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Breaker bars. Under utilized?

GRX

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There seems to be a recurring theme concerning newer "cheap" ratchets. The mechanism breaks easily. Over the years I am often amazed the people who have a huge set of ratchets, of various sizes & lengths, but have few breaker bars. Often only a long 1/2" bar.

I was taught old school. A breaker bar is for breaking fasteners loose. Then you use a ratchet. Maybe this is why all the ratchets I have passed down through 3 generations all still work very well.

So what do you think? Are breaker bars under utilized?

By the way, here are mine. Yes I have 1/4" bars too. ;)
 

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metaleltr

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If i were going to have to take the time to get a ratchet and a breaker bar for the everyday fastener removal I think I would end up skipping the ratchet all together. I always have laughed at 1/4" breaker bars saying if you need 1/4" breaker bar you need a 3/8" drive socket. Breaker bars have their place and I believe that place is on stubborn rusted bumper, brake caliper, suspension, and muffler clamp bolts just to name a few.
 

Jim85IROC

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I see no purpose for a 1/4" or 3/8" breaker. If it's too big of a job for my 1/4" ratchet, I'll use a 3/8" ratchet. If it's too big for that, I'll grab a 1/2" ratchet. If it's too tight for that, then I grab a breaker.

I've never broken a single ratchet.
 
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GRX

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If i were going to have to take the time to get a ratchet and a breaker bar for the everyday fastener removal I think I would end up skipping the ratchet all together. I always have laughed at 1/4" breaker bars saying if you need 1/4" breaker bar you need a 3/8" drive socket. Breaker bars have their place and I believe that place is on stubborn rusted bumper, brake caliper, suspension, and muffler clamp bolts just to name a few.
True about the 1/4". Rarely use them if at all in favor of 3/8" with adapter. Breaker bars are not just for stuck fasteners in my opinion. For instance, the main cap bolts on my Pontiac V-8's are torqued 120 lb/ft. I don't feel comfortable using a 1/2" ratchet breaking them loose. And an air impact is not an option. But that is another story.
 
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expfcwintergreen

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Oct 16, 2011
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GRX wrote:
"A breaker bar is for breaking fasteners loose. Then you use a ratchet."
==================
Agreed. If i have any trouble breaking a fastener loose, I use a breaker bar. If I have several to break loose at a time I also use a breaker bar. I don't put cheaters on ratchets and try to use the minimum size drive for the job. I ruined a 3/8 inch Craftsman ratchet that my Dad bought on the GI Bill when he got out of the US Navy after WWII. I wish I had it now, even though I have about ten other 3/8 ratchets.

I always try to use the right tool for the job.
-------------
I should mention that I don't make my living as a mechanic so time isn't a great a consideration for me.
 
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DTB

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With so many different varieties of ratchets these days,often way stouter than the older ratchets,it is no surprise,in my opinion, that there are fewer breaker bars.Also,as common as the air tools are,that further eliminated the breaker bar.I've only got one,a 24" breaker bar,but even it has been replaced by my Matco 24" locking flex for most applications..A 3/8" drive breaker bar might be halfway useful to have,but wouldn't see a 1/4" drive bar being used much.Maybe it's just my over confidence in the ratchets?
 

cotjocky

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Nov 21, 2011
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I use my 1/2 breaker bar a lot, but I'd say I'm guilty of over using my 3/8 ratchet. If They made a 15" 3/8 breaker bar, I might use it more often. Most times, right before I break a 3/8 ratchet, I know I'm about to do it and keep cranking down anyways. I've not found a 3/8 breaker bar I like and length is the issue. That and time consumption.

I think the major reason why the 1/2 breaker bar gets used more often is simply because most people have a shorter 1/2 ratchet and they grab the 24" breaker bar for the leverage. If most people bought a 12-18" 1/2 breaker bar, they'd just keep cranking down on their 12-17" 1/2 ratchet and not bother to grab a breaker bar. If you really look at most people, they don't grab a breaker bar to save a ratchet, they do it to get better leverage.

If Snap-On, Mac, Matco, etc would make a 15" 3/8 breaker bar, and people got use to buying it and using it for the leverage it would offer, they would save a ton of money because their dealers would be warrantying a lot less 3/8 ratchets. I think the sockets would hold up fine and the cost wouldn't be lost in socket warranties. Most ratchet's break around 90 ft/lbs and most people will jump to 1/2 if the torque is more than 120 ft/lbs. I think the quality brand 3/8 chrome sockets can hold up against 120 ft/lbs of torque regularly as long as it's manual torque and not that of an impact.

