Brake Bleeder Wrenches

[oldschoolcraft]

Why do these tools exist if no one actually needs them or finds much benefit from them? Makes me wonder what other tools fall under this category of excess. And this is GJ so if the crowd is saying a tool is unnecessary, then that means a lot!

 

[tak1313]

I have to ask, in what instance would someone bleed the brakes with the wheels still on the vehicle? In my admittedly limited experience with brakes, I've only had to bleed them when replacing calipers, wheel cylinders, and in todays case a rusted through line that blew out about 8" from the caliper. I've always had the wheels off because they had to come off to accomplish the task at hand. For bleeding a 1/4 drive ratchet and socket with someone inside pumping the brakes and holding them has been my preferred method so far and I've never had clearance issues, yet.

Because brake fluid (at least the ubiquitous DOT 3) is hygroscopic, over time, the fluid gets saturated with moisture from the air, so most intervals say to completely bleed/replace/cycle out/flush the brake fluid every few years since moisture will reduce the boiling point, and effectiveness of the fluid. The increase in absorbed moisture will also increase the likelihood that brake lines/parts can rust from the inside out.

Don't know how many people ACTUALLY do it, though I've seen many posts on the various auto forums I participate in talk about it, and have done it with my wife's Prius and my Tacoma. Being able to do it without removing the wheels made it a lot easier.

As a general rule, Toyota recommends every 2 years/20,000 miles ( https://www.kingstoyota.com/toyota-brake-fluid-change-intervals-cincinnati-oh.htm ), but I generally go about 3 or 4 years and don't care about miles personally.

If you only do it when you replace the left rear wheel cylinder (for example), the fluid in the line to the two rights and left front will still be old(er), so at some point, you may want to do the rest (or do all of them at the same time since you're at it anyway).

Generally, the fluid will turn dark, but these days there are also electronic tools that can test it (google "brake fluid tester").

 

[Maui]

I have a 5/16" Taiwan made 6 point box end wrench I've used for over 30 years for bleeding brakes. It works beautifully.

 

[DGersic]

I've never done it before just watched a few videos but it looks like the brake fluid comes out of a port on the same fitting/valve that you are turning. So if you use a socket, I would think that means you can't have the tube connected as you're turning the socket, and it's going to spill brake fluid everywhere once you remove the socket, until you connect the tube.

It seems like it would be possible to put a closed end box wrench on the fitting, connect the tube with the box end attached, and then turn the box end wrench with the tube already connected.

I've never done it, and it's possible some cars are different than others, just my concerns with using a socket from what I saw on videos.

I break the bleeder loose with a socket (6 point). There may be a drop of fluid, but none usually escapes. Then put a box end on it, with the tubing to the jar. Use the box end to open and close the valve.

 

[dogdog]

I break the bleeder loose with a socket (6 point). There may be a drop of fluid, but none usually escapes. Then put a box end on it, with the tubing to the jar. Use the box end to open and close the valve.

Same… not too sure why my bleeders are extra tighten by holy monkeys. I have to use socket then use the box end as usual.

 

[BombShelter]

I should have more clear, I use a socket just to get the fitting loose and it's a six sided socket. The fittings easily get rounded with the wrong wrench and you'll be pulling your hair out. You can replacement fittings pretty easily but I'm always working late at night and need the vehicle in the morning.

Yes, the fluid comes through the center so you need a wrench to turn the flow on/off.

 

[VolvoRyan]

Bleeder ******* are one of those things like flare nuts. Use good tools on them.

If you have shallow broached deep sockets (Snap-On, SK, etc), they won't fully seat on the bleeder nut. I use a 6-pt wrench.

-Ryan

 

[dchawk81]

In 32 years, I do not remember ever needing a bleeder wrench other than a standard wrench

I was gonna say I don't remember my dad ever having any special wrenches when he made me his pedal slave.

 

[rlitman]

...If you have shallow broached deep sockets (Snap-On, SK, etc), they won't fully seat on the bleeder nut. I use a 6-pt wrench...

