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Brake Bleeding Tools??

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gdocktor3

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I'd buy it if I needed one. Looks well made. I've bought a lot of Motion Pro m/c, dirtbike, atv parts in my day and they've all served me well, so why wouldn't their tools? I like the fact that its iodized aluminum and not plastic. Keep in mind, that is for motorcycles, not cars/trucks, so it may be a bit small and difficult to use if space is tight around the bleeder.
 
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Showkey

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What's wrong with a hose over the existing bleed ****** ???

Replace the existing ****** with speed bleeders ? Available in all sizes....

0000-Goodridge-Speed-Bleeders-MCSS.jpg


OR

Using vacuum to **** through the existing ******......
Using pressure to push it through from the top down
Using pressure to push it through from the bottom up
Using the old brake pedal pump and hold with an assistant at the caliper with a hose attached to the existing ******
 

JohnnyK8

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Illinois
What's wrong with a hose over the existing bleed ****** ???

Replace the existing ****** with speed bleeders ? Available in all sizes....

0000-Goodridge-Speed-Bleeders-MCSS.jpg


OR

Using vacuum to **** through the existing ******......
Using pressure to push it through from the top down
Using pressure to push it through from the bottom up
Using the old brake pedal pump and hold with an assistant at the caliper with a hose attached to the existing ******



Just got some of these for my bronco. Man was that slick! I'm a believer in the speed bleeders.


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spectre6000

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I go through a new-to-me-but-older-than-me car every six months or so. Pick it up (after selling the previous at a grand or so more than I had in it), fix it up, DD it a bit, get bored, and move it along. Pretty much every car gets a complete brake overhaul, so I've done my share of brake bleeding. I've tried all manner of gizmos and setups.

That device might be cool, but looks more like something that would take up space in a drawer for lack of need or lack of working quite like intended. It seems pretty rare that I end up finding the same size bleeders on each corner (remember, old cars with lots of history), and having to buy a $30 tool for all the sizes I encounter is not worth the trouble that device is not saving me.

I like the Motive Power Bleeder when I have the proper adapter (it seriously saves a lot of time and mess). Whether I have it or don't, I just stick a piece of clear tubing on the bleeder and loop it up to create a lock. The fluid flows up to the top of the loop, and that's all that's necessary to keep air out. While it's doing that, it also allows me to see bubbles, see the state of the fluid (for flushes), and keeps brake fluid contained. I bought a whole bunch of tubing a while back, and reuse it while I can or cut off a new bit when necessary. I can flush/bleed a car solo as long as I can figure out a way to reach the pedal and figure out how to see whatever corner I'm working on. If you're bleeding brakes, you probably already have a set of box wrenches, so the total investment is all of maybe a dollar plus whatever fluid...
 

bonneyman

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I bought a one-man brake bleeder kit and it worked fine, but have since found a mechanic who will do brake service for reasonable.

But I must admit that Motion Pro is a nice looking tool. :thumbup:
 

bmwpowere36m3

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I prefer using a regular combo wrench and catch can w/hose. Add a power-bleeder when working 1-man.

I don't care for vacuum bleeders.
 
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littletoes

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Guy,

I've never heard of the speed bleeders, how do they work, that is better than factory bleeders???

They have a check valve built in or something??
 

WWheeler

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I'm not sure what purpose that tool would serve when you can just as well attach a hose right to the bleeder using a standard wrench. What am I missing?

I always use a homemade one-person brake bleeder which consists of a ~2' piece of silicone aquarium air line to go from the bleeder to the bottom of whatever small plastic bottle I happen to have handy with the bottom filled with brake fluid.

Attach closed end wrench & hose to bleeder > crack open the bleeder > press the pedal 5 or so times to the floor > observe no air bubbles in the line (if there are top off master and press the pedal 5 or so more times) > close the bleeder > top off the master with new fluid. Done.
 

ChrisLS8

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Jan 16, 2015
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1,964
Never seen those wrench bleeders, those are slick. I just do the old fashioned way if I don't have air available but if I do then I use the Pittsburgh pneumatic bleeder 92924
 

^&right

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Indiana
If you have access to an air compressor this will do the job in 60 seconds on a bike.
Not much longer for a car.
image_13696.jpg
 

6PTsocket

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There are several approaches. You can use pedal pressure or air pressure on the master cylinder to push fluid until all the bubbles are out or you can create a vacuum at the wheel cylinder and pull fluid through until the bubbles are gone. That HF system pictured is of the vacuum type even though it requires a compressor. It uses compressed air to create the vacuum. The advantage of a pressure bleeder is there is little chance of air backing up into the system. Vacuum systems sometimes pull air from around the loosened bleed screw or loose hose fitting and the bubbles never stop. Speed bleeders must be left in the system and are most useful for one man pedal bleeding. With two people, the hose into a bottle of fluid protects on sucking air back and it is cheap. I went with the Motive pressure bleeder. It is expensive and requires an adapter to fit your master cylinder so if your cars are not similar there is a good chance you will need more than one adapter. Also the adapters come in plastic and aluminum. Based on reviews and boards like this one, I sprung for the aluminum.

