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[deepstuff]

Plan to have one side of the stair top attached to the bottom chord of my doubled up attic truss. For other side i will frame down or hang cables with turn buckles from trusses.

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[deepstuff]

are you going to bring down the top chords some with furring so you can get some more insulation in the areas where you are close to the roof ? If you leave an air gap with those 2x6's, then you are down to about R-13. while it is not the full roof, bringing the corners down another 2 in with some blocking would get you up to R 20, and then you could pull your ladder/purlin pieces down for ventilation (put a strip of furring down the center to support the sheathing.

I would frame the ceiling of the attic right across the opening so you can carry the insulation through.

What do you mean by "the Corners?" The top chords of the bordering trusses?