I can't say I've had an issue with my shallow broached deep Snap On sockets. The hex may be shallow, but it goes round right after that, and the round hole clears the ****** just fine (just like it clears a bolt's threads). That's the whole point of a deep socket.

 

[VolvoRyan]

I can't say I've had an issue with my shallow broached deep Snap On sockets. The hex may be shallow, but it goes round right after that, and the round hole clears the ****** just fine (just like it clears a bolt's threads). That's the whole point of a deep socket.

The round hole in those sockets is more designed for the size bolt protruding from a nut.

Depends on the bleeder design. If the hex is small relative to the diameter of the ******, it's not going to grab the full length of the hex. Small ******, big hex, you're golden.

-Ryan

 

[TxSteve]

I've always just used the box end of a combination wrench. I place it on the bleeder, use a hammer to tap the wrench to get the valve loose - the impacts seem to help it break loose without rounding the sides.

I then put the hose on it and bleed. Having the box end means I don't have to chase the tool around when it falls off. The hose prevents it from going anywhere.

If I do round it - out comes the vice grip locking pliers and a new valve.

 

[dchawk81]

The round hole in those sockets is more designed for the size bolt protruding from a nut.

Depends on the bleeder design. If the hex is small relative to the diameter of the ******, it's not going to grab the full length of the hex. Small ******, big hex, you're golden.

-Ryan

Love small ******* for my big hex.

 

[Jweebothee]

Maybe I'm doing it wrong but I use a socket on top,

Im
A Subaru dealer tech, and I use a socket on the rear calipers of vehicles with electric parking brakes, they are so damn tight and I can’t get decent leverage with the wrench to break them free, once broken free woth the socket attach my vacuum bleeder and use the wrench to loosen and tighten

 

[jsaw]

I was gonna say I don't remember my dad ever having any special wrenches when he made me his pedal slave.

I Will add, that I do use 6 point wrenches or sockets

 

[Dakotadadv8]

They probably help to make the job easier. I use a socket/combination wrench.

 

[tak1313]

I've used a knocker with the appropriate size shallow broach impact socket to get seized ******* loose with no problem as well. You have to use a shallow broach when using a knocker so it actually impacts the ****** the edge/corner of the hex, otherwise it will just be sliding along the side of the hex - though if it's not too seized, the vibration alone may be enough to jar it loose.

 

[AJHD]

I've used a knocker with the appropriate size shallow broach impact socket to get seized ******* loose with no problem as well. You have to use a shallow broach when using a knocker so it actually impacts the ****** the edge/corner of the hex, otherwise it will just be sliding along the side of the hex - though if it's not too seized, the vibration alone may be enough to jar it loose.

What the hell is a knocker? I've snapped bleeder screws by hand without much force at all, not sure I'd opt for an impact device.

 

[tak1313]

What the hell is a knocker? I've snapped bleeder screws by hand without much force at all, not sure I'd opt for an impact device.

It's called a "screw knocker," sometimes called an "old man" (I don't know why). It's been used for decades in the aviation industry to "knock" rusted/seized fasteners. Most of them have a square drive so a square drive to hex adapter is used to hold whatever type of fastener bit you want.

Luckily, because of the square drive, you can also use sockets, with the caveat about shallow broaches so it actually hits the bolt head/nut. I usually use a short barrel air hammer or feather the trigger as it usually doesn't take much pounding. All the ones I've seen are standard .401 shanks.

As you are knocking the fastener, you turn the handle to put force in the reversing direction. The knocking sends the vibration through the fastener to the threads and minutely vibrates the thread loose. Most times they start moving within a few seconds of knocking. Some include the wrench as in the image below, and some don't even come with a wrench so you would use yours.

It used to be hard to find except from places that sold aviation tools, but lately there's been a lot of other companies jumping in the bandwagon.

Google "screw knocker."

 

[mikedodge]

Nothing special needed for bleeders. I've never had a problem with offset if anything in some cases it's the problem of not having room around the bleeder itself to get a wrench on it properly if the head of the wrench is too big. Old Fords are the worst for that.

