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Brake Drum puller

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killahog

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I am looking for a tool to use for removing rear brake drums, I have in the past just kept smacking them with a hammer but this just seems like a hillbilly way of doing it. Any recommendations for what tool to use and where to buy would be appreciated. Thanks
 
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JRC3

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Sometimes there are threaded holes to screw in a bolt in to press against the hub to back the drum off.

brake-drum-removal.jpg
 
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2ndGearRubber

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The only danger of using such a product, is pulling the hardware out of the backing plate. I too considered this product (I looked at OTC, IIRC), but my fear of damage was too high.

Most of the time the adjusters are frozen, or I have to back them down ALL the way, then have to adjust them again afterwards due to large rust lips.
 
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killahog

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JRC, I have noticed those holes but just assumed they were used for keeping the drums from falling off while moving along the assembly line.
 
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tvtaurus

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Have you adjusted the brake shoes back in? There is usually a rubber plug on the back of the backing plate that you remove to access the star wheel on the adjuster. Then you use a screwdriver to bring the shoes back in towards the wheel cylinders for easier removal.

You are looking for this sort of thing:
Adjuster-plug-installed.jpg

I have done drum brakes on everything from a 60s mustang to 2000's model cars. I have never once used any special tools.
 
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JRC3

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Yep. Can't forget to loosen the adjuster..

killahog said:
JRC, I have noticed those holes but just assumed they were used for keeping the drums from falling off while moving along the assembly line.
Click to expand...

Some cars were like that. Most, if they do have the holes, are like this.

 
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shockwave

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Heavily rusted hubs also grab a flat flat sledgehammer and hold in between lug studs and smack hammer a few times this avoids damaging studs

I usually put antiseize around hubs to avoid issues if you are around salt and rust this will save lots of time of agrevation

Also try and twist while pulling it will be easier to slide off

Be careful using bolts since easily cracks drum around hub of not loosing adjusters from back side some hang from heavily worn drums
 
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tvtaurus

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killahog said:
I have screwed them in, in the past but was asking if their was a quicker way of removing them.
Click to expand...

Step 2 then would be to use some Penetrating oil around the wheel studs and the center of the drum. You want to get the oil ultimately between the wheel hub and the drum. Often corrosion there.

Step 3:

Reinstall lug nuts a few threads only. Lug nuts are back on to prevent damaging the studs. Then use a air hammer with a flat hammer face bit to rattle it loose between the wheel studs. If no air hammer, just substitute a regular hammer. For this process think of the knife game, where you are trying not to cut off your fingers stabbing the table.

Step 4 (if required):

I use a couple of old screw drivers/ prybars between the drum and the backing plate and gently pry a little then rotate and repeat. Be careful if doing this.
 
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sberry

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I don't own a hub puller, I usually work at it till I get them off and had one stuck not to long ago where I stick the torch in the hole and burn the adjuster in half. In todays world its now the parking shate that is stuck. After I get them off we clean the ridge with a grinder and I fit them so all the adjustment can be done drum off, slide on test, slide off adjust and they come off next time.
Only problem I ever have is other peoples cars, ours have the tires rotated and drums come off at that time, I clean the ridge a little again, make sure its all working, fuss with the adjuster and slide them back on.
I do this about 2x or 3 per every oil change,,, ha
 
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sberry

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Wheels off most times anything gets on the lift. Got rolling benches, most of the time don't even got to lift them. Cleaning mud from wheels is a routine deal.
 

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JJThrasher

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This used to be a problem for us. These days will just tell the customer we have to split the drum due to corrosion. If the drum is hard a good hammer will crack it right in two, if its soft an air hammer will cut it in two quickly. In my experience the pullers just cause more damage.
 
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Ign

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JJThrasher said:
This used to be a problem for us. These days will just tell the customer we have to split the drum due to corrosion. If the drum is hard a good hammer will crack it right in two, if its soft an air hammer will cut it in two quickly. In my experience the pullers just cause more damage.
Click to expand...

Really? Can you get this to work on fullsize trucks? I whaled on Chrysler 9.25 drum with a 3 lb sledge with no results. Maybe something more pointed?

I know the castings are somewhat brittle but they also have a bit of spring to them, esp if the drum is heavily finned like the 9.25s. Plus this doesn't seem great for the wheel bearings, but maybe the axle shaft absorbs most of the force before it gets that far?
 
