Brake Bleeder Tank Question.

[gsingh]

I need a brake bleeder tank for work. Mostly everyone has the Snap On brake bleeder, but it costs like $230.

I found another bleeder that looks exactly the same, its from ATD model #5125.

Just wanted to know if anyone had any experience with these or something similar. I wanted to buy a pressure brake bleeder and not the vacuum one. ANy input would be appreciated.

Link for ATD - http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=ATD5125

 

[Fcvapor05]

Get a motive and don't look back.

http://motiveproducts.3dcartstores.com

I've used both motive and ATD bleeders and I like the motive better.

 

[vssjim]

I have my own made up tank with EIS and Wagner adapters and also a Motive Power Bleeder which is very nice and can be dressed out with many adapters at a real fair price. I don't see the need for a SO bleeder for that much as I could by two for that easy.

 

[firebox40dash5]

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005MVBFM4/?tag=atomicindus08-20

We use this one at the shop, I'm pretty happy with it. Only ***** is that the Toyota adapter (the o-ringed one with the collar) is a ***** to get to not leak, and it doesn't come with anything for old rectangular reservoirs if you work on older American iron. The shop next door has one of the ATD ones with a rectangle adapter, so we've borrowed it a few times (and loaned them ours) and we both like the MV better. I can do most anything solo with it, worst case I might have to start bleeding, pump the pedal a couple times, then do another round. Rarely need to do the GM auto-bleed either.

 

[mechanicalmoron]

Having a vaccum pump that I was suckered into buying specifically to bleed brakes, I feel very ripped off, and not very nice towards mityvac.

It's fine for some things, of course - but HORRIBLE for bleeding brakes. You're much better off just putting some fluid in the bottom of a container, and doing it "1 man" style, than using the vaccum pump. And, it won't take an hour a wheel, that way.

My point being, you're totally right, don't even think about getting a vacuum type brake bleeder.

 

[gsingh]

Thanks guys. Motive is cheaper than ATD, but gotta see if the dealership will let me use that.

 

[MikeF2316]

Thanks guys. Motive is cheaper than ATD, but gotta see if the dealership will let me use that.

Really? They need to approve your tools?

I'd think they'd just judge you and your tools together, in this case as to whether you get the air out of the brake lines...

I have a Motive, I use it dry. Fill up the master cylinder reservoir, pump up the tank, open the bleeder. You just have to be careful you don't let the reservoir get too low. I do it this way since I'm a non-Pro, otherwise there would be too much cleanup and wasted fluid.

 

[colin39]

I found " the wife" and if im at work "the workshop joey" both work well. Or a minivac if either of others are unavailible

you see my problem with these type of products is this, we are using a compreesed air system on a braking system that we are trying to remove air from, now does something not quite sound right here or is it just me. Lol

 

[Fcvapor05]

I found " the wife" and if im at work "the workshop joey" both work well. Or a minivac if either of others are unavailible

you see my problem with these type of products is this, we are using a compreesed air system on a braking system that we are trying to remove air from, now does something not quite sound right here or is it just me. Lol

Pressure bleeders work just fine if you know how to use them. I've bled literally hundreds of cars with my Motive and never had a single problem.

 

[gsingh]

They don't have to approve it, but I just wanted to cover my *** incase something happened in the future and they wanted to blame me or the tool.

 

[HICKS]

+1 on the Motive. I have the adapters for all my Junk, I used it twice this weekend. Great company to deal with too if you ever need replacement parts.

I also use it dry BTW...

 

[colin39]

Pressure bleeders work just fine if you know how to use them. I've bled literally hundreds of cars with my Motive and never had a single problem.

Hey I didnt say you would instantly get a problem how ever, think about what ya doing , you are forcing air into a bottle full of brake fluid that you are trying to remove air from. In nearly 30 years of doin this dont it sound daft to yourself? Its like the apprentice walking down the workshop shaking a bottle of bfluid and wondering why I tell him to bin it and get another pls. I can see sense in vac'ing it out. I dont know how you "motive" works, ive use a system that pressurises a diaphragm and this pushes fluid around a system, these I also see sense in . Hey its only an opinion and not layed down law.

 

[nesw20]

Having a vaccum pump that I was suckered into buying specifically to bleed brakes, I feel very ripped off, and not very nice towards mityvac.

