Breaker Bar buying option

[jack1971]

I think its been a good discussion and lots of information. Here are my preference,
1. Try to find an old CM (Made in USA).
2. Buy a 3/4 with adapter(3/4->1/2) from HF(seems it will take lot of torque). Though adding adapter will reduce clearance.
3. Duralast (The only reason I did not like it much for its head design that has lot of play).
4. Go with anything cheap.

Thanks everyone.

 

[mstewart]

I have the 25" HF and I bought a Tekton 40" 3/4" drive and the Sunex 3/4 x 1/2 adapter. Use the 25" and the HF digital torque adapter on wheels... no problems yet.


http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005G7QGD2/?tag=atomicindus08-20

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002V039NW/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[littletoes]

First off, I don't use cheaters....if I need more leverage, I get a bigger tool.

Bent my Snappy 1/2" X 24" breaker, and replaced it with a 36" to get more leverage. I have an old 18" Craftsman-that must be older than me. I use it till I need a bit more leverage, then I jump up to the 36", and if that can't do it, I'll jump to the 3/4" bar, or borrow my friend's 1" X 48" bar....I have adaptors for all of them to use smaller sockets.

I just feel, for my own personal integrity, that I can't expect a company to replace an item that I've abused....if said bars were advertised to put a 10' cheater on, then by all means, but if not, then the company is relying on the integrity of the purchaser, and from what I've read from EVERY post above, you all get a failing grade. Just my opinion...I am just a lowly servant of the Church.

 

[garthg]

If you're bending a SO breaker bar, you should be using a different method, like heat and/or impact.

THOMASXOVCDS on ebay uses a great induction bolt heater. I think it's a couple hundred bucks, but it looks safer than the flame wrench.

 

[zakmartin]

I got the 24" SK breaker bar and love the thing. It's beefy and really comfortable to use. One of my favorite handles in the toolbox.

http://www.amazon.com/SK-41654-24-Inch-Indexing-Handle/dp/B00062LNXK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394490399&sr=8-1&keywords=sk+breaker+bar+1%2F2%22

 

[bart1]

3/4-1/2 adaptors are probably weaker than the HF bar. I have a 24" HF that has been great. I sheared off the drive of a gedore adaptor. Ended up buying the 3/4 socket for that job.

 

[quattroJoe]

I've got an 18" long 1/2 Ampro bar that has been surprisingly robust. I've been using it for several years and it handles 95% of what I need. I never use a cheater on it, but I have at times put my full weight on it, standing or jumping, to break lug nuts. Never felt that it was unstable.

I've also got a fairly new Duralast 24" long 1/2 bar, not sure if China or Taiwan, but it's the one with the black rubber grip. Bought it for axle nuts, but I use it as an absolute last resort. It flexes so much that I always think I'm going to end up on my ***, or worse. Haven't abused this one in the slightest, just using it by hand and putting my weight into it.

 

[Chadwilliam1]

all of breaker bars are SK at home and at work they are snap on and neither one has let me down. I will say this all seducers fail Do not use them with a breaker bar. I have never used the hf breaker bar but can't see it being stronger than my SK and I agree with whoever said they don't like the head style.

 

[Finky198]

Sound like you guys just need to buy a small 3/4 socket set with a breaker bar, t-handle, you don't really need the ratchet....

Even if you only have a few socket it will pay for itself the few times you really need it. I bought the craftsman kit on sale with coupons when it was still usa then went on ebay and got used metric sockets and an old t-handle cost me about 200 or 300 bucks

 

[stratman977]

I'm sure I'll get flamed for this but the more recent USA craftsman breaker bars are junk. I seen 2 snap at the fork and one snap in the square drive.

 

[Wakefield]

I've also got a fairly new Duralast 24" long 1/2 bar, not sure if China or Taiwan, but it's the one with the black rubber grip. Bought it for axle nuts, but I use it as an absolute last resort. It flexes so much that I always think I'm going to end up on my ***, or worse. Haven't abused this one in the slightest, just using it by hand and putting my weight into it.

Does the flex happen at the head,if so maybe the bolt is not tightened snug?
Might be an axle bolt where the axle is supposed to provide enough distance for handle clearance within the head when the threaded section is completely into its threaded bore and tight
if you take it apart might put a baggy or something around the head when you pull it off of the handle so that a spring washer if present doesn't pop out and get lost!

 

[Larch]

The harbor freight 25" is a very good bang for the buck.

I have the HF 25" in every car and truck I own, with the socket for lugs. I have used them on some pretty tough stuff and have yet to break one. My two favorites are a old 18" OTC, and my Proto breaker bar speed wrench combo.

 

[Finky198]

I'm sure I'll get flamed for this but the more recent USA craftsman breaker bars are junk. I seen 2 snap at the fork and one snap in the square drive.

For most tire lug I think your pretty much fine unless they are really rusty or some idiot use his Impact gun to torque them to 500 ft lbs...

The craftsman bars are definitely not as good as they used to be...

but when push come to shove I think if it really that stuck its time for a 3/4 drive socket and t-handle with a cheater pipe. I have yet to break one...