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Brake line flaring tools.. what do you use?

jerseykat1

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We do enough brake system overhauls at my shop to warrant me purchasing something fancy that will make the job easier and faster. Here are the 2 kits i am considering. Have any of you guys used any of these 2 kits. Currently i use the typical kit that everyone uses and i have not trouble using it. But it can be a PITA when you have to do all the brake lines on the car or truck.

I like this one because it Fast but i dont like that it requires a vise and bench.

I like this one because it can be done on the car, but it does appear to be a bit cumbersome.

i am leaning towards the eastwood kit. Whats your take on it?
 
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dogdog

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I have the mastercool set, ok with it, only because it is portable thinking I might needed to repair the line while it is at the car (without taking the whole rear lines out I mean).... that hydraulic pump is still pretty large...

But I tried and loved the Eastwood set.... at least with that set I can literally do perfect flares blind folded fast, takes out all the guessing. But it is not portable means, you have use it at the bench, clamp that thing down on a vise...... tried man handling it with a big wrench under the car on a jack stand was not working out.
 
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jerseykat1

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I have the mastercool set, ok with it, only because it is portable thinking I might needed to repair the line while it is at the car (without taking the whole rear lines out I mean).... that hydraulic pump is still pretty large...

But I tried and loved the Eastwood set.... at least with that set I can literally do perfect flares blind folded fast, takes out all the guessing. But it is not portable means, you have use it at the bench, clamp that thing down on a vise...... tried man handling it with a big wrench under the car on a jack stand was not working out.

Thats the only down side to the eastwood set :sad:. Most of the lines i do at work are the entire length. So i would have to get really good at measuring out my line before cutting and flaring.
 

Professur

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I've made the Eastwood work with a large adjustable holding the stake when away from the bench. It's something of a pain, but it's still faster and better than the bar clamp type. But put it on a bench and it's incredible. A 9 year old can crank out your flares. Personally, I rarely fix brakelines on the vehicle. If it failed in one spot, it's gonna fail in others. A quick patch to get home is the only reason I'd make a splice. But that's me, working on my cars (or very close friends). If on car repairs are your goal, the Cal-van would be a better choice. The Mastercool, naturally, is the best for on vehicle repairs ... but you're paying the price for the best. If time is money, it's the smarter option.
 
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jerseykat1

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I've made the Eastwood work with a large adjustable holding the stake when away from the bench. It's something of a pain, but it's still faster and better than the bar clamp type. But put it on a bench and it's incredible. A 9 year old can crank out your flares. Personally, I rarely fix brakelines on the vehicle. If it failed in one spot, it's gonna fail in others. A quick patch to get home is the only reason I'd make a splice. But that's me, working on my cars (or very close friends). If on car repairs are your goal, the Cal-van would be a better choice. The Mastercool, naturally, is the best for on vehicle repairs ... but you're paying the price for the best. If time is money, it's the smarter option.

i feel the same way about fixing line on the car. Change it from end to end or do another repair in a few months. Most of the time non of the line is good enough to splice.

I think i am going to go with the eastwood and get the cal van set to supplement. When i miss measure a line and have to shorten or extend it on the vehicle.
 

ijroorda

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I have the Cal-Van inline tool and it works well for me. I'm a DIY-er, so it only gets used a handful of times a year; if I was working in a shop, as it sounds like you do, it might be worth the upgrade to the Eastwood or Mastercool kit.

A roll of solder works great for measuring lines on the vehicle. You can unroll it as you go and bend it to match the existing lines, then straighten it out and measure for the new one.
 

theoldwizard1

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A roll of solder works great for measuring lines on the vehicle. You can unroll it as you go and bend it to match the existing lines, then straighten it out and measure for the new one.

Use copper-nickle (nickle-copper) brake line. You can bend it by hand without kinks.
 

LXCam

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I've go a couple of the cheaper ones, but my main squeeze is the mastercool kit. It's not exactly the most convenient, but it sure works like a rockstar.
 

Professur

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Use copper-nickle (nickle-copper) brake line. You can bend it by hand without kinks.

I can't think of any reason to ever use anything else. Costs more? I paid $80 for a 25' roll of 1/4" instead of $25 for a similar roll of coated steel and consider it a bargain. For material that works easier and never, ever rusts. The time savings alone in material handling pay for it. Line's 4" too long? Bend a quick U in it along a straight and keep going. No messing with reflaring or needing a bender to make a U.
 

BoostAddiction

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The Eastwood set is the best for jobs that can be done on the bench. I have it and it has made a lot of perfect flares for my project car.

On-car flaring is much harder- I try to avoid it whenever possible!
 

Hondarancher4435

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I can tell you which one not to get. I broke several of the harbor freight flaring tools. Now I too am on the search for a good one
 

jrobb316

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This is the best flaring tool, IMO sub-$100. I own 2, and when I use it, am able to make pro quality flares the first time. The thing everyone complains about is the 3/16 hole is smooth, so the line slips through. This won't happen to you if A) you line is uncoated, or B) take a little emery cloth and make the line bare where it fits into the bar. The coating, like the green stuff on the steel line, is too slippery. Not an issue, you have to prep the end anyways. Never tried Cu-Ni line, it is easy to bend though.
 
