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Brake bleeder/vacuum tool

WR250F

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Aug 28, 2011
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481
I just broke mine. Forgot it was on the floor after a brake rebuild and backed over it.

I really like the vacuum bleeder type, and I've had this one maybe 20 years or so. I looked and I don't see a brand name on it and have long since lost the instructions (if there were any) that might have came with it when new.

I've looked at the mighty vac, and that looks to be a PITA, and gets mixed reviews.

I see HF has one, but I use this fairly often, and am going to skip the HF version. Sears sells three different ones, with mostly good reviews, but I don't have a clue who the OEM is.

All I need is a pistol type with a vacuum barrel on it that you can attach a piece of hose to. I don't need dozens of adapters as I will probably use this for bleeding/changing brake fluids the same way I have since I can remember; pump up the vacuum, let off the screw till I see no more bubbles, close the bleed screw on the caliper, that's it.

Any suggestions as to a decent quality unit for under $100 ?
 
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Outlawmws

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I just broke mine. Forgot it was on the floor after a brake rebuild and backed over it.

I really like the vacuum bleeder type, and I've had this one maybe 20 years or so. I looked and I don't see a brand name on it and have long since lost the instructions (if there were any) that might have came with it when new.

I've looked at the mighty vac, and that looks to be a PITA, and gets mixed reviews.

I see HF has one, but I use this fairly often, and am going to skip the HF version. Sears sells three different ones, with mostly good reviews, but I don't have a clue who the OEM is.

All I need is a pistol type with a vacuum barrel on it that you can attach a piece of hose to. I don't need dozens of adapters as I will probably use this for bleeding/changing brake fluids the same way I have since I can remember; pump up the vacuum, let off the screw till I see no more bubbles, close the bleed screw on the caliper, that's it.

Any suggestions as to a decent quality unit for under $100 ?



:ninja:
 

blarf

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Nov 18, 2009
Messages
513
Depends on the car I guess. I have (somewhere.. it's been lent out to a friend of a friend of a friend of a... sigh) a Motive bleeder. If your car has a threaded cap on the master cylinder reservoir it's the bee's knees. Fill it with fluid, pump it up to pressurize it, and open the bleeder screws in order. If you're cautious you can just use it to pressurize the reservoir, just be careful you don't run the MC dry. I have the smaller one and paid around $50 for it (about what it would cost to make your own — Motive looks like they use Gilmour pumps/tanks that are pretty darn high quality). The biggest downside is that nobody around here carries them, so it's essentially mail-order only (especially frustrating if you want an adapter in a hurry).

I recently had to dig out the MityVac (as the Motive seems to have grown legs) to bleed the brakes on a Tercel. Toyota, in their infinite wisdom, doesn't use a threaded cap on the MC. While Motive makes an adapter that'll fit a Toyota MC, I dunno that I'd trust it to seal too well. The MityVac works but it's a pain in the *** IMO.

If you've already flushed all the old fluid out, option three is the cheap ******* one: get one of them oil pumps with a trigger on it and pump new fluid backwards into the system through the bleeder screw. I had my clutch bled in about two minutes this way even with BMW's stupidly placed bleeder screw.
 
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WR250F

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Aug 28, 2011
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481
Thanks for catching that Outlaw.

I need to clarify, I've looked at this MightyVac :

41kyWP3EyML._SS500_.jpg


The MV8500 looks almost exactly like the one I just broke, it appears to be made of all metal

View media item 14799
They offer two others, the MV8000

View media item 14797
and the MV8020

View media item 14798
The last two appear to be plastic ???

Maybe my old eyes can't properly distinguish metal from plastic from the pics :headscrat

All I need is the pump and maybe a new bleed bottle and piece of hose but I'd much prefer metal over plastic on the pump itself
 
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Outlawmws

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Thanks for catching that Outlaw.

I need to clarify, I've looked at this MightyVac :


View media item 14799

I have an earlier Mityvac similar to the one above, (never used yet...) its cast aluminum, or maybe pot metal. the Actron is stamped steel and machined aluminum:

41ZR4KBYaUL._SL500_AA300_.jpg


I would rate the build quality of the Actron way above the Mityvac.
 

mixxmstrmike

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San Jose, CA
I have the MV8000 and used it a few times. With four cars to maintain, I purchased the MV7430 and never looked back. It's been a workhorse in my maintenance regimen and I would buy it again.

If what you're looking for is a hand pump, bottle and hose, I would highly suggest looking at the HF US General version. It's pretty much an all-metal construction pump with a bottle and couple of hoses. I've looked at this model in-store and it's a hefty piece.

-Mike
 

shampoop

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Jul 12, 2009
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If you're accustomed to the shop air powered bleeder, you'll hate the hand pumps. I have a mityvac one that seems to be great quality, but just a time consuming, messy PITA to use.
 
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WR250F

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I have an earlier Mityvac similar to the one above, (never used yet...) its cast aluminum, or maybe pot metal. the Actron is stamped steel and machined aluminum:

41ZR4KBYaUL._SL500_AA300_.jpg


I would rate the build quality of the Actron way above the Mityvac.

I just read a few reviews on the Actron, and checked their website. Looks like they have gone to a brass 'tube' and from the reviews I've read it is necessary to use sealant on the pump and tubes to be able to pull a good vacuum (with each use).

I definitely like the looks of it, it looks to be made 110% better than the others, but I've not used a vac pump that required sealant with every use. I've always used a small spring/compression hose clamp over the bleeder screw and never needed anything elsewhere. I have bought hoses that were a bit small to help make a good seal, and they have worked pretty well.