For bleeding brakes with wheels on most common if you're bleeding because you've replaced a line or hose or re-bleeding something. No reason to take the wheel off if you can easily get behind it.

 

[AJHD]

It's called a "screw knocker," sometimes called an "old man" (I don't know why). It's been used for decades in the aviation industry to "knock" rusted/seized fasteners. Most of them have a square drive so a square drive to hex adapter is used to hold whatever type of fastener bit you want.

It used to be hard to find except from places that sold aviation tools, but lately there's been a lot of other companies jumping in the bandwagon.

Google "screw knocker."

Hmmm... Maybe it's not used on helicopters. I've not come across one at work to the best of my knowledge.

 

[tak1313]

Knockers also come in handy on stuff like stuck bolts that hold rotors onto hubs, and other general fastening where there is a possibility of stripping the head.

 

[tak1313]

Hmmm... Maybe it's not used on helicopters. I've not come across one at work to the best of my knowledge.

Can't say about helicopters. I first came across them on an aviation forum that dealt with aircraft. At the time, it was a bear trying to find it. Finally found it on a site that specialized in aviation tools, I recall I could only find an Apex branded one.

These days it's common enough that you can get them on Amazon

 

[BombShelter]

Those knockers are nice (and I'm not at the beach!) My college material's professor had a few hour discussion about knocking (vibrating) metal threads when they get stuck. He claimed the molecules fuse together over time and knocking will help get the molecule ions back in the right orbit and the threads unstuck.

I had no idea about the above tools, I've aways used a small hammer and pounded on the bolt heads.

 

[dimichele]

I have harbor freight bleeder wrenches. You don't really need them unless it's a rare instance where your leaving the tires on, and you still may not need them. I usually use a socket to break them loose first (heat them if really stuck). They are easy to round off. Then I use a regular wrench.

 

[AJHD]

Can't say about helicopters. I first came across them on an aviation forum that dealt with aircraft. At the time, it was a bear trying to find it. Finally found it on a site that specialized in aviation tools, I recall I could only find an Apex branded one.

These days it's common enough that you can get them on Amazon

I've seen the "shake n' break" version before. I had no idea it had a more "technical" name or had different versions.

I looked at a few of the vendors we deal with and found some;

https://www.yardstore.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=knocker

Brown Aviation & Aircraft Tools

 

[tak1313]

I've seen the "shake n' break" version before. I had no idea it had a more "technical" name or had different versions.

I looked at a few of the vendors we deal with and found some;

https://www.yardstore.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=knocker

Brown Aviation & Aircraft Tools

Yeah, I have a long version and short. Be aware though, that many times the ones that come with a bit holder will come with 5/16" holders instead of the ubiquitous 1/4" because 5/16" bits are able to withstand impacting better, but it's easy enough to get impact rated square to 1/4" holders.

 

[Schurkey]

Hearing you guys talk about using wrenches on bleeder screws, and then whacking the wrench with a hammer, makes me cringe.

My method has been to use a 6-point socket that fits the bleeder screw, and the longest-handle ratchet I can fit in the space available. I want the long handle not for leverage or torque, but for control as I gradually add force to rotate the bleeder. Support the ratchet head to prevent side-force on the bleeder. Side-force is often responsible for breaking the bleeders, and that's why whacking a wrench with a hammer/mallet scares me.

 

[jsaw]

Hearing you guys talk about using wrenches on bleeder screws, and then whacking the wrench with a hammer, makes me cringe.

My method has been to use a 6-point socket that fits the bleeder screw, and the longest-handle ratchet I can fit in the space available. I want the long handle not for leverage or torque, but for control as I gradually add force to rotate the bleeder. Support the ratchet head to prevent side-force on the bleeder. Side-force is often responsible for breaking the bleeders, and that's why whacking a wrench with a hammer/mallet scares me.

If I am concerned with breaking a fitting, I will tap on the 6 point wrench very lightly at first. Over time you develop a feel for how hard You can hit the wrench without breaking things

 

[richfinn]

I just use a regular combination spanner (6 point), more important IMHO is the type of tube you use to attach to the bleed screw, silicone tube is very flexible and creates a nice leak free set up to prevent messing up paint work on expensive wheels or calipers.