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robalmal

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Triabunna Tasmania Australia
I'm not sure what purpose that tool would serve when you can just as well attach a hose right to the bleeder using a standard wrench. What am I missing?

I always use a homemade one-person brake bleeder which consists of a ~2' piece of silicone aquarium air line to go from the bleeder to the bottom of whatever small plastic bottle I happen to have handy with the bottom filled with brake fluid.

Attach closed end wrench & hose to bleeder > crack open the bleeder > press the pedal 5 or so times to the floor > observe no air bubbles in the line (if there are top off master and press the pedal 5 or so more times) > close the bleeder > top off the master with new fluid. Done.

I have been bleeding brakes this way for many years. Never needed to buy special bleeders. The only difference from above is, I only push the pedal halfway down and I pump till clean new fluid comes out. Just keep the reservoir topped up .
Some times I think you guys just have to buy tools for the fun of buying tools.:)
 

WWheeler

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I have been bleeding brakes this way for many years. Never needed to buy special bleeders. The only difference from above is, I only push the pedal halfway down and I pump till clean new fluid comes out. Just keep the reservoir topped up .
Some times I think you guys just have to buy tools for the fun of buying tools.:)

Yeah I know. No special tools needed other than a short piece of aquarium air hose, a plastic bottle, and a box-end wrench that fits the bleeder. Don't need a check valve as the hose down in the bottle of fluid prevents any air from seeping back. I've never once had a helper for brakes and I don't believe I've ever spent more than 5 minutes per wheel bleeding (usually less than half that) and that's whether I'm just getting all the air bubbles or flushing all the old fluid out (almost always the latter), and it works every time.
 

6PTsocket

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I have been bleeding brakes this way for many years. Never needed to buy special bleeders. The only difference from above is, I only push the pedal halfway down and I pump till clean new fluid comes out. Just keep the reservoir topped up .
Some times I think you guys just have to buy tools for the fun of buying tools.:)
I guess you got the air out but if there is still air in the line and you go around to your bottle there is nothing happening. All the pedal pressure you built up is dissipated. I had a loose thread on a bleed valve and if you watched it while somebody pumped you could never get rid of the bubbles. I like to be at the caliper while the system is under pressure. With reserve fluid the master cylinder won't run dry and I pump it up once and bleed the whole system. Best of all, i don't need any help

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6PTsocket

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I used a pesticide pressure spray bottle i had lying around, a Schrader valve and a few brass fittings. Works a charm but I still prefer my Speed Bleeders.
I did some research and found the pesticide sprayer that the Motive is based on. The place where they mounted the gauge is where the pressure relief valve goes on in the pesticide sprayer. That is why the Motive does not have one, not because Motive wanted to remove a possible source of leaks, as Motive tried to tell me. For what they charge they could have thrown in the quick disconnects to change master cylinder caps. They are screwed together with pipe,fittings and the quick disconnects are extra. I am still glad I bought it. The aluminum caps are expensive and if you have to buy a pesticide sprayer and a gauge, and hose and clamps you don't save that much and convenience is worth something.

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Gotcha640

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Houston TX
The OP isn't a bleeder, it's a wrench with a fitting for a hose on it.

And, it seems like it would be full of fluid after you bleed the brakes.

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bmwpowere36m3

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I made a power-bleeder out of a pesticide sprayer years ago... still works. That said, having gotten a Motive bleeder was worth the money. I added my own QDs to switch fittings (1/4 M-style air fittings).
 
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littletoes

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I did some research and found the pesticide sprayer that the Motive is based on. The place where they mounted the gauge is where the pressure relief valve goes on in the pesticide sprayer. That is why the Motive does not have one, not because Motive wanted to remove a possible source of leaks, as Motive tried to tell me. For what they charge they could have thrown in the quick disconnects to change master cylinder caps. They are screwed together with pipe,fittings and the quick disconnects are extra. I am still glad I bought it. The aluminum caps are expensive and if you have to buy a pesticide sprayer and a gauge, and hose and clamps you don't save that much and convenience is worth something.

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Which sprayer??? I'm a steamfitter/pipefitter, and have fittings and gauges laying around. I just hate to spend the $60 for the Motive.

WWheeler---You can't "Pump 5 Times" with some GM stuff, if it has anti-lock brakes. They have a "Piston" that blocks fluid from leaving the master cylinder if the pedal is pumped too quickly.