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theoldwizard1

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Bcom said:
If you have the brakes completely backed off the drum by entering through the back site hole and its still not coming off, i have used a huge gear puller to remove them before.

https://postimage.org/
Click to expand...

Most jaw style pullers will not open wide enough to grasp a brake drum.

Get some thin bar stock and make up some longer intermediate arms about 2-4 times as long. Then the arms should be far enough out to grasp the drum.

I don't know why US manufactures never put the screw hols in so that you can just insert 2 bolt and press the drum off.
 
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trackwelder

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I score the drum in two spots and hit it with a hammer. A piece breaks out and the drum is off. I'm not spending a lot of time getting some ************* drum off.
 
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WhiffySpark

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If they won't move with the adjuster loosened a few we tell customer and see what they want to do. Some have plugs on the outside diameter now where you can see lining.

In my experience they get stuck on the lip rather than the hub. I've grinded out quite a few pins before. Would rather do that then rip then through the backing plate
 
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PMD1966

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If the drum is rusted to the hub, and won't come off with the shoes fully retracted, drill a few small holes (1/8" or less) around the hub. Let's penetrating oil in to free things up.
 
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L.Cheapo

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Ign said:
Really? Can you get this to work on fullsize trucks? I whaled on Chrysler 9.25 drum with a 3 lb sledge with no results. Maybe something more pointed?

I know the castings are somewhat brittle but they also have a bit of spring to them, esp if the drum is heavily finned like the 9.25s. Plus this doesn't seem great for the wheel bearings, but maybe the axle shaft absorbs most of the force before it gets that far?
Click to expand...

I really, really, really hate the drums on my 20yo 9.25" axle. Actually, I hate every single thing about that axle and will never buy another vehicle that has one. Its the one thing I hate about this truck.

I've fought with those damn things more times than I'll admit to. This spring, when its time to clean, inspect, and adjust them once again, they are going to meet my new Snap On air hammer. I'm hoping that will tip the odds in my favor. The drums are genuine Mopar drums, so I'd prefer not to damage them.
 
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Engine

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trackwelder said:
I score the drum in two spots and hit it with a hammer. A piece breaks out and the drum is off. I'm not spending a lot of time getting some ************* drum off.
Click to expand...

I have a '99 Dodge ram with rear drums that don't even have ports on the backing plates to adjust the star wheels. There is the outline for the oval shaped place where it should be, but there is no opening. I have had the drums off several times and they haven't hung on the shoes yet, but I'm sure it will happen some day. That's the day I'll be using the above method.
 
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sberry

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Take the lip out before you put them back on, use a 4 1/2 grindr, can adjust them first. If they are stuck on the hub it's another matter. Heat them hot and fast between the studs till they snap loose and sand the hole out a little before the reinstallation.
 
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theoldwizard1

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I was working with a friend on his ****** (yeah, I'm that old) where the front ROTOR was seized to the hub. We had a puller but it would not open wide enough to grasp the rim.

We already had the new rotor, so I drilled some holes around the step and used a good hammer to break off the rim. Used puller to get the rest off. WOW, did it make a bang when the rust finally let go !
 
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LAROKE

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I have this that I believe I got from Eastwood years ago. It worked pretty well 'cept for the time I tried to pull a '49 Mercury drum (dirt was obscuring three small cap screws that bolted into the axle flange). One caution, screw a couple of lug nuts on loosely so that if the drum gives way with a bang, it will be restrained from hitting you. Don't ask me how I know this.

bb021701a.jpg
 
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R. Johnson

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You need to back the adjuster off otherwise the shoes may be stuck in a groove in the drum. After that, if the drum doesn't come off with a few hits with a 4lb hammer a puller is going to do nothing. You need an air hammer to rattle it loose.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
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rhandwor

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Bcom said:
If you have the brakes completely backed off the drum by entering through the back site hole and its still not coming off, i have used a huge gear puller to remove them before.

image upload with preview
Click to expand...
This is what I use but you will cause damage to some springs. So I only use after trying other tips previously listed.
 
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Cope

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LAROKE said:
I have this that I believe I got from Eastwood years ago. It worked pretty well 'cept for the time I tried to pull a '49 Mercury drum (dirt was obscuring three small cap screws that bolted into the axle flange). One caution, screw a couple of lug nuts on loosely so that if the drum gives way with a bang, it will be restrained from hitting you. Don't ask me how I know this.

bb021701a.jpg
Click to expand...

I have one similar to yours. IIRC, it is a KD, but I couldn't find anything on it in a Google search.
 
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