Breaker Bar
- Thread starter GGorman04
- Start date
thedeatons
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2011
- Messages
- 372
Wright Tools.
There is a 3/4 Wright breaker bar in the Classifieds section right now. 1/2" is pretty easy to find too if you look around on the web.
Impact with an air compressor is the easiest route. Gets 'em every time with no sweat involved!
James
There is a 3/4 Wright breaker bar in the Classifieds section right now. 1/2" is pretty easy to find too if you look around on the web.
Impact with an air compressor is the easiest route. Gets 'em every time with no sweat involved!
James
94yj
Well-known member
i would go with snap on
cashishift
Well-known member
mayhew dominators?
Wakefield
Well-known member
Some here seem to favor going to the bigger drive size like 3/4" for the heavy stuff instead of the 1/2" drive.
billymade
Well-known member
Breaker Bar, 24" Stock#: SN24C
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=63429&group_ID=349
Try to find one used; I found one at the flea market for $30...
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=63429&group_ID=349
Try to find one used; I found one at the flea market for $30...
bart1
Well-known member
Wright also offers a 42" long 3/4" drive ratchet (hubba hubba) you might consider if you don't need the flex head.
http://store.harryepstein.com/cp/Ratchets/6425.html
http://store.harryepstein.com/cp/Ratchets/6425.html
Scuderia-F1
Well-known member
I would go with the 24" 1/2" Snap-on!
5lima30
Well-known member
I've got a SK/ Sparta 1/2" that is 30 yrs (+,-). I have used it hard and its still in great shape! That being said I'm sure the tool truck ones would be equally as good although they would be more $.
GoBlue
Well-known member
I would put the 25 inch Harbor Freight above any other 1/2 inch breaker bar on the market today.
powertrip
Well-known member
How about a price range. Do you want to spend $10 or over $100?
jasonreck71
Well-known member
I have a 24" Thorsen from Fleet Farm. I have put pipes on it and put all 220lbs of my beef on it and looks like the day I bought it. If you don't have a FF near you I would go with one from HF
GoBlue
Well-known member
Doesnt matter...i replaced my Snap on when it broke with the H.F bar based on all the recomendations from this site. I can be a bit of a snob and would not have looked at it otherwise. Great bar...i sold my snappy on the bay and have not regreted it once.
thooks
Well-known member
The HF 1/2" x 25" breaker bar is a beast.
I'm sure it can be broken, but whatever does was needing a 3/4" in the first place.
I'm sure it can be broken, but whatever does was needing a 3/4" in the first place.
Drisco Z71
Well-known member
That's actually exactly how I broke my 3/4" Thorsen breaker bar...
I got a MAC 3/4-drive round-head ratchet at a pawn shop years ago... I think it's 28 inches long? Maybe only 24... anything that doesn't come lose with a 1/2-inch breaker comes lose with with that beast. I have YET to admit defeat to anything I've clapped that bar on.
-Brad
-Brad
Zephyr
Well-known member
I bought a 1/2" 24 in HF breaker bar to break a crank pulley bolt off and I ended up shearing the drive bit off. I will admit I abused the HF bar by standing on it since I didn't have a cheater bar but it was ok till it snapped. Right now I have a 24" Performance Tool breaker bar #W32121 I abuse it from time to time with cheater bars and its built strong have yet to see something it can't break loose.
bsaint
Well-known member
I have a MAC breaker bar I like a lot. Its a different style head than most common.
Price range... Will pay more for something that lasts a LONG time!!
Personal experience that happened to me in the past week.
I had an employee buy a hydraulic jack from Pep Boys. A 3 ton model. Made in china.. I kid you not, the second time we used the lift on a 2006 ford econoline van, it would not lift the van off of the jack stands. Unbelievable lack of quality. After seeing this, now I am glad that I spent some extra coin but love my Milwaukee model 20.
Nothing is made to last anymore.. Nothing
Personal experience that happened to me in the past week.
I had an employee buy a hydraulic jack from Pep Boys. A 3 ton model. Made in china.. I kid you not, the second time we used the lift on a 2006 ford econoline van, it would not lift the van off of the jack stands. Unbelievable lack of quality. After seeing this, now I am glad that I spent some extra coin but love my Milwaukee model 20.
Nothing is made to last anymore.. Nothing
SCscoutguy
Well-known member
I have the HF breaker bar and I must say that is one of the greatest values in tools that can be purchased anywhere. I have abused the living daylights out of mine and it is still going strong.
HF and NT both have ~24" versions that have held up well in my use, and I don't think twice about using a $15 breaker for anything I can.
I have a Proto 3/4 I got as a freebie a couple of years ago. It's pretty good, but no way I would spend the bucks on one new.
A breaker bar isn't exactly like a jack, although I understand your looking for something that will hold up.
I've put a 4' cheater on the NT breaker and jumped on it like a ballerina. I was trying to break some rusted caliper bolts on a 82 Ford truck that were solidly frozen. The VIM hex socket bit, the NT breaker and a 4 ft cheater was all it took to finally break it loose after a couple of minutes of jumping on it.
No air was available, I didn't happen to have any PB Blaster on hand where this truck was and didn't have the time even if it was.
Socket bit, breaker and cheater pipe still in 100% condition.
Best $14 and change (on sale) I've ever spent on a tool I don't hesitate to beat on.
I have a Proto 3/4 I got as a freebie a couple of years ago. It's pretty good, but no way I would spend the bucks on one new.
A breaker bar isn't exactly like a jack, although I understand your looking for something that will hold up.
I've put a 4' cheater on the NT breaker and jumped on it like a ballerina. I was trying to break some rusted caliper bolts on a 82 Ford truck that were solidly frozen. The VIM hex socket bit, the NT breaker and a 4 ft cheater was all it took to finally break it loose after a couple of minutes of jumping on it.
No air was available, I didn't happen to have any PB Blaster on hand where this truck was and didn't have the time even if it was.
Socket bit, breaker and cheater pipe still in 100% condition.
Best $14 and change (on sale) I've ever spent on a tool I don't hesitate to beat on.
dodge610
Well-known member
I will also jump on the band wagon for the HF 1/2 breaker bar I have run mine thru the wringer and abused it also still keeps coming back for more. So if you want a breaker bar that is gonna get the job done and not break the bank HF is the way to go.
jvitez
Well-known member
Not sure about the quality, but I just saw this in their flyer: I've never heard of a 40" breaker bar, but now I want one!
http://www.princessauto.com/pal/pro...-in.-dr-x-40-in.-Jumbo-Mechanics'-Breaker-Bar
http://www.princessauto.com/pal/pro...-in.-dr-x-40-in.-Jumbo-Mechanics'-Breaker-Bar
MechManiac
Well-known member
I have a Wright bar (1/2" drive 16 9/16" long) that I've bobbed up and down on to loosen axle nuts. Those nuts are torqued to 175 ft-lbs and I weigh 160lbs. It has held up quite well in repeated use. One time I was removing stuck lug nuts and the craftsman socket I used broke. The breaker bar was still in great shape. IMHO a Wright tool breaker bar is one tough tool and I really don't see a need to go with 3/4" tooling with Wright for your purpose. (unless it's really really stuck)
I have this:
http://www.royalsupply.com/store/pc/Wright-Tool-4439-Flex-Handle-16-9-16-Contour-Grip-2783p51036.htm
BUT, will recommend their 24" version. PS. Apply PB blaster/kroil before.
I have this:
http://www.royalsupply.com/store/pc/Wright-Tool-4439-Flex-Handle-16-9-16-Contour-Grip-2783p51036.htm
BUT, will recommend their 24" version. PS. Apply PB blaster/kroil before.