Brass fitting is defeating me...

[Jason280]

I recently picked up a Chicago Pneumatic CP797 1" impact, and my first goal was to pick up some 1/2" quick connects to use on the tool. I had no idea 1/2" stuff was as expensive as it is, but I was able to luck into a set of fittings for cheap.

The impact has a brass reducer in place, and my first goal was to remove it and the male fitting to use my larger connector. Well, that didn't work out too well. I initially tried to remove the reducer and male fitting together, but went poorly from the start. My first issue was that whoever assembled the fittings, didn't use the correct tools as both fittings were pretty mangled. As such, I was unable to use a box head wrench. I tried a 12" pipe wrench, but all it did was start chewing up the brass.






I decided to stop there, as I didn't want to screw up things any worse. I was able to eventually remove the male fitting, though, and was left with this:




Question is, how should I proceed? I don't want to continue damaging the brass reducer, but need to get it removed. Worst case, I can always remove the inlet bushing from the tool itself, but a replacement is $20.

Now, worst case is I leave the mangled reducer in place, but that will drive me nuts. I have a fitting that will thread directly in place, but I am entirely OCD to keep looking at the damaged fitting.

Any suggestions?

Here are the fittings I have:





...and here is the CP797:

 

[speed bump]

I would adjust the pipe wrench so you get a better bite and roll with it. Brass is soft and a pipe wrench will destroy it but bushings are consumables. If you have to apply enough torque that it is getting dicey heat the brass fitting and let it cool then extract.

 

[Thumper68]

In my experience if you now put a pipe wrench on the brass fitting it will crush and deform as you work it and unscrew, of course this will destroy the fitting but you don't need it anyway.

 

[Weird Tolkienish Figure]

Bench vice?

 

[Finky198]

Remove the intake tube and trigger... place tube in vice apply heat pentrant and remove if you have a pipe plug extractor that would work better but...

Just take the 2 extra steps.... it will take less then 10 extra min...

 

[LXCam]

In my experience if you now put a pipe wrench on the brass fitting it will crush and deform as you work it and unscrew, of course this will destroy the fitting but you don't need it anyway.

Just crush it and be done with it.

 

[M6erfan]

Sure it's not a reverse thread?

 

[Tony G]

if all else fails get a helical extractor. Its the kind that bites in deeper as you turn it ccw.

 

[OccupantRJ]

Same rule applies to all mechanical repairs. MAKE it do what you want it to do. Period. The bushing can not be allowed to win. I have trained a couple of dozen industrial techs, and this is the thought process that has to be instilled for them to be successful. Put the fitting back into the bushing then remove them together with a properly adjusted pipe wrench.

 

[Weird Tolkienish Figure]

I'd just put the thing in a bench vice and turn the impact itself. You have leverage on your side that way, and bench vices are strong than nearly anything else, including pipe wrenches IMO. Only problem being that you might flatten the thing getting it out, damage the threads? I have no idea. I have gotten rusted pieces to my pool equipment out by doing that.

 

[notlob]

I'd just put the thing in a bench vice and turn the impact itself. You have leverage on your side that way, and bench vices are strong than nearly anything else, including pipe wrenches IMO. Only problem being that you might flatten the thing getting it out, damage the threads? I have no idea. I have gotten rusted pieces to my pool equipment out by doing that.

Ditto, but put the old fitting back in first to minimize crushing of the brass reducer.
I'm sure you have the requisite massive old american vise?

 

[MDK22]

If none of the stuff above works. Wire brush around the fitting. Heat slightly with a propane torch. AKA no more then 2 mins you just want to get it warm not hot. Spray penetrating oil around fitting. Take a shallow 12pt socket. Ignore the size markings. Find one that is roughly the same diameter. Hammer that mother on. Attempt to turn. If it does not turn. let sit for 20 mins then reheat again and try.

Do not heat it to above 350-400F if you keep it under that (hence propane) you will get enough expansion for penetrating oil to seep in. You hit it with a wire brush to get any dirt sealing the threads away. Yes I know it is pipe thread. Yes blah blah fin blah. I am a technician we do sh*t like this all the time.

Last ditch effort is go to Home Depot. Buy square stock steel same as slightly bigger then ID of fitting (you may need to grind it down you want about 1/16 - 1/8" bigger corner to corner diagonally then the ID of fitting) and a set of pipe removers aka these http://www.irwin.com/tools/screw-bo...d-multi-spline-screw-extractors-522532-series.

Try extractors first. If they do not work. Saw off like a 6-8" piece of square stock. Hammer her in. Use 8point socket, pipe wrench, or crescent wrench to turn the piece. You want it in at least 1/2 if not 3/4 the depth of the fitting so mark it first.

 

[BD1]

Hammer a cold chisel inside that is a little larger then the inside of the brass bushing. Then try using a wrench on the chisel to remove.
If that fails use small chisel or a cape chisel to collapse it and remove in pieces.

 

[geartow]

Put the fitting back in and use a pair of pwz3 snp on pliers it will come out .

 

[lazer50]

A pipe wrench will get it out! It will crush but still come out.

 

[Jason280]

A pipe wrench will get it out! It will crush but still come out.

