Have a brand new fuel tank that I decided to powder coat at home. That was a mistake! The solder/braze on the filler neck and vent tube ****** melted off! I know they can be brazed back on, but not having done a lot of brazing, is there a particular rod material I should use? Or just take it to a radiator shop and let them do it?
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Brazing Fuel Tank Fuel Neck
- Thread starter bfr57
- Start date
NASTYZEN
Well-known member
I would say it was rather soldered on rather than brazed. That's why it ran off in the oven. Should be an easy fix if you get it back down to bare metal where the parts touch. Regular propane torch and plumbing solder is what I would use. Make sure you check it for leaks..
If you feel uncomfortable with it, just take it to the guys that do it day in and out.
If you feel uncomfortable with it, just take it to the guys that do it day in and out.
Powder coating usually means a baking temp of around 400F.
If the 'metal' melted at that temp, that means it was "solder".
By AWS definition, soldering uses filler metals that melt at temperature below 840F and brazing uses filler metals that melt above a temperature of 840F but don't melt the parent metal(s).
You can resolder it, or braze it on.
You will have to clean it down to bare metal.
Which means that the powder coating will be removed and/or trashed.
If you really-really want the end item to be powder coated, then you probably need it to be brazed together.
To be brazed, you need it to be clean shiny metal and all of the solder has to be removed.
From Harris (makers of gas torch equipment and filler metals, a division of Lincoln Electric):
If the 'metal' melted at that temp, that means it was "solder".
By AWS definition, soldering uses filler metals that melt at temperature below 840F and brazing uses filler metals that melt above a temperature of 840F but don't melt the parent metal(s).
You can resolder it, or braze it on.
You will have to clean it down to bare metal.
Which means that the powder coating will be removed and/or trashed.
If you really-really want the end item to be powder coated, then you probably need it to be brazed together.
To be brazed, you need it to be clean shiny metal and all of the solder has to be removed.
From Harris (makers of gas torch equipment and filler metals, a division of Lincoln Electric):
We DO NOT recommend brazing
over joints previously soldered with
tin/lead solders. The low melting
elements in the solder may prevent
proper filler metal / base metal
alloying.
sweetk30
Well-known member
if a comon tank and priced good . scrap the one you have now and start fresh . then you learned a lesson much cheeper than others have .
also pressure test it before powder coat if you remove the soldier and braze it . to make sure no pin hole leaks .
also pressure test it before powder coat if you remove the soldier and braze it . to make sure no pin hole leaks .
sqznby
Well-known member
Personally, I'd tig weld it.
If the radiator shop will weld it, bring it to them but, make sure its cleaned thoroughly. All powder coat and soldier material need to be removed completely.
If the radiator shop will weld it, bring it to them but, make sure its cleaned thoroughly. All powder coat and soldier material need to be removed completely.