A plastic syringe is useful for adjusting the fluid reservoir level before and after fitting pads (again to prevent a mess), bulk removal of old fluid from the tank and back bleeding clutch slave cylinders etc.

I like to bleed brakes with the wheels off so I can see any air in the bleed tube better

If you car has ABS brakes you might need to use a diagnostic scan tool to actuate the valves in the ABS modulator to perform a brake flush successfully!!!

 

[oldschoolcraft]

Side-force is often responsible for breaking the bleeders, and that's why whacking a wrench with a hammer/mallet scares me.

Yikes! As a home gamer who drives to friends driveways to do car repair, something like this terrifies me because now I have to figure out how to fix the broken bleeder or have the car towed somewhere and pay a lot more than if I just paid them to work on the brakes to begin with.

I'm still learning about brakes, been watching videos and plan to do my own pads + fluid flush soon. I wonder if having extra bleeder hardware on hand makes sense to deal with a catastrophe like this. I'm not sure if I'd also need to replace the caliper or whatever the bleeder interfaces into. The rotor? Because maybe the bleeder stayed intact but cracked whatever housing it's screwed into?

It's still cheaper for me to have spare emergency parts on hand like this, than to pay someone to fix the car.

 

[oldschoolcraft]

If you car has ABS brakes you might need to use a diagnostic scan tool to actuate the valves in the ABS modulator to perform a brake flush successfully!!!

Fortunately for ease of repairs, and possibly unfortunately for my safety with driving, my car does not have ABS!

 

[oldschoolcraft]

I just use a regular combination spanner (6 point)

So... I have seen people say to just use a 6 point combination wrench. You dont need a special brake bleeder wrench. Except, I dont have any 6 point combination wrenches. I'm not sure how common that is to own. Most people have 12 point combination wrenches.

And it seems duplicative of 12-point combination wrenches because now you have two identical open-end wrenches. Which I guess you might need two of the same for some jobs, but most people also have ratcheting combination wrenches with more open-end wrenches of the same size.

So I started thinking, if I'm going to buy 6-point combination wrenches to get that 6-point box end, maybe I should get double box end 6-point wrenches. But I dont recall seeing any of the tool brands I follow making them. And then I realized, that's exactly what brake bleeder wrenches are

Not only are they double box end 6 point, but they are angled specifically for the purpose of bleeding brakes.

 

[richfinn]

So... I have seen people say to just use a 6 point combination wrench. You dont need a special brake bleeder wrench. Except, I dont have any 6 point combination wrenches. I'm not sure how common that is to own. Most people have 12 point combination wrenches.

And it seems duplicative of 12-point combination wrenches because now you have two identical open-end wrenches. Which I guess you might need two of the same for some jobs, but most people also have ratcheting combination wrenches with more open-end wrenches of the same size.

So I started thinking, if I'm going to buy 6-point combination wrenches to get that 6-point box end, maybe I should get double box end 6-point wrenches. But I dont recall seeing any of the tool brands I follow making them. And then I realized, that's exactly what brake bleeder wrenches are

Not only are they double box end 6 point, but they are angled specifically for the purpose of bleeding brakes.

I have two Snap On six point combo wrenches 10mm and 11mm I use them for brake bleed screws and crusty battery terminals, that's all I really need, I never buy full sets of anything (beyond the basics) it's a waste of my money and resources.

Only buy exactly what you need on an as needed basis as an Auto Mechanic, otherwise you will turn into one of those ridiculous "prepper" guys (preparing for a "zombie apocalypse" that's never gonna happen).

Buy the silicone tube/syringe though, that will make your life easier

 

[Ricky Joe]

People who disparage brake bleed wrenches probably have not done many brake jobs. There is a reason that there are so many variations on configurations of bleeder wrenches. I probably have a good fifteen different configurations. Some are redundant, but some are necessary, or at least make the job easier.