That's what I initially tried, but all it did was start mangling the shoulders of the bushing worse...

 

[Empty Pockets]

Sure it's not a reverse thread?

^^^^ That would be my guess

 

[PCustoms]

When you put whatever back in, use a bit of teflon and next time you have to take it out it won't be seized to the base metal.

 

[MW.]

Put a solid pipe plug in. That way you can really clamp down on the outside. Grind two flats on it and put it in a vise.

 

[KnurledNut]

I would try this first:
Put the air fitting back in, get a good bite with a pipe wrench or vise grips and smack it hard with hammer.

 

[The Cobbler]

If the inlet bushing will come out easily, I would do that. Heat it up as someone may have used loctite. put a pipe plug into the brass bushing snugged , vice the inlet bushing and go to town on the brass.

 

[PT Doc]

Heat and long socket on a powerful impact should make it go.

 

[PoorOwner]

I would use a vise grip, squeeze it tighter than you think you need, put the tool on the floor and start pushing down. A vise and turning the tool is a good idea too.

The only problem is your tools keep slipping, I don't think the threads are met with enough loosening torque yet.

 

[MrGiggles]

I would definitely thread the old connector or a pipe plug in before clamping down on it.

If you squash the fitting it will deform inside and be even harder to remove.

Im sure vice grips will remove it without much trouble.

 

[Jason280]

I'm probably overthinking the whole thing, just trying to monkey things up where I damage the inlet bushing as well. I could easily thread in my 1/2" male connector and be done with it, but there is no way I can keep looking at that mangled brass reducer....maybe a strip of heat shrink around it would alleviate my OCD??

Either way, I'm stuck at work the next two days, so I won't be able to work on it until Monday.

 

[PugetDude]

I could easily thread in my 1/2" male connector and be done with it, but there is no way I can keep looking at that mangled brass reducer....maybe a strip of heat shrink around it would alleviate my OCD??

Smooth it out with a file...

 

[Jbullfrog]

I have a CP 796 that needs a new housing because somebody removed the bushing and stripped the threads in the inlet. I have a second and installed a 5/8" whip hose that was recommended by the CP Service center. It puts out 2000 ft/lb! I can snap 7/8" bolts with one hand.

 

[scissorman]

Use some heat to heat the fitting then use beeswax and let it soak in, once it has cooled the fitting will thread out practically effortlessly.

 

[T45]

Also agree on the Heat. If someone did something stupid like threadlock instead of thread sealant, for example, the heat will kill the threadlock. Also you want the inner piece smaller and the outher piece larger. Use heat/cold to your advantage here. Lots of good advice upthread on other aspects (confirm thread direction, destructive removal if needed).

 

[Hagatronics]

The OP had better round out this post with details on what worked. I hate these open ended posts where we don't get to see what actually worked in the end...

 

[59 wagon man]

here is what I do with broken 1/2" brass ******* all the time. take a fine tooth sawzall blade and cut it so it is about a 1/4" so it looks like a jigsaw blade .now with a sawzall gently cut the threads on the brass fitting. do thid in 2 spots about a 1/4" away from each other being careful not to cut completely through the threads of the brass bushing. now with a small chisel bust out the 1/4'' piece you cut and you can easily unscrew the bushing

 

[Brunel]

I agree that it looks like the inlet bush will come out - it has a hex on it - you could get a wrench or socket onto that. But please, Jason280, give us an update!

 

[ihateminimumwage]

Had one like that recently on a diesel fuel line fitting. A standard EZ Out will bite right into the inside and twist it out (if it isn't reverse threaded). If it won't twist out, drill it step by step until the brass is so thin it can be collapsed and picked out of the threads.

 

[Jason280]

Haven't had a chance to work on it yet, hope to later tonight after dinner....if not, it may not be until the morning.

 

[MacMcMacmac]

Just be happy it's not the brass drain **** on the bottom of a compressor tank.

That you were sent to work on.

At lunch.

So you wouldn't interrupt production.....

 

[OccupantRJ]

Just be happy it's not the brass drain **** on the bottom of a compressor tank.

That you were sent to work on.

At lunch.

So you wouldn't interrupt production.....

Sounds like my life. Never had a failure to get an item taken care of during the allotted downtime, but I have had some close ones with really big bucks involved that had me sweating.

 

[Jason280]

Update, of sorts...

Decided to go ahead and remove the inlet bushing, with a little help of this:



I threaded the male fitting back in place, and clamped it down in the vice. Heated the assembly up to over 500*, and attacked it with a pipe wrench. This was the result:







So, I am left with a couple options. I can hit it with more heat, cross my fingers, and use this:




...or, I can get a small blade and try and cut the threads out on either side. I don't like this option, but it may be my best bet.

 

[59 wagon man]

like I said trim down a sawzall blade and gently cut the threads a little at a time and try a pointy chisel works all the time on broken 1/2" brass shower arm *******

 

[MW.]

Got a stone or a burr that will fit inside? Cut 3 grooves down the inside till you just start to see threads. Then you can knock the pieces out.

 

[pstemari]

Yeah, looks like there's just a tiny band left in there. I'd Dremel out a notch in it and peel it out with a pair of pliers.


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