I know that's the area I fall into. I'm bad to have 2 3/8's ratchets near by when I do a job. My FL936 to break it loose and a stubby ratchet to get the bolt the rest of the way out. My FL936 would spend more time in the box if I had a good quality 15" 3/8 breaker bar.

I bought a approximately 18" 3/8 ratchet from Lowe's just because of it's length. I love that POS!
 
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uart

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I see no purpose for a 1/4" or 3/8" breaker. If it's too big of a job for my 1/4" ratchet, I'll use a 3/8" ratchet. If it's too big for that, I'll grab a 1/2" ratchet. If it's too tight for that, then I grab a breaker.

I've never broken a single ratchet.

Yeah I'm with you (and metaleltr) on this. I've only got 1/2" breaker bars, in fact it's only really my 1/2" set that's particularly strong quality. To tell the truth most of my 1/4 and 3/8 stuff is pretty mediocre and cheap, but I rarely break anything because I've got enough "feel" to know when that tool's had enough and it's time to move up a notch. I always start out with what I feel is right for the job, which works 95% of the time. But when I hit something that's a lot tougher than expected then I don't just persevere until I break something, I go get a more appropriate tool.
 

Gary S

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I see no purpose for a 1/4" or 3/8" breaker. If it's too big of a job for my 1/4" ratchet, I'll use a 3/8" ratchet. If it's too big for that, I'll grab a 1/2" ratchet. If it's too tight for that, then I grab a breaker.

I've never broken a single ratchet.


That's my experience too. I own only a 1/2" breaker bar. If something is too tight or rusted for the 1/4" or 3/8" ratchets, I don't use them. Either I use the 1/2" breaker, or just grab the air.impact wrench. Breaking tools is usually not necessary if you don't abuse them. I have never broken a ratchet or socket because I use them like they were intended to be used.
I bought my ratchets at Sears in 1971, and they all still work like new.
 

Larwyn

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Growing up on the farm we had sockets in 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 and 3/4 square drive as well as a couple of different sizes of hex drive socket sets. We did have a couple of ratchets in 3/8 drive but for the others there were only sliding T handles breaker bars and one speed handle (1/2 drive). So I learned to like breaker bars at an early age.

I'm surprised that the 1/4 inch breaker bars get so little respect in this thread. In situations where it is possible to make full revolutions with a wrench the ratchet saves no time and certainly no effort. The ability to flex the handle of a breaker bar makes it more likely that you can make those full revolutions than with non flex ratchet and the limited length of the 1/4 inch breaker bars helps in this situation too. I have 1/4 inch ratchets and use them but I use my 1/4" breaker bars in the many situations where, in my opinion, they are the best choice.

The 3/8 inch breaker bars serve in a similar manner but the additional bulk and length limit the situations where it holds any actual advantage (other than strength) over the ratchet, especially a flex head ratchet.


In my case I generally use the 1/2 inch breaker bars mostly for breaking loose very tight fasteners. It also comes in handy when there is too little clearance around a fastener to use a ratchet.

The 3/4" drive breaker bar is the only handle I have that fits my limited number of 3/4 inch drive sockets so it gets used any time they do. I do have an adapter so I can use my 1/2 inch drive ratchets on the 3/4 inch drive sockets once I have broken the fasteners loose with the breaker bar.
 

bobcatdan

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I have found breaker bars are no stronger then SO or Matco ratchets. I have grabbed my 1/2" matco bar and broke it on the first bolt. Then using a ratchet, it took that bolt and five more off. I use breaker bars more for holding when I'm loosening or tightening a nut/bolt combo. The extra lenght is nice compared to a combo wrench. The only breaker I use really for breaking stuff loose is my big 36" Matco 3/4", thats a braker bar!
 

jameswrx

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Dec 23, 2011
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Rarely use a breaker bar these days when something like a long snap on 1/2" flex head ratchet is available. I guess if you've only got small size ratchets you need one, but the flexiblity of a long flex head ratchet is superb.
 

cotjocky

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Nov 21, 2011
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If I can't get it with a single hand, the breaker bar comes out.