 

[Schurkey]

Yikes! As a home gamer who drives to friends driveways to do car repair, something like this terrifies me because now I have to figure out how to fix the broken bleeder or have the car towed somewhere and pay a lot more than if I just paid them to work on the brakes to begin with.

No need to be "terrified". The most-common broken bleeder screws are on drum brake wheel cylinders not disc brake calipers. And of those, old Fords seem to have the smallest, weakest bleeder screws.

WHEN you break one--and you will, someday, if you work on enough brake systems--you merely replace the wheel cylinder or caliper. It might be possible to extract the broken bleeder screw and then replace it with a new one...but it's hardly worth the trouble.

I'm still learning about brakes, been watching videos and plan to do my own pads + fluid flush soon.

Excellent.

I wonder if having extra bleeder hardware on hand makes sense to deal with a catastrophe like this.

No.

I'm not sure if I'd also need to replace the caliper or whatever the bleeder interfaces into. The rotor? Because maybe the bleeder stayed intact but cracked whatever housing it's screwed into?

Bleeder screws break. The female threads and the seat are rarely damaged. But the wheel cylinder/caliper may be damaged from the old, contaminated fluid.

It's still cheaper for me to have spare emergency parts on hand like this, than to pay someone to fix the car.

IF you break something, go to any parts store in America and get a "rebuilt" or new wheel cylinder/caliper. Don't keep this sort of "emergency part" in stock.

 

[Hakeem]

People who disparage brake bleed wrenches probably have not done many brake jobs. There is a reason that there are so many variations on configurations of bleeder wrenches. I probably have a good fifteen different configurations. Some are redundant, but some are necessary, or at least make the job easier.

I am not disparaging them I just never understood the advantage over a regular wrench. Reading the thread it seems I’m not alone.

Could you give an example of a use case where bleeder wrenches are necessary or at least a big time saver?

 

[Wolley]

Trucks with drum brakes you definitely need one. The bleeder is in narrow space between the backing plate and the leaf springs. A regular box end with an angle you can't get on the bleeder square. An open end would work if the stuff is new but any rust and age good luck.

 

[DGersic]

Yikes! As a home gamer who drives to friends driveways to do car repair, something like this terrifies me because now I have to figure out how to fix the broken bleeder or have the car towed somewhere and pay a lot more than if I just paid them to work on the brakes to begin with.

I'm still learning about brakes, been watching videos and plan to do my own pads + fluid flush soon. I wonder if having extra bleeder hardware on hand makes sense to deal with a catastrophe like this. I'm not sure if I'd also need to replace the caliper or whatever the bleeder interfaces into. The rotor? Because maybe the bleeder stayed intact but cracked whatever housing it's screwed into?

It's still cheaper for me to have spare emergency parts on hand like this, than to pay someone to fix the car.

If you break or round off the bleeder, then you’ll also be replacing the caliper (disks) or slave cylinder (drums) that the bleeder is screwed in to.

If you’re in the rust belt, or exceptionally lucky, you’ll also then need to replace the hoses and hard lines, as you round off the flare nuts as well.

The rotor should survive this, though if you’re doing pads it is likely time to replace the rotors as well.

Maybe get a more experienced friend to ride shotgun on your first brake job. You seem nervous about it. If nothing else, having secondary transportation to make parts runs is helpful. I live a couple of blocks from a NAPA, so even if all of the cars here were undrivable, I can walk there and back in a few minutes.

 

[Kscardsfan]

This is one of those tools I seem to find good deals on at estate and yard sales and auctions for cheap because not a lot of people outside of gear heads know what they are or how valuable they are when you are working on brakes.

 

[mikedodge]

People who disparage brake bleed wrenches probably have not done many brake jobs. There is a reason that there are so many variations on configurations of bleeder wrenches. I probably have a good fifteen different configurations. Some are redundant, but some are necessary, or at least make the job easier.

Probably because most people make what they have work and there aren't a lot of vehicles that need something special to get to the bleeder. It might make the job easier but most people don't need to mess with bleeders that often. Rack it up to the same situation as most specialty tools.