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jerseykat1

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This is the best flaring tool, IMO sub-$100. I own 2, and when I use it, am able to make pro quality flares the first time. The thing everyone complains about is the 3/16 hole is smooth, so the line slips through. This won't happen to you if A) you line is uncoated, or B) take a little emery cloth and make the line bare where it fits into the bar. The coating, like the green stuff on the steel line, is too slippery. Not an issue, you have to prep the end anyways. Never tried Cu-Ni line, it is easy to bend though.
Ni Co nickel copper line is the only one I use now. It is such a pleasure to work with and it does not rust through in a few years like I have seen with many steel line repairs. Just redid a Chevy Truck last week because the repair that someone did a while back had already rusted through.

BTW i can't see the flaring kit that your talking about. Can you post the link?

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 
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Davi

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Never seen that design. Very interesting.:beer:

Theres a vides on youtube (somewhere) showing it being done using a ratcheting spanner. Looked really effective and simple to do.

I plan on starting out with one of those designs and then eventually adding a sykes pickavant bench unit or the mastercool hydraulic unit.
 

404

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Not a ratchet spanner but is this the tool?


That guy is very smooth. :rocker:

Can you tell by how he talks what part of England he is from? I understand each small area has a distinct change? Maybe?:beer:

Next brake line I do I will be getting that copper nickel line. That was great to see. No swearing needed.
 
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jerseykat1

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Not a ratchet spanner but is this the tool?


That guy is very smooth. :rocker:

Can you tell by how he talks what part of England he is from? I understand each small area has a distinct change? Maybe?[emoji481]

Next brake line I do I will be getting that copper nickel line. That was great to see. No swearing needed.
That's actually pretty good. I think I'm going to go with the cal van set for on car stuff though.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 

eddiemeddiem

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Dec 19, 2011
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I'm just a DIY type guy... About a month ago I bought the Mastercool hydraulic tool, and sure wish I would have done it a few years ago. Perfect frustration free flares every time!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Davi

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Not a ratchet spanner but is this the tool?


That guy is very smooth. :rocker:

Can you tell by how he talks what part of England he is from? I understand each small area has a distinct change? Maybe?:beer:

Next brake line I do I will be getting that copper nickel line. That was great to see. No swearing needed.

Hes actually from ireland. The 50 euro price, confirmed it.

This is the video I was thinking about
 
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jerseykat1

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Central New Jersey
I have the Cal-Van inline tool and it works well for me. I'm a DIY-er, so it only gets used a handful of times a year; if I was working in a shop, as it sounds like you do, it might be worth the upgrade to the Eastwood or Mastercool kit.

A roll of solder works great for measuring lines on the vehicle. You can unroll it as you go and bend it to match the existing lines, then straighten it out and measure for the new one.
That's a great idea! I will be doing that the next time I do brake lines.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 
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jerseykat1

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Hes actually from ireland. The 50 euro price, confirmed it.

This is the video I was thinking about
Actually after watching the video again the powerhand flaring tool looks to be the easiest for in car flares over the cal van set..

I can't seem to find a complete set that does all sizes. I would basically only need 3/16" and 1/4".

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 

theoldwizard1

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I can't think of any reason to ever use anything else. Costs more? I paid $80 for a 25' roll of 1/4" instead of $25 for a similar roll of coated steel and consider it a bargain. For material that works easier and never, ever rusts. The time savings alone in material handling pay for it. Line's 4" too long? Bend a quick U in it along a straight and keep going. No messing with reflaring or needing a bender to make a U.
NAPA now carries "made up" (flared with ends) cut to length nickle-copper brake lines.
 

alien

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Nov 18, 2015
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Mastercool I needed to make some GM EFI fuel line flares for an LS conversion I was doing. It does them and many other flares perfectly.
 

Davi

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Actually after watching the video again the powerhand flaring tool looks to be the easiest for in car flares over the cal van set..

I can't seem to find a complete set that does all sizes. I would basically only need 3/16" and 1/4".

I don't know if other sizes are available. May be worth messaging one of they ebay sellers or youtube channels and asking if they have any more info. If you do find out anything more about them let me know and I'll do likewise.

Edited:
Page 155 of the catalogue mentions 4 different sizes
http://serenco.co.uk/upload/Serenco_UK_Catalogue_2014.pdf

This website also mentions other sizes available
http://www.directsupplyukltd.co.uk/powerhand-handheld-brake-flaring-tool-ph-bft-316/p651


Oops sorry. Think of me as a primitive colonial devoid of sense or reason and you will not be far wrong. :D

Lol, don't put yourself down after all you wern't geographically that far wrong.
 
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404

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I don't know if other sizes are available. May be worth messaging one of they ebay sellers or youtube channels and asking if they have any more info. If you do find out anything more about them let me know and I'll do likewise.

Edited:
Page 155 of the catalogue mentions 4 different sizes
http://serenco.co.uk/upload/Serenco_UK_Catalogue_2014.pdf

This website also mentions other sizes available
http://www.directsupplyukltd.co.uk/powerhand-handheld-brake-flaring-tool-ph-bft-316/p651




Lol, don't put yourself down after all you wern't geographically that far wrong.


Thanks :), That is quite a catalog you posted. I think I spent an hour reading it and am not half way through. :bowdown: A lot of tools there I have never seen the like of before.
 
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