It's fine for some things, of course - but HORRIBLE for bleeding brakes. You're much better off just putting some fluid in the bottom of a container, and doing it "1 man" style, than using the vaccum pump. And, it won't take an hour a wheel, that way.

My point being, you're totally right, don't even think about getting a vacuum type brake bleeder.

in a shop environment, yea, pressure style is quicker. but at home i feel much better using a vacuum style bleeder than a pressure style (i'll explain below).

Get a motive and don't look back.

http://motiveproducts.3dcartstores.com

I've used both motive and ATD bleeders and I like the motive better.

i've seen and heard good things about motive. never heard of ATD.

I found " the wife" and if im at work "the workshop joey" both work well. Or a minivac if either of others are unavailible

you see my problem with these type of products is this, we are using a compreesed air system on a braking system that we are trying to remove air from, now does something not quite sound right here or is it just me. Lol

for me, the problem isn't so much getting air into the fluid, it's what happens *IF* that nice big jug of pressurized brake fluid comes loose off the top of the reservoir. you've got brake fluid spraying all around your engine bay. i hear paint likes that.

typically when i bleed brakes i'll vacuum bleed until clear, then go around each wheel once with a helper, then let it gravity bleed the last little bit. i'm very picky about my brake feel through the pedal and can't stand ANY mush in it. no ABS + race pads means i need to feel everything i possibly can.

 

[Fcvapor05]

i've seen and heard good things about motive. never heard of ATD.

for me, the problem isn't so much getting air into the fluid, it's what happens *IF* that nice big jug of pressurized brake fluid comes loose off the top of the reservoir. you've got brake fluid spraying all around your engine bay. i hear paint likes that.

typically when i bleed brakes i'll vacuum bleed until clear, then go around each wheel once with a helper, then let it gravity bleed the last little bit. i'm very picky about my brake feel through the pedal and can't stand ANY mush in it. no ABS + race pads means i need to feel everything i possibly can.

I understand your reservation about using a pressure bleeder that *might* leak fluid into the engine bay.

The cars I work on now range for a couple brand new cars (me + wife, daily drivers) to a couple of race BMWs between 15 and 20 years old, all the way to a couple of older models that belong to me and friends of mine. (I'm that guy that has all the tools, so I help a lot of buddies with specialty tools that they don't own, such as brake bleeders ).

If I'm working on a newish car, I just pick the right adapter and use the pressure bleeder as intended. If I'm working on one of the race cars, same thing- since I don't really care all that much if I get a drop or two of brake fluid on the firewall. Most of it is covered with gold foil so it's impervious to brake fluid anyways. If I'm working on an older car where I don't trust the thread on the reservoir, I fill the reservoir on the car up to the top, then use the pressure bleeder dry. That way I get the full function of the pressure bleeder, but if the cap lets go I don't get extra fluid anywhere. The only down side to this method is that you have to make sure the reservoir stays above the minimum fluid level so you don't have to re-bleed the brakes. For a full flush this method is very time consuming but gives a good end result.

 

[Fcvapor05]

you see my problem with these type of products is this, we are using a compreesed air system on a braking system that we are trying to remove air from, now does something not quite sound right here or is it just me. Lol

The point of pressure bleeding is that you need to drive all of the dissolved gas out of the fluid, and it takes pressure to do that. That's why to do a proper bleed without a bleeding tool of some kind, you pump the pedal a lot- when you put the brake fluid under high pressure, you cause the dissolved gasses to form bubbles large enough to overcome the viscosity of the fluid and work their way out of the system. You can't duplicate the working pressure of the brake system with a vacuum bleeder. You can with a pressure bleeder- meaning a pressure bleeder or pumping the pedal with you foot is the only way to correctly bleed brakes. Anyone who drives a race car with minimal brake boosting can tell you that little differences like this matter. It might not make a difference on your wife's Camry, but on my road race car I need that last 5% of brake power and predictability.

Since I often bleed the brakes between heats and I change the fluid often, I don't want to spend 2 hours doing it manually. For me this means the pressure bleeder, all the time.

Your reservation about pressurizing the brake system with compressed air only makes sense if you think it's possible to introduce dissolved gas into the fluid by pressurizing it with air, which is incorrect.