My Wife's Pontiac Montana is one of those.
 

IMStuner

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I use this on my car and motorcycle all the time.3e929367e89adfe8ae4da5761b8fbf35.jpg


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6PTsocket

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You got me with "push it through from the bottom up" How does that work? I am familiar with the other methods. I am a Motive, "push it through from the top down" guy, myself. Are you sure you don't mean vacuum it from the bottom up?

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6PTsocket

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Which sprayer??? I'm a steamfitter/pipefitter, and have fittings and gauges laying around. I just hate to spend the $60 for the Motive.

WWheeler---You can't "Pump 5 Times" with some GM stuff, if it has anti-lock brakes. They have a "Piston" that blocks fluid from leaving the master cylinder if the pedal is pumped too quickly.

My Wife's Pontiac Montana is one of those.
It is based on the Gilmour GIL 1000P. That is not a cheap sprayer and you will not save anything. Look at where the relief valve goes. That is where motive mounted the pressure gauge. The handle is a little different. If you look at the repair kit for the 1000P you will see that it looks an awful lot like the guts of the Motive.

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littletoes

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It is based on the Gilmour GIL 1000P. That is not a cheap sprayer and you will not save anything. Look at where the relief valve goes. That is where motive mounted the pressure gauge. The handle is a little different. If you look at the repair kit for the 1000P you will see that it looks an awful lot like the guts of the Motive.

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Wow...spot on. That is a spendy unit, and they come green now! Might just have to consider the Motiv version...and watch that price go up too!
 

WWheeler

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[...]
WWheeler---You can't "Pump 5 Times" with some GM stuff, if it has anti-lock brakes. They have a "Piston" that blocks fluid from leaving the master cylinder if the pedal is pumped too quickly.

My Wife's Pontiac Montana is one of those.

Yeah I guess I haven't ran into one of those yet, but I don't ever pump the pedal quickly in any case. When I pump the pedal to the floor while bleeding I take at least 3-4 seconds to get it there, let off, and repeat. I have the bleeder open already so I'm trying to push the fluid out the bleeder, not pumping them up trying to build pressure.

IIRC some antilock brakes have an ABS module that either needs bled separately or that prevents normal bleeding also unless you pull the fuse to it or some such. I'm sure there's lots like that I haven't ran into yet.

All that said. I've done brakes on at least a dozen different vehicles at work and at home in just the past year alone and at least that many every year before that for decades now and my method has always worked for me so far. To bleed or flush them I've never needed anything yet other than some brake fluid, a wrench to fit the bleeder valve, and short piece of aquarium air hose, and a plastic bottle. Don't need a helper. Don't need no fancy vacuum pump or check valve bleeder or whatnot.

You got me with "push it through from the bottom up" How does that work? I am familiar with the other methods. I am a Motive, "push it through from the top down" guy, myself. Are you sure you don't mean vacuum it from the bottom up?

I think he was referring to a reverse bleeding system. I've not used anything like it myself, but I've seen them marketed pretty hard. Pheonix is the one name that comes to mind:

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=phoenix+systems+reverse+bleed+brake

https://smile.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_s...s&field-keywords=pheonix+system+reverse+brake
 
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6PTsocket

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Well I just learned something. Reverse pressure bleeding is new to me but it makes perfect sense. I might have gone that way if I had known about it. It has to be cheaper than the Motive, that I already have two of the expensive aluminum adapters for. I am not unhappy with the Motive but simple is good. I just watched the video from your link and I have seen that guy's show on the Velocity Channel. He is part mechanic and part pitch man. I must have missed that episode. Thanks for the info.

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IMStuner

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I used hand vac/pressure pumps and wasn't happy with the results. The mityvac compressor system is awesome and you can use it for a lot of stuff.


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littletoes

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I used hand vac/pressure pumps and wasn't happy with the results. The mityvac compressor system is awesome and you can use it for a lot of stuff.

Crazy expensive though!!

I have to watch the video of "reverse bleeding", thanks for sharing WWheeler.
 
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littletoes

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It's nothing more than a fancy syringe with a big handle.

Couldn't we do the same thing with the Motive, by pushing the fluid IN through the calipers/brake port??

Wouldn't need any fancy adapters..just push the hose on, put a hose-clamp on it if you think, and take the cap off of the master cylinder.

But!!! Nothing would work if we DID put in those fancy bleeding check-valves! ;)
 
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WWheeler

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Did a little search on youtube and this is exactly how I bleed / flush brakes by myself for pennies. I knew I wasn't the only one who didn't need any fancy gimmick vacuum pump speed check valve bleed screw contraption. All's it takes is a little aquarium air hose and a plastic bottle. I've been doing it this way for decades.

ericthecarguy

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