I rarely put more than one on the ratchet handle, but I don't hardly ever use a 6" 3/8 ratchet either. Usually a 12" 3/8 ratchet and have broken the gears in low and high quality ratchets one handed numerous times. Just me though.

I have found breaker bars are no stronger then SO or Matco ratchets. I have grabbed my 1/2" matco bar and broke it on the first bolt. Then using a ratchet, it took that bolt and five more off. I use breaker bars more for holding when I'm loosening or tightening a nut/bolt combo. The extra lenght is nice compared to a combo wrench. The only breaker I use really for breaking stuff loose is my big 36" Matco 3/4", thats a braker bar!

I have to disagree on that one. No way the gears in my Snap-On 1/2 ratchet would hold up to the torque I've put on my Snap-On breaker bar with a cheater pipe on it. Taking a rusty unheated "air cooled VW" rear axle nut off with a 1/2 ratchet and a cheater pipe and will bust the gears every time if the nut is really stuck. At least in my experience. I always use a impact socket because most chrome 36mm sockets won't hold up without cracking. In reality, I should be removing them with heat and or a 3/4 breaker bar and socket, but my Snap-On 1/2 breaker bar has held up to what I've thrown at it; the ratchet, not so much. I may very well break my Snap-On 1/2 breaker bar one day, but it far surpasses my Snap-On 1/2 ratchet on the amount of torque that can be applied before it gives up and breaks.
 

jim2664258

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The point isn't how strong they are, although I would dispute a ratchet being stronger than a breaker bar of the same manufacturer. The point is the cost of replacing the tool if it gets broken. The other issue is the deterioration of a ratchet's performance over time when such things are done - that either matters to you, or it doesn't.
 
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e30bradley

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I have like 5 sliding T 1/4 inch drive dreakers, two 3/8th and 3 1/2. One SK thats like 18in. an sk thats like 15in and a mitoloy thats around 12in. also 3/4 inch drive but they're only about 12in. long and I've only needed a 3/4 dr. socket once just because I didn't have a 32mm 1/2 dr.
 

Cryptic1911

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I use breaker bars all the time.. don't want to be stripping the pawls on a ratchet and smashing my hand into something. We have a few SK 1/2" bars, a 3/8" sliding t handle, and I recently bought a 3/4" Pittsburgh Pro bar because I had some mega stuck axle bolts, and the 1/2" were bowing on me. That 3/4" and a 2ft cheater pipe saved the day
 

Plombob

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I have breakers in all sizes up to 3/4". Never used the 1/4" or 3/8". The 1/2" is the most used, once in a blue moon I have to get out the 3/4".

Yesterday, as I was cleaning up another 3/8" Tee Handle, I was wondering if anyone uses these. The bar is just as long as a breaker until you get to 1/2", then they are too short (At least the ones I have.)

Larwyn and e30bradley - What's the advantage of the Tee over the Breaker?
 

Larwyn

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Larwyn and e30bradley - What's the advantage of the Tee over the Breaker?

None that I know of, other than the fact that they will fit inside a smaller ID cheater bar. I have seen about as many bent T-bars as I have straight ones. Cheater bars are tough on round stock.

In it's day the sliding handle was a real advantage over the old L shaped hex drive handles (looked like a large allen wrench).
 

woody 73

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I never did trust any ratchet so for all those midwest rusty bolts I use a breaker bar,but as one poster said today all those newer air tools can sidestep the breaker bar.
 

jameswrx

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I don't know why so many folks are afraid to use a breaker bar. Do you really trust the ratcheting mechanism under a lot of force?

I trust the snap on one, yes. The fact it's so long must mean it's designed to be a breaker ratchet, otherwise what's the point. The longer the handle, the more torque you'll be able to put on it. I'd like to think it will withstand the torque you're able to apply on a long handle, I think they'd have scrapped it if it broke under testing. I've used one on some stubborn lorry bolts and it felt good.

Obviously everything has it's limit and if it won't come undone with a lot of arm/body pressure then I'm not going to be jumping on it. In that case the breaker will indeed come out.

Even a breaker bar is only designed to cope with your hand on the handle and the torque you can muster when gripping it. If a breaker ratchet is a certain length (say 24") then it must have been designed to cope with the same thing. We all take it a step further with breakers though, ie tubes on the handle, standing on them etc. But if we need to be doing that, we really need to be using a size up anyway. If it's not coming undone with the pressure you can apply by hand then it's past it's design limit as far as the manufacturers are concerned.
 