Do you use a sealant with the Actron you have ?
 

Outlawmws

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I haven't needed to, and can't see the need on the hoses if a proper fit and good barbs are used, sounds like a belt and suspenders approach to me. I'm hoping by sealant on the "Pump" they mean the hose connection the pump...

Any piston air pump needs a little lube once in a while (think bicycle tire pump, miniaturized and reversed...), If only to reduce wear.

I took another look, and they are right, the tube is brass, (should have taken my glasses the first time,... looked like anodize!)
 
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WR250F

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Well, I'm going to jump on one of the Actrons. They look to be well made and the price is less than I expected given todays prices on other stuff I've had to replace over the last year or two.

Thanks for the info... I'll do my best not to smash this one ;)
 

Jawn

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Stuck in traffic, GA
I had one of the plastic Mityvacs with gauge, but misplaced it. I'll find it one of these days. I needed to bleed my truck's clutch, so I bought another MV8000 and it worked well for me. I don't see what's such a PITA about 'em.
 

jweller

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Feb 19, 2007
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I've got a MV8000 and still use a length of tube in a bottle to bleed brakes. It is a PITA to clean up, and that negates any time savings you get from using it. whatever you do, don't buy that one. I'll be following this thread as well, as I'd love to have a better solution.
 

metal1313

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clinton NJ
i have the mv8000 and it worked ok, i could never get it to seal and always had tiny little bubbles. but doing the 2 man method after wards showed no air so it worked ok.

i want to build a pressureized one, i had a link saved, but since i rarely work on brakes i dont need one
 

mtkst19

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Sep 20, 2009
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blitzburgh pa
i use blue point branded version of this--- it has a master cylinder feed and the siphon sucker. I would love to get a brannick threaded master cylinder pressure pot style. this has yet to let me down. someone else is obviously making these so i imagine you should eb able to get them 100 or less. I bought mine used for 80 at an auction.

http://www.matcotools.com/ProductImages/bbk70855.jpg

bbk70855.jpg



edit--

5 mins searching found it new for $100 "generic" branded

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/speedyvac-one-man-brake-bleeder-kit-70856-p-16349.aspx
 
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blarf

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Nov 18, 2009
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I had one of the plastic Mityvacs with gauge, but misplaced it. I'll find it one of these days. I needed to bleed my truck's clutch, so I bought another MV8000 and it worked well for me. I don't see what's such a PITA about 'em.

You've got to pump them by hand (typically), they come with a teeny little reservoir, and they have a tendency to **** air past the bleeder screws. No thanks.

On a clutch, using an oil can to push fluid up through the system is waaay quicker. With brakes, a device that attaches to the master cylinder reservoir is great because you can pump it up once (maybe twice) and have enough pressure to bleed all corners. Plus if you fill the bleeder with fluid, there's less mess since you're not aiming for the MC, and there's a much smaller risk of running the MC dry.

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Jawn

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Thanks for the info blarf. I got around the "sucking air past bleeder screws" by sticking teflon tape on the threads per suggestion from someone else here. The reservoir... yeah, it could be bigger. But I just dumped it when it got full and started pumping again. Plus the tool serves other purposes... (testing vac operated equipment on a car)
 
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srode

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Apr 28, 2011
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Ohio
That MV8000 looks like the same set Sears sells on the craftsman line. I've tried both pressure and vac bleeding and found pressure bleeding to be more reliable, just takes a bit more time to get it set up.
 

bowlofturtle

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Chicago

Units like this are very tempting. But might be overkill for me as a DIY guy. Most cases i can trouble someone at home to use a 2 man process. Or use my hand pump, i have a craftsman metal one, looks exactly like the actron unit. 2 man works the best for me.
 

blarf

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Nov 18, 2009
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Thanks for the info blarf. I got around the "sucking air past bleeder screws" by sticking teflon tape on the threads per suggestion from someone else here. The reservoir... yeah, it could be bigger. But I just dumped it when it got full and started pumping again. Plus the tool serves other purposes... (testing vac operated equipment on a car)

To me it's like the difference between a cheapie raised panel ratchet and a Dual 80. Both will generally get the job done, but the Dual 80 will make your life that much easier.

Teflon tape and a smaller reservoir just seem like a recipe for a bigger mess to me. The vac stuff is nice when you can't attach something to the reservoir easily (Toyota) or there isn't a dedicated reservoir (clutch). Beyond that, gimmie pressure every time.

There are a few things to watch out for with the pressure bleeder tho:

- Don't overpressurize the reservoir. I'm sure you could cause it to split at the seams, but I've never done it.

- Check the tubing. Some people have had problems with the tubing failing and spraying brake fluid everywhere (if you put fluid in the tank).

Units like this are very tempting. But might be overkill for me as a DIY guy. Most cases i can trouble someone at home to use a 2 man process. Or use my hand pump, i have a craftsman metal one, looks exactly like the actron unit. 2 man works the best for me.

Not quite sure how that's overkill. The Motive unit runs well under $100 ($40-$60) depending on which adapters you need. You can find the basic plastic MityVac for pretty cheap if you look hard enough. But at most places the differential isn't that large, and the all metal MityVacs are $$$.

If it works for your car and you're looking for an easy way to bleed brakes, pressure is the way to go IMO.
 

mllester

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I don't know if they are still available, but several years ago I bought a Vacula air venturi vacuum system - high quality construction and works great.
 
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