OK guys give me some ideas on how i can hold my 1/2" galv. pipe up on my wall. going to start piping in the compressor tomorrow. going with 1/2" pipe all the way. just need some input on how i need to attache it to the wall. I know i need a space between the wall and pipe just to let air flow around the pipe. thanks
brackets to hold air lines
- Thread starter yard_dawg
- Start date
ryno
Well-known member
i would increase your supply line to atleast 3/4" if not 1". you can do 1/2" drops but you'll experience volume loss with air robbing tools.
Mr_fixit
Well-known member
Torque1st
MEMBER EMERITUS
Normal 2 hole pipe straps and P-clamps will work. The larger diameter of the fittings will hold the pipe a small but sufficient distance from the wall.
larry4406
Well-known member
My air piping was installed in the wall before insulation and drywall. I used a combination of drilled holes in the studs, and rolled plumbers strapping material - just like installing gas lines in new construction.
Itzkwik
Well-known member
Go to a plumbing supply store and ask for split ring clamps, stand-off plates and all-thread. 3/8" is a good size for air lines. The stand off plate mounts to the wall, cut the all-thread to desired length, and screw on the split ring clamp.
pinebarkauto
Well-known member
In my shop, I used electricle conduit (EMT) clamps that attached to the wall with 1 screw and placed the pipe approx. 1/4 - 1/2 " away from wall. Just go look around at your local Lowes or HD. Very inexpensive.
As for pipe size, I also feel you should start out with larger pipe. My compressor is 7.5 HP and can provide 25 CFM at 90 PSI. I started with 1" pipe with 3/4" branches and 1/2" drops. Maybe a little overkill, but I should never have to upsize if I get a larger compressor and the larger pipe functions as extra storage volumn. At each drop (about 10 throughout the shop), I installed a large (1/2") quick connect type female fitting and I have a couple of filter/regulator assemblys with the male fitting that I just move to the area I am working in. This saves on equipment costs.
In my shop, not all equipment uses same air volumn. Air wrenches, sand blast cabinet, and paint guns would have very different requirements. Also, I don't think you would want an oiler at the beginning of your system. Even if you don't currently use a paint gun or blast cabinet, why limit yourself in what you can add later? Once you get oil in the system it would be difficult to remove.
As for pipe size, I also feel you should start out with larger pipe. My compressor is 7.5 HP and can provide 25 CFM at 90 PSI. I started with 1" pipe with 3/4" branches and 1/2" drops. Maybe a little overkill, but I should never have to upsize if I get a larger compressor and the larger pipe functions as extra storage volumn. At each drop (about 10 throughout the shop), I installed a large (1/2") quick connect type female fitting and I have a couple of filter/regulator assemblys with the male fitting that I just move to the area I am working in. This saves on equipment costs.
In my shop, not all equipment uses same air volumn. Air wrenches, sand blast cabinet, and paint guns would have very different requirements. Also, I don't think you would want an oiler at the beginning of your system. Even if you don't currently use a paint gun or blast cabinet, why limit yourself in what you can add later? Once you get oil in the system it would be difficult to remove.
dragginbalz
Well-known member
I bought these
and bought about 3' of grey PVC 1/2"x1/2" bar stock. (both from McMaster)
I cut the bar stock and drilled a few holes to fit under the feet of the clamp.
A bad pic of the end result:
(dont mind the overspray)
It let me stand the pipe off of the wall enough to get a wrench in it to tighten and the unions had enough room to not hit the wall.
It may not be the most refined, but it worked for under $10 in materials (with plenty of clamps left, it was a box of 50)!
t
and bought about 3' of grey PVC 1/2"x1/2" bar stock. (both from McMaster)
I cut the bar stock and drilled a few holes to fit under the feet of the clamp.
A bad pic of the end result:
(dont mind the overspray)
It let me stand the pipe off of the wall enough to get a wrench in it to tighten and the unions had enough room to not hit the wall.
It may not be the most refined, but it worked for under $10 in materials (with plenty of clamps left, it was a box of 50)!
t
Torque1st
MEMBER EMERITUS
Do NOT use an oiler in your lines! Those central lubricators are not made to install in air distribution lines. They are made to lubricate the cylinders or valves in a machine where all the components are within a few feet of the unit. They will make a huge oily mess of your distribution lines and air hoses. If you want to lubricate air tools use an in-line oiler and a couple feet of hose to the tool.
Use filters only where filtered air is required. Run 3/4" distribution lines in a home shop with 1/2" drops. Check out the air info thread posted by Junkman.
Always surface mount your air distribution lines. Do not install them inside walls.
I bought these
and bought about 3' of grey PVC 1/2"x1/2" bar stock. (both from McMaster)
I cut the bar stock and drilled a few holes to fit under the feet of the clamp.
A bad pic of the end result:
(dont mind the overspray)
It let me stand the pipe off of the wall enough to get a wrench in it to tighten and the unions had enough room to not hit the wall.
It may not be the most refined, but it worked for under $10 in materials (with plenty of clamps left, it was a box of 50)!
t
Why the arm over? I do like the tee/plug. That will make extending the pipe much easier.
Torque1st
MEMBER EMERITUS
Arm over???
I assume you are asking why the drop comes off the top of the line. It is to avoid the water that is running along the bottom of the distribution pipe.
See this thread (and hundreds of others here) for more info:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28857
I assume you are asking why the drop comes off the top of the line. It is to avoid the water that is running along the bottom of the distribution pipe.
See this thread (and hundreds of others here) for more info:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28857
1. It allows 360* cooling air around the pipe. 2. If you ever have to take it apart or add to it it allows enough clearance to turn the pipe & fittings without having to take the whole thing off the wall. 3. If using copper it allows enough space to get a welding blanket or similar between the pipe & wall so when you solder it you don't catch the wall on fire.