Awfulcanawful

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Dec 30, 2011
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A large majority of people on here preach the greatness of snapon and the warranty but are scared to bust a tooth on their ratchet. My 18" SK breaker bar flexes and has busted my knuckles far more times than my 18" Cornwell flex head 1/2" ratchet that will not flex. Why use the breaker.
 

Outlawmws

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I use breaker bars all the time.. don't want to be stripping the pawls on a ratchet and smashing my hand into something. We have a few SK 1/2" bars, a 3/8" sliding t handle, and I recently bought a 3/4" Pittsburgh Pro bar because I had some mega stuck axle bolts, and the 1/2" were bowing on me. That 3/4" and a 2ft cheater pipe saved the day

I think this point is under appreciated. I can understand the "speed is everything" point of view for Pro mechanics, but all of us have busted knuckles enough to not want to do it again. I agree that impacts and the like have reduced the need/use of breakers.
 

trboxman

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Dec 21, 2011
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If fasteners don't turn with a reasonable amount of force I'll step up to a breaker bar. I only have 3/8" and 1/2" breakers. I've never broken a ratchet, a breaker or a socket.
 

kartracer55

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1/4 breaker bars are actually pretty handy when you need to make some sort of adjustment, and don't want to bother with continuously switching ratchet directions and a wrench wont fit. An application of setting some sort of backlash or pre-load comes to mind.
 

greasemonkey44

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memphis
i have all kinds of breaker bars; i rarely use a bar for anything
18" 1/2 ratchet cant do it; i step up to 3/4 drive
i did buy a 24" long 1/2 breaker today; for breaking free the stubborn stuff the impacts cant handle
normally if something is really stuck; i use an impact wrench, followed by heat and an impact or a 3/4 ratchet
honestly with ratchets as strong as they are and impacts getting stronger; i rarely need a breaker bar for anything
 

Turu

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Jun 1, 2011
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Spain
My 30" 1/2 dr. breaker bar makes loosening the harder bolts a breeze, and it does flex a bit, but I can't imagine my ratchets getting that kind of abuse for a long time.
 

DrkMtnDew

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Sep 24, 2010
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Pecking order...

1) Impact
2) Ratchet
3) Breaker Bar
4) Torch
5) Cheater Bar
6) Additional Cheaters
7) Hammer
8) Bigger Hammer
9) Air Hammer
10) Tow Strap (To haul the damn car to junk yard)
 

flintsghost

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Dec 6, 2011
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Colorado
In my two tool boxes I have 4 breaker bars. While there seems to be some prejudice against a 1/4" breaker, the fact is that mine came in a large 1/4" set that I bought used some years ago. I don't know why, because I haven't used anything in that set to turn a single fastener. However, I have dismantled some computers for recycling and I could see where someone could use one occasionally. I have used my 3/8" and both my 15" and 18" 1/2" driver versions a lot. In my traveling tool box, the 15" resides to use as a lug wrench because it is far superior to anything provided with my vehicles and works better than a T handle which I also carry in all of my vehicles. Since I have both 1/2" and 3/8" socket tools in my traveling kits I also carry adapters for them. With an 18" bar I rarely have found anything it won't turn. But I have a 3 foot length of galvinized pipe to use as a cheater for those few rare times. I have lots of ratchets, 12 at last count in all three normal sizes and my two different boxes. I use all of them depending upon the particular job. But for strong stuck fasteners, a breaker bar is the way to go.
 

Seanbev24

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Lynnwood, Wa
Breaker bars have their place, but between impact guns and my 25" Snap-On ratchet I hardly ever use them. Time is money, and breaker bars add more time. I buy quality tools that don't break easily, and if they do that's what the warranty is for, so I don't concern myself with it.
 
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GRX

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Impacts may have reduced the need for breaker bars, but not eliminated it. I run across plenty of situations where an impact simply won't fit. Like my friend's old Buick a few weeks ago. Using a breaker with cheater pipe prevented us having to remove the radiator because an impact wouldn't fit.

Most of my breaker bars are old Chrome/Vanadium units -stamped on the shaft. Proto, Allen, etc ... The long 24" one at the top of my image in the 1st post is my favorite. Has a hole through the handle so you can use a bar & use it as a T-handle. Plus it has a 1/2' square drive in the end so you can hook a ratchet & use it as a flexible extension.
 
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